Slow game performance

Games make use of two things: cores and cache. As for whether or not to get the cpu with the higher cache... well, even though it's OEM (original equipment manufacturer), in this case, the OEM happens to be Intel. Just be aware that it's not going to come with the same warranty as the retail (lower cache) version.

Just to calm your nerves, if they're not already, I've never had a single problem with an OEM cpu. If a chip is going to fail, it's going to do it shortly after I pull it out of the box, still under the 15/30/whatever day warranty... not six months to a year down the road.

As for your cooler, $60.00 for a Thermaltake? :shock: That's spending Thermalright or Zalman type cash; does it deliver similar performance?

So you're suggesting the OEM CPU?

I've never heard of Thermalright or Zalman. all i know is i'm getting a quad core CPU and i need something better than a stock heat sink and fan that comes with most Intel CPUs
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
$60.00 is a lot to spend on a cooler... so if you're going to spend it, you want something that proven to be really good. You'd be hard pressed to find anyone or any review that says that for LGA 775 sockets, you can't do much better than the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme. Well, you can do a bit better, but it will cost you almost twice as much, and twice as much will only get you 1C or 2C lower. Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme Rev C CPU Heatsink: CrazyPC Computers Here's a 120 Extreme that's actually cheaper than that Thermaltake.

Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme Rev.C Review - Overclockers Club

Slight Tune Up: Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme Rev.C, Cogage Arrow and Zalman CNPS10X Flex - X-bit labs

Introduction - Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 Revision B & C Review | [H]ard|OCP

As for the cpu, you have what you need to make the choice. 1 comes with a longer warranty, the other comes with a higher cache. I'm not so much suggesting as I am telling you my experience... the choice is yours to make; afterall, you're the one that's got to use it.
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
$60.00 is a lot to spend on a cooler... so if you're going to spend it, you want something that proven to be really good. You'd be hard pressed to find anyone or any review that says that for LGA 775 sockets, you can't do much better than the Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme. Well, you can do a bit better, but it will cost you almost twice as much, and twice as much will only get you 1C or 2C lower. Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme Rev C CPU Heatsink: CrazyPC Computers Here's a 120 Extreme that's actually cheaper than that Thermaltake.

Thermalright Ultra 120 eXtreme Rev.C Review - Overclockers Club

Slight Tune Up: Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme Rev.C, Cogage Arrow and Zalman CNPS10X Flex - X-bit labs

Introduction - Thermalright Ultra Extreme 120 Revision B & C Review | [H]ard|OCP

As for the cpu, you have what you need to make the choice. 1 comes with a longer warranty, the other comes with a higher cache. I'm not so much suggesting as I am telling you my experience... the choice is yours to make; afterall, you're the one that's got to use it.

thanks for the links, but i decided against one of those because of size. i'm sure they're great coolers but i'm just mot sure if one will fit in my case. that's why i'm probably going with the Ultra Chilltek Silver CPU cooler.

i was looking at the OEM cpu again and if you scroll down to the near bottom of the page, the warranty says 12 months. seems like a no brainier, same price as retail, better, 1 year warranty.

I just have one thing to say, i hope this fixes my problem and i'm not out $200 for nothing! Although i'm pretty sure my "ancient" P4 is my problem, knock on wood.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
If it's any consolation, I just went from an E8400 @ 3.6GHz to a quad because Bad Company 2 just didn't play smoothly even when I clocked to 4GHz. The improvement was dramatic. I'm sure you'll be quite pleased.
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
I just got my quad core about an hour ago. I just now put it in and put the new CPU cooler on, but I can't boot up! When it asks you to chose the OS it comes up with a screen that is titled "Windows Error Recovery". If I choose to start windows normaly then it goes to the windows loading screen but freezes right when the little red and yellow balls of light spin around. If I choos safe mode then it won't go further than the drive loading screen.

Got any ideas?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
Turn the machine off, and disconnect any secondary hard drives you may have. You only want your primary partition connected.

I'm not sure how you're getting to 3GB's of RAM, but pull all but one stick and then boot into the bios. Load the fail safe defaults, aka system setup defaults, save your changes, then reboot.

See if you can boot into Windows. If you can, find and get a bios update for your board.

Did you also get a new board, or is this still the 650i?
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
I'm booting with the OS DVD in the drive and it's doing the same thing, freezes at the starting windows screen.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
Turn the machine off, and disconnect any secondary hard drives you may have. You only want your primary partition connected.

I'm not sure how you're getting to 3GB's of RAM, but pull all but one stick and then boot into the bios. Load the fail safe defaults, aka system setup defaults, save your changes, then reboot.

See if you can boot into Windows. If you can, find and get a bios update for your board.

Did you also get a new board, or is this still the 650i?

Tried the defaults and that didn't work. I am still useing the same board.

Sorry for Any spelling or grammar mistakes, Im useing my iPod touch and it's hard to type on.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
I had a very similar problem just a few weeks ago. Windows 7 is actually very good about detecting a new chipset and installing the right drivers (not that that's your problem), but we'd like to avoid having you reinstall the OS.

If it's your idea to repair the mbr, that's cool, but you're going to have to select cd/dvd to run first, or before the hdd. For me, that didn't actually work... which was also inexplicable? I was all ready to wipe the OS and do a clean re-install, but it just would not boot to dvd first no matter what. That was fortunate, because all I needed was a bios update.

I really have no idea why all of a sudden you can't boot? There's really no reason why it's not. Same chipset, just another cpu. My suggestion remains to try and get into the OS with 1 stick of RAM. Try each of the remaining sticks individually. If that doesn't work, select a different dimm slot and repeat the process.

If worse comes to worse and you get fed up, you could always put the old chip back in, update the bios, then replace it with the new.

A hassle for sure, sorry you have to go through it. :confused:
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
I had a very similar problem just a few weeks ago. Windows 7 is actually very good about detecting a new chipset and installing the right drivers (not that that's your problem), but we'd like to avoid having you reinstall the OS.

If it's your idea to repair the mbr, that's cool, but you're going to have to select cd/dvd to run first, or before the hdd. For me, that didn't actually work... which was also inexplicable? I was all ready to wipe the OS and do a clean re-install, but it just would not boot to dvd first no matter what. That was fortunate, because all I needed was a bios update.

I really have no idea why all of a sudden you can't boot? There's really no reason why it's not. Same chipset, just another cpu. My suggestion remains to try and get into the OS with 1 stick of RAM. Try each of the remaining sticks individually. If that doesn't work, select a different dimm slot and repeat the process.

If worse comes to worse and you get fed up, you could always put the old chip back in, update the bios, then replace it with the new.

A hassle for sure, sorry you have to go through it. :confused:

I just put the old P4 back in and everything's working fine, good to know i can fall back to it if need be.

How would i update the BIOS? would it be just like updating a video driver or something like that? i'm asking because i've never done it before and don't know if there it something special that needs to be done. Also, can i update the BIOS with the P4 and then swap it out for the quad?

I'll try booting with 1gb of RAM in a minute. that big CPU cooler is a PAIN! it's getting really annoying to have to take the whole motherboard out every time i switch CPUs.:mad:
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
MSI Europe – Computer, Laptop, Notebook, Desktop, Mainboard, Graphics and more

Go to the MSI site, enter in your board's details, and proceed to the correct download section for the latest bios.

I'm unaware if MSI has a utility to update the bios, but at least their live update does support your 32-bit version of Windows 7.

If they have a utility to update the bios, and I'm sure they must, use it. Please though, read the update instructions carefully, then re-read them again. Go through the process slowly. If you screw this up, you could render your board inoperable.

An updated bios *should* see your new cpu, and you should be able to boot up just fine after the update.
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
MSI Europe – Computer, Laptop, Notebook, Desktop, Mainboard, Graphics and more

Go to the MSI site, enter in your board's details, and proceed to the correct download section for the latest bios.

I'm unaware if MSI has a utility to update the bios, but at least their live update does support your 32-bit version of Windows 7.

If they have a utility to update the bios, and I'm sure they must, use it. Please though, read the update instructions carefully, then re-read them again. Go through the process slowly. If you screw this up, you could render your board inoperable.

An updated bios *should* see your new cpu, and you should be able to boot up just fine after the update.

Ok, i'll give that a go.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
The BIOS update instructions say to boot from a Win 98 or Win Me boot-floppy. First, why Win 98 or Me, second i don't have a floppy drive. What do i do now?

There is a utility called Live Update 4, but it can seem to find what version BIOS i have or find any updates to it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
The first thing you should do is contact MSI. You need to know if flashing is worth it. If their latest bios doesn't support Yorkfield cpu's, then flashing would be pointless, and not worth the risk.

In that case, you can either get a board that does support Yorkfields, or return the Yorkie for something on MSI's list of supported cpus.

You can use a flash drive to flash the bios: How to Flash Your BIOS with Flash Drives Again though, read thoroughly and with care.

There's also Winflash, which works with 32-bit Windows, but you need to first find out if you can use it since it doesn't work with all bios'. This is something MSI would be able to answer.
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
i think i have an AMI BIOS, though i'm not sure on that. is there any way to tell for sure what BIOS i have?

That Winflash utility looks a whole lot easier than updating with a flashdrive, do you know if Winflash will work with an AMI BIOS?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
Yeah, it "looks" easier, and it is, but the flash could also not take... which would be really bad.

I'd try the tool MSI provides, try this guide: MSI Support BIOS Update
 

My Computer

OS
7 Ultimate x64
CPU
i5-2500k
Motherboard
Asus P8P67 Pro
Memory
8GB G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL7D-8GBXH 1866MHz 8-9-8-24
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 570 SC
Sound Card
X-Fi Titanium Fatality
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27A550H 27" LED
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120GB.
1TB Samsung F3.
2TB Samsung F4.
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 760
Case
Lian Li Lancool K62
Cooling
Thermalright Venomous X Black/Scythe S-Flex/Shin-Etsu X23
Keyboard
MS Natural Elite 4000 Ergonomic
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
6MB/768
Other Info
Logitech Z-5500 505 watts.
D-Link DGL-4500.
Tripp-Lite Smart Pro 1500.
You could hit the delete key while starting your PC...your bios version should be in your bios.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
home built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
CPU
930 i7 quad O/C 4ghz
Motherboard
Asus P6X58D premium
Memory
G Skill 3x2gb O/C to 1603mhz 1T timing
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 570
Sound Card
creative titanium
Monitor(s) Displays
samsung s23a950d..120hz 3D
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 3X150 Velocoraptors in Raid 5
PSU
Antec Quattro 1000 watt
Case
Xigmatek Elysium
Cooling
Custom Loop..Kryos block.360rad..BP comp fittings etc
Keyboard
Razor arcosa
Mouse
Razer Diamondback
Internet Speed
Wireless so w/e I get at the time
Yeah, it "looks" easier, and it is, but the flash could also not take... which would be really bad.

I'd try the tool MSI provides, try this guide: MSI Support BIOS Update

ok, my BIOS is definitely AMI. now i just need to update it.

My board is an MS-7350 Ver:1.0

Here's a link to the new BIOS that i have downloaded. (haven't installed yet)

MSI Global – Computer, Laptop, Notebook, Desktop, Mainboard, Graphics and more

I downloaded version 1.7

I keep trying the MSI update utilities but they never work. Live Update 3 and 4 both don't work and the online updater doesn't work. I think i'm going to have to do this with a flash drive.

Just to be clear, what EXACTLY would i have to do to the flash drive in order to update the BIOS? I know i've been asking a lot of questions about this, but i just have no idea how to do it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self-Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium x64, Ubuntu Linux
CPU
Intel [email protected]
Motherboard
ASUS P5N-D nForce 750i SLI
Memory
8GB Patroit Gamer Series PC6400 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
PNY GTX 470
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital 1TB
Western Digital 2TB
Corsair Neutron 120GB SSD
PSU
900 watt, efficient to 750 watts
Case
NZXT M59
Cooling
Ultra Chilltec Silver CPU Cooler, 120mm fan x2, 140mm fan x2
Keyboard
Razer Marauder (Starcraft 2)
Mouse
Razer Spectre (Starcraft 2)
Internet Speed
Cable (2-5Mb/s)
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