Solved A couple of questions!

[Dom]

1. Fan
During my build, I accidentally pulled the fan wires from from the (molex?) connector. When making contact in the right way, the wires are still able to make the fan spin so I know it is definitely salvageable. May anyone suggest a way to fix this, or at least keep the wires in contact with the connector? I do not own any soldering equipment, all I really have is a precision screwdriver set
EDIT: Here's a pic:


2. For any DD-WRT/OpenWRT/router experts
Instead of buying a wireless PCI-E adapter, I think I may be able to use my D-Link DSL-G604T with the OpenWRT software. But my problem is that I have no clue how to use OpenWRT, and this page to me seems like a a whole other language to what I know. If anyone is familiar with the open source firmware, would you be so kind to give me simple instructions as to setup my wireless router as a wireless adapter (client bridge..)?

Thanks in advance to answers for either question

 

[Brink]

Hello Dom,

Q1) Are the pins still at the end of the wires? If so, then you may be able to push the pins back into the molex connector until they snap back into place. Just be sure to put them in the correct slots.

If not, then if you have some spare parts that use the same molex connector, you could cut off the cable on it, then splice the fan to the spare molex connector's cable, and use electrical tape to cover the splices.

Q2) Sorry, I have no idea on this.

Hope this helps some,
Shawn

 

[bobafetthotmail]

1) Buy one of these. Buy a cable connector block like this. Cut the cables in the molex connector according to this pinout so that the fan is getting one ground and one 12V line. Connect the cables with the cable connector block (turn the screw with your screwdrivers ). Test and see if the fan works. If not, reverse the cables in the cable connector block and it should work. Being able to solder it would remove the need for the cable connector block, but makes it harder to repurpose.
???? --> Profit.

2)Not recommended. After a quick glance, firmware for it is incomplete for both dd-wrt and open-wrt. More likely to "brick" the device ("brick" = "turn it in a paperweight" in geek speak) or make it malfunction than to do what you wanted to do.
If you don't want PCI-e ones, why not trying USB wifi adapters? If you sell the router on Ebay or as used hardware somewhere else you should get enough $$ to buy a good USB wifi adapter.
I use/sell them by the bucket-load and have little issues with them.

 

[Dom]

@Brink
No, as you can see in the picture the wires are frayed at the end, I have tried pushing the ends back into the molex connector but the wire just crumples :/
@bobafett
I was planning to use no money to fix the fan, due to the fact I went to within a couple of pounds to my build budget. I was going to buy two news fans anyway (bottom intake, top exhaust along with front intake and back exhaust), and I would use the broken fan if I ever fixed it as another top exhaust (to create "pressure" I think?).
Yeah, I went through the firmware on that page, and they managed to get ethernet/DSL working but wireless capabilities are still in progress. Since I will have enough money in the next couple of weeks, I will buy a PCI-E adapter anyway and keep the router in case any firmware does pop up for it.

 

[linnemeyerhere]

Dom,
With a molex tool you can remove the pins and then spread them open insert the wires, crimp and re-insert into molex. Unfortunately the molex tools likely cost as much as the fan. I would ask around or locate another molex and graft the wires as brink suggested. I wish you were closer as I must have 20-30 molex connectors like you'll need.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yes mate like linne says you can do it with the tool and even if you get a carpet sowing needle or very fine screwdriver it is not hard to push those tiny lugs in while pushing the connectors out of the plastic holder whether they are pins or sockets. You don't need a soldering iron either just gently heat the pin / socket with a cigarette lighter while the lead is inserted or wrapped around it and touch the thing with a bit of cored solder. The alternative is to prise open the opening insert the wire and re-crimp the joint.
Done this many many times myself

 

[Dom]

I will have another look at the fan + molex combo later today, shouldn't been too difficult to reinsert the wires

 

[Dom]

Well I'm happy to say, I think I managed to crimp the wires into the pins It was a Male-Female connector, so it has a 'door' on the top for easy access (only realised after pretty much destroying two pins by trying to force them out ) and managed to melt the plastic from the wires onto the pins to hold them on and then reinserting them to the housing. I will attempt to mount the fan in my case tonight, and find out whether I put the pins in at the correct polarity (hard to tell because the fans wires are both black :L).

 

[Brink]

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Well I'm happy to say, I think I managed to crimp the wires into the pins It was a Male-Female connector, so it has a 'door' on the top for easy access (only realised after pretty much destroying two pins by trying to force them out ) and managed to melt the plastic from the wires onto the pins to hold them on and then reinserting them to the housing. I will attempt to mount the fan in my case tonight, and find out whether I put the pins in at the correct polarity (hard to tell because the fans wires are both black :L).

Well done Dom I knew you would work it out and mate worst coming to the worst the Molex plugs / sockets are very cheap and so easy to fit when new

The polarity well the fan will either spin or not as long as it is not a direct pos to neg connection then it will get hot - test with a multimeter before you fire up. If you haven't got one there are cheap ones available and just ordinary continuity testers plus get a battery and a small light bulb and wire the bulb to the battery touch one end to the socket one to the plug if the bulb lights up then it is a dead short if you connect to the supply.

 

[Dom]

I'm going to test the fan in about half an hours time, I'm thinking I could either put the fan on my heatsink or I could use as another exhaust/intake.
I already have one fan in front as an intake, one fan in the back as an exhaust, and already one (loud) fan on my heatsink. Any ideas which position will be best?
I'm thinking I could put it on the heatsink so I could turn down the stock fan via BIOS so its quieter, and put the new/fixed fan so theres a push/pull config and keep it on full RPM as it is quiet enough at full RPM?

 

[linnemeyerhere]

I would try the P/P configuration first on the CPU and note before and after temps.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Dom I know it is more expense but what about trying a quieter fan on the cooler mate I was thinking this one Noctua.at - sound-optimised premium components "Designed in Austria"! the top dB on this one is just 19dB top whack and I am guessing unless you run the machine at full tilt that would reduce to the claimed 16.9 and 12.6dB's that's pretty quiet

 

[Dom]

I was actually asking Britton about those Noctua fans on his cooler (same as mine), but the colour scheme, ugh... make me feel sick...
I was looking at this fan because I like Akasa and that particular model uses the same design as their Venom line so more CFM (also because they're black, and also because of their amazing 16 dB max volume!).
I have mounted the fixed fan so there is now P/P, but because of inconsistent ambient temps here (ranging 22/28 degrees C) I cannot give reliable before/after temps. I do think that the maximum temps have been lowered by a couple of degrees though.
I am currently trying to push 4.2 GHz, but of course there is that damn overclocking wall. And I don't want to push voltages too high because of high ambient temps.
I'm going to mark this thread as solved now anyway. Thanks for the help guys!

 

[linnemeyerhere]

Good job and yes premium fans are worth it in the short and long term. Silence is golden and silence with performance is stellar !

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Sorry I know late reply but I have used hese in the pastand they are good and quiet

ARCTIC F Pro PWM · Case fans · Cooling · ARCTIC

 

[Dom]

Those are only £4.99 here compared to £10 for other brand fans, seems like a good deal!