Solved Changed PSU,when connected 24pin,no power

[Solarstarshines]

The Motherboard in question should atleast admit a beep of some sort when it has power
if there was no beep there is something wrong the connections are secure the next step he can try it in another rig

and see if he can get it started if not i would think the PSU doesn't have enough power and he needs to replace it with something that can

OK,if you would just read my previous posts instead of only reading the very last post,you would understand the predicament,and not suggest something that has been tried and testet.

Please understand, there is NOTHING wrong with the psu,the psu works on 2 other computers,it works when tested with multimeter. The psu in question does however NOT work with the gigabyte mainboard,which is why i am confused,as it should work fine unless mainboard is fried.

I can get psu fans and everything to spin if i short pin9 and a groundwire,but as soon as 4pin 12v atx and 24pin power is connected to mainboard nothing happens,not a single beep or anything

If you do not know if the mainboard is fried, I cannot understand why won't you test another PSU on the motherboard, NOT the PSU, test the motherboard with another PSU. I don't get why that is so hard to understand.

Anyway I still stand by what I told you before your MB might be underpowered by that Unit just because it came on with others doesn't mean it still is underpowering the one you are using

I have had this happen to me when i couldn't get my unit on with a 450 psu and running a 1 gb 5670 even though i met the requirments it was still under powered

I went and bought a 600w coolermaster and it came on like christmas none of us were trying to give you redundent answers but just because it says 500 watt doesn't mean it will put it out

 

[kbrady1979]

I have found that some power supplies just don't work with some motherboards. Good PSU.....good motherboard........but they just won't work together. It happens, and I wouldn't try to make it work, just put another psu on that motherboard and make sure you make a mental note about them not working together.

Really? That sounds kinda strange. This psu provides ALL the designed power to the correct connectors,so that makes no sense it shouldnt work, that is like saying it is the will of god,which i refuse to believe .. Anything has an explanation, you just have to look hard enough.

And by your logic,there is no guarentee a new psu would work anyhow,which is what standards are for,to make sure stuff fit together

I have personally seen a new PSU NOT work in a PC that was working previously, and that same PSU swapped out and installed in another computer and work flawlessly. In fact, the PSU I am referring to did not work in a PC that my friend was working on, and we tried it in mine and it worked, so I bought it. Worked in my PC for about 4 years, until I sold it, and it is still working just fine.

PC parts such as RAM, graphics cards, PSU's all have the chance of not working in one motherboard, but working just fine in another one. That is one of the first things I learned about PC hardware.......they can be temperamental. I'm not saying there isn't a combination of something slightly wrong with the PSU AND the motherboard, like a pin not being seated just right, etc.....but I'm saying sometimes crap just don't work with other crap. God has nothing to do with it, it's just part of mass producing components and human error.....and a little bad luck lol.

I really hope you track down the issue because that can be rewarding, I know..........but I would either replace that PSU or use it in one of the systems that you know it works in.

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

OK,if you would just read my previous posts instead of only reading the very last post,you would understand the predicament,and not suggest something that has been tried and testet.

Please understand, there is NOTHING wrong with the psu,the psu works on 2 other computers,it works when tested with multimeter. The psu in question does however NOT work with the gigabyte mainboard,which is why i am confused,as it should work fine unless mainboard is fried.

I can get psu fans and everything to spin if i short pin9 and a groundwire,but as soon as 4pin 12v atx and 24pin power is connected to mainboard nothing happens,not a single beep or anything

If you do not know if the mainboard is fried, I cannot understand why won't you test another PSU on the motherboard, NOT the PSU, test the motherboard with another PSU. I don't get why that is so hard to understand.

Anyway I still stand by what I told you before your MB might be underpowered by that Unit just because it came on with others doesn't mean it still is underpowering the one you are using

I have had this happen to me when i couldn't get my unit on with a 450 psu and running a 1 gb 5670 even though i met the requirments it was still under powered

I went and bought a 600w coolermaster and it came on like christmas none of us were trying to give you redundent answers but just becaus eit says 500 watt doesn't mean it will put it out

Well, the antec 500w i had on the mb before worked fine,and this 500w northq psu worked fine on the asus board,a switcharoo later,and the northq wont power the board,a different 500w psu powered moments before? Also,if it dont give full output,that should only pertain to loads,if it delivers the volts and amps needed for the mainboard to start (12v on the atx 12v,5v on the 5v wires and so on), there should be lights and stuff. Also, why can i get it to boot and light up fine if i short pin 9 and a ground pin?

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

I have found that some power supplies just don't work with some motherboards. Good PSU.....good motherboard........but they just won't work together. It happens, and I wouldn't try to make it work, just put another psu on that motherboard and make sure you make a mental note about them not working together.

Really? That sounds kinda strange. This psu provides ALL the designed power to the correct connectors,so that makes no sense it shouldnt work, that is like saying it is the will of god,which i refuse to believe .. Anything has an explanation, you just have to look hard enough.

And by your logic,there is no guarentee a new psu would work anyhow,which is what standards are for,to make sure stuff fit together

I have personally seen a new PSU NOT work in a PC that was working previously, and that same PSU swapped out and installed in another computer and work flawlessly. In fact, the PSU I am referring to did not work in a PC that my friend was working on, and we tried it in mine and it worked, so I bought it. Worked in my PC for about 4 years, until I sold it, and it is still working just fine.

PC parts such as RAM, graphics cards, PSU's all have the chance of not working in one motherboard, but working just fine in another one. That is one of the first things I learned about PC hardware.......they can be temperamental. I'm not saying there isn't a combination of something slightly wrong with the PSU AND the motherboard, like a pin not being seated just right, etc.....but I'm saying sometimes crap just don't work with other crap. God has nothing to do with it, it's just part of mass producing components and human error.....and a little bad luck lol.

I really hope you track down the issue because that can be rewarding, I know..........but I would either replace that PSU or use it in one of the systems that you know it works in.

Hehe,well i know crap dont always work well together, but in this case where all the parameters are met, it makes absolutly no sense why it shouldnt just fire up.

Oh,and the reason i exchanged it was because i needed the antec psu elsewhere,as it had 2x4pin ATX 12v,which i needed for yet another mainboard , yes i know, alot of different hardware to keep track of. So i cant really put this sucker into any other system,as i would then be short 1x4pin 12v atx somewhere else :-D

But i guess all my switcharoos to save a few bucks will end up costing me a new psu, or a new mainboard if the switcharoo dont work,which is a whole other story :-D

 

[kbrady1979]

Really? That sounds kinda strange. This psu provides ALL the designed power to the correct connectors,so that makes no sense it shouldnt work, that is like saying it is the will of god,which i refuse to believe .. Anything has an explanation, you just have to look hard enough.

And by your logic,there is no guarentee a new psu would work anyhow,which is what standards are for,to make sure stuff fit together

I have personally seen a new PSU NOT work in a PC that was working previously, and that same PSU swapped out and installed in another computer and work flawlessly. In fact, the PSU I am referring to did not work in a PC that my friend was working on, and we tried it in mine and it worked, so I bought it. Worked in my PC for about 4 years, until I sold it, and it is still working just fine.

PC parts such as RAM, graphics cards, PSU's all have the chance of not working in one motherboard, but working just fine in another one. That is one of the first things I learned about PC hardware.......they can be temperamental. I'm not saying there isn't a combination of something slightly wrong with the PSU AND the motherboard, like a pin not being seated just right, etc.....but I'm saying sometimes crap just don't work with other crap. God has nothing to do with it, it's just part of mass producing components and human error.....and a little bad luck lol.

I really hope you track down the issue because that can be rewarding, I know..........but I would either replace that PSU or use it in one of the systems that you know it works in.

Hehe,well i know crap dont always work well together, but in this case where all the parameters are met, it makes absolutly no sense why it shouldnt just fire up

That's what makes it so frustrating huh? It didn't make any sense why the PSU didn't work in one system, but worked fine when installed in mine. We just agreed that it was odd and went on about our business. He ordered another power supply(not the same kind) and it worked perfectly in the system he was upgrading.

I'm not sure if you have tried this, and I apologize if you have, but if you unplug the power supply from the wall and everything, can you physically see if the pins inside the connector are free of debris and are seated in roughly the same place? Also, was the 4 pin connector a pain in the ass to plug in? I have seen some 4 or 8 pin aux power connectors not match up with the connector on the board. Some of the "D" shaped individual connectors were in the wrong place........I don't know if you could even plug that in, but I've seen some pretty poorly made connectors before where the molding process was messed up and it made it through Quality Control and all the way to the customer. Just thinking out loud.

Kelly

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

I have personally seen a new PSU NOT work in a PC that was working previously, and that same PSU swapped out and installed in another computer and work flawlessly. In fact, the PSU I am referring to did not work in a PC that my friend was working on, and we tried it in mine and it worked, so I bought it. Worked in my PC for about 4 years, until I sold it, and it is still working just fine.

PC parts such as RAM, graphics cards, PSU's all have the chance of not working in one motherboard, but working just fine in another one. That is one of the first things I learned about PC hardware.......they can be temperamental. I'm not saying there isn't a combination of something slightly wrong with the PSU AND the motherboard, like a pin not being seated just right, etc.....but I'm saying sometimes crap just don't work with other crap. God has nothing to do with it, it's just part of mass producing components and human error.....and a little bad luck lol.

I really hope you track down the issue because that can be rewarding, I know..........but I would either replace that PSU or use it in one of the systems that you know it works in.

Hehe,well i know crap dont always work well together, but in this case where all the parameters are met, it makes absolutly no sense why it shouldnt just fire up

That's what makes it so frustrating huh? It didn't make any sense why the PSU didn't work in one system, but worked fine when installed in mine. We just agreed that it was odd and went on about our business. He ordered another power supply(not the same kind) and it worked perfectly in the system he was upgrading.

I'm not sure if you have tried this, and I apologize if you have, but if you unplug the power supply from the wall and everything, can you physically see if the pins inside the connector are free of debris and are seated in roughly the same place? Also, was the 4 pin connector a pain in the ass to plug in? I have seen some 4 or 8 pin aux power connectors not match up with the connector on the board. Some of the "D" shaped individual connectors were in the wrong place........I don't know if you could even plug that in, but I've seen some pretty poorly made connectors before where the molding process was messed up and it made it through Quality Control and all the way to the customer. Just thinking out loud.

Kelly

Nah,all connectors line up perfectly, they slide right in,and click,except the 24pin,that one is a bit tight,but arent they always? All connectors are also clean and everything,so i am gonna chug this one up to the hardware gods,and just order a corsair Tx650 v2 instead.

Cant be bothered with this anymore, i had hoped though i could save the money,as i hate exchanging stuff that works fine. Gonna save the northq as a backup though minus the gigabyte support :-D

 

[kbrady1979]

I know it sucks to be stumped by something that should, by all rights, just work. It happens to everybody that works on stuff and is a learning process. You seemed to do everything you could to root out the issue, but like you said, there is a time when you back away and realize you can't be bothered with it anymore. Hope the new PSU gets you all fixed up, and remember which board that PSU won't work in!

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

I know it sucks to be stumped by something that should, by all rights, just work. It happens to everybody that works on stuff and is a learning process. You seemed to do everything you could to root out the issue, but like you said, there is a time when you back away and realize you can't be bothered with it anymore. Hope the new PSU gets you all fixed up, and remember which board that PSU won't work in!

Hehe,trust me,i wont forget,spent like 4 hours on this crap,and i guarentee you it will keep me awake tonight.. I am very "anal" about stuff like this,and i hate giving up.

I am still wondering why it worked if i shorted out the connectors while the connector was attached to the mainboard,it makes no sense

 

[Dwarf]

OK. I'm assuming that you've still got this unit connected. Fire your system up as before (by shorting the connectors as described previously). Now try turning your system off using the power button (you might need to hold this in for 4 seconds, depending on the BIOS setting, or it might be instant off). Does your system power down?

If everything works as it should do, but it won't start up with the power button, then with the computer powered off (but the mains still plugged in and turned on so that the PSU is still receiving power), use a digital multimeter to backprobe the +5VSB (Purple wire) to see if there is any voltage there, and if so what its value is. Don't forget to insert the other probe into one of the COM (Black wire) terminals. If you wish, you can carry out this test with the PSU removed, as this terminal should provide an output of 5V so long as the PSU itself is receiving mains power. What voltage reading (if any) do you see?

This line provides power to the motherboard at all times when the PSU is receiving mains power, and its function is to supply various logic circuits on the board that enable the system to power up under certain conditions (should the trigger source be enabled). This includes Wake On Lan. The power switch is also connected to logic circuitry powered by this line (which determines what action (depending on whether the system is powered up or not) and what delay should be applied (if powering down)), and will therefore only be operative if the circuitry itself is receiving power. It should be noted from this that the power switch does not directly bridge the terminals in the power connector.

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

OK. I'm assuming that you've still got this unit connected. Fire your system up as before (by shorting the connectors as described previously). Now try turning your system off using the power button (you might need to hold this in for 4 seconds, depending on the BIOS setting, or it might be instant off). Does your system power down?

If everything works as it should do, but it won't start up with the power button, then with the computer powered off (but the mains still plugged in and turned on so that the PSU is still receiving power), use a digital multimeter to backprobe the +5VSB (Purple wire) to see if there is any voltage there, and if so what its value is. Don't forget to insert the other probe into one of the COM (Black wire) terminals. If you wish, you can carry out this test with the PSU removed, as this terminal should provide an output of 5V so long as the PSU itself is receiving mains power. What voltage reading (if any) do you see?

This line provides power to the motherboard at all times when the PSU is receiving mains power, and its function is to supply various logic circuits on the board that enable the system to power up under certain conditions (should the trigger source be enabled). This includes Wake On Lan. The power switch is also connected to logic circuitry powered by this line (which determines what action (depending on whether the system is powered up or not) and what delay should be applied (if powering down)), and will therefore only be operative if the circuitry itself is receiving power. It should be noted from this that the power switch does not directly bridge the terminals in the power connector.

Hey Dwarf
OK, the pc could NOT be turned off if bridging the green and a black wire with all header wires connected right,pressing the power switch i could hear something happened,fans spun a little slower,but i cound not get it to power off. Also,there is no signal from the gfx card,is this normal? I mean,if i bridge the green/black to get power to the mainboard,should it boot normally? or enter bios?
Using a multimeter the purple/black gives 4.56v but when it is connected to the mainboard,i can only measure 2,25v on the same wires

 

[Dwarf]

You DON'T bridge the purple and black wires! The purple wire is the +5VSB (StandBy) line, and all I wanted to know was if there was actually any power present on this line and what its value is.

I note that unconnected there is 4.56V present, but connected only 2.25V. For the latter reading, is the system powered on or off?

Disconnect all peripherals, especially those that are USB, and also disconnect any that plug into motherboard headers (including FireWire, if present). What voltage do you get on that line now? If you monitor it as you disconnect things, you might even find the culprit (it could be something as simple as the mouse). Something somewhere is causing that voltage to drop to a level where it cannot power the logic circuitry that controls the function of the power button.

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

You DON'T bridge the purple and black wires! The purple wire is the +5VSB (StandBy) line, and all I wanted to know was if there was actually any power present on this line and what its value is.

I note that unconnected there is 4.56V present, but connected only 2.25V. For the latter reading, is the system powered on or off?

Disconnect all peripherals, especially those that are USB, and also disconnect any that plug into motherboard headers (including FireWire, if present). What voltage do you get on that line now? If you monitor it as you disconnect things, you might even find the culprit (it could be something as simple as the mouse). Something somewhere is causing that voltage to drop to a level where it cannot power the logic circuitry that controls the function of the power button.

I know,i wrote the wrong color,it was ofcourse the green wire. for the 2.25v the system is off,but 24 pin connected as is 4pin 12v,and power button on psu is on.

Oh,and i cant get it to start even with nothing connected,not even ram. I had tried this before though,removing everything,and only adding one thing at a time,it dont work.

Is it not normal for the voltage to drop to 2,25v when connected to mb? Also,if this happens,i suspect either the psu is just too old for ths newer board,or the psu is not as high quality as it was sold as once upon a time,and thus cannot keep the voltage to boot levels

 

[Dwarf]

I don't believe that is normal. What readings are you getting on that line in your other machine?

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

I don't believe that is normal. What readings are you getting on that line in your other machine?

The corsair gs700 deliver 5.11v simply connected to the mainboard. It must be the psu, as i could power the mb easy enough connecting it to the corsair,and bridging the mb power switch header. Is it simply enough it has to power a core i5 and not the amd phenom II x2 it powered before,to force it to behave like this?

I am gonna chuck this northq psu out,and i already ordered a new Corsair TX650 V2,so now i just hope i havent damaged any components on my mainboard with all this testing,removing and re attaching going on.

Thank you all for your help

 

[Dwarf]

It shouldn't make any difference, as the sole purpose of the +5VSB is to power the logic circuitry that controls the function of the power button (together with WOL and other standby functions).

If you swap the PSUs back over (you said that the problematic unit worked in its original system), what voltages are you getting on that line then?

It is quite possible that it is the PSU, and that the +5VSB circuitry within it (transformer, regulator, etc.) is beginning to fail and isn't able to maintain the correct voltage output when under load.

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

It shouldn't make any difference, as the sole purpose of the +5VSB is to power the logic circuitry that controls the function of the power button (together with WOL and other standby functions).

If you swap the PSUs back over (you said that the problematic unit worked in its original system), what voltages are you getting on that line then?

It is quite possible that it is the PSU, and that the +5VSB circuitry within it (transformer, regulator, etc.) is beginning to fail and isn't able to maintain the correct voltage output when under load.

You know the saying "if it aint broke,dont fix it"? I am not gonna put this "faulty" psu back on its original board,as i have spent too much time getting the other systems to run perfectly.

If this psu cant keep the voltage to its designated power on a board that runs fine on a different psu,then by that logic,the psu is bad.

And since i already ordered a new one, i am not gonna spend any more time on it..

Thank you though for all your help, even though it might not be satisfactory i just throw the damn thing out .. Must be a reason no one sells north q psu´s anymore

Found this on wiki

Cheaper and/or lower quality power supplies do not follow the ATX specification of a separate monitoring circuit; they instead wire the power good output to one of the 5 V lines. This means the processor will never reset given bad power unless the 5 V line drops low enough to turn off the trigger, which could be too low for proper operation.

 

[Dwarf]

That sounds reasonable enough to me. Hopefully your new PSU will perform as expected. If you want a decent unit, see if you can get hold of the model listed in My System Specs. The actual unit itself is manufactured by Seasonic, who are one of the leading PSU manufacturers, and whose units are typically rebadged and sold by the likes of PC Power and Cooling (as recommended by Scott Mueller of Upgrading and Repairing PCs fame) as well as others (including mine, XFX).

 

[Tsunamijhoe]

That sounds reasonable enough to me. Hopefully your new PSU will perform as expected. If you want a decent unit, see if you can get hold of the model listed in My System Specs. The actual unit itself is manufactured by Seasonic, who are one of the leading PSU manufacturers, and whose units are typically rebadged and sold by the likes of PC Power and Cooling (as recommended by Scott Mueller of Upgrading and Repairing PCs fame) as well as others (including mine, XFX).

850w is a bit much though,and the same model but in 650w cost the same as the corsair i ordered. I already have a corsair,and it is working great,which is why i ordered another corsair,plus it has 5 year warranty.

And i am sure the new psu will power this system nicely,unless i fooked up something and fried the rams or cpu or something,but if that has happened,i would still need a new psu,so either way,it is all good

 

[Dwarf]

You should be OK with that unit.

 

[Solarstarshines]

It shouldn't make any difference, as the sole purpose of the +5VSB is to power the logic circuitry that controls the function of the power button (together with WOL and other standby functions).

If you swap the PSUs back over (you said that the problematic unit worked in its original system), what voltages are you getting on that line then?

It is quite possible that it is the PSU, and that the +5VSB circuitry within it (transformer, regulator, etc.) is beginning to fail and isn't able to maintain the correct voltage output when under load.

You know the saying "if it aint broke,dont fix it"? I am not gonna put this "faulty" psu back on its original board,as i have spent too much time getting the other systems to run perfectly.

If this psu cant keep the voltage to its designated power on a board that runs fine on a different psu,then by that logic,the psu is bad.

And since i already ordered a new one, i am not gonna spend any more time on it..

Thank you though for all your help, even though it might not be satisfactory i just throw the damn thing out .. Must be a reason no one sells north q psu´s anymore

Found this on wiki

Cheaper and/or lower quality power supplies do not follow the ATX specification of a separate monitoring circuit; they instead wire the power good output to one of the 5 V lines. This means the processor will never reset given bad power unless the 5 V line drops low enough to turn off the trigger, which could be too low for proper operation.

TsunamiJhoe Glad you got it sorted out I figured that was the problem as well cause this has happen to me before I think it is true some PSU just don't do what they are supposed to especially one's with lower quality Corsair will do you right .....