Rig Build

WartHog

Call me Beau
Pro User
VIP
Local time
6:20 PM
Messages
985
Location
Louisville, KY
Greetings,

I am getting ready to replace my mobo, CPU, heatsink/fan, DVD drive, and put a couple of extra fans in a different case. I am keeping my current HDs, RAM, PSU, video card, etc... The case is a mid-tower Cooler Master CM 690.

Would you all tell me just what precautions/advice you have for me? Kind of like, what to watch out for; what component to install first; how to boot it up initially; etc... Please don't think I expect y'all to do my research for me, but with all the threads/tutorials on this forum sometimes it's a little overwhelming trying to find something specific. If you have links to other threads asking these questions I'll be more than happy to read those too. I have never done a build before, and will REALLY appreciate all input and help on this. :)

I am installing:
mobo: Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GA-MA785GM-US2H AM3/AM2+/AM2 AMD 785G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
CPU: Newegg.com - AMD Athlon II X4 640 Propus 3.0GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor ADX640WFGMBOX
Heatsink/fan: Newegg.com - XIGMATEK Gaia SD1283 120mm Long Life Bearing CPU Cooler bracket included I7 i5 775 1155 AMD and dual fan push pull compatible
Case fans: Newegg.com - APEVIA CF12SL-UBL 120mm Blue LED Case Fan
DVD drive: Newegg.com - LITE-ON Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Writer LightScribe Support

Again, thanks to everyone who can give me any kind of help and direction.

Beau
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
The way I do it is

1) install the CPU, thermal paste, heatsink, RAM on the motherboard outside the case
2) install this into the case
3) install PSU
4) install hard drives, optical drives, videocards, addin cards
5) cable management from the PSU to all components

try booting the computer and it should work. If not check all connections and post back here any issues you're having if you can't figure them out.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Q6600 Quad Core at 3.0 Ghz
Motherboard
XFX Nforce 680i SLI
Memory
8GB (4x2GB) Corsair CM2X2048-6400C5
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 5770
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Samsung
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
2x1TB Seagate ST31000340AS in RAID 0
PSU
580W Mushikn HP-580
Case
Antec Nine Hundred
Cooling
Noctua CPU Cooling + 5 Case Fans
Keyboard
Logitech G15
Mouse
Logitech Optical Mouse
Internet Speed
Cable
Ryan pretty well nailed the general procedure.

Go to arcticsilver.com and look at their instructions for thermal paste application on your particular AMD processor. It varies from processor to processor.

Most connectors are keyed to only fit in the proper way.

I'm not familiar with the AMD heatsink mounting procedure, but review it beforehand. Maybe you can find a video tutorial on youtube? This is a critical part of the install, so take your time.

First thing you should do after Windows is installed is go to Windows Update and get at least the critical updates.

Then antivirus/antimalware

Then each external hardware piece, one at a time.

Your monitor and modem should just work. You may have to disconnect and reconnect the modem.

Don't worry about case fans immediately. Just get the thing up and running and then evaluate your temperatures. You may need more or fewer fans than you think.

A purist would tell you to use a wrist strap to ground yourself to avoid static discharges that might damage components. In reality, most people don't use them. I try to.

Before starting, print out a page containing all of your software serial numbers/product keys.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
You've got some good pointers so far, so I'm just going to add to them.

Anti-static precautions: are really just common sense applied. A static "shock" can take out any piece of hardware, so you want to eliminate that possibility. Don't build your computer wearing wool socks on a carpet floor! But mostly just get into the habit of grabbing the frame of the computer case deliberately to discharge any static electricity before handling any parts after you have been moving (walking) around.

Likewise for the surface you are working on. You don't want to be working on a metal table. A wooden table is best. Use heavy cardboard as a work surface under your parts. I also use the foam pads that come with the motherboard.

While you are waiting for your parts to be delivered, visit the websites of each of the manufacturers and download the most recent drivers for your components and save these on a USB stick. That makes it easy to install and/or update the drivers immediately after installing W7, found all in one place.

Take your time! Particularly on a first build. RTFMs!;) Examine the parts and connectors and read the manuals again before installing them. First time builders probably have fewer problems than experience builders for that reason - going too fast and not realizing that the way it's always been done has changed.

I don't see RAM on your list. For a first time build I strongly suggest getting RAM that is listed in the motherboard's QVL (Qualified Vendors List). W7 is real touchy when it comes to RAM configurations. I would try and avoid that adventure your first time out!

Also don't see a Hard Disk. Spinner or SSD?

More if I think of it!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
Ryan, Ignatz, and TV, I really cannot thank you all enough. AWESOME input and direction to help me complete this build without any problems. I never would have thought of all of that, like trying to find a youtube vid of the heatsink install. And saving the different specs and drivers on a USB stick. It was real nice of you all to take the time and give me some good help. Thanks again. Beau

Forgive my noobness, but will I still have to re-install Windows even though I'm not changing my HDs? BTW, I am running a Caviar 500 gig HD.

Also, I did buy a static discharge wrist strap and plan on using it. :D The RAM I have is G-Skill 2X2 gigX4 sticks.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
Hello Beau.



Yes you will still have to reinstall as the 'old' drivers won't match the 'new' H/W.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
* BFK Customs *
OS
W 7 64-bit Ultimate
CPU
Intel Q9550 Yorkfield
Motherboard
ASUS P5Q Pro
Memory
8GB Dominator 8500C5D
Graphics Card(s)
ATI : XFX 5870
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio 7-1
Monitor(s) Displays
1x 47" LCD HDMI & 3x 26" LCD HDMI
Screen Resolution
1920x1080P & 1920x1200
Hard Drives
1x 80GB Intel X25-M G2 SSD : 1x 500GB & 1x 640GB WD Caviar Black(s)
PSU
Corsair 620HX
Case
Cooler Master RC-690
Cooling
Tuniq Tower 120, 2x 140mm and 3x 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Microsoft 500
Mouse
Razer Diamondback 3G
Internet Speed
14 Mb/s
Other Info
1x Koutech 3Gb/s SATA HDD Hot Swap Rack
Thanks much Ted. BTW, I'll be calling you when I'm ready to do this. ;)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
I'll be here for you, you know that! ;)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
* BFK Customs *
OS
W 7 64-bit Ultimate
CPU
Intel Q9550 Yorkfield
Motherboard
ASUS P5Q Pro
Memory
8GB Dominator 8500C5D
Graphics Card(s)
ATI : XFX 5870
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio 7-1
Monitor(s) Displays
1x 47" LCD HDMI & 3x 26" LCD HDMI
Screen Resolution
1920x1080P & 1920x1200
Hard Drives
1x 80GB Intel X25-M G2 SSD : 1x 500GB & 1x 640GB WD Caviar Black(s)
PSU
Corsair 620HX
Case
Cooler Master RC-690
Cooling
Tuniq Tower 120, 2x 140mm and 3x 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Microsoft 500
Mouse
Razer Diamondback 3G
Internet Speed
14 Mb/s
Other Info
1x Koutech 3Gb/s SATA HDD Hot Swap Rack
Thanks Theog. GOOD reminder! :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
76~2.0
OS
Windows 7 Ult x64 - SP1/ Windows 8 Pro x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K 4.6GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-Z77X UD3H, f18
Memory
8GB (2X4GB) DDR3 1600 Corsair Vengeance CL8 1.5v
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire HD 7770 Vapor-X OC 1GB DDR5
Sound Card
Onboard VIA VT2021
Monitor(s) Displays
22" LCD Dell
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
Samsung 840Pro 128GB SSD,
Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA2 7200rpm 32MB cache, Seagate Barracuda 1TB SATA2 7200rpm 32MB cache,
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Cooler Master Storm Scout
Cooling
Corsair H80 2x12cm Noctua NF P12 , 2x14cm case fans
Keyboard
Logitech Wave
Mouse
CM Sentinel
Internet Speed
Dismal
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Opera Next
Other Info
Haswell laptop: HP Envy 17t-j, i7-4700MQ, GeForce 740M 2GB DDR3, 17.3" Full HD 1920x1080, 16GB RAM, Samsung 840 Pro 128GB, 1TB Hitachi 7200 HDD,
Desktop: eSATA ports,
External eSATA Seagate 500GB SATA2 7200rpm,
External WD USB 500GB
I have a small battery powered LED light fixture that has a clip that I put on a flexible stand. (Any light will do). Very necessary when working in the dark corners inside the case!

I also have a reading magnifying glass. Necessary for reading the nano-printing on the motherboard case connectors with old, tired eyes!

You should download and prepare a CD or USB stick with Memtest Memtest86+ - Advanced Memory Diagnostic Tool. After you get the rig all put together and fire it up and it works (of course!) you will want to give your RAM a full memory test (5 or more passes) before you install the OS. That will save a lot of head-scratching and labor later if you have received any dodgy RAM sticks.

I also run Prime95 "Stress Test" overnight to really shake out any bugs:
Prime95 (32bit) - 25.11 Download - EXTREME Overclocking
Free Software - GIMPS
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
In all likelihood you will fumble and drop some screws during the motherboard or drive installation.

Naturally, the screws will fall into some area that you can't easily retrieve them and you will cuss a bit. You gotta retrieve them--otherwise you could short something out if they are just rattling around.

To avoid this: get a smallish screwdriver with a magnetized head. The screws stick to the head of the driver and are much easier to insert into the threaded hole without being fumbled.

You may want to leave the case open for the first day or so because you will be poking around in there constantly, re-routing cables. But you can't properly evaluate temperatures until you shut the lid and run a stress test of some kind. There are a bunch of those out there. Intel has a good one.

Make sure you have a dozen or so cable ties so you can group cables together and tuck them away for orderliness and improved airflow.

Find out how many fan headers you have on the motherboard and how many of them are "PWM" controlled. PWM control is generally a good thing if it is properly implemented by your motherboard manufacturer. The fans slow down when your PC is idling and speed up automatically when you crack the throttle--if you have fans that accept PWM control.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
In all likelihood you will fumble and drop some screws during the motherboard or drive installation.

Naturally, the screws will fall into some area that you can't easily retrieve them and you will cuss a bit. You gotta retrieve them--otherwise you could short something out if they are just rattling around.

To avoid this: get a smallish screwdriver with a magnetized head. The screws stick to the head of the driver and are much easier to insert into the threaded hole without being fumbled.
Magnetized screwdrivers are a bad idea when dealing with sensitive electronics.. dip the screwdriver in machine oil instead.. it's harmless and will hold screws in place for most of the difficult-to-reach spots
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP z800
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
CPU
xeon x5680 x2
Motherboard
hp
Memory
96 GB
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia quadro FX 5800 x2
Monitor(s) Displays
HP zr30w x4
Hard Drives
4 HP SAS 600GB HDDs RAID 0
PSU
1100w
Case
ATX
Cooling
factory installed liquid cooling
I have a small battery powered LED light fixture that has a clip that I put on a flexible stand. (Any light will do). Very necessary when working in the dark corners inside the case!

I also have a reading magnifying glass. Necessary for reading the nano-printing on the motherboard case connectors with old, tired eyes!

You should download and prepare a CD or USB stick with Memtest Memtest86+ - Advanced Memory Diagnostic Tool. After you get the rig all put together and fire it up and it works (of course!) you will want to give your RAM a full memory test (5 or more passes) before you install the OS. That will save a lot of head-scratching and labor later if you have received any dodgy RAM sticks.

I also run Prime95 "Stress Test" overnight to really shake out any bugs:
Prime95 (32bit) - 25.11 Download - EXTREME Overclocking
Free Software - GIMPS

Got the memtest 86+ already. I'll definitely do that and the stress test. :thumbsup:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
In all likelihood you will fumble and drop some screws during the motherboard or drive installation.

Naturally, the screws will fall into some area that you can't easily retrieve them and you will cuss a bit. You gotta retrieve them--otherwise you could short something out if they are just rattling around.

To avoid this: get a smallish screwdriver with a magnetized head. The screws stick to the head of the driver and are much easier to insert into the threaded hole without being fumbled.

You may want to leave the case open for the first day or so because you will be poking around in there constantly, re-routing cables. But you can't properly evaluate temperatures until you shut the lid and run a stress test of some kind. There are a bunch of those out there. Intel has a good one.

Make sure you have a dozen or so cable ties so you can group cables together and tuck them away for orderliness and improved airflow.

Find out how many fan headers you have on the motherboard and how many of them are "PWM" controlled. PWM control is generally a good thing if it is properly implemented by your motherboard manufacturer. The fans slow down when your PC is idling and speed up automatically when you crack the throttle--if you have fans that accept PWM control.

Wow, you all are giving me some GREAT stuff here!!! I'll ck the specs on the mobo and see what I'm getting. I've already dropped the screws for the video card swapping the hard drives a couple more times than I care to admit. :doh:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
In all likelihood you will fumble and drop some screws during the motherboard or drive installation.

Naturally, the screws will fall into some area that you can't easily retrieve them and you will cuss a bit. You gotta retrieve them--otherwise you could short something out if they are just rattling around.

To avoid this: get a smallish screwdriver with a magnetized head. The screws stick to the head of the driver and are much easier to insert into the threaded hole without being fumbled.
Magnetized screwdrivers are a bad idea when dealing with sensitive electronics.. dip the screwdriver in machine oil instead.. it's harmless and will hold screws in place for most of the difficult-to-reach spots

Thanks MadHacker. Don't wanna take any chances. :cool:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
The 1st thing I did after getting windows updates and AV and drivers, necessary programs, etc. installed, was make a complete system image. I used Acronis True Image, but Macrium, or even the built in imaging should work. This gives you a nice, clean image should you ever want to reinstall. Obviously I recommend making system images regularly as it can (and will) save your bacon when/if something goes wrong. The new, clean image is much preferable to a clean install for time savings as well. No matter what, I suggest a 2nd HDD (either internal or external), and complete system images. Great peace of mind and insurance against issues whether self inflicted, or out of your control. A Guy
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Home x64
CPU
INTEL Core i5-750 Quad-Core 3.37GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P7P55D
Memory
HyperX Fury Black Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Superclocked 1GB 128-Bit GDDR5
Monitor(s) Displays
LG 32MA68HY 32" IPS
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Evo 120GB, SEAGATE 500GB Barracuda® 7200.12, SATA 3 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 16MB cache
PSU
ANTEC TruePower New TP-550, 80 PLUS, 550W
Case
ANTEC Three Hundred Illusion
Cooling
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, 4 x 120mm 1 x 140mm Noctua's
Internet Speed
85 + Mbps
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Vivaldi
Guy, GOOD advice. Thank you very much! :)
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
"WartHog Wonder"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4, 945, Quad Core, 3.0 GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H
Memory
8GB G.Skill PI Black PC2 6400 * 4-4-4-12 @1.9v
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA 512MB 9600GT
Sound Card
Realtek ALC889A Chipset (onboard)
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x 22" Hans-G LCD
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
Hard Drives
650GB 7200RPM WD Caviar Black
PSU
OCZ 700w GameXstream
Case
Cooler Master CM 690 Midtower
Cooling
Xigmatek Gaia SD1283 CPU Cooler, Assorted 120mm case fans
Keyboard
Dell SK-8115
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Optical Mouse 3000
Other Info
Liteon iHAS 424-98B 24x DVD/CD Writer
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