I am puzzled - HDD question

zpoison

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Hi,
while downloading a file from nitroflare on the net, with IDM my PC restarted.
The log shows atapi error as the first error (my HDD is in a external enclosure)

Its the second time the HDD makes the PC to restart in 7-10 days(not sure if its because of the HDD)
I believe the last time I was also downloading a file from the net

This HDD is new (bought as "new refurbished")

MY QUESTION
If I do a checkdisk from windows, with both 2 options checked(automatically fix + scan for & attempt recovery) will this be as good as if I do a cmd chkdsk /f /r ?

-----------------------------------------------------

ANOTHER QUESTION please

I need to know if a HDD is 100% like a new one (and won't make errors in the future)

What are the steps to take (in windows)


(no HDtune or similar please, I don't like this that much)
 

My Computer

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Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Depending on who you bought the HDD from, "new refurbished" could just mean the drive had the outside cleaned up and, maybe, a new label slapped on it. Or it could have actually had malfunctioning parts replaced inside (not likely, however).
 

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Yes, but I need to know the answer to my 2 questions please
It's been 2 times I am rebooting ( I now had stop the automatic reboot option when crash)

I want to know if I should return the HDD or not

My first 2 questions were about this subject

I need to know please
 

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Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Most hd makers have a special tool on their website to test the drive that will be a good test
 

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win 8 32 bit
Depending on who you bought the HDD from, "new refurbished" could just mean the drive had the outside cleaned up and, maybe, a new label slapped on it. Or it could have actually had malfunctioning parts replaced inside (not likely, however).

No refurbished drive is going to have any parts replaced. The cost of doing so would be more than the drive is worth. Essentially a refurbished drive is one that has passed all tests.
 

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HP
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Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
CPU
Xeon W3520
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8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia Geforce 210
I did the WD data lifeguard tool test and had the SMART test passed good
I did not make the full extended test, it would take 48 hours

If I pass the smart test, it means my HDD will not encounter any failure or something?

What I suspect is that the seller I bought from, is buying in bulk some HDD that have failed and he return them in bulk to WD and sell them back.
That's why I feel the need to really know if the HDD is fully working for good, for many years.
thanks
 

My Computer

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PC/Desktop
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Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I need to know if a HDD is 100% like a new one (and won't make errors in the future)

Impossible.

Any drive, any manufacturer, new or old, can fail at any time and often without warning or apparent cause.
The short and long tests tell you of the drives current state, but that tells you nothing of the future. SMART is an attempt to predict when a drive might fail but experience shows it is not very reliable. It tells you of specific conditions that have been associated with early drive failure. But the lack of any warning signs does not mean all is well. A drive that passes all tests and without any warning signs could be dead tomorrow. In most cases there is no way of knowing why the failure occurred. A drive can have internal problems that are undetectable by any known test.

Sorry, but that is reality.

You could try to return the drive but at present I doubt the manufacturer would accept it.
 

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HP
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Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
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Xeon W3520
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8 GB
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Nvidia Geforce 210
I would never buy a drive labeled "new refurbished"

Download and install Crystal Disk Info, see what it says about the drive.

Download Center - Crystal Dew World

Click on the link above to download the software. Install and run it, it will tell you if you drive is good.
 

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No refurbished drive is going to have any parts replaced. The cost of doing so would be more than the drive is worth. Essentially a refurbished drive is one that has passed all tests.

Note I said that it was unlikely. The higher end drives can have parts replaced cost effectively, depending on the part. I was told this awhile back by a WD rep on another forum.
 

My Computer

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PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
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Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
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IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Impossible.

Any drive, any manufacturer, new or old, can fail at any time and often without warning or apparent cause.
The short and long tests tell you of the drives current state, but that tells you nothing of the future. SMART is an attempt to predict when a drive might fail but experience shows it is not very reliable. It tells you of specific conditions that have been associated with early drive failure. But the lack of any warning signs does not mean all is well. A drive that passes all tests and without any warning signs could be dead tomorrow. In most cases there is no way of knowing why the failure occurred. A drive can have internal problems that are undetectable by any known test.

Sorry, but that is reality.

You could try to return the drive but at present I doubt the manufacturer would accept it.

It's also possible for a drive to pass diagnostic tests and have good S.M.A.R.T attributes and still not function properly, especially if the problem is intermittent. I had a brand new Samsung 4TB EVO SSD repeatedly pass all its tests and would still drop out a little while after rebooting. Replacing it with another new Sammy fixed the problem. Fortunately, I was able to return to the vendor for a new replacement.

@ zpoison Where did you buy the drive?
 

My Computer

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Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
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Intel i7-3930K
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MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
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Asus Xonar Essence STX
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3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
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1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
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Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
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Logitech M525 (two in use)
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=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
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AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
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IE11
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LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Maybe consider purchasing a brand new HD from a local computer source, cloning the refurbished onto the new HD, using the new HD as the internal HD, after formatting the refurbished HD, using it as an external backup HD.
 

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desktop 16GB; 1 Acer 8GB & 1 Acer 16GB
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1TB split into 2 equal partitions [OS and data] usable by RJS
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@ zpoison Where did you buy the drive?
I received them less than one week ago from ebay


I got 11 X 6tb drives from the same seller, bought from him and had one hdd that died after 4 days of being plugged - to a external enclosure ( I believe its my fault because I "think" I accidentally unplugged it while transfering things onto it)

I've lost more than 4tb of music that time
The seller agreed to send me another one for free

Still have the dead hdd, I will return it to the manufacturer I guess

Will keep a look at Crystal Disk Info for monitoring and all that (I also have hdtune pro)

------------

Cannot plug them all at once for backup because my mobo is from 2009-2010 (4 sata ports + one optical sata port that I use for a hdd instead)

Maybe it would be better to sell 4-5 of the HDD to buy a expensive PC(800$+) to plug more HDD.
or a NAS maybe
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I received them less than one week ago from ebay


I got 11 X 6tb drives from the same seller, bought from him and had one hdd that died after 4 days of being plugged - to a external enclosure ( I believe its my fault because I "think" I accidentally unplugged it while transfering things onto it)

I've lost more than 4tb of music that time
The seller agreed to send me another one for free

Still have the dead hdd, I will return it to the manufacturer I guess

Will keep a look at Crystal Disk Info for monitoring and all that (I also have hdtune pro)

------------

Cannot plug them all at once for backup because my mobo is from 2009-2010 (4 sata ports + one optical sata port that I use for a hdd instead)

Maybe it would be better to sell 4-5 of the HDD to buy a expensive PC(800$+) to plug more HDD.
or a NAS maybe

I asked where, not when.

Unplugging a drive while still transferring data normally will cause data loss, not drive death. Reformatting a drive after that should bring it back (sans data, of course).

Generally speaking, you don't want to plug in all your backup drives all at once. In fact you shouldn't have all of them at home at the same time. For data to be reasonably safe, it needs to exist in three places. For most people, that means on the computer, on an onsite backup, and on an offsite backup.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Had my HDDs on ebay, the seller live in the US

I have like 6 X 6tb that are almost full

Online backup of 40tb would cost a lot I guess, but it would be nice
That dead HDD I mentionned, it just died , it stopped spinning
Maybe I will try to restore the files in it when it will be returned back from WD
 
Last edited:

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I would trust Flea Bay HDDs only as far as I can spit upwind. Even though it would cost more, you would be much better off buying new drives with a decent warranty. The drives you bought have probably been around the block God only knows how many times and may not have much life left.

I said onsite, not online. An onsite backup, in this case, means a backup on a HDD that is kept at home. The offsite backup would be a HDD that is kept off your property, such as in a locked drawer or locker at school or work, at a trusted friend's or relative's house, or in a safe deposit box at a bank or credit union.

The best backups for data drives (not the OS and programs) is a duplicate of the drive. The best software for that are folder/file syncing programs. My personal choice is a free program called FreeFileSync. When set to Mirror mode, it will compare the source drive with the backup drive. It then will copy any new or changed folders and files from the source drive to the backup drive and delete any folders and files not on the source drive from the backup drive. FreeFileSync also has provision called Versioning that, if you choose (and I recommend it), will send folders and files deleted from the backup drive to a folder or drive that you designate. That will protect your data from accidental deletions and also allow you to retrieve earlier versions of files.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Thank you very much
Are you aware if there is a way(a software or something) I could create a "picture copy" of my folders, without having to do a printscreen for everything
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Thank you very much
Are you aware if there is a way(a software or something) I could create a "picture copy" of my folders, without having to do a printscreen for everything

Not off the top of my head. However, you wouldn't need a list of your folders if you have a backup of the drive.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Yes but backing up 40tb is very expensive

compared to backing only pictures or text of the folders

I think I'm gonna have to do it manually (printscreen)

maybe I could open a new thread and ask for this? in case someone would know how to do it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Thank you very much
Are you aware if there is a way(a software or something) I could create a "picture copy" of my folders, without having to do a printscreen for everything

freeware foldersreport

http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/folrep.html

> view > tree mode

then select all lines you want to save

> view > create html report

will create an html file of all your folders
 

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diy
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Win7 pro x64
CPU
stock i7 7700k
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z270N-WIFI mini-ITX
Memory
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz
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integrated Intel HD 630
Sound Card
onboard Realtek ALC1220
Monitor(s) Displays
two vertically mounted samsung 55" 4k un55mu8000
Screen Resolution
1920x1280
Hard Drives
256GB Samsung EVO 960 M.2 pci-e NVMe SSD
PSU
SilverStone Nightjar ST45NF 450Watt Fanless
Case
No case. Motherboard is mounted directly onto power supply
Cooling
Evercool low profile 815EP with Panaflow 12L fan at 7v
Keyboard
Ortek MCK-86 mini
Mouse
Belkin 5-button USB
Internet Speed
spectrum 400mbps
Yes but backing up 40tb is very expensive

compared to backing only pictures or text of the folders

I think I'm gonna have to do it manually (printscreen)

maybe I could open a new thread and ask for this? in case someone would know how to do it.

Merely storing 40TB is expensive. It's like owning a car. Why spend x amount on a car if you can't afford to maintain it?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
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