HDMI Headscratcher

spottydog10

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I am having a problem with the HDMI socket on my Hannspree 37" YTO8 TV.
I have been connecting my pc to the HDMI without problem for the last couple of years now it suddenly comes up with "No signal".
Nothing in the pc has changed and I have tried a laptop also without success.
I have checked all the settings on both the pc and laptop and changed cables.
I have tried every resolution ion my graphic card (even tho it worked fine before)
Both computers fail to detect the TV as a monitor.
If I plug my BT Vision box or my DVD into the same socket it works OK.

What other steps can I take to troubleshoot?
Is it possible that the HDMI socket on the tv is faulty to the extent that it will not accept a signal from a computer but will from a BT Vision box or a DVD Player? If so what is the solution?
Thanks
Mike
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
home built
OS
windows 7 enterprise 64-bit
CPU
intel i7 [email protected]
Motherboard
asus px68-v-lx
Memory
G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-
Graphics Card(s)
ati radeon hd 4800
Sound Card
emu 0404
Monitor(s) Displays
dgm 23 inch
Hard Drives
ocz vertex 3 160gb ssd
hitachi 1T sata
wd raptor 1500
PSU
genereic 650wt
Case
vento
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2
Since both PC and laptop don't work something might have broken inside TV. Maybe a GPU driver issue as well. Both have the same GPU brand?

Try other HDMI ports and if that fail, try the side HDMI port on the TV (if there is one), that should be independent of the back ports.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
Hi mate,
No, the pc is an ATI card and the laptop Intel.
I've used different cables just in case and there is only one HDMI port on the TV.
I usually run through a HDMI 4 port hub but obviously when testing I'm going straight into the HDMI on the TV.
When it IS connected to the hub the light on the hub is steady (meaning it recognises both pc and laptop)
Cheers,
Mike
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
home built
OS
windows 7 enterprise 64-bit
CPU
intel i7 [email protected]
Motherboard
asus px68-v-lx
Memory
G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-
Graphics Card(s)
ati radeon hd 4800
Sound Card
emu 0404
Monitor(s) Displays
dgm 23 inch
Hard Drives
ocz vertex 3 160gb ssd
hitachi 1T sata
wd raptor 1500
PSU
genereic 650wt
Case
vento
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2
Slim chance but did you unplug power of TV and let it stay for a couple of minutes?
Did you restart PC/laptop while TV is connected and powered on?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
I turned all the TV stuff off at the wall for 15 mins last night.
I've also booted the pc/laptop from scratch, no luck either way.
Is it possible for a HDMI port to degrade like this?
I'd reset the TV but there is no code or service mode that I know of (I've tried the obvious)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
home built
OS
windows 7 enterprise 64-bit
CPU
intel i7 [email protected]
Motherboard
asus px68-v-lx
Memory
G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-
Graphics Card(s)
ati radeon hd 4800
Sound Card
emu 0404
Monitor(s) Displays
dgm 23 inch
Hard Drives
ocz vertex 3 160gb ssd
hitachi 1T sata
wd raptor 1500
PSU
genereic 650wt
Case
vento
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2
Not meaning to hijack this thread - but I'm also seeing the same problem with my HTPC > AVR > Samsung TV. Worked fine for many months and suddenly "no source" detected. Like you, I tried different cables and HDMI ports, going directly from HTPC to TV.

However, in my case I found that if I lower the resolution to below 1080x1920 the TV will detect the HTPC signal, but once the resolution switched to 1080x1920 (such as to play a movie) the source is lost. I suspect either the Samsung TV received a firmware update or the HDMI board is going bad. I have a call into Samsung.

I have not tried using a EDID "emulator" (like GenFen HDMI Detective) or HDCP striper (which I didn't need before) - but some others have suggested that I may need one.

I'll watch this thread and post back if I find out anything useful.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
i3 2100T
Motherboard
ASRock H67M-ITX
I guess the issue is a bit different, as I understand your PC detects the TV but there is no show on the TV? OP has problem both PC and laptop can't see the TV as a display in the first place so no way of lowering resolution.

I doubt a TV will do a firmware update unknown to you. A driver issue would be more likely. Did you try an older driver yet? Or a Live Linux DVD (Linux Mint MATE perhaps)? Starting a new thread would be best I believe.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
If the TV is a so called smart TV, I wouldn't be surprised if Samsung snuck in a firmware update.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Jeannie, upon your comment I searched a bit and you may be correct. Though as I understand you need to enable the feature.

How do I update my Samsung device?
To update your Samsung device, follow these easy steps:

1. Turn on your Samsung Smart TV - making sure that it is connected to the internet. In some cases it is recommended that you leave the device turned on for at least 5 minutes.
2. Using your remote control, go to the TV’s options menu by clicking the “MENU” button on your remote control. Use the down arrow on the remote to go to the “Support” tab (appears next to the question mark symbol “?”), and select the “Software Update” option.
3. Select the “Online” option.

As long as your Samsung device is connected to the internet, it will connect to the Samsung servers to look for an update. If there is an update available it will begin installing automatically.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
Samsung took some heat recently on their "smart" TVs listening in on people's conversations and allowing third parties to access them to listen for voice commands so it wouldn't surprise me if Samsung "snuck" in a firmware update. "Smart" TVs scare the bejabbers out of me ('tis no wonder I'm 100% bejabber free)!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Slim chance but did you unplug power of TV and let it stay for a couple of minutes?
Did you restart PC/laptop while TV is connected and powered on?

There have been several firmware updates since I go the TV about a year ago. It is a Samsung PV64F8500 (plasma) "Smart TV" that is always "on/on-standby" and connected to my network (for Netflix, Hulu, and similar apps). When an update is available, a message scrolls across the top of the screen. You can do the update now or it will automatically update itself later. At least it tells you its updating (but I have no idea why it needs to update).

My issue is a little different from the OP's. But the solution may be the same if the problem is related to HDCP or "handshaking" (EDID). I'm going to borrow a "HDCP striper" and see if that does anything.

BTW - I did not unplug the TV and let it sit, and then retest. I forgot about this advice - and its "free and easy", so I'll do that tonight.

I did restart the computer while the TV is on (several times). When I do this I can see the PC boot up (read the BIOS screen). It goes all the way to the Windows Starting screen then I lose the signal (TV says " no source detected" at that point.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Home Premium
CPU
i3 2100T
Motherboard
ASRock H67M-ITX
CB, if the pc boots all the way to the opening screen isn't that an indication of the drivers of the pc kicking in? If you've already thought of that, sorry:)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
home built
OS
windows 7 enterprise 64-bit
CPU
intel i7 [email protected]
Motherboard
asus px68-v-lx
Memory
G-Skill 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600Mhz RipjawsX Memory Kit CL9 (9-
Graphics Card(s)
ati radeon hd 4800
Sound Card
emu 0404
Monitor(s) Displays
dgm 23 inch
Hard Drives
ocz vertex 3 160gb ssd
hitachi 1T sata
wd raptor 1500
PSU
genereic 650wt
Case
vento
Cooling
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2
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