Solved R9 280x - From graphics driver crashes to BSODs..

[MrTRiot]

Hello,

I've had my R9 280x for a few years now and unfortunately it's been a lemon since I got it. It used to have video driver crashes everyone 2-3 months (crash the program and instantly recover) now it's almost a daily occurrence....and the BSODs have started too. Needless to say this has me incredibly worried...

I would like to avoid having to get a new card if at all possible so here's my extensive dump file as per the BSOD instructions.

The driver crashes happen both during light and heavy load. The BSODs happen only when running any type of remotely graphically intense game. The BSOD have happened during original start up as well as 10-20 minutes into a game.

Any would be greatly appreciated. I'm honestly at my final straw....

 

[MrTRiot]

Since posting this thread I've tried to following to less than stellar results...

-Full check disk on both HDDs
-Clean removal of all graphics drivers, and install of JUST AMD graphics driver (Crimson 16.11.4)
-Switching PCI-E slot of my Gigabyte R9 280x
-Switching ram around, ruling out every stick and every slot
-Removal of possible conflict programs (Daemon tools, Realtek, Dolby...)
-Using two separate benchmark programs (FurMark and Heaven)
-Closely watching temperatures (FurMark hit 70c once before crashing, mostly crashes almost immediately barely hitting 55c)
-Double checking PSU load (so far below the 1050w total capacity it's ridiculous)

At this point I'm very much running out of ideas. Running Memtest 86+ overnight is about the only other option I have but as I've ruled out every ram stick and slot I'm not too confident about it working.

At best I've been able to run Heaven for 60 seconds before crashing, mostly it's within 10 seconds of starting the benchmark.DX11, DX9 all crash the driver before recovering. OpenGL gives a BSOD. FurMark is unfortunately no better but it just crashes and recovers the driver.

I've also attached my most recent BSODs. I've had 2 in the past few minutes, both from Heaven running on OpenGL.

Any options or suggestions would be HUGELY appreciated...

**Heaven has been running the benchmark at 1920x1080, medium quality and 2x AA only. FurMark is 1080p benchmark**

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hello and welcome MrTriot look personally I gave AMD away a long time ago for NVidia but anyway it is not an option you say.

So my friend try this as I would really like to know what is happening with the PSU if it is that bad - being a firm believer in that people so often overlook it as a problem causation.
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO, HWiNFO32/64 - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/-
12v = 11.4 – 12.6v
5v = 4.74 – 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3.465v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Use PART A: and post screen shot of what is in my pic

 

[MrTRiot]

Here's a screenshot of HWinfo64. Everything seems to be in order and there isn't much variation in the rails.

I would also like to point out that I was able to get the video card stable but it's very much a band aid fix. After some trial and error, I got it stable by down clocking it using MSI afterburner from 1100mhz core clock to 875 mhz and the memory clock from 1500mhz down to 1000mhz. This is quite a bit lower than the stock voltages as you can see...

While this fix is very temporary it doesn't give light to what the actual problem is and more so overlooks it....

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yep well the PSU looks to be ok mate and I think the problem lies within that lemon as you call it - when it was installed and apart from a new card I really don't have suggestions.

I have had another look at your dumps and you do have some problem devices see pic. Now a quick Google on that AOD tells me it has something to do with the operation of AMD cards / graphics namely a driver.
Now the other one marked in the pic also indicates to me something wrong with the card – which by the y I am assuming you have reseated??

The BSOD dump is still showing an AMD graphics problem too can you redo the dump collection please.

Now looking for drivers only use the manufacturers site mate as the aftermarket software can be a tad sad at best

 

[axe0]

It appears your installation is counterfeit, no support may be provided until you have genuinely activated your system on a clean install.

Troubleshooting a counterfeit installation is useless as it is not known what has been modified to your system.
A counterfeit installation contains heavily modified code which causes the system to behave in unexpected ways.
For this reason, analyzing counterfeit systems is unreliable and analysts won't try it.

I recommend to install a genuine copy of Windows.
If, after you have installed a genuine copy of Windows, you still get BSOD's we'll be happy to assist you.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Hello MrTriot mate looks as if you need to buy an OEM in light of what axe has picked up. What I find odd is that the machine has never flipped up a message to say something about the system being non genuine??

So just where did the original install come from??

Now for a new install you could do one of two things buy the OEM as a package (DVD and code sticker) or buy the key and use an ISO from Heidoc.com for installation. Personally I would prefer the latter because to ISO's are "fresher" than old stock bought from somewhere - I stand to be corrected of course.

 

[MrTRiot]

Hello MrTriot mate looks as if you need to buy an OEM in light of what axe has picked up. What I find odd is that the machine has never flipped up a message to say something about the system being non genuine??

So just where did the original install come from??

Now for a new install you could do one of two things buy the OEM as a package (DVD and code sticker) or buy the key and use an ISO from Heidoc.com for installation. Personally I would prefer the latter because to ISO's are "fresher" than old stock bought from somewhere - I stand to be corrected of course.

Nope, it's never flipped a message for being non-genuine and upgrades perfectly fine. The OS actually came from an old hard drive I bought years ago, long before I put the R9 280X in it. I was running Vista at the time on a failing HDD and when I bought a used, larger HDD with Windows 7 on it I figured I might as well give it a go to see if it'd work. It did and has been used to this day. I've since mirrored the original HDD to another drive but again, long before the R9 280X was installed...

Anyways....I figured out the issue with the crashes in case you're wondering.

Essentially my card is having issues going from low power mode (300 MHz core, 150 MHz memory) to high power mode (875 MHz core, 1000 MHz memory). It doesn't seem to like jumping to what the stock voltages are, which is why they've been reduced. I've also noticed that about ~50% of the time it'll get stuck in high power mode after exiting a graphically intense application.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

The OS actually came from an old hard drive I bought years ago,

Ok now unless axe or someone says otherwise if that hard drive had Windows on it and if the OS was an OEM (or retail copy to some extent) copy the activation code would have been tied to the board in the machine that the hard drive came from. The retail copy can be used on up to about three machines but only one working machine at a time - not on two machines operating at the same time

For an example if the previous machine was a Dell and you have installed it's hard drive into your custom job your current board would still be able to use it (even if you do not know the code - explained later) - the code and get updates. But you should still have got some non genuine pop ups??
If the copy was a retail one then just maybe if the original machine was wrecked then the activation could have been transferred to your machine but unless I am terribly wrong you would have had to phone Microsoft and explain the situation..

Having said that I still think you would have had some communication from Microsoft regarding the switch over. You can of course use the validation tool to verify you have a legit copy on your machine - which just might be a good idea in any case if only for peace of mind because breaching the EULA sometimes can be quite unpleasant.

For finding the activation code you can use the two main "finders" in this Product Key Number for Windows 7 - Find and See write them down then check as per the next link.

Then see this for finding out about the copy you have Activate Windows 7 Online


Now I am not criticising you in any way and you have swapped in that hard drive in all good faith and it would be good to know if you are good to go. At worst you will have to buy a new copy or key and download the free ISO from here (if using just a key there are other ways but lets keep it simple)
Microsoft Windows and Office ISO Download Tool you then just need to make a bootable DVD or stick (I prefer the DVD method - burnt a at the very slowest speed to avoid file corruption) .

Let us know how you go.

 

[Layback Bear]

Okay MrTRiot without editing like your post #1 and #2 this tutorial completed will let you know if your system is activated properly.

Please post the log here as per the tutorial.

By Brink.

Windows Genuine and Activation Issue Posting Instructions


Jack