Games / Videos / Streams give me BSOD

[Jordans]

Ok Jordan mate the best way of finding out about stuff like that is to Google it and that is what I do a lot and I suspect others too. Now from this link AODDriver4.01 - [Solved] - Graphics Cards - Tom's Hardware it looks like something to do with the AMD graphics namely the Catalytic Control Centre so have you ever had an AMD GPU in that machine?? If not I am wondering why that AOD is there - I did think for a moment there it might have been graphics on the CPU but apparently not.

The Logmein error I don't know about that only that there is a way of manually removing it but I would like to hear what the others have to say about that.

Alright, so I successfully removed the logmein mirror driver, I believe. As for the AMD driver problem, I have never had an AMD GPU in this machine, but I do remember having to uninstall the driver and the catalyst thing a while back, maybe I downloaded it on accident or something?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Alright well I have no idea of how the AMD stuff got there as you say maybe downloaded by accident.

However I am assuming that as you mentioned back in post #13 you purchased the machine from Newegg just maybe the previous owner if it was a refurbished machine had an AMD GPU installed at some time prior to you getting the machine?

In any case the issues have they now gone?

 

[Jordans]

No, I still have the crashing/BSOD. I bought the PC new aswell it was some Cyberpower / newegg deal newegg was selling for a black Friday or something special.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No, I still have the crashing/BSOD. I bought the PC new aswell it was some Cyberpower / newegg deal newegg was selling for a black Friday or something special.

Hmm was thinking maybe it was a refurbished one. So it is back to trying to track down what this problem is.

Now this might seem a bit strange but can you follow this as I would like to see if the PSU is ok
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

 

[Jordans]

So a little confused on what i'm supposed to do here I took pictures of some things and saw something that had a warning sign?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok Jordan now according to the pic you sent back the +12v rail is getting too close for comfort to the lower end limit and the 5v rail is very very low and I am surprise if that is the case the machine is functioning at all.

Now if it were me I would now test the 5v on the red cables inside the machine with a digital multimeter just to make sure. That is best done at the large 24 pin plug to the motherboard. However that is up to you but seeing the 5v readings I think you really should do that before anything else because voltages as explained in the HW Info spiel link will tell you that excessively low or high voltages can damage board components.
This is a rather detailed description of the PSU protection PSU 101: PSU Protections and is different to the older version of this link unfortunately because it was simpler.


Attached is a diagram of the cable layout from a Wikipedia article which I shall also link.
Power supply unit (computer - Wikipedia)

 

[Jordans]

So you're saying my PSU is bad? Or just to double check the voltages with a digital multimeter? I don't own one so is it worth me going out and buying one? or just investing in a new PSU?

 

[axe0]

IMO it would be worth checking in the BIOS for the 3.3v, 5v and 12v values.
Programs aren't as accurate as the BIOS, as you can see below in the picture I should've had a lot of trouble with my PSU according to HWMonitor.
EDIT: I shouldn't even be able to boot the system, didn't realize how low the values are...
View attachment 396867

 

[ICIT2LOL]

So you're saying my PSU is bad? Or just to double check the voltages with a digital multimeter? I don't own one so is it worth me going out and buying one? or just investing in a new PSU?

No what I am saying is rather than relying on any software checking program that you should test the 24 pin plug to the motherboard with a digital multimeter - they are very cheap to buy and will give you a very accurate voltage reading than as I said any software will. I stated that (back in my last post) that you should test the red cables on that 24 pin plug and as a general rule I then test the red cables to all the components that have a red cable (5v) connection as and when I can access them.

For the record I use HW Info as a ready and easy to use check for the voltage rails on a PSU and am not saying it is infallible not do I think that the CPUID that axe has linked is infallible either the only sure way is to check it yourself.
Moreover I have used this software on my own three desktops many times and then tested the output on the individual 24 pin plugs and have found that the volts are usually on the money or very close to it - my only thought is that maybe it could be due to what one is running in the individual machine either components wise or software I do not have a crystal ball to find that out or disproving that theory.

As it stands I think I will have to reconsider linking what I think is a perfectly good first line method of checking PSU rails and that is a shame because the PSU does cause more issues than some give credence to as a fellow named Scott Mueller ( a well known authourity on computing) stated in his book Upgrading and Repairing PCs.

Anyway the choice is yours as to what you do about the PSU.