Laptop fan goes up, then down, then up, then down . . .

betelgeuse4721

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Hey all,

I have a 3 month old Sager NP8130:
2nd Generation Intel® Core™ i7-2720QM, 2.2-3.3GHz
8gb RAM
500gb 7200rpm,
nVidia GeForce GTX 560M 1,536MB
IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU

BUT, about a week ago, I noticed that the cooling fan kicks in for a good 10 seconds, then relaxes for about 5 seconds, then back up, then back down - a constant cyclic process.

Any ideas? I've tried the basic troubleshooting of running system scans, restarting, powering off, etc.

Thanks,
Brady
 

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Windows 7
OS
Windows 7
Hi,

I would recommend you to update the BIOS first of all.
 

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AMD Phenom ii X4 960T Black Edition
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Asus M4
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4Gb DDR 3
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ATI Radeon HD6870 (Sapphire)
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23Inch AOC LED monitor
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WD 1 TB
PSU
Coolermaster 460W
You may want to download Coretemp64 or realtemp to keep an eye on the CPU temps. see if you can determine at what temp the fan starts and the temp it cuts off. It may give you an idea whether the fan is doing what it is designed to do or whether it is malfunctioning. It can also give you needed info if you call the manufacturer.
 

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When is the last time you blew the dust out of that thing?


 

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Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1i7-3820GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GBEVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
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EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
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On board Realtek ALC898
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Acer S271HL
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#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
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Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
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Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
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MS KC-0405
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Intellimouse 5-button
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56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
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Avast & Malwarebytes
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Firefox
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You say it's only 3 months old (& probably still in warranty?) so if it was me I wouldn't be flashing a BIOS for this stage. Also, I wouldn't expect dirt and dust to accumulate badly in 3 months...but who knows.

I'd have a look in the BIOS or any fan control program that came with the PC. My ASUS motherboard has a brickwall fan control option called "Stable" which cycles the CPU fan from 50% to 100% at a specific temperature. I can't say I'd ever use it but sounds similar to what you are hearing.
 

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Own build
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Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
CPU
Intel i7 2600k
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Seasonic M12II 520W
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Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
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Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
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Logitech MK520 (wireless)
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Logitech MK520
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Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
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Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
Hey guys, thanks for the responses. I'll try the ideas you all had and post back. Thanks!!
 

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Windows 7
OS
Windows 7
****UPDATE GENTLEMEN - I did everything you guys suggested but still no luck.

However, when she is running on battery alone, there is NO fluctuation in the fan.

When she is plugged in, she goes UP and DOWN like it's her business.

Any ideas now?

Thanks,
Brady
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7
OS
Windows 7
One thing that comes to mind:

On laptops with dedicated graphics and an Intel i-series mobile processor there is "switchable graphics" capability. When on battery power the system will switch automatically to the low power Intel graphic engine contained on the i7 Sandy Bridge chip. When plugged in the system will switch to the dedicated nVidia graphics chip (if you are doing something that requires more processing power).

So my guess is that the issue has something to do with your graphics system.
The first question is "are you doing anything notable that results in this behavior (like playing a video game), or does it occur immediately and constantly? You are looking for clues.

If constant it brings to mind issues people have with certain graphics drivers that have caused these kinds of overheating/fan issues. Updating or rolling back the driver was shown to correct the problem. Something you might consider.

A word of caution: These switchable graphics systems often use a "tandem" driver package available only on the laptop manufacturer's website. These contain both the Intel and nVidia drivers together. People have screwed their systems up when trying to install a stand alone driver from nVidia alone. So check and be sure of what you can and can't do. And most certainly create a System Restore Point before attempting any changes.

You could also play with your W7 power settings. Go to Control Panel > Power Options and in the left column choose " Create a Power Plan". Then use the new plan to change settings to see if they have any effect.

Hope that helps.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1i7-3820GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GBEVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
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