Mechanical Keyboards - Are you a convert?

Do you use a mechanical Keyboard?


  • Total voters
    18

Smarteyeball:

Thanks for those examples.

For the last 3 or 4 hours, I have been looking around, particularly at geekhack.org, which seems to be ground zero for the keyboard-obsessed. Forums, reviews, classifieds, ranting, the whole enchilada.

The most common recommendation seems to be, for a non-gaming complete newcomer:

IBM Model M or its clones (Unicomp) using buckling spring technology. These are a bit noisy and require a relatively heavy touch. Can be tiring if you type for hours on end.

Any keyboard using Cherry Blue switches. These tend to require a medium touch and are not as noisy as the IBM M. Maybe less tiring if you type constantly.

Some lingo:

A linear switch (eg: Cherry MX Black or Cherry Red) is like a doorbell - smooth travel with no bump; non-tactile, non-clicky. Cherry black and red have the easiest touch of the cherries. Ordinary "rubber dome" keyboards are all linear as far as I can tell.

A tactile switch (eg: Cherry MX Brown or Cherry Clear, black ALPS) is like a light switch - halfway through you feel a bump and then the light comes on. Cherry browns have the lightest touch of the cherries.

A clicky AND tactile switch (eg: Cherry MX Blue or Buckling Spring) is like a Bic pen - clicks AND you feel a bump. Cherry blues have a medium touch. White ALPS switches are tactile and clicky.


Some specific recommendations under $80 or so:

New:

Unicomp clones of IBM model M; still being made. Uses buckling spring technology just like the original IBM. About $79 from Unicomp direct.

Scorpius M10: uses Cherry blue switches; around $50. Sold at Amazon. Build quality can be shaky.

Used:

IBM Model M if you can find one at Goodwill. Refurbished, they tend to go for 70 on up.

Dell AT101W: manufactured up to about 2000. Uses black ALPS switches. Clicky and tactile. Good for typists. Lighter touch than IBM Model M.

Dell AT102DW: also uses black ALPS switches. Manufactured in the 1990s and maybe later?

Compaq 11800: not too common, but cheap when found, maybe $25 on Ebay. Uses Cherry brown switches. Has somewhat odd keyboard layout (function keys).

Northgate: No longer being made, but refurbished can be found. Uses ALPS switches. Very heavy, but durable.

Most of the others are above $80. I saw some keyboards over $400.

Being a cheap SOB, I'll probably see if I can get lucky at Goodwill as even $50 is more than I am willing to risk if I can't return.
 

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Before my current generation mechanical keyboard, I preferred the Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000
mskeyboard4000full.jpg


After switching jobs and working nearly 100% from a laptop and wanting to have more deskspace at home, I switched back to a non-ergo keyboard. A while later I made the switch to a mechanical keyboard and generally prefer them now over any soft-dome keyboard.
That's my keyboard, the only problem is that it's a USB connection rather than PS/2 which my others are and which I'd prefer so releasing one of the back USB ports.
 

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^ I have 4 of those keyboards.
 

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I love it it's so comfortable to use. Trouble is though that my pull out shelf under my desk for the keyboard is not really big enough for it. It fills the width and I have to have it pulled right out with the keyboard over the front edge to be able to see the top buttons, which means I have to have the mouse on the desk so I don't have the keyboard pulled right out much so I can reach the mouse. :rolleyes:
 

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I moved away from using it because it just consumes so much desk space. i don't need or use the extra multimedia buttons. So, I went with a much more compact mechanical keyboard that has a much smaller physical footprint.
 

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Windows and Linux enthusiast. Logitech G35 Headset.
I have always used the Logitech MX5000 wireless keyboard and mouse.

I like them so much I have purchsed a bunch of them (new in the box) and replace them whenever they wear out.

And I gone through a few over the years.

Fabe
 

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The scissor style is neither the rubber dome membrane, or a mechanical keyboard. It's kinda right in the middle.

I played a bit with those keyboards before I bought my recent keyboard and liked them a fair amount.
 

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Self-Built in July 2009
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Windows 7 Ultimate x64
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Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz
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Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R rev. 1.1, F12 BIOS
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Smarteyeball:

Thanks for those examples.

For the last 3 or 4 hours, I have been looking around, particularly at geekhack.org, which seems to be ground zero for the keyboard-obsessed. Forums, reviews, classifieds, ranting, the whole enchilada.

You're welcome mate. They were just some example of brands that are pretty easy to find at most online retailers. They're also the 'cheaper, but better build quality' than other brands.



And yes geekhack.org is indeed the groundzero for the mech enthusiast :)

The most common recommendation seems to be, for a non-gaming complete newcomer:

IBM Model M or its clones (Unicomp) using buckling spring technology. These are a bit noisy and require a relatively heavy touch. Can be tiring if you type for hours on end.

I didn't mention buckling springs as these are generally harder to come by, especially the Model M. They tend to pop up on ebay now and then but with a price tag to match. Some of the of the oldest models also require an AT to PS/2/adapter. Obtaining a Unicomp or other clone is only marginally easier.

(Clones and Alp switch boards are rare as hens teeth here in Aus)

I didn't mention Alp switches because of the availability factor as well.




Any keyboard using Cherry Blue switches. These tend to require a medium touch and are not as noisy as the IBM M. Maybe less tiring if you type constantly.

For strength actuation of model M's, the MX Blacks are probably the closest in 'feel' to the weight required. (Which is hard to compare if ones never used an MX Black ;) )

I concentrated on Cherry switches from an availability/range point of view - the vast majority of 'major brands' offer a Blue Switch model.

As for the noise - some people are bothered by the noise, others think they might be. It's entirely personal preference. Personally I love the sound of them and so too does my partner. She loves hearing me type on my mech boards.

However, if the sound really is something that bothers users (or co-workers for example) - there are o-ring dampeners/landing pads available. They are placed under the keycap and stop keys from bottoming out, thus eliminating the 'clack' sound.

One downside is that they do create a bit more resistance which requires more effort to key presses.







Ordinary "rubber dome" keyboards are all linear as far as I can tell
.

True. Even scissor switches are linear.


A


Some specific recommendations under $80 or so:

New:

Unicomp clones of IBM model M; still being made. Uses buckling spring technology just like the original IBM. About $79 from Unicomp direct.

Hmm. That might be worth looking into ;)


Being a cheap SOB, I'll probably see if I can get lucky at Goodwill as even $50 is more than I am willing to risk if I can't return.


To grab a Model M for cheap, goodwill-esque stores are indeed your best bet for that. (same applies to older Alp switch/used Duckys, leo, Flcos Das etc).

Even if you keep your eye out on ebay, or craigslist etc for 2nd hand boards.

If you do stumble on something that catches your eye and would like a second opinion, I'd be more than happy to do so if you wish.




Basically I'm not saying mech keyboards are a must have for everyone.

I'm simply letting those who've never heard them know that they exist and for some, are definitely worth a look and could potentially be a big improvement over what they currently have, or are thinking of buying.

(I wish someone told me about them before spent $150 on a Saitek Cyborg Commando 'gaming keyboard' a few years ago. My god that was an expensive POS :p )
 

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I'm trying to resist this keyboard.

It's a brand new IBM Model M clone with buckling springs made by Unicomp. This sells for only $59 plus shipping in the USA and is the least expensive way to get a high quality mechanical keyboard experience.

Unicomp clones normally sell for 79 plus shipping, but these particular models were made as a promotion for the University of Kentucky.

Here's an unboxing on youtube:

A "Rather Unique" Model M Keyboard - YouTube

Here's the link at Unicomp:

Unicomp, Inc. Kentucky Wildcats Buckling Spring PS2 Keyboard

Here is a long review thread at geekhack with more pictures:


Unicomp Wildcat Keyboard Unboxing

Whaddya think, Smarteyeball??

I'd kinda like to run down an IBM buckling spring Space Saver without the ten key section, but those aren't easily found and would likely not be in "new" condition.
 

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Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bitIntel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)none; graphics are integrated on CPU
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AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
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none; graphics are integrated on CPU
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System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
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Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
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Antec Solo II
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Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
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Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
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Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
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Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
I have an IBM Model M keyboard that I got with an IBM computer in 1986. I have carried it forward to every new computer I've had since. It has been in daily use for the past 26 years and still works as if brand new. Try that with a rubber dome keyboard!

Many (myself included) consider the IBM Model M to be the best keyboard ever made.
 

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Corsair CX 750M
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IBM Model M - used continuously since 1986
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Microsoft Pro IntelliMouse
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400M down 8M up
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Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
I have an IBM Model M keyboard that I got with an IBM computer in 1986. I have carried it forward to every new computer I've had since. It has been in daily use for the past 26 years and still works as if brand new. Try that with a rubber dome keyboard!

Many (myself included) consider the IBM Model M to be the best keyboard ever made.

Strollin':

I assume you have the PS2 interface?

Couple of questions:

Have you had any issues using it with an ordinary PS2/USB converter to a USB port?

I've got a PS2 motherboard now, but I expect PS2 to eventually disappear on motherboards.

I've heard of some difficulty with the converters, but not necessarily with the Model M.

Are you still using the original 26 year old non-detachable cable? Are they repairable/replaceable at a reasonable cost or would you just get a new keyboard if the cable died?
 

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Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bitIntel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Computer type
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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
I have an IBM Model M keyboard that I got with an IBM computer in 1986. I have carried it forward to every new computer I've had since. It has been in daily use for the past 26 years and still works as if brand new. Try that with a rubber dome keyboard!

Many (myself included) consider the IBM Model M to be the best keyboard ever made.

Strollin':

I assume you have the PS2 interface?

Couple of questions:

Have you had any issues using it with an ordinary PS2/USB converter to a USB port?

I've got a PS2 motherboard now, but I expect PS2 to eventually disappear on motherboards.

I've heard of some difficulty with the converters, but not necessarily with the Model M.

Are you still using the original 26 year old non-detachable cable? Are they repairable/replaceable at a reasonable cost or would you just get a new keyboard if the cable died?
I use the original cable which has the the large Din connector. I then have an adapter to adapt that to a PS2 connection and another adapter to adapt that to USB since my current computer does not have a PS2 port. It works great, no issues whatsoever.

The cable on the Model M is heavy duty and is also detachable. I have a number of Model Ms so, if the cable died, I would be able to replace it easily. Since the cable is detachable, I suppose it's possible I could find a cable that had a PS2 end (I doubt I could find one with a USB) and eliminate one adapter but I never bothered with it as what I have works fine.

Only drawback is that the keyboard predates Windows so there is no dedicated Windows key which is why, to this day, even when I use a keyboard that has a Windows key, I never use it.

In the early days of PCs, people would contact IBM to ask if they could buy a keyboard to use with their home-built system. IBM's response was that they sold computer systems, not keyboards, so you could only get a Model M if you bought an IBM computer.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

W10 Pro desktop, W11 laptop, W11 Pro tablet (...3.7Ghz 8700K i7, i7-11800H, i7-1065G716G desktop, 16G laptop, 4G tabletAMD Radeon RX580, RTX 3060, Intel Iris Plus
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built desktop, Dell G15 5511 Gaming laptop,MS Surface Pro 7 tablet
OS
W10 Pro desktop, W11 laptop, W11 Pro tablet (all 64-bit)
CPU
3.7Ghz 8700K i7, i7-11800H, i7-1065G7
Motherboard
ASUS TUF Z370-Pro Gaming in desktop
Memory
16G desktop, 16G laptop, 4G tablet
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon RX580, RTX 3060, Intel Iris Plus
Sound Card
High Definition Audio (Built-in to mobo)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung U32J59 32" (2x), 15.6", 12"
Screen Resolution
3840x2160, 3840x2160, 1920x1080, 2160x1440
Hard Drives
500G SSD for OS; 2T, 10T & 15T HDDs for Data on Desktop, 1TB SSD laptop, 128G SSD tablet.
PSU
Corsair CX 750M
Case
Antec 100
Cooling
CM 212+
Keyboard
IBM Model M - used continuously since 1986
Mouse
Microsoft Pro IntelliMouse
Internet Speed
400M down 8M up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
Never used them but I am fine with what I have now doesn't really matter to much to me. Maybe later idk, So i'm on the unbiased side so I just voted for the don't care choice. Anyways using a Microsoft USB Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 (IntelliType Pro) Which cost me $30usd when I got it and feels good to my hands.
 

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My Computer My Computer

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Windows 10 64bitAMD Phenom II X4 925 (Deneb)(2.8GHz) OC 3.4GHzCorsair Vengeance DDR3 4GBX2 (8192MB)XFX HD 6870 1GB (OC)- 940MHz core, mem 1150MHz
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom build
OS
Windows 10 64bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 925 (Deneb)(2.8GHz) OC 3.4GHz
Motherboard
M5A78L-MLX Plus
Memory
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 4GBX2 (8192MB)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD 6870 1GB (OC)- 940MHz core, mem 1150MHz
Monitor(s) Displays
Vizio 26' 1920x1080 / Acer 1336x768
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 60Hz /1336x768
Hard Drives
Kingston Digital 60GB SSDNow V300/500gb HDD Western Digital 7200rpm (/WD 160GB HDD 7200rpm
PSU
CORSAIR CX600 600w
Case
AZZA Orion 202 EVO
Cooling
cooler master hyper TX3 cpu cooler
Keyboard
Razer DeathStalker
Mouse
Logitech Optical Gaming Mouse G400
Antivirus
Defualt on win 10
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
cpu is overclocked in bios
I was a member of the 'Don't care. A keyboard is "just a keyboard" to me' club until quite recently. I had a chance at a LAN party to spend an hour or so playing SC2 with a Razer Black Widow Ultimate.

I went out and purchased one the very next day. I absolutely love it, and will never go back to dome style boards. It uses Cherry MX Blue switches, is backlit, and is extremely responsive for both gaming, and typing.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit SP1Intel Core i7-2600k OC'd @ 5.0Ghz16 GB Corsair Vengeance PC3-12800 (4x4GB)XFX 695X DD (x2) in Crossfire
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Rig
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i7-2600k OC'd @ 5.0Ghz
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z
Memory
16 GB Corsair Vengeance PC3-12800 (4x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX 695X DD (x2) in Crossfire
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889 (Integrated)
Monitor(s) Displays
XFX Triple Monitor Display w/ 3 ASUS 23.6" LCD
Screen Resolution
5760x1080 (AMD Eyefinity)
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 SATA III (120GB)
WD Caviar Black 1.5 TB x2
PSU
XFX ProSeries Black Edition 1000w 80+ Platinum Certified
Case
Cooler Master HAF X Blue Edition
Cooling
Corsair H100 w/ Noctua NF-S12B FLX (x4) Push/Pull
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Naga & Razer Nostromo
Other Info
ASUS ROG G74SX
-240GB OCZ Vertex II x2 (Raid 0)
I thought there was an earlier post saying to stay away from the Razer Black Widow, longevity issues or something. Hopped down to the shops yesterday evening, nada :( All I could find was the usual suspects, ergonomics, and a couple of gaming keyboards. None of the brands mentioned here.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Win7 Pro x64Koa i5-2550K8 GBSapphire ATI 6870 1GB GDDR5
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-built rig
OS
Win7 Pro x64
CPU
Koa i5-2550K
Memory
8 GB
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire ATI 6870 1GB GDDR5
Sound Card
RealTek HD Audio / ATI HDMI Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung HDTV Monitor T23A350
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
- SSD (C:)
- HDD (D:)
- BD-ROM (E:)
Keyboard
Logitech G110
Internet Speed
Unifi home (5mbps)
Whaddya think, Smarteyeball??

I'd kinda like to run down an IBM buckling spring Space Saver without the ten key section, but those aren't easily found and would likely not be in "new" condition.

Great keyboard for the price - although personally the Wildcats motif isn't to my taste ;)
 

My Computer My Computer

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8 Pro x64i7 3770K 4.6GHz16GB G.Skill Trident X 2666mhzx2 EVGA 780 Ti Superclocked SLI
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Systems by SmartEyeball
OS
8 Pro x64
CPU
i7 3770K 4.6GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77 WS
Memory
16GB G.Skill Trident X 2666mhz
Graphics Card(s)
x2 EVGA 780 Ti Superclocked SLI
Sound Card
SB X-FI Surround 5.1 PRO USB / ATH-AD900 Headphones
Monitor(s) Displays
x3 Dell U2410 / 58" Samsung
Screen Resolution
5760*1200/ 1920*1200
Hard Drives
2x Intel 520 240GB (RAID 0) * 2x WD Caviar Blacks 2TB (RAID 0) * 2TB WD Caviar Black * Sony Optirac DVD
PSU
Silverstone Strider Evolution 1200W
Case
Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Topre Realforce // Ducky Shine MX Black // Filco Ninja TKL
Mouse
Thermaltake Theron (Highly Recommended) + Razer Imperator
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE, FF, WaterFox
Other Info
GT Extreme V2 Sim Racing Cockpit + 40" LCD and K/B Mouse stand ▼
Fanatec CSR Elite Wheel + Clubsport V1 Pedals + CSR shifter/7G-H ▼Saitek X52 Pro ▼ TrackIR 5 Pro
Buttkicker v2 Seat Rumbler with Dedicated 5.1 and Sub Woofer attached to frame ▼
=
Bloody Big Grin
I thought there was an earlier post saying to stay away from the Razer Black Widow, longevity issues or something. Hopped down to the shops yesterday evening, nada :( All I could find was the usual suspects, ergonomics, and a couple of gaming keyboards. None of the brands mentioned here.


I have not had any issues with the widow, but I've only owned it for a month or so.
However I do have 3 other pieces of Razer gear that are still going strong 4+ years later.

Like most here I will not purchase peripherals sight unseen. I need to get my hands on them and test the fit/feel before I spend that much cash.
 

My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit SP1Intel Core i7-2600k OC'd @ 5.0Ghz16 GB Corsair Vengeance PC3-12800 (4x4GB)XFX 695X DD (x2) in Crossfire
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Rig
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64-Bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i7-2600k OC'd @ 5.0Ghz
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus IV Extreme-Z
Memory
16 GB Corsair Vengeance PC3-12800 (4x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX 695X DD (x2) in Crossfire
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889 (Integrated)
Monitor(s) Displays
XFX Triple Monitor Display w/ 3 ASUS 23.6" LCD
Screen Resolution
5760x1080 (AMD Eyefinity)
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 SATA III (120GB)
WD Caviar Black 1.5 TB x2
PSU
XFX ProSeries Black Edition 1000w 80+ Platinum Certified
Case
Cooler Master HAF X Blue Edition
Cooling
Corsair H100 w/ Noctua NF-S12B FLX (x4) Push/Pull
Keyboard
Razer Lycosa
Mouse
Razer Naga & Razer Nostromo
Other Info
ASUS ROG G74SX
-240GB OCZ Vertex II x2 (Raid 0)
Whaddya think, Smarteyeball??

I'd kinda like to run down an IBM buckling spring Space Saver without the ten key section, but those aren't easily found and would likely not be in "new" condition.

Great keyboard for the price - although personally the Wildcats motif isn't to my taste ;)

Well---due to your instigation and my hopeless sales resistance I've ordered a Leopold Tenkeyless White, with Cherry blue switches, as shown below. It should be here tomorrow.

$89 plus $10 shipping from Elitekeyboards.com, on sale; normally $109. I guess a new model is imminent and they are discounting the current models.

I decided to not go with the Kentucky Unicomp as I have no use for the num pad and I'm not sure I would prefer that much racket.

Frankly, I am not sure if I have ever used a mechanical keyboard. I may have, in the 1990s, and not known it at the time. My fingers don't remember. If I did, it was likely a buckling spring IBM or maybe a Dell with ALPS switches.

Next task is to find a pry bar to pop off the escape key so I can replace it with the red one shown in the pic--included at no charge. I see some cave man methods mentioned at geekhack. I found a youtube video of a guy making a tool out of a large paper clip.

What I want is something with at least a medium touch. I'm not sure about the tactile feedback issue---it may be I am better off with a linear switch such as Cherry blacks, but they are supposed to be quite heavy.

I hope to not end up keyboard-obsessed like those at geekhack.org. Those guys are out of control.

Thanks for the guidance, Eyeball.
 

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My Computer My Computer

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Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bitIntel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Well---due to your instigation and my hopeless sales resistance I've ordered a Leopold Tenkeyless White, with Cherry blue switches, as shown below. It should be here tomorrow.
My coworker runs a Leopold with Cherry Blue switches and he absolutely loves it. Expect it to take a little time to get used to.

I hope to not end up keyboard-obsessed like those at geekhack.org. Those guys are out of control.
It's like anything else I guess. There are forums and places for all interests out there.

Hope you like the keyboard. I'm pretty sure that you will.
 

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7 Ultimate x64Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz8GB G.Skill PI DDR2-800, 4-4-4-12 timingsEVGA 1280MB Nvidia GeForce GTX570
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Built in July 2009
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Q9550 2.83Ghz OC'd to 3.40Ghz
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3R rev. 1.1, F12 BIOS
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI DDR2-800, 4-4-4-12 timings
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1280MB Nvidia GeForce GTX570
Sound Card
Realtek ALC899A 8 channel onboard audio
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Acer x233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Intel X25-M 80GB Gen 2 SSD
Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black, 32MB cache. WD1001FALS
PSU
Corsair 620HX modular
Case
Antec P182
Cooling
stock
Keyboard
ABS M1 Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G9 Laser Mouse
Internet Speed
15/2 cable modem
Other Info
Windows and Linux enthusiast. Logitech G35 Headset.
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