DVD's trays don't eject from time to time.

[smiths22]

I have 2 different optical units a Sony DVD burner and a pioneeer and from time to time when i press the eject button on any of them the tray doesn't eject, you can see it 'trying' to open, but it's almost as if something inside is trying to 'stop' the thing from opening.

But other times both units work flawlessly.

Which is the culprit here? My PSU, my MOBO or Windows 7?

I suspect the culprit is the MOBO, i have a 2011 ASUS MOBO updated with latest firmware, any solutions please?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hiyya smiths mate maybe the drives are just past their use by date - how old are they?.

You can open them using a straightened paperclip by pushing it into the small holes in the tray fronts.

Before that just check the power supply hook ups are reseated it might just be they have become "cruddy".

The other alternative is to remove the drives and open the case and inspect the inside mechanisms - it could need a tiny and I mean tiny drop of sewing machine oil on the bearings you will see.

 

[smiths22]

Hi ICIT2LOL

This is a power related issue IMO. Before the current sony i have i had another who started to do the same i replaced it thinking it was faulty. I was wrong.

The issue happens with both of my units (sony and pioneer) pretty much at the same time, if one gets stuck same with the other, if one works same thing.

What do you mean by reseated? unplug and plug again?
Before that just check the power supply hook ups are reseated it might just be they have become "cruddy".

I think the culprit might be the MOBO or perhaps the PSU?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yes Smiths just unplug and plug them in again (power - and SATA if you wish I would do both ).
Now if you want to check out the PSU see my little ditty and pic
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic.
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Now the volts must be within 5% +/- of the required value see this
Voltage Rails - Power Supply 101: A Reference Of Specifications You can of course measure them with a digital multimeter - use the black lead to any black cable on the 24 pin pug to the board and the red lead to the colours - for the volts colours see this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer) scroll to the bottom it will show you the set up of that plug, now the GPU plug or any other power lead use the same principle black is always ground / negative.

 

[GokAy]

Hey, is your PSU modular? Maybe the rail is going bad or the cable has broken somewhere.

You can try (to diagnose if it's indeed power related).
- another connector on the PSU (if modular)
- a different power cable (if modular)
- use one of the molex connectors and a molex-to-sata power cable (it may have came with your case or some other component) - costs a couple of bucks if you don't have one.
- disconnect a data harddisk sata power temporarily and use that to power a DVD-ROM.

experiment

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yep GoKay mate the cable might be bad but the test I suggested will detect the rail voltage and the PSU does have that self testing circuitry that will stop the machine firing up if the rails are not right - or at least within +/- 5% of the required / stated voltage. That link I sent to the OP explains that quite well.

But I agree that it does need to be tried out eh?

 

[GokAy]

the PSU does have that self testing circuitry that will stop the machine firing up if the rails are not right - or at least within +/- 5% of the required / stated voltage.

This bit I had no idea about.

To be honest the best clue we have, I guess, is that both show the symptom at the same time. Now, if they were to lose all power then OS might have problem registering them in device manager? Also would play new device found sound? I wonder if they would open if in Windows Explorer you click Eject.

From a thread on tomshardware:
Things to try:
1) Shut down, remove the data and power cable to the drive, the boot up. Now shut down and attach the cables again.

*If #1 doesn't work, repeat but with a different SATA connection (to a different SATA chip. See the motherboard manual or just choose a different colour of connector).

 

[Wandering one]

Have the same thing happening with mine sometimes. It seems as if the latch does not release quick enough before the tray tries to open and then the pressure of the tray keeps the latch closed.
In my case if I give a quick push on the tray when it is trying to open, it releases right away and opens. Don't know if this works for you but if it does it means the latch has a wear spot and is sticking.
Art.

 

[Mellon Head]

I have the same problem with repeated optical drives on my machine. It's just wear on the eject mechanism. Most CD/DVD drives are built very cheaply and the mechanisms wear out fast. I replace the drive and it works for a year, then it starts to open like this and I replace it.

Just a note, the drive open and close mechanism has almost nothing to do with the motherboard, other than the signal sent by some programs though the SATA port to open the drive. The button on the front of the drive is attached to electronics inside the drive, not the motherboard. If you actually disconnect the SATA cable, the drive will still open and close with this button with no attachment to the motherboard. At least mine will.

If it were a power problem the drive wouldn't spin, or not spin at its proper speed, as the turning motor is rated for 12V, so wrong voltage = wrong spinning speed = errors reading or writing to the CD or DVD.

I think this is simply a case of mechanical wear and coincidence, as long as the power supply checks out OK.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Well for what it is worth the drives are so inexpensive these days and if reasonably worn maybe worth trying at least one new one.

 

[smiths22]

First of all, thank you all the posters for showing interest in my problem, i'm very grateful.

@ ICIT2LOL Plug and unplug done on both drivers, both SATA and power cables. So far no issues, but can't claim victory yet.

Regardign Part A here's my screen:

Are the values ok? Regarding part B i'm not that skilfull regarding electronics.

Update: The plug and unplug step didn't work.

 

[smiths22]

Hey, is your PSU modular? Maybe the rail is going bad or the cable has broken somewhere.

You can try (to diagnose if it's indeed power related).
- another connector on the PSU (if modular)
- a different power cable (if modular)
- use one of the molex connectors and a molex-to-sata power cable (it may have came with your case or some other component) - costs a couple of bucks if you don't have one.
- disconnect a data harddisk sata power temporarily and use that to power a DVD-ROM.

experiment

Yes its a modular gold one:



Shouldn't give me any issues...

Its just sad that Sony doesn't manufacture dvd drives anymore....now the only options are: LG, Samsung and Asus; i bought a Samsung a few months ago, utterly garbage, when i tried to install windows 7 from 0, after the first reboot, it started to read the disc at such a low speed that it was useless......i got rid of that drive.


Nodoby has blamed the MOBO ports so far....maybe those are the culprit and there's nothing i can do if that's the case.

I don't think the drives are the one to blame, as i mentioned above the Sony i replaced a few months ago replaced another Sony unit doing the same (both same model) perhaps the model was the issue, right now the Sony one is failing but not the Pioneer, i'm gonna change the Sony for a Lite on and test.... man hard to know.

It's so painful for me to say to Sony goodbye.....think i'm gonna go with Asus now.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Volts are fine Smiths and it could be the cables just needed that reseating.

Now I quite like the Lite on for optical drives (my Sandy Bridge build has one for years now) and my main desktop (the Ivy Bridge) has a Samsung Blu ray in right now and I haven't had a problem with it.

I really do think it is pot luck with a lot of components and just for the record most of the stuff is made in China anyhow and from a doco I saw recently - even in the same factory only using separate production lines that ran the length of that factory.

Now there are ones by Asus, Pioneer, and Silverstone - the latter I don't know much about so cannot pass comment.

I think maybe your experience with the Samsung was really bad luck and these devices are now really cheap to buy.

 

[GokAy]

The low performance of the Samsung could have been related to firmware. I remember updating the firmware of my drives, but haven't done such thing in a long time and don't know if still valid.

 

[smiths22]

Well for what it is worth the drives are so inexpensive these days and if reasonably worn maybe worth trying at least one new one.

Well i replaced yesterday that Sony for an old Lite on and i have no issues so far....apparently all that batch of Sony's were faulty (A7260S) or maybe just bad luck for me, 2 in a row.
The strange thing is the Pioneer is working now fine too.

Sony is dead and gone in my country, the current flavours are: Asus or Samsung, i've already tried Samsung with the issues above mentioned (even with the latest firmware) so time to give Asus a try.

Not many models where i can choose from, in fact there's only 1:

DRW-24F1ST
http://www.asus.com/Storage_Optical_Drives/DRW24F1ST/overview/

I'm going to buy a piece tomorrow and tell you my results.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Probably nothing to do with your issue but Sony were involved in some "unwelcome" software issues a few years back - maybe the drive's controller was corrupted and was corrupting the Pioneer somehow. But never mind all fixed hopefully

 

[smiths22]

Probably nothing to do with your issue but Sony were involved in some "unwelcome" software issues a few years back - maybe the drive's controller was corrupted and was corrupting the Pioneer somehow. But never mind all fixed hopefully

You mean firmware issues?


The issue is very clear now, it happens with the Sony driver but not with the Lite on, this was my last Sony guys and i'm gonna miss them, utterly quiet units, this lite on is horrible loud and regarding the Asus one posted above... i didn't buy it i read the review is louder even with no disc inside.

CD is dying and with it the readers....Man guess i should better start ripping all my cd's into flac...

 

[AddRAM]

Good thing you hardly ever use it huh

 

[smiths22]

Good thing you hardly ever use it huh

Nahh, i love music and i still buy cd's, as a matter of fact today i bought one. It's a pity Sony died as a manufacturer of reader units.

Yes i have a Spotify account too but definitely don't like the futuristic idea of not owning the music (minimum the discs).

 

[AddRAM]

So just rip your discs, Iron Maiden and BLS all over this box

Face your fear accept your war.... It is what It is