Thermal Compound, how much of a difference does it make?!

kerfuffler

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So, recently I have had to take my PC into a computer shop for some assistance as I was stuck on a failing to boot problem for a while ( Turns out a replaced a faulty PSU with another, brand new faulty one). Also, when getting a new PSU, I also upgraded my case to the NZXT Lexia S, which has 5 120mm case fans.

When I collected the PC, they had left the CPU cooler off, so naturally I thought best to re-apply the thermal paste, as I had none left I asked the shop for some and kindly free of charge they gave me some. It was the bog standard 'Cooler paste' with a conductivity off >1.93 W/m-k, when I used to have some Arctic Silver stuff ( Can't remember what type).

Now, my problem is my CPU AMD 64x2 6000+ idles at around 50-51C and full load around 63-65c!!
Surely with my new case it should be running cooler? (Not sure exact temperatures)
So I'm asking, is it the thermal paste that is causing so much difference!?

Thanks for your time!
 

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i'd try resetting the heatsink or check the heatsink and make sure it's on right .
if it's pushpins make sure you have them locked down.

scrooge
 

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my first thought would be to find a new repair shop. aside from that i would make sure they reconnected all the fans and that they are not obstructed by anything. also, too much thermal paste can cause overheating.
 

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65C is still inside the allowed temps, IIRC.
I'd say it's most important that #1 thermal compound has been used and #2 that it has been applied correctly. True..there is a difference in effectiveness between low cost/standard grade and the better brands like arctic silver. But by no means it would make a 10 degree difference...5-6 degrees at best. What I'm trying to say is: if you look to lower the temps dramatically, it's not the compound brand I would worry about.
Make sure the heat sink is seated correctly and the air flow is not obstructed by cables, extension cards etc. If that all doesn't get you where you'd like to be, maybe consider replacing the stock cooler with a more efficient system.

-DG
 

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Arctic Silver helped on my system measuredly lowered temps when I switched over 18 months ago, dropped an extra 3-5 @ idle and 10 at full bore!
 

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65 at full load doesnt seem that high, 51 idle is kinda high though
 

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So, recently I have had to take my PC into a computer shop for some assistance as I was stuck on a failing to boot problem for a while ( Turns out a replaced a faulty PSU with another, brand new faulty one). Also, when getting a new PSU, I also upgraded my case to the NZXT Lexia S, which has 5 120mm case fans.

When I collected the PC, they had left the CPU cooler off, so naturally I thought best to re-apply the thermal paste, as I had none left I asked the shop for some and kindly free of charge they gave me some. It was the bog standard 'Cooler paste' with a conductivity off >1.93 W/m-k, when I used to have some Arctic Silver stuff ( Can't remember what type).

Now, my problem is my CPU AMD 64x2 6000+ idles at around 50-51C and full load around 63-65c!!
Surely with my new case it should be running cooler? (Not sure exact temperatures)
So I'm asking, is it the thermal paste that is causing so much difference!?

Thanks for your time!
Yup, very high on both ends.

I'd recommend re-applying the thermal paste, and making sure the CPU cooler is properly mounted.
 

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i use the same cpu and I found the heatsink and fan I use is important then installing it properly with a thin layer of heatsink paste gave me best results ;)

using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro I achieve steady temps of 38 deg C at idle and never any higher than 50 deg C under full load :geek:

the contact between the polished surface of the CPU and the polished base of the heatsink is critical for effective cooling and the heatsink paste is used to fill in the imperfections in these contact surfaces, so you can imagine only a very thin smear should be necessary :huh:

In the earlier days of computing when overclocking I used to flatten out and polish the CPU and heatsink surfaces to maximize metal to metal contact and this always worked better than a thicker layer of heatsink paste, but with todays CPU's and good quality heatsinks this is no longer neccesary :)
 

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built my own
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win7 ultimate / virtual box
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Intel Core i7 3770K,1155, Ivy Bridge
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Corsair HX 750W ATX2.2 Modular
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Antec 25 Kuhler H2O 620
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logitech
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logitech MX518
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i use the same cpu and I found the heatsink and fan I use is important then installing it properly with a thin layer of heatsink paste gave me best results ;)

using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro I achieve steady temps of 38 deg C at idle and never any higher than 50 deg C under full load :geek:

the contact between the polished surface of the CPU and the polished base of the heatsink is critical for effective cooling and the heatsink paste is used to fill in the imperfections in these contact surfaces, so you can imagine only a very thin smear should be necessary :huh:

In the earlier days of computing when overclocking I used to flatten out and polish the CPU and heatsink surfaces to maximize metal to metal contact and this always worked better than a thicker layer of heatsink paste, but with todays CPU's and good quality heatsinks this is no longer neccesary :)

Great info icky...

Id like to add that if you are unfamiliar with how to properly apply thermal paste/grease/goo there are plenty of videos out there willing to show you how.

Here are a few recent ones...
Arctic Silver Incorporated - Route to Product Instructions for Arctic Silver 5
How-To: Properly Apply Thermal Paste and Install a CPU | Maximum PC
and plenty on youtube too!

Oh, and while you have the cooler off, Id suggest going to an aftermarket cooler!
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebrew PC - "Alpha_Dawg"
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Steve Ballmer Signature Edition
CPU
Intel Core 2 Quad - Q9550 - 2.83GHz stock - OC'd to 3.6GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte EP45-UD3P
Memory
4GB DDR2 800MHz (PC6400) OCZ Reaper
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GE Force 8800 GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar DX
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
WD Caviar Black 750GB - 7200RPM - 32MB cache
WD Caviar Green 1.5TB - 5400RPM - 64MB cache
WD Caviar Green 2.0TB - 5400RPM - 64MB cache
PSU
PC Power & Cooling Silencer 750
Case
Gigabyte 3D Aurora
Cooling
Case is Air - 5ea. 120mm fans (mix of Arctic and Xigmatec)
Keyboard
MS Natural Wireless KB
Mouse
MS Wireless Mouse
Internet Speed
50 mbps down/5 mbps up
Other Info
AVerMedia - AVerTVHD G2 Dual Tuner Card
i use the same cpu and I found the heatsink and fan I use is important then installing it properly with a thin layer of heatsink paste gave me best results ;)

using an Arctic Cooling Freezer 64 Pro I achieve steady temps of 38 deg C at idle and never any higher than 50 deg C under full load :geek:

the contact between the polished surface of the CPU and the polished base of the heatsink is critical for effective cooling and the heatsink paste is used to fill in the imperfections in these contact surfaces, so you can imagine only a very thin smear should be necessary :huh:

In the earlier days of computing when overclocking I used to flatten out and polish the CPU and heatsink surfaces to maximize metal to metal contact and this always worked better than a thicker layer of heatsink paste, but with todays CPU's and good quality heatsinks this is no longer neccesary :)

Thanks for the advice, cooler sounds good! I think I'l try it out, looks better than my current CPU cooler.

Also, I've noticed it comes with cooling paste pre applied, so I would only apply to the CPU myself?
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows 7 home premium 64Bit
CPU
AMD X2 6000+ 3.10Ghz
Motherboard
Asus M2N-E SLI
Memory
6.00Gb DDR2 800mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia 8600GT
Sound Card
On board 7.1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung peeble 2232BW
Screen Resolution
1680X1050
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750GB
PSU
600W
Case
Asus
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Keyboard
ZBoard Merch
Mouse
Razer Diamondback
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>20MBPS
Other Info
Also runnig an Asus EEE pc 1005HA with Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit
I just remembered, when trying to fix my PC I reset the CMOS, could I have lost any settings through that which would cause the heat rise?
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
Windows 7 home premium 64Bit
CPU
AMD X2 6000+ 3.10Ghz
Motherboard
Asus M2N-E SLI
Memory
6.00Gb DDR2 800mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia 8600GT
Sound Card
On board 7.1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung peeble 2232BW
Screen Resolution
1680X1050
Hard Drives
750GB
PSU
600W
Case
Asus
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
ZBoard Merch
Mouse
Razer Diamondback
Internet Speed
>20MBPS
Other Info
Also runnig an Asus EEE pc 1005HA with Windows 7 Home Premium 32bit
only fan speed control and default settings should work without issue, If this was a customer PC brought to me I would concentrate on CPU temperature and airflow through the case :geek:
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
built my own
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win7 ultimate / virtual box
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Intel Core i7 3770K,1155, Ivy Bridge
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MSI Z77A-G43
Memory
GSkill Ripjaws Z Series 1600 CL 9.0 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
KFA2 GeForce GTX 670 EX OC 2048MB GDDR5 PCI-E gfx card
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onboard Nvidia HDMI audio
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ASUS VK222H 22" widescreen LCD monitor
Screen Resolution
1680x1050
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Kingston 128gb SSD
OCZ Vertex 90gb SSD
500GB WDCaviar 16mb 5000KS
320GB WDCaviar 16mb 3200AAKS sata 2
1TB Samsung 16mb HD103SJ sata 2
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Corsair HX 750W ATX2.2 Modular
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Antec 25 Kuhler H2O 620
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logitech
Mouse
logitech MX518
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7mb adsl
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