The time has come (update opinions)

[essenbe]

Yeah I'll have a little time to fine tune the order.
Instead of ordering right away I'm going to wait until end of November and catch holiday sales and have a bit more to spend.

...unless I just cave because I get sick of having this older computer as my primary right now.

If you are going to buy an SSD anyway, buy it now for your older computer. It will help it "last longer", if you know what I mean.

 

[whs]

Am also now looking at this possible mobo/cpu combo.
Newegg.com - MSI 890FXA-GD70 AM3 AMD 890FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
Newegg.com - AMD Phenom II X6 1075T Thuban 3.0GHz 6 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor HDT75TFBGRBOX

it's also significantly less expensive. Maybe enough so for me to sneak a ssd into the order.

If you want to go AMD, this would be my favorite. I am not sure what 6core or 8core will buy you in real life (except in video editing). But if it is not this one, it should be an Fx series (Bulldozer) in any case.

And I think an SSD for the OS is a must. Even the most modest 60GB unit will do wonders. This is a good one: Newegg.com - Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) with Transfer Kit

 

[Maguscreed]

The reason I was looking at a 128 was os + maybe 20-35 gigs worth of games. The commonly played ones that I would really notice were loading better.
and while I could do it on a 64 probably, I like the buffer of safe zone with the 128.

It's the main reason I've never looked at an ssd until now, the price is just starting to get within some kind of reason.
We burn through storage so much on modern machines though. Will be sticking to my mechanicals on the large file storage for the time being still. A 1tb ssd is still priced way out of reach.

Plus new build will have enough RAM to just disable the pagefile altogether. I'll be noticing a significant difference regardless.

edit: P.S. this machine I'm calling old is a fx-60 amd rig, bought when the fx-60 was the top chip on the market.
While it was one of the first real dual cores on the market, now it's just junk attached to standard ddr.
I tolerate it because it still has a good 8800gtx in it. Which is a hot power hungry card but it still manages pretty well. Even plays battlefield 3, though not as well as my 5850 AA is a noticeable issue on the 8800gtx, it's not on the 5850.
Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions all.

 

[henryeight]

I'm somewhat surprised you get through MBO in a couple of years (yr earlier post) . . . are the failure modes anything like similar?
High temperatures, vibration and electrical interference are good reasons. . . . IMHO.

 

[Maguscreed]

it's only been with the striker boards as in my specs (not the computer I'm currently on because mobo is tanked)
The motherboard in this thing I've had for a long time.
Pretty much same conditions of use.
I think the striker extreme boards are just jinky.
Asus never even released win 7 drivers associated with the board on their site.
Had to update the bios just so the 5850 would even work on it.
Seemed like a great board early on but they apparently just don't last.

 

[whs]

Plus new build will have enough RAM to just disable the pagefile altogether

Make sure you have some rudimentary page file left - like 1GB. Else your system will fail. Some programs create hard page faults, even if tons of RAM are available. What you should delete though is the hiberfile.

 

[Maguscreed]

Plus new build will have enough RAM to just disable the pagefile altogether

Make sure you have some rudimentary page file left - like 1GB. Else your system will fail. Some programs create hard page faults, even if tons of RAM are available. What you should delete though is the hiberfile.

I thought that had been worked out to an extent with win 7.

I did develop one new question though.
UPS, I need one it's been years since I purchased one so open to suggestions.
Pretty sure not having one is the reason I'm buying new parts now.
Anyhow, was looking at cyber power.

 

[whs]

I thought that had been worked out to an extent with win 7

Go to Resource Monitor > Memory tab. The graph on the bottom right will show you an occasional hard page fault even if you have plenty of available RAM.

 

[Wishmaster]

With 8GB of memory, Ive actually had apps give a virtual memory error if the PF wasn't present.
Granted, it may not be that common, but still possible.

I have a static PF set at 3.5GB I think it is, and all has been well.

I would certainly leave some form of PF in place, at least 1-4GB.

 

[essenbe]

FWIW, I have set my page file to 1GB min 2GB max. Plus, as I understand it, it requires a minimum of 800MB to create a dump file.

 

[Hopalong X]

I thought that had been worked out to an extent with win 7.

I did develop one new question though.
UPS, I need one it's been years since I purchased one so open to suggestions.
Pretty sure not having one is the reason I'm buying new parts now.
Anyhow, was looking at cyber power.

I'm using a Cyberpower 550. They new model is 600 or 650.
You need a 1000w if you do heavy OC'ing.

I'll tell you why.
I run my CPU at 3.08 instead of the 2.93 stock setting with no problems.
I never came close to maxing it out.

But if I OC to 3.8 it messes with the 550W USP.
It can not supply enough wattage.
I'm talking about with AC power on not on the battery only.

My system draws 600-650w OC'ed to 3.8 and so maxes the UPS out.
You can only draw what the UPS allows which is 550W it is rated.
Anymore and it will burn out quickly

They don't tell you this in any of the specs but the UPS watt rating is maximum UPS draw allowed ALL the time. Not just battery time.

My PC ran with the 650w draw for a few seconds and I had to shut it down. The alarms were going nuts on the UPS. It won't sustain that output.

Like taking a power supply rated at 6A and the surge rating may be 8A.
Then put a 10A load on it.
For a few seconds surge power will work but it overheats and dies quickly.

If you don't OC heavily you will be fine with the smaller 600-650.
If you OC heavily go with the 1000-1200.

Something I never thought of before I bought mine and found out by experience.

 

[whs]

FWIW, I have set my page file to 1GB min 2GB max. Plus, as I understand it, it requires a minimum of 800MB to create a dump file.

Yeah, 800MB is minimum. But if you have more than 800MB populated, then you need more. The safe way for dumps is the have a PF the size of RAM - or at least the size of commonly populated "in use" RAM in case of 8GB RAM or more because it is very unlikely the 8GBs will ever be used as "in use".

 

[Maguscreed]

I thought that had been worked out to an extent with win 7.

I did develop one new question though.
UPS, I need one it's been years since I purchased one so open to suggestions.
Pretty sure not having one is the reason I'm buying new parts now.
Anyhow, was looking at cyber power.

I'm using a Cyberpower 550. They new model is 600 or 650.
You need a 1000w if you do heavy OC'ing.

I'll tell you why.
I run my CPU at 3.08 instead of the 2.93 stock setting with no problems.
I never came close to maxing it out.

But if I OC to 3.8 it messes with the 550W USP.
It can not supply enough wattage.
I'm talking about with AC power on not on the battery only.

My system draws 600-650w OC'ed to 3.8 and so maxes the UPS out.
You can only draw what the UPS allows which is 550W it is rated.
Anymore and it will burn out quickly

They don't tell you this in any of the specs but the UPS watt rating is maximum UPS draw allowed ALL the time. Not just battery time.

My PC ran with the 650w draw for a few seconds and I had to shut it down. The alarms were going nuts on the UPS. It won't sustain that output.

Like taking a power supply rated at 6A and the surge rating may be 8A.
Then put a 10A load on it.
For a few seconds surge power will work but it overheats and dies quickly.

If you don't OC heavily you will be fine with the smaller 600-650.
If you OC heavily go with the 1000-1200.

Something I never thought of before I bought mine and found out by experience.

Thanks for the input.
Odds of me overclocking for an extended period of time are pretty low. I will usually play around with new hardware when I first get it, just to see how it will clock and how stable it will be. I'm not a hardcore overclocker though.
Chances are hardware longevity will win out and it will be running at stock a large portion of the time.

 

[Maguscreed]

Okay I caved, going intel, and spending nearly 200 dollars more than I meant too.

Though I may pull the case as I have a decent one already

 

[essenbe]

The only recomendation I would make is the ram. I would use the ripjaws X serise. It was made for the P67/Z68 chips. Look at the motherboard approved list on your selection. That does not mean it won't run on that MB. Plus, they are cheaper. Plus, look at the memory standard in details on your motherboard.

RipjawsX serise 1866

Ripjaws X serise 2133

 

[Maguscreed]

noted that 2133 should spread a lot for overclocking too.
I'm still looking at a similar amd setup, but right now the cpus are out of stock on it.
I was thinking about future proofing and no matter how you cut it 8 cores does seem pretty damn future proof.
...and it comes out nearly 300 dollars less.

 

[Maguscreed]

Sorry too double post, but the order has finally been made
NZXT Phantom PHAN-001BK Black Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case
Model #HAN-001BK
$124.99

MSI Z68A-GD80 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #:Z68A-GD80 (B3)
$239.99

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series CMPSU-850TX 850W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V v2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active
Model #:CMPSU-850TX
$134.99

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
Model #:BX80623I72600K
$319.99

Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Model #:CT128M4SSD2
$196.99

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL9D-8GBXM
Model #:F3-17000CL9D-8GBXM
$99.99

Brother MFC-J220 Up to 33 ppm 6000 x 1200 dpi InkJet MFC / All-In-One Color Printer
Model #:MFC-J220
$104.99

Panasonic DMC-FH25A Blue 16.1 MP 2.7" 230k LCD 8X Optical Zoom 28mm Wide Angle Digital Camera
Model #MC-FH25A
$149.99

Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM


ZALMAN CNPS9900ALED 120mm 2 Ball Low-noise Blue LED CPU Cooler
Model #:CNPS9900ALED
$58.99

Rosewill RTK-045 45 Piece Premium Computer Tool Kit
Model #:RTK-045
$19.99

Was the full order.
Mechanical drives will just be moved over from the previous build.

 

[Hopalong X]

Looks like it will be an excellent rig.

Bad to the bone.

Glad you went with the 850W PSU. A little oversize never hurts.

 

[Maguscreed]

Well since I'm getting the aftermarket cooler and higher end ram, I figured I would go ahead and prepare to overclock a bit. The slightly beefier psu seemed prudent at that point.

lol just now realized my new digicam is on the list too, oh well.

I'm considering a aftermarket copper northbridge heatsink as well.
Do you think that's over doing it?

 

[essenbe]

Looks like a great build. I'm sure you will enjoy it. Bet it will fly.