BSOD During Gaming(Mostly Online) nvlddmkm.sys,dxgkrnl.sys,dxgmms1.sys

[AxusNagal]

Hello,
Im in need of someone to interpret these bluescreens i have been getting that have annoyed me to no end.
These will occur randomly at any point during gaming sessions (and online). I have attached all the bluescreens I've had to date. I believe that the cause might have something to do with my nvidia optimus not cooperating with my 355.60 nvidia driver, although im not 100% sure.

I have tried:
Running furmark for an hour which didnt throw any errors, with temperatures topping at around 86C.
Updating my directx graphics to no avail.
System Restore.
Full graphics card driver wipe with DDU.
sfc /scannow, as well as on startup, both times saying it was unable to fix some files.

I have not tried:
Memtest, although i hope one of you can diagnose my problem without me doing so (still prepared to if worst comes to worst).
Full system wipe with fresh Windows installation. This is something i have been putting off until W10 becomes a more stable release (again will do so if it fixes the issue).
Flashing my bios (I dont think this is necessary.)


Other users with similar issues and computers as me have been pointed towards using their manufacturer's custom graphics drivers, although my laptop is quite old so MSI have stopped keeping my model's drivers up to date, and as such I feel that sticking with the current Nvidia drivers is the way to go for the best support.

As in the title, bluescreenview points towards nvlddmkm.sys,dxgkrnl.sys,dxgmms1.sys, but that is as far as I got in self diagnosing, so any help would be greatly appreciated .


System Specs:
MSI GT60 0NC Laptop
Intel Core i7-3610QM Processor
8GB DDR3 1600Mhz Ram
750GB HDD (Partitioned into two seperate drives, not that it matters here)
Nvidia Gefore GTX 670M (3GB DDR5 VRAM)
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hello and welcome Lachie now there are a lot of them and it does need clearing up.
Did you try this

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/433-disk-check.html< if necessary include the /f and /r in the command line as per Option2

if no go then these

http://www.superantispyware.com/

https://www.malwarebytes.org/lp/sem/5/?gclid=CJTmq6iGpscCFYqCvQodbfMN1A(free version and untick the trial option when it comes up

http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/download/adwcleaner/

ADW download from bleeping computerdelete any rubbish found with the malware scans

(Anyone running Kasperskyinternet security will find it rants about ADW - ignore it or disable Kasperskywhile running ADW)
The dumps are full of that Directx issues and the ntoskrnl.exe and they can be down to a multitude of causes and it is that we have to find.

You mentioned memtest and personally I would do that after running this I would like to see the state of the power supply both the adaptor and what HW Info finds in the battery readout.

Using HW Info

PART A:

You can test the volts onthe PSU with HW Info HWiNFO,HWiNFO32/64 - Download <download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensorsand scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts aredoing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton)with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages.There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE

Now the voltage on thedifferent rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machinewill not work properly if at all.

See this for the railvoltage info

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061.html (Section 2.)

The original right handwindow shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at thecomponents in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel

FOR OTHER COMPONENTS

PART B:

Open each small squarewith + in it on the section the components are in and then click on theindividual component/s (it willhighlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of detailsincluding brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. Seepic for example.
for the purpose this is best for memtest not the Windows feature

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/105647-ram-test-memtest86.html just make sure the passes are in excess of 8. Overnight is a good time to run this and both of these findings are the simplest things to start with. To test the power adaptor you just need a digital multimeter.

 

[AxusNagal]

I thought that doing memtest would be a recommendation so I have currently been running that for the past 18 hours and it has gone through 6 passes. I shall update you on the results tomorrow, as well as the other tests after. Thanks for the help.

Edit1: Back to update on the results:
Memtest86 came back with zero errors after running almost 9 complete passes.
I have attached a log of CHKDSK, not sure about the results but i saw there were no "bad files".
SuperAntispyware found ~450 cookies which have been cleaned.
MalwareBytes Antimalware found 5 entries, all sent to quarrantine.
AdwCleaner found some folders, 2 files, 1 scheduled task, a bunch of registry keys, and 2 files to do with chrome. All cleaned.

Not sure what you are asking from me in terms of using HWinfo to test voltages. I cant seem to find this "Nuvoton" section with VBATT in your picture that you talk about. Could you explain a bit more?

Feel free to ask for more thorough information if i have not given enough.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Not sure what you are asking from me in terms of using HWinfo to test voltages. I cant seem to find this "Nuvoton" section with VBATT in your picture that you talk about. Could you explain a bit more?

Now if you see my write up it will say that Nuvoton is the title for this specific rail voltage section for Asus boards and ITE is usually the one for Gigabyte boards.
Now as I don't know what your board is I cannot say what it will be all I can say is to pull up the Sensor read out and scroll down that listing until you get to a section that is separate from the rest and had a title on it. What makes that section stand out is the reference to Vbatt or VBATT an alongside that will be the voltage for the CMOS/BIOS battery typically 3v.

I know this may sound long and protracted but if you want send snips of that readout all the way down and I will be able to see for myself what you have in there. http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/9733-screenshots-files-upload-post-seven-forums.html I always use the snipping tool > save to Pictures > then add what I lie with Paint . save and then attach the pic to my posts. Sounds complicated but once you get used to it - it is very easy .

 

[AxusNagal]

I shall post all the readings im getting:Am I supposed to be looking at the figures in the orange or green box? Hopefully you can find what you want in that .
View attachment 371309
View attachment 371310

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Is that all that is showing up on the Sensor readouts? ie all the way down the listings? it should scroll down to the section marked with a title as in this pic - sorry I thought I had posted this one

It should look almost the same as my pic only with a different title.

 

[AxusNagal]

Yes, everything is in those pictures. What you have doesnt show on mine im afraid...

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Now I know this is a pain but can you uninstall HW and then reinstall it as I think maybe it somehow got corrupted or did not download correctly the first time.
This has happened on other odd occasions and a reinstall has fixed that. The alternative is to check the 24 pin plug to the motherboard with a digital multimeter and I always say a digital meter because the olden analogue ones typical "inject" 9v into a system to get the results of whatever you are testing for and that is not a good idea.

Testing you only need to use one black pin and use the red lead to go to the rails as indicated. Remember the volts have got to be within +/- 5% of the required volts anything else will cause failure .

See this for the volts at what pins https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer) I have attached pic too. The meters are really cheap now probably around $10.

One last thing make sure you are downloading the right bit I version of HW and from the US site see pic

 

[AxusNagal]

Okay so uninstalling and reinstalling HW changed nothing; even tried the 32 bit version (my OS is 64 bit) to no avail.

I guess if I have to, I shall pull apart my laptop, but I will probably need guidance as I really dont want to throw $1700 worth (at the time i bought the thing) away if I screw up. I will take the cover off, give the fans a good clean, and show you with pictures the insides so you can show me where the 24 pin is.

Any updates for now will be done via mobile so sorry about formatting.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Sorry mate I am an idiot of course and took my eye off the ball


Sorry no it is right the voltages you can see in that past snip you did itis the battery listing and I was looking for a desktop readout when all along it is a laptop The volts look perfectly ok to me in any case

Well you can clean it but don't rush into it and this is something I do to clean at least the air outlet and the cooling "rad"

CLEANING A LAPTOP FAN & COOLER RAD

The thing you do is to turnover the laptop and shine a very bright light into the air intake aperture (youwill see the fan there) and then while doing that look at the outlet vent onthe end of the laptop you should see the light quite clearly shining through thecooling " radiator" if not - it is clogged and will need cleaning aswill probably the fan opening.

You can do this by blowingit out using a compressed air can in short bursts.

BUT ONE WORD OF WARNING DO NOT blow the air into the fan opening withoutinserting say a plastic rod or large cable tie to stop the fan from spinning asthe air blast will spin the fan at a very high speed that it is not designed totake and may wreck the bearing!!

To clean the slots in the radiator use a pipecleaner or one of those craft covered wire sticks - they are referred to aschinelle sticks - see pic. But do be very careful not to be overly heavy handedyou will find it might take a second or two or a few minutes to clear theheavier build ups.
Again sorry for the muck up

 

[AxusNagal]

That's great that you found the right readings .
When I clean the fan normally I take the fan right out of the case as it is quite finicky and I can't clean the blades properly. Is there no longer a need for me to use the multimeter now? If so what would be your next test for these bluescreens for diagnosis? I've attached a pic of the insides incase you still need the 24 pin readings, so you can show me where to go.
View attachment 371322

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No mate you will not need the meter that HW readout is what I was looking for the other stuff relates to desktop readouts. Just cannot believe I got so slack

Actually you are very lucky to have a machine that is so accessible my Toshibas and other brand stuff I have done for others usually mean complete take apart

Now back on the BSOD well am going to have another look and think about it and will be offline for a while shortly so don't think I have hung up.