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I've been reading that the tim Intel used is great stuff. The problem is the glue. It keeps the IHS from making good contact with the die.


I heard exactly the same Steve;)
 

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I've been reading that the tim Intel used is great stuff. The problem is the glue. It keeps the IHS from making good contact with the die.


I heard exactly the same Steve;)

It has to be true then. Besides, I read it on the internet. That means it's true, nobody lies on the internet. lol.
 

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I've been reading that the tim Intel used is great stuff. The problem is the glue. It keeps the IHS from making good contact with the die.


I heard exactly the same Steve;)

It has to be true then. Besides, I read it on the internet. That means it's true, nobody lies on the internet. lol.


Absolutely! I heard it from a friend, I believe the friend found out from the internet, so I have no shadow of doubt that it's 100% true!:eek:
 

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I've been reading that the tim Intel used is great stuff. The problem is the glue. It keeps the IHS from making good contact with the die.


I heard exactly the same Steve;)

It has to be true then. Besides, I read it on the internet. That means it's true, nobody lies on the internet. lol.

truth.gif


:busted::busted::busted:
 

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I know of a guy that removed the glue and replaced it with a shim made of paper the same thickness as the glue. He then used NT-H1 on the die and on top of the IHS. The results were almost the same as he got before de-lidding, proving that it is not the paste that is bad but the gap between the die and the IHS.
 

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I know of a guy that removed the glue and replaced it with a shim made of paper the same thickness as the glue. He then used NT-H1 on the die and on top of the IHS. The results were almost the same as he got before de-lidding, proving that it is not the paste that is bad but the gap between the die and the IHS.
The experiment would only be conclusive if he used the same TIM that Intel used on the IHS. I did some research on gallium and found it is also a liquid metal or a main component of liquid metal compounds replacing mercury.
Wikipedia said:
Gallium-containing alloys are very corrosive when hot. Its temperature should not exceed 65°C.
That's not a good quality though. Source
I've received several packages from OZ to the US and it's always been 12-15 days minimum.

@Steve/Paul, is the glue you refer to that which is on the perimeter of the IHS?
 

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The Liquid Ultra has arrived so tomorrow I'll take the lid off (a little nervous)
 

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The Liquid Ultra has arrived so tomorrow I'll take the lid off (a little nervous)

Ya think? :D Good luck. Pictures!

A Guy

P.S. Be careful :shock:

 

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The Liquid Ultra has arrived so tomorrow I'll take the lid off (a little nervous)
Yes, good luck, and snap a pic or two.:D
 

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@Mark: Good luck on de-lidding the i7 and not cutting you fingers. I have rad the heat spreader is not soldered on so hopefully it comes off without pulling the die with it.

It's not soldered which is why there are temp problems with these chips. I have a really thin, sharp blade that will cut through the glue no problem. I'm then using CoolLabs Liquid Ultra between the die and the IHS and between the IHS and the H100. They sent the Liquid Ultra 8 days ago so it should be here very soon (I hope) I can't get it locally so had to order it from the US.

Who's said that was hard job to do?
 

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Will study that closer....:)

From overclock.net (june 2012)::rolleyes:

well I wanted to do mine, and I ruined it and had to buy another one. i was careful and one slip of the razor blade cost me $250 so If you can avoid it don't do it. I also bought cool labs liquid pro but haven't even opened it lol
biggrin.gif
. I learned to be happy with 75c temps on a 4.4ghz oc since im not risking 250 again.

What exactly did you do? Sorry, just asking so I don't make the same mistake if I choose to do it.

it took alot more force to get the ihs off then I thought it would and I accidentally scraped the PCB and now the chip only runs in single channel memory. Yea i probably did the least amount of damage possible and still ruined it. My advice DON'T DO IT. Someone tried to warn me before hand on here and I didn't listen I wish I had.
 

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Who's said that was hard job to do?
Thanks for the video.

I was a bit confused on the topic before seeing the video. :confused: :D
 

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Who's said that was hard job to do?
No one but it is risking destroying a $300+ CPU, as in your quotes nicking the PCB can do it or the die can be pulled off the PCB. Usually that is more common on Sandy Bridge since the IHSs are soldered on.
 

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I just killed my chip :cry: The blade slipped and I nicked the die twice. As soon as I heard the sound of crushing glass I knew what I'd done but I kept going to see how long it would take. It only took a minute to take the lid off, getting the glue off was the hard part. I just ordered a new one and next time I'll tape up the knife so it can only go in as far as it needs to. I'm confident it won't happen again

chipped chip.png
 
Last edited:

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I'm using a knife with a paper thin blade that slides under the IHS pretty easily. Once the knife was in, I worked it through but put too much pressure and it slipped. I just taped up the blade and checked it against the dead chip and it'll work. Just have to wait til the weekend's over to get the new one
 

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Intel 3770k 4.6GHz
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8GB (2x 4GB) Crucial Ballistix
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I just killed my chip :cry: The blade slipped and I nicked the die twice. As soon as I heard the sound of crushing glass I knew what I'd done but I kept going to see how long it would take. It only took a minute to take the lid off, getting the glue off was the hard part. I just ordered a new one and next time I'll tape up the knife so it can only go in as far as it needs to. I'm confident it won't happen again

View attachment 236247

Oh! very sad....but you'd found courage to clean the thermal paste and the glue after this hard time.....:(
 

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Creative Sound Blaster Z w/5.1 sound system
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Asus IPS 23"
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Internal:
500Go Sata 6Gb/s (x2)
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I wanted to test how the Liquid Ultra goes on so I applied a small amount (a real small amount) and painted the die and the top of the IHS with the little brush they include.
 

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8GB (2x 4GB) Crucial Ballistix
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire 7950 (1060/1600)
Sound Card
On Board Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
27" Acer B273HU (via HDMI)
Screen Resolution
2048 x 1152
Hard Drives
Crucial M4 128GB
2TB WD Black
1TB Samsung F3 SATA
1TB WD Elite External
2TB WD USB 3.0
PSU
Corsair AX750 Gold
Case
Corsair Obsidian 800DW
Cooling
Corsair H100 (2x AP-121/2x UK-3000 push/pull)
Keyboard
Microsoft Wireless 5000
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless 5000
Internet Speed
5mb/s
Other Info
Logitech z-2300 2.1 speakers
Lamptron FC-5 v2

My Computer My Computer

At a glance

Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1Intel i7 2600kG.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GBNvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 300...
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build
OS
Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
CPU
Intel i7 2600k
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe
Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 3000(GT2+)
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell Ultrasharp IPS panel U2311H, Samsung SyncMaster P2350
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB, Samsung SSD 840 120GB, Seagates 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS x2
PSU
Seasonic M12II 520W
Case
Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
Cooling
Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
Keyboard
Logitech MK520 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK520
Internet Speed
6-7 Mbps
Antivirus
Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
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