How Can You Mend A Dead Pixel's Heart?

alfred01

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Hello. I'm just trying to get a definitive answer to my problem. I have a black spot on my taskbar and from my search here on SF and Googling, the difference between a stuck pixel and a dead one is that a stuck pixel will be white or a colour while a dead pixel will be black. This leads me to my conclusion that what I have is a dead pixel (my warranty ran out about 2 weeks ago so the timing seems right).

The majority of opinions is that there is no fix for a dead pixel. When I Google, however, there are 2 or 3 hits that claim there is a fix. Frankly, I am doubtful about these claims, but I would like to get the opinion of some of the people here at SF as I trust the knowledge of the people here the most.

So, to sum up, am I correct about the dead pixel and is there a fix?

Thank You, David
 

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Sorry but this is the best I could do.
I used the tutorial for finding the missing info but still could not find it. Special Thanks to PooMan UK and DocBrown for their help in filling out these specs.
On an LCD/LED/TFT screen, each pixel (or, rather, group of 3 sub-pixels since each pixel is actually comprised of a red, green, and blue element) is controlled by a transistor array. If we think of these transistors as switches, when they are open the appropriate sub-pixel is turned off and no light is admitted through. Conversely, when they are closed, the appropriate sub-pixel is turned on and light is allowed through, the colour of which is determined by the sub-pixel.

We use the terms dead pixel to refer to a pixel that is completely dead and shows no colour whatsoever, whereas a stuck pixel means that at least 1 of the 3 sub-pixels in that pixel group is permanently turned on (the others may, or may not, operate as normal). In both cases, the root cause is the same, this being a dead transistor or transistors (they can fail either open or short circuit).

Unfortunately, it is not generally possible to reactivate these transistors, once dead they stay dead. Some people say that by gently rubbing in the area of the dead/stuck pixel, it is possible to bring it back to life, whereas others maintain that by rapidly cycling the pixels surrounding the problematic one it is also possible to revive it. This may or may not work, and there is no guarantee either way.
 

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On an LCD/LED/TFT screen, each pixel (or, rather, group of 3 sub-pixels since each pixel is actually comprised of a red, green, and blue element) is controlled by a transistor array. If we think of these transistors as switches, when they are open the appropriate sub-pixel is turned off and no light is admitted through. Conversely, when they are closed, the appropriate sub-pixel is turned on and light is allowed through, the colour of which is determined by the sub-pixel.

We use the terms dead pixel to refer to a pixel that is completely dead and shows no colour whatsoever, whereas a stuck pixel means that at least 1 of the 3 sub-pixels in that pixel group is permanently turned on (the others may, or may not, operate as normal). In both cases, the root cause is the same, this being a dead transistor or transistors (they can fail either open or short circuit).

Unfortunately, it is not generally possible to reactivate these transistors, once dead they stay dead. Some people say that by gently rubbing in the area of the dead/stuck pixel, it is possible to bring it back to life, whereas others maintain that by rapidly cycling the pixels surrounding the problematic one it is also possible to revive it. This may or may not work, and there is no guarantee either way.

Thank You Dwarf.
David
 

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Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit SP1AMD Athlon 64 processor TF-20 1.6 GHz. 1 Core3 GB (2.75 available)ATI Radion HD 3200
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Sorry but this is the best I could do.
I used the tutorial for finding the missing info but still could not find it. Special Thanks to PooMan UK and DocBrown for their help in filling out these specs.

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Brid...4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2...MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit SP1AMD Athlon 64 processor TF-20 1.6 GHz. 1 Core3 GB (2.75 available)ATI Radion HD 3200
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Acer Aspire 5532
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit SP1
CPU
AMD Athlon 64 processor TF-20 1.6 GHz. 1 Core
Motherboard
MB.PGY02.001/MBPGY02001
Memory
3 GB (2.75 available)
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radion HD 3200
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP 15.6"
Screen Resolution
1366 x 768
Hard Drives
250 GB HDD (220 available)
PSU
?
Case
?
Cooling
Single cycling fan, on cooling stand
Keyboard
PNP Device ID ACPI\PNP0303\4&12734F14&0
Mouse
Microsoft Laser 7000
Internet Speed
Ultra high speed download 2500 kb/s upload 720 kb/s
Other Info
Norton Internet Security 2011
Sorry but this is the best I could do.
I used the tutorial for finding the missing info but still could not find it. Special Thanks to PooMan UK and DocBrown for their help in filling out these specs.
Why not call in about your warranty anyway? Some companies have helped me out if the warranty had just expired. However, many LCD brands wouldn't do a replacement for just one dead/stuck pixel. I've seen the number has high as 7 before a replacement is issued, but each vendor has their own policy. I'd still call, just in case. The worst that will happen is you are told they can't do anything.
 

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Why not call in about your warranty anyway? Some companies have helped me out if the warranty had just expired. However, many LCD brands wouldn't do a replacement for just one dead/stuck pixel. I've seen the number has high as 7 before a replacement is issued, but each vendor has their own policy. I'd still call, just in case. The worst that will happen is you are told they can't do anything.

I am assuming because, like the wiki article states, most manufactures since 2007 declare their products as Pixel Fault Class Level II. Having 7 dead pixels would make it a level 3. Potentialy causing a lawsuit of false advertisement if the product is not fix regardless of warranty. It's like buying a TV that states 3HDMI outputs and only gives you 2. A level 2 is a level 2 regardless of time. Reputation most likely also plays a role.

Correct me if I am wrong.
 

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The quote below dose not disagree with what was posted above but adds some more interesting information that may or may not have been on the Wiki site.

There is a fix that may or may not work, but it's not worth the trouble to try. First off, allow me to make a note of the basics on LCD's. You have to think of them on an X/Y grid. The power to turn on each row is run through a series of resistors on each row for both X and Y axis. Sometimes the resistor can have a voltage issue and that cause an errant (as in stuck) pixel or a dead one. If you trace the proper row to it's parent resistor then you can try to replace it. This may solve the problem. Then again, if the display it'self had a spec of dust on it, imperfection in the glass substrate, or any numbr of other issues at the time the liquid crystal compound was layed out then there is nothing you can do about it. In modern LCD's the resistors are called "surface mount" resistors and are very hard to remove without causing heat damage to other componets and getting a new one in place is even worse. There are a number of methods, but one has to have a good deal of experience in dealing with surface mounted circuits. You cant just grab any old solder iron and swap them out. So the best answer to your question is that there is no practical way to repair a dead or stuck pixel on an LCD.
Dead Pixel?
 

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