Rebuilding my PC Question?.

bluesjunior

New member
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As the GPU in my 5-6yr old desktop PC is showing signs of degradation I thought perhaps I could just replace it and therefore keep my costs to a minimum but after the replies I got from my previous thread I decided it may be better just to try another solution altogether. There is nothing wrong with the SSD, HDD, Optical DVD ROM drive or the power source in my present PC. If I bought a new modern motherboard, CPU and GPU would this be feasible?. I did some searching on the Ebuyer site and came up with the following.
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Would these components be compatible and if so would I have to reinstall my copy of Windows 7 or would it be a matter of plug and play so to speak?.

My present PC spec is as follows.
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3 Rev 1.4
CPU: AMD Athlon II X3 450 Processor
RAM: OCZ 8GB (4x2GB) DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 5750 1GB GDDR5
Optical Drive: LG GH22LS50 22x DVD±RW DL LightScribe SATA
PSU: Corsair 430W CX PSU 4x SATA 1x PCI-E
Storage:
Main Drive: Samsung SSD 850 EVO 120GB ATA
Back Up HDD: Samsung Spin Point F3 500GB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 16MB Cache
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP1
CPU
AMD Athlon II X3 450
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3
Memory
8.00GB Dual Channel DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 5750
Hard Drives
465GB SAMSUNG HD502HJ SATA Disk Device
931GB BUFFALO External HDD USB Device
Antivirus
Comodo CIS
Browser
Pale Moon 64bit
With a 5 to 6 year old power supply it is time for a new (higher powered) power supply too. Consider a modular type as it eliminates the clutter of unused cables.

I just built a new system. I reused my SSD's, hard drives and optical drives. I also reused by case as it had been replaced about a year ago.

New Motherboard, CPU, memory and power supply at a minimum. Your graphics requirements will determine what, if any, video card is needed. My new system is used primarily for my recording studio and the Intel graphics (in the CPU) are more than adequate for that.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
My Own Build
OS
Windows 10 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7 6700K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero
Memory
16GB Corsair Dominator
Graphics Card(s)
Intel CPU Graphics
Sound Card
RealTek
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Dell S2719dgf
Screen Resolution
2560X1440
Hard Drives
1 TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Pro
500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Insider
2 TB drive for backup
PSU
EVGA Supernova 750G2
Case
BeQuiet Silent Base 600
Cooling
Deepcool Captain 120EX
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless 2000
Mouse
Microsoft wireless
Internet Speed
100 MB/sec (Cable)
Antivirus
Microsoft Defender and Malwarebytes
Browser
Edge/Firefox
Other Info
Cakewalk (Sonar) by BandLab and Studio One 4.1 Pro recording studio software. MOTU 896Mk3 Hybrid recording interface, Frontier Tranzport wireless control unit, Behringer X-Touch Control Surface.
Five USB connected optical drives for CD Audio production using Nero BurningROM
Firstly, thanks for the reply. Although 5-6yrs old the PSU in it at present is more than capable to drive everything. When I built the PC I used the Antec power supply calculator and it advised a 300W PSU and as I am careful with my gear regularly cleaning fans etc the Corsair 430W CX PSU 4x SATA 1x PCI-E is still okay I reckon. Unfortunately the Antec site is no longer available at the shortcut I kept but I found another one and the new parts require 310W. I understand your recommendation of a new PSU but I can always add it if and when the Corsair dies and I am trying to keep costs down. Do you reckon that the parts I listed are a good match or would you have a better solution for that price?.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit SP1
CPU
AMD Athlon II X3 450
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-MA770T-UD3
Memory
8.00GB Dual Channel DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 5750
Hard Drives
465GB SAMSUNG HD502HJ SATA Disk Device
931GB BUFFALO External HDD USB Device
Antivirus
Comodo CIS
Browser
Pale Moon 64bit
If the power supply dies it can damage electronic parts. Although you want to keep costs down, reusing a 5 or 6 year old power supply is not a wise decision.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
My Own Build
OS
Windows 10 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7 6700K
Motherboard
ASUS ROG Maximus VIII Hero
Memory
16GB Corsair Dominator
Graphics Card(s)
Intel CPU Graphics
Sound Card
RealTek
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Dell S2719dgf
Screen Resolution
2560X1440
Hard Drives
1 TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Pro
500GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD for Win 10 Insider
2 TB drive for backup
PSU
EVGA Supernova 750G2
Case
BeQuiet Silent Base 600
Cooling
Deepcool Captain 120EX
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless 2000
Mouse
Microsoft wireless
Internet Speed
100 MB/sec (Cable)
Antivirus
Microsoft Defender and Malwarebytes
Browser
Edge/Firefox
Other Info
Cakewalk (Sonar) by BandLab and Studio One 4.1 Pro recording studio software. MOTU 896Mk3 Hybrid recording interface, Frontier Tranzport wireless control unit, Behringer X-Touch Control Surface.
Five USB connected optical drives for CD Audio production using Nero BurningROM
My thoughts.

When one uses just the minimum wattage power supply (300w min. requirement) for a system that only requires a (300w power supply); that power supply is working very hard (75 to 100%) all the time to keep up with the system demand. This creates noise from the fan and lots of heat and a higher wear and tare factor.

Same system with a 600w power supply, will work at about 50% to keep up with the demand of the same system.

A low cost minimum power supply working at close to 100% will most likely put out a very dirty signal. Otherwise you volts and amps will not be clean and constant.

A power supply is the last place to skimp on. Everything in the computer requires a proper power supply. A power supply is the roots of every computer.

Jack

Jack
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Replace the PSU! Using one that old is just begging to fry your other computer components if (more like when) it blows. A good new one (not an el cheapo; those are as bad as using an antique) isn't all that expensive. Frankly, it would be stupid to spend all that money on new computer components, then use an old PSU to power them. That would be like buying a new car and running old, bald tires on it (only worse).
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom assembled by me :}
OS
Win-7-Pro64bit 7-H-Prem-64bit
CPU
i7-5930K 2nd i9-9940x both water blocked VRM's too
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH X99 2nd ASUS x299 Apex
Memory
Trident-z 3200C14 2nd Trident-z 3600C16
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1080ti ftw3 2nd Titan Xp both water blocked
Sound Card
Built-in Realtek
Monitor(s) Displays
1-AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz/ 2nd 1-ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
2-Samsung M.2 Evo & Evo Plus
2-Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD's/ 3-2.5 W.D. Black 1tb-&3-1tb/3-3.5 WD Black 1tb hdd's
PSU
EVGA SuperNOVA 1000-P2 2nd 1200-P2
Case
2-Corsair Obsidian Series 450D Black ATX Mid Tower
Cooling
Custom water loops
Keyboard
Logitech G710+/ 2nd Logitech G910
Mouse
2-RedDragon M901 Perdition 16400 dpi Gaming mouse = wired
Internet Speed
Comcast Ping 19ms 89.31mbps download speed 6.12mbps upload
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Pro/ Superantispyware Pro
Browser
FireFox & Pale moon
Other Info
2nd ASUS X299 Apex/Intel i9-9940x with Custom water loop/7H-Prem-x64/Corsair 450D case/Ram Trident-z 3600C16 4x8gb / Samsung970Evo plus 500gb SSD/Dual ssd EZ swap evo/PSU EVGA SuperNova 1200w-P2 80+Platinum/GPU Titan Xp /8-ML-140 on push-pull on 2-280GTX rads
Sorry to be the contrarian but your new cpu+graphics uses 9 fewer Watts at peak and way less at idle than your old cpu+graphics, and I see zero reason to get a new PSU. Your points in post #3 are sound. I think that new Palit card even has a fanless version.

Also, prior to shutting down your PC for the last time before swapping the motherboard, go into device manager, select hard drive controller and replace the AMD AHCI/Sata controller with the generic one called "standard ahci serial ata controller". Before that, you might download all the drivers for your new motherboard from the motherboard website and save them on your desktop. Then shut down and swap out the motherboard and cpu. Then boot straight into the bios, make sure the hard drive mode on the new motherboard is AHCI and not RAID. Also make sure the boot order is correct so it boots from your SSD not your secondary drive. I prefer to not even connect the secondary drive until after the motherboard drivers are loaded and device manager is clean.

A great site for compatibility checking is pcpartpicker.com. See what it tells you for the minimum PSU demand of your new config with your old peripherals if you want further PSU reassurance.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
diy
OS
Win7 pro x64
CPU
stock i7 7700k
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z270N-WIFI mini-ITX
Memory
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 @ 3200MHz
Graphics Card(s)
integrated Intel HD 630
Sound Card
onboard Realtek ALC1220
Monitor(s) Displays
two vertically mounted samsung 55" 4k un55mu8000
Screen Resolution
1920x1280
Hard Drives
256GB Samsung EVO 960 M.2 pci-e NVMe SSD
PSU
SilverStone Nightjar ST45NF 450Watt Fanless
Case
No case. Motherboard is mounted directly onto power supply
Cooling
Evercool low profile 815EP with Panaflow 12L fan at 7v
Keyboard
Ortek MCK-86 mini
Mouse
Belkin 5-button USB
Internet Speed
spectrum 400mbps
Sorry to be the contrarian but your new cpu+graphics uses 9 fewer Watts at peak and way less at idle than your old cpu+graphics, and I see zero reason to get a new PSU. Your points in post #3 are sound. I think that new Palit card even has a fanless version.

Also, prior to shutting down your PC for the last time before swapping the motherboard, go into device manager, select hard drive controller and replace the AMD AHCI/Sata controller with the generic one called "standard ahci serial ata controller". Before that, you might download all the drivers for your new motherboard from the motherboard website and save them on your desktop. Then shut down and swap out the motherboard and cpu. Then boot straight into the bios, make sure the hard drive mode on the new motherboard is AHCI and not RAID. Also make sure the boot order is correct so it boots from your SSD not your secondary drive. I prefer to not even connect the secondary drive until after the motherboard drivers are loaded and device manager is clean.

A great site for compatibility checking is pcpartpicker.com. See what it tells you for the minimum PSU demand of your new config with your old peripherals if you want further PSU reassurance.

The issue is not the size of the old PSU; it's the age of it. It's not a great PSU to begin with and, in terms of computer parts, it's ancient history.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Yeah Power Supply components degrade over time the more you use your computer.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ASUS X550ZE
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-BIT
CPU
AMD A8 7200P
Motherboard
N/A
Memory
8GB 1600mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon R5 (APU) + Radeon R5 M230 2GB Dual Graphics
Sound Card
Realtek ALC269 with SonicMaster
Monitor(s) Displays
Laptop Display
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 @60hz
Hard Drives
WDC WD50 00LPVX-80V0TT0 (500GB)
PSU
Laptop Charger
Mouse
ARMAGGEDON TEXTRON SCORPION 7
Internet Speed
100 mbps DOWN / 50 mbps UP
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Mozzila FireFox, Valve Steam in-game internet browser
Is your copy of 7 OEM or retail? If it is OEM you won't be able to put it on another computer and essentially putting it on a new motherboard is putting it on another computer. You will have to obtain another copy of windows because only retail copies can be transferred to another computer.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

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