Keeps shutting down

RoWin7

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One of my other machines, also a Win7Ult, keeps shutting down. The power button lights up, it runs 10 or 20 seconds, then shuts off. It won't restart for a while, then repeats. Is this a power supply problem, or are there other things I can test? It happened after I put in a new graphics card, but I don't know if it's a coincidence.

I've checked all the connections.
I've already tried putting in a new power cord.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
It would suggest heat and it wont restart until it cools down a new card can have brought more heat. Check all heatsyncs etc for dust blockage tun with case open see if tha cures it to prove it heat
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
win 8 32 bit
The case is open, the card has a fan and everything inside is clean. Now it won't start at all.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
I nailed it. When I wiggle the cord plug, the juice comes back on, then off, then on, and it happens with 2 cords. Can you recommend a medium-priced PSU from MicroCenter? They're near me and I shop there. I need just average wattage--one HD + DVD player and I don't game.
Pentium G620
PEGATRON Mobo 2AC2 2.00
Wattage calculator estimates 221 Watts.

psu : Computer Parts : Micro Center
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
Just get a 350W - 400W PSU that is Bronze certified, with a 4pin+4pin PSU connector. Don't worry about modular PSU's, unless you are concerned with cabling around the case.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 x64, Vista x64, 8.1 smartphone
CPU
Intel E8400 65W 64-bit
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3LR
Memory
DDR2 2 x 2GB, 1GB x 2
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD5750
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio; Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
iiyama prolite X2377HDS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
500GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3500413AS 16MB, 500GB 5400 rpm Toshiba MQ02ABF050H 32MB, 200GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3200820AS 8MB, 2TB 7200 rpm Western Digital WD20EZRX 64MB
PSU
Enermax Liberty Modular
Case
Antec P193 Midi Tower
Keyboard
Mionix ZIBAL 60
Mouse
Razer USB 2.0 Diamondback Mouse or Huion Graphics Tablet
Browser
Internet Explorer, Lunascape, Firefox, Opera, Avast Safezone
Many thanks. Just want to be sure: I tested it by bypassing the power switch by shorting green and black on the PSU. Is there a way to isolate and test the power switch too?

Did you mean "20+4 pin" connector? Hardware isn't my high point.

What does Bronze-certified mean, and will it be marked on the package?
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
Many thanks. Just want to be sure: When I bypass the power switch by shorting green and black on the PSU, it runs for about half a second. Is there a way to isolate and test the power switch too?
Not too sure what you are doing. You can short those pins on the motherboard. Shorting on the PSU is difficult without damaging the connector. To isolate the power switch, you would need be inside the PSU itself, if I've pictured what you are doing.
*** CAREFUL when accessing Live Voltages. Always switch off Mains and ***
*** Double check that you have done so before touching anything. ****
Did you mean "20+4 pin" connector? Hardware isn't my high point.
No. The 20+4 pin connector is for the motherboard power supply. The 4pin+4pin is the CPU supply.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 x64, Vista x64, 8.1 smartphone
CPU
Intel E8400 65W 64-bit
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3LR
Memory
DDR2 2 x 2GB, 1GB x 2
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD5750
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio; Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
iiyama prolite X2377HDS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
500GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3500413AS 16MB, 500GB 5400 rpm Toshiba MQ02ABF050H 32MB, 200GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3200820AS 8MB, 2TB 7200 rpm Western Digital WD20EZRX 64MB
PSU
Enermax Liberty Modular
Case
Antec P193 Midi Tower
Keyboard
Mionix ZIBAL 60
Mouse
Razer USB 2.0 Diamondback Mouse or Huion Graphics Tablet
Browser
Internet Explorer, Lunascape, Firefox, Opera, Avast Safezone
NVM testing the power-switch. I'll know soon.

I shorted the power connector because I have no contacts on the mobo marked "Power SW." There's 1 set marked "front panel" but it has 4 contacts, and they're not labeled. I used a bent insulated wire and didn't touch anything with my fingers.

I was following a YT video.
How To Test Your Power Supply With A Paperclip - YouTube at 1:59.

None of my usual gurus are leaving the house, so I've been on my own for 4 months, which is how long the machine's been sitting. It had been my primary machine.

What's Bronze-certified?
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
Installed new PSU, except I don't know what to do with the cord marked PCI-E with 6 holes. The display card has its own fan.

Same problem. All 3 fans run about 10 seconds, then stop. I wait 15 minutes, then I can run it again, it stops. No beep codes. Then it doesn't run at all.

Case is open, no dust buildup or heat.
Re-seated the cards, check internal wires, no puffy capacitors.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
Same problem. All 3 fans run about 10 seconds, then stop. I wait 15 minutes, then I can run it again, it stops. No beep codes. Then it doesn't run at all.

I had same problem once. What I did was to change the BIOS fan controller settings from PWM to analogue, and the fans worked properly again. Not sure if that option is available on PEGATRON Mobo 2AC2 2.00.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 x64, Vista x64, 8.1 smartphone
CPU
Intel E8400 65W 64-bit
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3LR
Memory
DDR2 2 x 2GB, 1GB x 2
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD5750
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio; Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
iiyama prolite X2377HDS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
500GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3500413AS 16MB, 500GB 5400 rpm Toshiba MQ02ABF050H 32MB, 200GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3200820AS 8MB, 2TB 7200 rpm Western Digital WD20EZRX 64MB
PSU
Enermax Liberty Modular
Case
Antec P193 Midi Tower
Keyboard
Mionix ZIBAL 60
Mouse
Razer USB 2.0 Diamondback Mouse or Huion Graphics Tablet
Browser
Internet Explorer, Lunascape, Firefox, Opera, Avast Safezone
It doesn't run long enough to get into the BIOS or to display anything or do a beep code.
1-- Can you change the fan settings manually without getting into the BIOS?

2--Is this a clue? It happened after I put in a new graphics card, and never ran normally again. Too much of a coincidence? I thought I had loosened up something, but I hadn't. I didn't get a chance to tell the BIOS to stop using the onboard graphics and use the new card instead.

3--I've figured out the power switch connections, and shorted them. I get the same results: starts for 10-20 seconds, stops, then again, then does nothing for a while. So we know the power button and PSU aren't involved here.

fkdMRZwn
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
Fans should run at full speed until BIOS POST has finished, I don't think you can adjust that unless you use an external fan controller to set the fan speeds.
It may well be that you loosened something while installing a new graphics card, but if a wire had worked loose, then you would expect it (the fan) not to work altogether, not even for 10-20 seconds. Check your computer's wiring anyway, and especially remove tufts of dust, should you find any.
You could of course remove the graphics card completely, and then check to see if the fans run for longer on next boot-up.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 7 x64, Vista x64, 8.1 smartphone
CPU
Intel E8400 65W 64-bit
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3LR
Memory
DDR2 2 x 2GB, 1GB x 2
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD5750
Sound Card
AMD High Definition Audio; Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
iiyama prolite X2377HDS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
500GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3500413AS 16MB, 500GB 5400 rpm Toshiba MQ02ABF050H 32MB, 200GB 7200 rpm Seagate ST3200820AS 8MB, 2TB 7200 rpm Western Digital WD20EZRX 64MB
PSU
Enermax Liberty Modular
Case
Antec P193 Midi Tower
Keyboard
Mionix ZIBAL 60
Mouse
Razer USB 2.0 Diamondback Mouse or Huion Graphics Tablet
Browser
Internet Explorer, Lunascape, Firefox, Opera, Avast Safezone
Doesn't run at all now, with or without the video card. Also tried popping and reinserting the CMOS battery.
No tufts of dust, I had cleaned it recently. No loose wires visible.
Whatever is wrong isn't visible.

Thanks for your time :-), going to give up on this. I have 2 others.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP p6-2020t
OS
Win 7 Ult 64-bit
CPU
G620 2.6GHZ Pentium R
Memory
6 GB
Monitor(s) Displays
25" HPLV2311
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
1 SATA, 1 exterior SATA
Case
HP
Cooling
PSU
Antivirus
Glasswire
Browser
Waterfox; Firefox; Chrome for work
Other Info
Firewall--Glasswire
Similar specs in Gateway DX4200
Verizon FIOS Wired network

1 other Win7 computer-- has SSD
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