Apparent hardware failure on HP s5-1114 desktop

[gregrocker]

Roommate's dad's HP Slimline HP s5-1114 desktop, originally tested by onboard diagnostics showing HD SMART imminent fail Error code 303.

PC will not now power up at all. Only sign of life is LED on Power Supply. Unplugged to release residual power and now will not even show LED on power supply.

Does this def point to power supply? Any way to test it without another? I'll take it to Geek Squad in the morning to plug into their universal to see. Would like to avoid that if possible.

Could a SMART imminent failure error by HP Diagnostics be a false positive somehow affected by failing supply? HD is detected in BIOS so not sure why it wouldn't boot unless boot sector was failing first.

Thanks.

 

[Britton30]

You can do a minor test of the SPU yourself Greg, it's not hard. http://www.sevenforums.com/vip/257690-psu-how-test-4.html#post2130086

This will only determine if the PSU will power up, not how it runs under load though. I don't think a bad power would cause a SMART warning though. Can you attach the drive to another PC to run a chkdsk /f /r on it?

 

[gregrocker]

Thanks Gary. WIll do those steps next.

Following these HP steps for Troubleshooting Power Supply Issues | HP® Support I am able to get the LED to light after resetting the 115/220 v switch. But it still won't start.

Edit: LED now won't light after replugging. Dead PSU for sure?

Continuiing with the HP steps, I unplugged power plugs from mobo, OD and HD. LED still will not light so it says this means it is bad and to replace it. Should I trust this?

Where would you look to get the fastest PSU replacement? Should I search online in case Best Buy or elsewhere doesn't have it?

 

[Britton30]

It's sure sounds like a bad PSU. The only way to know is to pull the main 20.24 pin connector and jump the green with a black wire. You're right, the fans should be running though. I hate to see someone go to Geek Squad.

 

[gregrocker]

I only go there to use their universal PSU to see if it powers up and starts, then see what they want for a PSU, then go home and order online. Here's what I'm finding:
Amazon.com: HP 633195-001 Power Supply - 220W: Electronics
Genuine Bestec FH ZD221MGR 220W HP 633195 001 PC Replacement Power Supply Unit | eBay

There is no power to the PSU since LED will not light. Would jumpering it cause it to start working?

 

[Britton30]

Sorry, I had a sleep period, lol.

I would get this one. Amazon.com: Genuine / Original HP 220W Power Supply Model Number FH-ZD221MGR Part Number 633195-001: Electronics Better service if needed, and eBay parts may not be as advertised.

The jumper would power it up if it's "good" but still doesn't test how it works under load. With the LED dark, I suspect the PSU is bad though.

Try the Geeks if it's a free test.

 

[gregrocker]

OK, Geek Squat PSU test confirms PSU dead. They plug into their PSU which gets fans and mobo LED but no signal to monitor, try to tell me mobo is bad. I ask them to change monitor and we get BIOS post and then nothing, same as original complaint. TO confirm previous HD SMART test imminent failure code given during HP onboard diagnostics they plugged HD into tester which shows it is read.

I want to now run Hitachi Drive Fitness test on HDD but have no other desktop here and no adapter cable. So will wait to see if owner wants to replace PSU and then later if necessary replace HD with small inexpensive SATA since owners only use 20gb of the 1tb one in there now.

Will suggest the Amazon PSU now.

Thanks!

 

[Britton30]

At least we know the PSU is dead but, if I understand, there is still no output to a monitor? If so an inexpensive add-in GPU might be used. I've done that in the past using the PCIe slot.

 

[gregrocker]

The monitor was only a temporary issue solved by Geek Squad agent trying another monitor. We then saw the same thing as existed before: BIOS posts, then nothing. However now there's also the dead PSU.

Before PSU died running HP onboard Diagnostics from boot says SMART failure Error code 303, but HD is detected in BIOS and now after testing by Geek Squad we know it can read.

However I ordered both a PSU and 160gb HD from Amazon to get Prime shipping and returnability for the HD if Hitachi Drive Fitness bootable test passes so I can wipe it and reinstall.

Any other theories about why HD wouldn't boot but yet it still reads? A friends suggests infection solved by wiping but I've not seen that. SMART tests can be wrong but then it still doesn't boot. Guess I'll have to wait til PSU arrives to test it since I only have laptops here at Florida home now.

 

[Britton30]

I'm not sure about the HDD, but I have read that the SMART tests isn't always conclusive. The makers' tests are better I think, or even chkdsk. Crystal Disk Info may be more help too.

It could have a damaged sector 0, I think that's where the boot sector resides, and the drive can be read but not capable of booting.

 

[gregrocker]

So the Power Supply may have made it cross country via 2 day Priority mail by Saturday. If so I will have a job before me I've never done: replacing a PSU in a very tight Slimline case. It is not the same model shown in the web video which requires removing the CPU (thank God!) and has a clear path in an out. Bbut I could use some tips and warnings about safe replacement and tying the cables in such a tight environment. I don't want to mess up my roommate's Dad's 2 year old PC.

 

[Britton30]

Don't take any of this as being too simplistic. It may look daunting and a bunch of spaghetti, but it's not so hard.

Standing on some hard surface floor is better but barefoot on carpet will work.

Pull the power cable out of the old PSU, touch the metal case to disperse static, and start removing each connector one by one, any sequence is fine. There may be ties or something on some of them. You may have to disconnect other cables to make it easier, like SATA or IDE connectors. Use a marker if you want so you get them back to the same place.

The connectors all will have a latch to press in to release it, then wiggle and pull at the same time. Some like the main 20/24 pin will have more resistance. Hold the case, or if there's room, the board down against the direction of pull.

When all the cables are disconnected, gather them together with a rubber band or tie, to keep them out of the way, then remove the 4 screws that hold the PSU. I usually lay the case on it's side while doing this. IT may have a metal tab to push to release it and it will slide out, forward.

Compare the connector on the old and new PSU, the new one could have some extras on it, tie them loosely together for now. Each connector will fit in only one place on the motherboard, they made them "idiot proof", so to speak. I start with the one farthest away form the PSU and work my way to the closest, but any sequence you can do is fine.

There probably isn't very many PSU connectors to stick on:
20/24 pin main
4, 6, or 8-pin to the CPU
one to each HDD and optical drive
floppy if so equipped
GPU, if there is a dedicated card, which I doubt

Double check that everything is reconnected. Check it all once more. Now you can put the cable in the PSU, flip its switch if it has one, plug into the wall and see if it powers up and boots OK. If so shut down unplug it and you can go about tying cables back and together. Try not to get a real sharp bend in any of them.

Being careful and not dislodging some other connectors is important, especially in a mini-case.

 

[gregrocker]

Thanks, Gary. PO says the PSU and HD are out for delivery today so it may happen today.

After PSU starts and HD doesn't, I want to run Hitachi Drive Fitness test to confirm its condition. I also have Spinrite - do you think it's worth a spin or should I just replace the HD anyway if it tests bad, once I get the data off?

Any hunches about why it will not proceed past post? Boot sector infection or corruption is suggested. Is it strange that failing HD (per SMART) would be readable?

 

[Britton30]

All I know about Spinrite is what Steve Gibson says, but it's worth a try?

I'd go ahead and save the data and replace the drive anyway since it is suspicious, if it can in fact be read. You can use a Linux CD to test that part.

You can have a corrupt boot sector or infection. The only other thing I can think of is a motherboard issue since the Geeks PSU wouldn't boot it either.

Just for curiosity you might remove and replace each PSU connector to see if anything changes. If something is not fully seated, there may be no electrical connection. Steve told me once he had a no display problem. He found the PCIe power connector need to be pushed in 1/64th".

 

[Slartybart]

You're already on a path, stick with it

Google search results found:
https://www.google.com/search?q=HP+...ie7&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-Address&ie=&oe=

EC 303 indicates a failing drive, EC 305 is a dead drive.

DavidPK [HP expert] suggested that you might be able to recover data with a Ubantu boot and pointed to:
Use Ubuntu Live CD to Backup Files from Your Dead Windows Computer

That's all I can add, except good luck with the PC of your friend's dad,

Bill

Roommate's dad's HP Slimline HP s5-1114 desktop, originally tested by onboard diagnostics showing HD SMART imminent fail Error code 303.

PC will not now power up at all. Only sign of life is LED on Power Supply. Unplugged to release residual power and now will not even show LED on power supply. .....

 

[Britton30]

Thanks Bill, we plan to, I had already suggested a Linux CD, if needed.

Greg, is this the video you found?



If so, that is the CPU cooler he removed, which I don't think was necessary. HE didn't even replace the thermal compound, definite no-no.

 

[Slartybart]

Here's the service manual: http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c03317456.pdf

from here: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/manualCategory?cc=us&lc=en&product=5157057

 

[Britton30]

Good manual Bill. Greg, have a look at page 22 for the PSU replacement.

 

[gregrocker]

Yeah I spotted that Manual the other day and then it didn't show up again. It's about as detailed as one can get. Thanks, Bill.

I'm concerned about it being mobo and would actually like to check that while I can still refuse those $85 worth of packages since looks like they are being fumbled around by the PO. I assumed that if BIOS can post and HD SMART tests bad then it is HD but what exactly could be proof that its really the mobo? The Geek Squad had said I could check it in to have it all tested but I thought I had enough once they plugged in their PSU and it was back to posting and then failing to hand it over to the HD. What about that behavior says it might be the mobo?

Does anyone else ever have this happen: Priority packages are tracked Out For Delivery from USPS, but carrier doesn't have them even after searching truck for me. Supervisor says he thought he saw one being returned for bad address. Call into station and that's the HD, but no sign of PSU. Manager on duty says it may have gone out with wrong carrier and will check as they come back for possible Sat pick up at PO by 5. Frustrating.

Last week the same PO lost some RAM which Amazon replaced. It even had been scanned "Delivered." Probably put in wrong box.

 

[TVeblen]

Use Gary's suggestion and run a Live CD (Ubuntu is good). If the system boots Ubuntu and you get video, etc then that is a pretty good indicator the motherboard is OK. You can also test network, sound, and even that hard drive too.

Also would be good to know what happens if you disconnect the hard drive. You should get the "OS not found" or "no bootable device" message, but if it boots fine and you can use BIOS then it also indicates the MB is OK.