Solved Calibrate Battery Laptop

[R3QuI3M]

Hi, I want to calibrate my battery laptop. When I check critical battery action, I cannot find 'Do Nothing' (only three options: Sleep, Shut down, Hibernate). In order to calibrate, I need the battery to fully drained (I mean till 0%, because I cannot change Critical battery Level (5%), after my battery is 5% left, my laptop will hibernate). What must I do to drain my battery laptop fully?

For your information, my laptop is Acer. If it can helps.

Thanks,

 

[Bill2]

You can try setting critical battery action to nothing for the active power plan using powercfg.

How to set the Critical battery action to 'Do Nothing' in Windows Vista

For the non-current power plan slightly more complicated.

How To Lower the Critical Battery Level to 1% in Windows 7 - How-To Geek

 

[R3QuI3M]

Great, it worked. Thank you so much, . Now, I can calibrate my battery laptop.

 

[MvdB]

Be careful with going too low: How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University
It can kill your battery. The thresholds are there for a reason...

 

[essenbe]

Some laptops have the calibrate option in bios.

 

[R3QuI3M]

Be careful with going too low: How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University
It can kill your battery. The thresholds are there for a reason...

Well, thanks for the information. I don't know that too many cycle of charging will decrease the battery's performance. I'll be more careful when I want to calibrate my battery's laptop.

By the way, do you think it is necessary to calibrate the battery to keep the performance? (Hope this is not out of topic.)

Some laptops have the calibrate option in bios.

Which one is it? I don't know, tell me please.

 

[essenbe]

I have a Samsung RF711 that has a 'calibrate battery' option in bios. I do it around once a month as i usually have mine plugged in and rarely use the battery. I have an option in the OS (a Samsung utility) that is supposed to be battery saver. It will only charge the battery up to 80%.

 

[Bill2]

The battery fuel guage can go out of sync with the held-charge because of short charges and discharges. So the battery meter may show inaccurate info. Calibration resyncs them. But yes, calibration is only something to be done once in a while.

 

[essenbe]

Bill2, we hardly ever use the battery we always plug it in. So, when I calibrate it should i take it down to 0 or just take it down to say 10% ?

 

[Bill2]

Bill2, we hardly ever use the battery we always plug it in. So, when I calibrate it should i take it down to 0 or just take it down to say 10% ?

For calibration, I would drain it all the way down, after that restore the usual settings (hibernate at 5%).

 

[R3QuI3M]

I have a Samsung RF711 that has a 'calibrate battery' option in bios. I do it around once a month as i usually have mine plugged in and rarely use the battery. I have an option in the OS (a Samsung utility) that is supposed to be battery saver. It will only charge the battery up to 80%.

Well, my laptop is Acer. I'll ask the reseller later.

The battery fuel gauge can go out of sync with the held-charge because of short charges and discharges. So the battery meter may show inaccurate info. Calibration resyncs them. But yes, calibration is only something to be done once in a while.

Okay, so I don't need to calibrate until my battery is out of sync. Thank you very much.

 

[chris89]

I think it's just so dumb how I see 100 times don't drain it all the way or it'll hurt it.

That's the dumbest thing ever the battery incurs wear when not discharged to 0wh every time. Windows among the laptops bios prevents it from going to 0wh and only allows the 30,000wh battery to go down to 1,000wh or 5,000wh. Over time by not going to zero the very first thing is the battery life gets worse, and worse, and worse, and worse. Until it has incurred a whopping 35% wear which means the battery can only charge to 19,500wh.

The only real way to get that stupid son of a beast down to 0wh is cold. Everyone knows the cold will "kill" a battery. The word "kill" here does not mean dead-as-a-door-nail never to be charged again. It means bring that darn thing down to 0WH!

Wrap in paper towl and zip lock it in a bag and throw it in the freezer for 8 hours. Then pull out un-zip and unwrap and set out for 8 Hours again. Then we will know it's at 0WH with it's specified POTENTIAL of 30,000WH.

Charge without stop to 30,000WH at that point from 0WH to 30,000WH. Unplug immediately after it has reached 30,000WH and discharge and if you can't 0 it out again sadly enough it will incur yet again wear over time. This is a problem with the engineers thinking we know how people operate their laptop batteries. They get to 5,000wh and plug back in to charge up and never let it 0 out which is damaging the battery every flippin time.

For instance I'm on a 30,000WH Li-Poly "DELL SAID" supposedly yet it says clearly Li-Ion on the battery so they lied and threw the crappier battery in instead.

My laptop incurred a whopping 35% wear and through "EXERCISING" I managed to get it to 21% wear from discharge without using a freezer. If I could use a freezer I would in a heart beat!

You have to modify your power profile in windows for critical state to 0% and run your laptop until it dies.

To know you incurring damage is after it dies, does it turn back on right away? Does it die 1 second after boot? Or will it run... Try your built-in post diagnostics test and let it run until it dies again and set the LCD to full brightness.

Once it died that second time, try pressing power again --- Does it turn back on again? Then die a second later? Try pressing the power button over and over and over again until it WILL-NOT-TURN-ON-AGAIN.

My Battery is EXTREMELY Stubborn and straight up will not die after pressing the power over 100 times! It always turns back on for a second and turns off. So there's trickle charge still held within the Cell's which is direct result of a damaged battery.

This damage can only be reverse if you can engineer a charger that operates on Alternating Current in Reverse Polarity. Which will actually draw the energy out of the battery... This is dangerous but it's easier than throwing it in the Freezer every 6 months... Nikola Tesla tested reverse polarity on alternating current and found it's not Dangerous to you in that moment, it's dangerous on the other end at the generator. However a measly 1 to 3 amps of reverse polarity over direct current may not even phase the external generator in one bit.

Anyway if you try the freezer be 110% sure to leave it in for 8 hours and do not even think about using it within 7.99 hours of pulling it out. It must sit out in ambient for the exact equal amount of time it spent in the Freezer. If you don't abide by this to the T you may permanently damage your battery and laptop so simply "WAIT".

Good luck

 

[logicearth]

Chris89. You have it backwards. It is not the cold that will kill a Lithium battery, it is heat. The cold will actually slow down the self-discharge. The Lithium in most of them is a liquid when you put it in the freezer you are turning the liquid into a solid thus it won't work until it unfreezes. It doesn't actually kill the battery.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium-ion_battery#Extreme_temperatures

Li‑ion batteries offer good charging performance at cooler temperatures and may even allow 'fast-charging' within a temperature range of 5 to 45 °C (41 to 113 °F).[59][better source needed] Charging should be performed within this temperature range. At temperatures from 0 to 5 °C charging is possible, but the charge current should be reduced. During a low-temperature charge the slight temperature rise above ambient due to the internal cell resistance is beneficial. High temperatures during charging may lead to battery degradation and charging at temperatures above 45 °C will degrade battery performance, whereas at lower temperatures the internal resistance of the battery may increase, resulting in slower charging and thus longer charging times.[59][better source needed]

Consumer-grade lithium-ion batteries should not be charged at temperatures below 0 °C (32 °F). Although a battery pack may appear to be charging normally, electroplating of metallic lithium can occur at the negative electrode during a subfreezing charge, and may not be removable even by repeated cycling. Most devices equipped with Li-ion batteries do not allow charging outside of 0–45 °C for safety reasons, except for mobile phones that may allow some degree of charging when they detect an emergency call in progress.

Second you made a reference to Li-poly versus Li-ion. You are incorrect in thinking that Li-poly is cheaper or less effective compared to Li-ion when is most cases they are one in the same. A true Li-poly battery are not yet in the commercial space. When you see a Li-poly battery currently it is a Li-ion in a pouch or flexible format yet the contents is the same as any Li-ion battery. So your Dell Battery is a Li-ion in a Li-poly format. Which is a liquid thus will freeze in a freezer.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_polymer_battery#Lithium_cells_with_true_polymer_electrolyte

Although the name "lithium polymer" (LiPo) is mostly applied to lithium-ion cells in pouch format, which still contain a liquid electrolyte, there are electrochemical cells with actual polymer electrolytes, which however have not reached full commercialization and are still a topic of research.