Daily BSOD...

[axe0]

TC, please fill in your system specs, it would be very helpful to us.

Please follow this tutorial and download the tool. The tool will give you detailed information about your system specs, please fill in your system specs more completely.
How to fill in your system specs:

 

[ThatCreeper]

Adding my specs now. I just installed the new firmware for my SSD.

 

[ThatCreeper]

Here we go, a BSOD just now.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

TC, please fill in your system specs, it would be very helpful to us.

Yep Axe mate I did ask that back in post#33 but anyway it obviously slipped TC's mind as I did post a fair bit back then

PS Found this for that stop code don't know if it is of any help as there seems to be a lot of answers

Blue screen showing Stop: 0x000000F4 - Microsoft Community

But it will be good to get your dumps

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Just went right back again TC and mate can you please humour me up and run this

Using HW Info

PART A:

You can test the volts onthe PSU with HW Info HWiNFO,HWiNFO32/64 - Download <download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensorsand scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts aredoing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton)with VBATT is a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages.There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE

Now the voltage on thedifferent rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machinewill not work properly if at all.

See this for the railvoltage info

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061.html (Section 2.)

The original right handwindow shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at thecomponents in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel

FOR OTHER COMPONENTS

PART B:

Open each small squarewith + in it on the section the components are in and then click on theindividual component/s (it willhighlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of detailsincluding brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. Seepic for example.

I am asking because if the PSU is not delivering the correct volts on the devices three main rails and the Power Good signal being kept at it's nominal voltage then none of the rest of the machine is going to work properly. The Power Good signal can be read with a digital multimeter at pin 8 (grey cable) on the 24 pin board socket and see my pic for what section in the Sensor readout you are looking for.

 

[axe0]

That link of Microsoft is not much helpful to me, but I need the logs to get more info on what the problem could be.

TC, please run the BSOD tool again and upload the zip file.

 

[ThatCreeper]

The above, right, ICIT?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

That link of Microsoft is not much helpful to me

Well me neither really axe mate but thought it worth a shot checking out.

TC rails all ok mate I like to keep them within that 5% +/-. When you need to check other stuff out to PART B: will give you very detailed readings on whatever we are checking out.

That is particularly so when the BSOD dumps start throwing faults for dedicated components.

 

[Laith]

I was supposed to reply to this thread but totally forgot so here you go:

Since this is a an 0xF4 it could mean several things, for example failing RAM, a failing harddrive, a virus etc.
Run these tools to help you out:

Run Malwarebytes to scan for viruses http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/338716-malwarebytes-anti-malware-free.html
Run MemTest86+, it must be MemTest86+(for 8 passes) http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/105647-ram-test-memtest86.html
I've done some digging and i couldn't find the tools for your SSD so please run HDTune and S.M.A.R.T.

 

[ThatCreeper]

Memtest is installed on the USB and will be running the test tonight so I will get back to you about that early next morning.

 

[Laith]

There's no need for MemTest as we have found your problem, it's your SSD overheating. Can you try to install Windows on the HDD and unplug your SSD when running Windows on the HDD.

 

[ThatCreeper]

Would I have to transfer everything off from the HDD? The HDD itself currently is pretty full with Steam games and music. It does have around 80GB free though. How would I go about installing Windows 7 on the HDD without losing the data itself?

If the SSD itself is indeed overheating, will it need replacing? I'm not sure about this - as you can see. Sorry for all of the questions.

 

[Laith]

Yes, or to an external media and yes the SSD needs replacing, if you can get it RMA:ed.

 

[ThatCreeper]

What could have caused this? The SSD was defective from the get-go? About a couple of months later after the build and purchase of the PC, I started getting the BSOD...

 

[Laith]

Since i can't find any info about "A-RAM", it means that they are some knockoff brand who is just looking to make money by selling cheap electronics that fail very quickly.

 

[ThatCreeper]

Wow. Seems like you're correct. I just found this.

I'm going to just dig around for some reviews and choose a new SSD, will most likely go with Intel. I guess this is solved? Seriously appreciate the work here, people. Thank you.

 

[derekimo]

Interesting, on their website, the latest news is from 2012,

View attachment 374164

A-Ram Website

Hong Kong company.

I see the latest firmware is from 2011,

View attachment 374166

Can't go wrong with Intel.

 

[ThatCreeper]

That's around the time the PC was built. Late 2012. I recently updated the firmware and that didn't do anything to stop the BSOD.

Again, thanks people. Intel it is.

 

[derekimo]

Yeah, I was just posting that date because it seems they just stopped any support. It states they have a 3 year warranty but I see no way to RMA with them.

View attachment 374168

Probably just as well, I wouldn't want another one of those, you got about 3 years out of it.

 

[ThatCreeper]

Seems like the PC was built with nice brand parts, MSI mobo, Western Digital HDD, CoolerMaster PSU and case... except for the SSD. Makes no sense on why they would do that and go with A-Ram. Oh well. If I had the knowledge I do now in terms of brands and parts in general, I would have spoken up about that.