Solved Computer doesn't POST occasionally

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Computer doesn't get passed Motherboard Screen occasionally

Occasionally when I boot up my computer, it doesn't get past the MOBO screen and POST, after I press the reset button once, it usually works. I don't think I have had to press it twice. But like I said, this doesn't happen often. USUALLY it happens when I turn on my computer after it is shutdown for an hour or two (or overnight).

I don't know what is causing it to hold up but it's quite aggravating.

If anyone has anything to say/suggest let me know.
 
Last edited:

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
Sound Card
Integrated Audio VIA VT2021 codec
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual (19'' Samsung 1440 x 900 (2ms) SyncMaster Widescreen)
Screen Resolution
Dual (1440x900)
Hard Drives
Windows: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA - 128 GB, SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

WD Caviar Blue - 500 GB, SATA 3.0 Gb/s, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD5000AAKS)
WD Caviar Black - 1 TB, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, 64MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD1002FAEX)
PSU
CORSAIR HX850 - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker
Mouse
Razer DeathAdder
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Microsoft LifeCam Cinema, A40 Audio System - MLG Edition, M-Audio Bx8 D2's
I'm not sure I understand. Could you clarify?

POST is the Power On Self Test. It happens first. The system will normally beep once if POST is successful.

Then the BIOS or UEFI loads and runs it's routine. (which do you normally have?)

Then the operating system is started ("Starting Windows").

Where in this process does it freeze?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
Okay let me clarify, guess I didn't know the terms. It POSTs everytime regardless. It gets stuck on the Motherboard Screen if it does.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
Sound Card
Integrated Audio VIA VT2021 codec
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual (19'' Samsung 1440 x 900 (2ms) SyncMaster Widescreen)
Screen Resolution
Dual (1440x900)
Hard Drives
Windows: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA - 128 GB, SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

WD Caviar Blue - 500 GB, SATA 3.0 Gb/s, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD5000AAKS)
WD Caviar Black - 1 TB, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, 64MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD1002FAEX)
PSU
CORSAIR HX850 - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker
Mouse
Razer DeathAdder
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Microsoft LifeCam Cinema, A40 Audio System - MLG Edition, M-Audio Bx8 D2's
OK. When the the system freezes during the BIOS routine it normally points to hardware. Some component of the system is failing to a point that the BIOS quits.

The components that can fail at that level are all of them: power supply, motherboard, CPU, RAM, Graphics, connected internal drives, connected external devices.

Your first step should be to check every connection, and re-seat all devices.

  • Then, check the 3v battery on the motherboard.
  • If you have been overclocking or have recently made any changes to the BIOS settings you should perform a ClearCMOS (CLRTC).
  • Then you want to simplify the system and do a no boot diagnostic:

The Test (power off, power cord unplugged):

  • Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices, etc). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one. The wireless device is just another component you have to deal with.
  • Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives, etc).
  • Remove all the cards installed in the expansion slots (PCI/PCI-e) including the video card. (Be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
  • Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).
Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.

  • The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
  • Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
  • Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS start screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
  • If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
  • If you do get video then start adding components back, one at a time, until the system fails to boot. The last component you added is then the problem component.

Let us know what you find.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
OK. When the the system freezes during the BIOS routine it normally points to hardware. Some component of the system is failing to a point that the BIOS quits.

The components that can fail at that level are all of them: power supply, motherboard, CPU, RAM, Graphics, connected internal drives, connected external devices.

Your first step should be to check every connection, and re-seat all devices.

  • Then, check the 3v battery on the motherboard.
  • If you have been overclocking or have recently made any changes to the BIOS settings you should perform a ClearCMOS (CLRTC).
  • Then you want to simplify the system and do a no boot diagnostic:

The Test (power off, power cord unplugged):

  • Disconnect everything externally connected except the mouse and keyboard (printers, USB devices, etc). If you are not using a wired mouse and keyboard see if you can borrow one. The wireless device is just another component you have to deal with.
  • Disconnect the power and data cables from all the drives inside the computer (Hard drives, DVD/CD drives, etc).
  • Remove all the cards installed in the expansion slots (PCI/PCI-e) including the video card. (Be careful handling them and place them on a non conductive surface while testing).
  • Remove all the RAM sticks (same rules as above).
Now connect the power cord and turn the PC on.

  • The motherboard should start beeping. You should get a beep code that tells you there is no memory. This is good, it means the processor is functioning and the motherboard is good so far.
  • Now add one stick of memory in Slot A1 and power on. More beeping: "no video card" beep code. This is good.
  • Then add the video card and connect it to the monitor. You should get no beeping and you should see the BIOS start screens, ending with the message that there is no boot device.
  • If you get no video then switch the one memory stick installed for another one and test.
  • If you do get video then start adding components back, one at a time, until the system fails to boot. The last component you added is then the problem component.

Let us know what you find.

The problem with this test is that it my issue rarely happens. I did check my 3v battery and it is fine, 3.18volts still. << this reset my bios

EDIT: Sorry about the slow response, i'm in college and it's finals week here so i've been busy with studying, but yes I did read your response and have been thinking about it. I just feel like this won't really do much because of the fact that my issue is so random/rare.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
Sound Card
Integrated Audio VIA VT2021 codec
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual (19'' Samsung 1440 x 900 (2ms) SyncMaster Widescreen)
Screen Resolution
Dual (1440x900)
Hard Drives
Windows: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA - 128 GB, SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

WD Caviar Blue - 500 GB, SATA 3.0 Gb/s, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD5000AAKS)
WD Caviar Black - 1 TB, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, 64MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD1002FAEX)
PSU
CORSAIR HX850 - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker
Mouse
Razer DeathAdder
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Microsoft LifeCam Cinema, A40 Audio System - MLG Edition, M-Audio Bx8 D2's
Then I suggest trying to limp along until finals are over. When you are off on winter break you could use that time to try and track down the hardware fault.

We will still be here.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
Then I suggest trying to limp along until finals are over. When you are off on winter break you could use that time to try and track down the hardware fault.

We will still be here.

Why would a hardware fault be so random though? That's what I don't understand. I feel like if it was hardware then why wouldn't it happen everytime... and all of this hard is <6months old except for my PSU
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
Sound Card
Integrated Audio VIA VT2021 codec
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual (19'' Samsung 1440 x 900 (2ms) SyncMaster Widescreen)
Screen Resolution
Dual (1440x900)
Hard Drives
Windows: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA - 128 GB, SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

WD Caviar Blue - 500 GB, SATA 3.0 Gb/s, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD5000AAKS)
WD Caviar Black - 1 TB, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, 64MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD1002FAEX)
PSU
CORSAIR HX850 - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker
Mouse
Razer DeathAdder
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Microsoft LifeCam Cinema, A40 Audio System - MLG Edition, M-Audio Bx8 D2's
Why would a hardware fault be so random though?
Because hardware can fault without failing. If the problem device actually failed the PC would not work. Total failure is easier to diagnose than partial failure and faults.
At the BIOS level all the machine is doing is waking up and counting it's components. It queries the component, the component responds, it checks the component against the list it keeps, and moves on to the other components.
If the component does not communicated as expected the system will retry a few times before it moves on. Sometimes it will get hung up at this point, sometimes it will resolve the conflict. Sometimes the component doesn't communicated on the first try, but does on the second or third.

and all of this hard is <6months old
There are 2 points in the life of hardware that it is MOST likely to fail: when it is very new, and when it is very old.

except for my PSU
And that is the component that is most often the prime suspect in randomly occurring faults like yours. "Dirty" power at startup is a very common cause of hardware faulting the BIOS check.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
Why would a hardware fault be so random though?
Because hardware can fault without failing. If the problem device actually failed the PC would not work. Total failure is easier to diagnose than partial failure and faults.
At the BIOS level all the machine is doing is waking up and counting it's components. It queries the component, the component responds, it checks the component against the list it keeps, and moves on to the other components.
If the component does not communicated as expected the system will retry a few times before it moves on. Sometimes it will get hung up at this point, sometimes it will resolve the conflict. Sometimes the component doesn't communicated on the first try, but does on the second or third.

and all of this hard is <6months old
There are 2 points in the life of hardware that it is MOST likely to fail: when it is very new, and when it is very old.

except for my PSU
And that is the component that is most often the prime suspect in randomly occurring faults like yours. "Dirty" power at startup is a very common cause of hardware faulting the BIOS check.

Do you think I should go about checking the PSU first before trying to determine if it is another component within my computer? (Only reason asking this is because, yes mine is old/potentially not enough Power for my build)

Edit: Just something else to note: I do get Memory Management Bluescreens when I put too much stress on my computer while gaming/streaming. (RAM or motherboard slots are not bad, memtested multiple times). I think this is from my RAM not getting enough Power. This doesn't happen often, only when i'm doing A LOT
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
Sound Card
Integrated Audio VIA VT2021 codec
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual (19'' Samsung 1440 x 900 (2ms) SyncMaster Widescreen)
Screen Resolution
Dual (1440x900)
Hard Drives
Windows: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA - 128 GB, SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

WD Caviar Blue - 500 GB, SATA 3.0 Gb/s, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD5000AAKS)
WD Caviar Black - 1 TB, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, 64MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD1002FAEX)
PSU
CORSAIR HX850 - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker
Mouse
Razer DeathAdder
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Microsoft LifeCam Cinema, A40 Audio System - MLG Edition, M-Audio Bx8 D2's
Absolutely! Do you have a friend who will let you borrow a newer, larger PS to put in your PC temporarily to test?

And you are correct too about poor power and RAM issues.

On the other hand, considering that is a really nice system you have there, it's sort of a crime to be powering that with anything other than a nice new PS. Just sayin'
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
When you have time, reseat your RAM modules and any add-in cards like video. Then double check all your power and data cables to be sure they are firmly connected. External USB devices have been know to cause a failed POST so check those as well, or even unplug what you're not using and see if the problem goes away. Cables, plugs, modules and add-in cards can get moved by heat and vibration. It one of them develops an intermittent connection it will be an intermittent problem. Be careful to avoid an ESD while checking things inside the case. ESD = Electrostatic Discharge.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built
OS
Windows 10 Education 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 980 Black Edition Deneb 3.7GHz
Motherboard
Asus M4N68T-M V2 µATX Motherboard
Memory
8GB 4GBx2 Kingston PC10600 DDR3 1333 Memory
Graphics Card(s)
Zotac NVIDIA Geforce GT640 2 Gig DDR3 PCIe
Sound Card
VIA VT1708s High Definition Audio 8-channel Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LG E2242 1080p and 2 19" I-INC AG191D
Screen Resolution
1280x1024 - 1920x1080 - 1280x1024
Hard Drives
Crucial M100 256 GB SSD and 500 GB WD Blue SATA
PSU
Thermaltake TR 620
Case
Power Up Black ATX Mid-Tower Case
Cooling
Stock heatsink and fan
Keyboard
Logitech Wireless K350 Wave
Mouse
Logitech Wireless M570 Trackman Wheel
Internet Speed
80 Mbps Down 30 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
HP DVD1040e Lightscribe - External USB2
Upgraded to Corsair HX850, haven't had one issue and it's been almost a month :D

I think the new PSU did the trick. YAYY
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel i7-3770K Ivy Bridge 3.5GHz (3.9GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H (rev. 1.0)
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5
Sound Card
Integrated Audio VIA VT2021 codec
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual (19'' Samsung 1440 x 900 (2ms) SyncMaster Widescreen)
Screen Resolution
Dual (1440x900)
Hard Drives
Windows: Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA - 128 GB, SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

WD Caviar Blue - 500 GB, SATA 3.0 Gb/s, 16 MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD5000AAKS)
WD Caviar Black - 1 TB, SATA 6.0 Gb/s, 64MB Cache, 7200 RPM (WD1002FAEX)
PSU
CORSAIR HX850 - 80 PLUS GOLD Certified
Case
COOLER MASTER HAF 922
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker
Mouse
Razer DeathAdder
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Google Chrome
Other Info
Microsoft LifeCam Cinema, A40 Audio System - MLG Edition, M-Audio Bx8 D2's
The likely suspect. Guilty again!

Glad you got it fixed.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
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