Solved USB Devices not seen in Windows 7

[matts6887]

This may also be a possibility; I know ive had to manually add the printer in devices and printers to make it show up after which point you will still need to get windows to search for the drivers. Even though yes; windows is suppose to look for the right driver(s) for the device by itself; for whatever reason; sometimes you have to do the above to get it to show up.

 

[dTonic]

This may also be a possibility; I know ive had to manually add the printer in devices and printers to make it show up after which point you will still need to get windows to search for the drivers. Even though yes; windows is suppose to look for the right driver(s) for the device by itself; for whatever reason; sometimes you have to do the above to get it to show up.

I'm pretty sure I did that, but windows was unable to find any printers for me to choose from.

A good thought, though!

Thanks for the input...

 

[Slartybart]

This is the 2nd Monitor suddenly not working issue posted- the other one we're not having much luck.

Anyway mom can boot from disc or thumbdrive? I wondering if there's a fakir (my term) out there... let me search for the issue, although it is recent and might not be widely reported.

If it is malware and it has messed with Bios, then fixing it is going to be a bear - flying blind.

 

[Slartybart]

There is a LOT of this going around. Some talk about voltages, bad cards,bad cables, Bios updates, etc

One person was able to wake up their machine by holding the power button down for 4-5 seconds, when the box restarted (not clear if the person did a cold boot) the machine came back without data loss (probably hibernation or hybrid sleep)

If this works, I would purge the hibernation file
disable hibernation (elevated cmd prompt, powercfg -h off)
restart
enable hibernation (elevated cmd prompt, powercfg -h off)
restart
-> enter bios
load defaults
save and exit

The next thing I would try is How To Clear CMOS (Reset BIOS)
Note: A fourth way to clear CMOS on some systems is to disconnect any power source (battery and AC), then simply hold the power button down for 2 minutes. This might not work on all systems though.

The surest way is to remove the CMOS button battery for about 20 minutes, then put the battery back in. You could opt for a new CMOS battery, How to replace the CMOS battery.

start the system
-> enter bios
load defaults
save and exit

 

[dTonic]

This is the 2nd Monitor suddenly not working issue posted- the other one we're not having much luck.

Anyway mom can boot from disc or thumbdrive? I wondering if there's a fakir (my term) out there... let me search for the issue, although it is recent and might not be widely reported.

If it is malware and it has messed with Bios, then fixing it is going to be a bear - flying blind.

Fact:
Monitor has been tested and is working

Observation:
I don't think "Mom" CAN boot from a thumb drive. If the bios is not being accessed (no info on screen), then booting as a whole is not possible.

malware or virus:
I doubt it! She rarely uses the internet, mostly installed(virus-free) games. She has Microsoft Security Essentials and SuperAntiSpyware installed. This combination has worked very well for me in the past.
Also, she uses Firefox with adblocks+, which is another layer of protection against malware entryways.

 

[Slartybart]

Yeah, I knew my post might confuse somethings.
1) my 2nd monitor reference is to another thread. Should have been more clear.
2) disregard malware"thinking out loud"
3) .... on to flushing CMOS

Thanks for re-emphasizing that the monitor works.

More thinking out loud
Did you use the same monitor cable when you tested?
Are there any POST beeps or lights at boot?
Does the HD spin up?
--> No? Disconnect HD, reconnect.
Dust / dirt in machine?
Do the fans spin?

I'm hoping it's CMOS - try that 1st.

 

[dTonic]

There is a LOT of this going around. Some talk about voltages, bad cards,bad cables, Bios updates, etc

One person was able to wake up their machine by holding the power button down for 4-5 seconds, when the box restarted (not clear if the person did a cold boot) the machine came back without data loss (probably hibernation or hybrid sleep)

If this works, I would purge the hibernation file
disable hibernation (elevated cmd prompt, powercfg -h off)
restart
enable hibernation (elevated cmd prompt, powercfg -h off)
restart
-> enter bios
load defaults
save and exit

Fact: I disabled Hibernation when I installed the OS

There isn't a hibernation option in the bios, is there? Can't get into the bios anyways...

The next thing I would try is How To Clear CMOS (Reset BIOS)
Note: A fourth way to clear CMOS on some systems is to simply hold the power button down for 2 minutes. This might not work on all systems though.

The surest way is to remove the CMOS button battery for about 20 minutes, then put the battery back in. You could opt for a new CMOS battery, How to replace the CMOS battery.

start the system
-> enter bios
load defaults
save and exit

Observation:
Clearing the CMOS will reset the bios to defaults, which will then not allow the machine to boot from USB or CD\DVD, not that it does right now any-ways, though I haven't tried.

But clearing the CMOS may be an option.


Problem is, the monitor works and absolutely nothing is displayed when the computer is turned on. Thus, I would suspect either the nVidia graphics card or the mother board. This is essentially what I need ways to troubleshoot one vs the other.

My plan as it stands now will be:

1) Try booting from a CD/DVD (Acronis TrueImage)

2) Remove and reinsert CMOS battery

3) Figure how to determine whether or not the issue might be the graphics card or the mother board.

If it's the graphics card, then I would be able to enter bios, or even operate windows (blindly), but the key detractor in the second scenario is that the mouse does not seem to be working(chalk one up for the Mobo).
I have another graphics card, but am not sure the computer will accept the slot type.

4) Check slot availability for alternate graphics card.

 

[Slartybart]

Your plan sounds like a plan and seems sound.

 

[dTonic]

Did some troubleshooting...

1)
Had my father check the connections for the HDD. Also had him place his hand on the drive when starting the computer up. His observations were not conclusive...."seems to be spinning."

The On Board Debug Port later displayed a code, "26" which references Clock Gen / Init onboard clock generator and sensor (no idea what this means). Don't know if other codes flashed prior to this.

2)
Placed Acronis TrueImage Boot Disc in CDROM Drive and rebooted.
Nothing new... No Debug code showed up this time, "--"

3)
Had them remove the CMOS battery and am currently in a Dinner break. Will finish the CMOS test when they call back.
I will also have my father keep an eye on the Debug codes for multiple codes...etc.



Additionally:
I do have a compatible graphics card for their system, but am still suspect with respect to the mobo.
Been searching for one that would be comparable with the other hardware...

DDR2 800 (2x 1GB, 2x 2GB - tot. 6GB)
PCI slots for graphics card
Socket AM2
4 Ram Memory Slots

Found:
ASRock 960GC-GS FX AM3+/AM3/AM2+ AMD 760G Micro ATX AMD Motherboard for $55 at newegg.com

*This has onboard graphics capability and thus a graphics card would not be absolutely necessary.The Micro ATX will allow me to integrate into a smaller case I have.


Q: will AM2 work in AM2+ socket?....so far my search says yes.


more to come...
I'm kinda hoping the mobo is gone... this way solving this issue may, in turn, solve the USB/Printer issues!!

 

[dTonic]

Yeah, I knew my post might confuse somethings.
1) my 2nd monitor reference is to another thread. Should have been more clear.
2) disregard malware"thinking out loud"
3) .... on to flushing CMOS

Thanks for re-emphasizing that the monitor works.

More thinking out loud

Did you use the same monitor cable when you tested?

Same Monitor cable, but it does use an adapter for that "new" monitor style!

Are there any POST beeps or lights at boot?

No Beeps whatsoever...

Does the HD spin up?
--> No? Disconnect HD, reconnect.

We think so!

Dust / dirt in machine?

Clean 3 weeks ago!

Do the fans spin?

Yes, all 7 fans are running.
2 - power supply
1 - HDD
1 - CPU
1 - GPU
2 - Case Fans

I'm hoping it's CMOS - try that 1st.

 

[Slartybart]

Could very well be the CMOS battery

Did some troubleshooting...

1) Had my father check the connections for the HDD. Also had him place his hand on the drive when starting the computer up. His observations were not conclusive...."seems to be spinning."

The On Board Debug Port later displayed a code, "26" which references Clock Gen / Init onboard clock generator and sensor (no idea what this means). Don't know if other codes flashed prior to this.

I like the way you think!

I'm kinda hoping the mobo is gone... this way solving this issue may, in turn, solve the USB/Printer issues!!

 

[dTonic]

CMOS Battery was removed for 1hr+.
Tested CMOS battery at 2.6V
Tested New Battery at 2.8V and used the new one. I think his meter is a little off.

No beep, No Debug Codes, No Monitor...
The Code 26 was not repeatable and no series of codes flashed after power-up

That leaves us with the GPU or Mobo

If HDD were not sensed, monitor should display something, right?

If HDD were not sensed, there should be a beep sequence, right?

If Power supply was suspect, what might it do?

All components, though moving towards antiquation have been used scantily. They sat in my home for 4+ years unused.

When I do get down to their house I plan to check connections, perhaps replace some cables, and test an alternative Graphics card. If the alternate graphics card does not work, then I will probably make the assumption that the mobo is gone and bite the $55.

I like the way you think!

When your the computer guy for your entire family, you do pickup some decent skills. I also use to diagnose issues with milti-million dollar mfg tools for IBM's semiconductor processing as well as their metal etching processes.

 

[Slartybart]

I've asked for some help - some members with more HW experience can better answer those questions.

I think you have a good grasp on the issue - I think I've exhausted everything I can think of.

I'll stay subscribed and see how it goes.

Bill

 

[dTonic]

Thanks Slartybart, If anything, you have help keep my head on straight and offered some pathways I may not have thought about.

 

[Slartybart]

You are welcome and all the best resolving this (these) issues

Bill

 

[dTonic]

O.K. Something new to ponder.

I had my parents start the computer up using the power button on the front of the computer. It went through it's "normal" routine (nothing).

I Then had them press the reset button, also on the front of the computer.

Results: nothing..., nothing..., something!

The monitor began working (proof that the graphics card is OK) and the boot diagnostics info was being displayed.
It then landed at the screen where it asks "How would you like to boot" Safe mode, regular mode, etc.
Too much time passed and it began to execute the default, which I believe is safe mode. The windows 7 logo appeared and then the screen went blank and stayed blank for several minutes before we repeated the process.

Bad News: we could not get the the boot screen again.

So, what does this tell us?

I am leaning towards poor cable connections now.

Generally a reset button is a "soft boot" option that, when pressed, sends a reset signal to all peripherals.

I never tried, and am not sure if pressing the reset button with the computer powered down would start the computer or not. I'm guessing not.

 

[Slartybart]

What is the machine make and model again? I skimmed the posts, but if it's there I missed it.

Is the 2nd button a SLEEP button? A friend of mine has an older machine with 2 buttons (power and sleep - moon on button). From time to time, he has similar problems. He just keeps trying until the thing works (power on... sleep button..power off...sleep button...) not the best practices.

He isn't a computer enthusiast - so if the box sits for a few weeks and will not boot, he doesn't really care. When he eventually gets the box to fire up, it works for weeks or months at a time.

Anyway, both on the outside and the inside the box check around those buttons for dust - give them a good blast of compressed air. Since it is an old machine and it sat for a while, the sleep button might be shorting telling the box "Don't bother me now, I'm sleeping"

Sometimes, exercising the button (in/out...in/out..in/out... 10-20 times) cleans the contacts. This is good news, really - no major components, just a stuck button.

Then use the power button - anything?
No? try the sleep button again after the power comes on

 

[dTonic]

There is no Make/Model. It is a generic case, and to today's standards, a heavy-duty one at that. The case I have myself feels like it was made out of aluminum foil!

The "Power" button is the main button which hasn't failed on any press. With newer versions of Windows, it can be configured (from a running system) as a hibernation, standby, or power off button. Holding it for more than 3 seconds will cut power. The "reset" button, as I have called it, is just that. It was standard in older systems and prevalent in generic cases.

Exercising the reset button with the poser off may indeed do some good if dust is causing it to malfunction, but I don't think it is malfunctioning. When the reset button is pressed it will make an audible change in the system as it shuts down. My father may not be pressing this button correctly.

If I remember, you must generally hold the reset button a bit longer than a standard power button for the reset, restart sequence to take effect. He may not be doing this.

One other Observation:
The HDD is a SATA HDD, which has the two SATA connectors, one for power and the other one for Data. This HDD also has the old "Molex 8981" power connector (Yellow/Blach - 12V & Red/Black - 5V) as well, and I believe they are both connected. Don't know if this is an issue or not! Not sure why they both exist! Newer HDD's seem only to have SATA power connectors.


FOR REFERENCE...

The following is a summary of the boot process in a PC:

1. The power button activates the power supply in the PC, sending power to the motherboard and other components.
2. The PC performs a power-on self-test (POST). The POST is a small computer program within the BIOS that checks for hardware failures. A single beep after the POST signals that everything's okay. Other beep sequences signal a hardware failure, and PC repair specialists compare these sequences with a chart to determine which component has failed.
3. The PC displays information on the attached monitor showing details about the boot process. These include the BIOS manufacturer and revision, processor specs, the amount of RAM installed, and the drives detected. Many PCs have replaced displaying this information with a splash screen showing the manufacturer's logo. You can turn off the splash screen in the BIOS settings if you'd rather see the text.
4. The BIOS attempts to access the first sector of the drive designated as the boot disk. The first sector is the first kilobytes of the disk in sequence, if the drive is read sequentially starting with the first available storage address. The boot disk is typically the same hard disk or solid-state drive that contains your operating system. You can change the boot disk by configuring the BIOS or interrupting the boot process with a key sequence (often indicated on the boot screens).
5. The BIOS confirms there's a bootstrap loader, or boot loader, in that first sector of the boot disk, and it loads that boot loader into memory (RAM). The boot loader is a small program designed to find and launch the PC's operating system.
6. Once the boot loader is in memory, the BIOS hands over its work to the boot loader, which in turn begins loading the operating system into memory.
7. When the boot loader finishes its task, it turns control of the PC over to the operating system. Then, the OS is ready for user interaction.

Also Beep Codes for mobo:
One short beep when displaying logo ----------> No error during POST
Long beeps in an endless loop ----------------> No DRAM install or detected
One long beep followed by three short beeps --> Video card not found or video card memory bad
High frequency beeps when system is working -> CPU overheated / System running at a lower frequency

Q: What about NO BEEPS?
No beeps ------------------------------------> Failed POST, Bad CPU??
or still bad mobo?

 

[Slartybart]

Thanks, I thought it might be custom build.

I'm off for this evening. Will prowl the forum later tonight.

A little light-hearted humor:
How do you press a button incorrectly?

I understand what you mean, words tickle me sometimes.

Same for my friend's box... must hold button longer to engage

 

[dTonic]

The following video may have my answer, Espeially since ther is no POST beep.

It also explains and additional way to reset CMOS using a jumper on the mobo.

22 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4e73dtkGxiY

Gonna try an alternate CMOS clearing (as per the mobo manual....using jumper pins) if this fails I am
planning a trip to my parents place next weekend, equipped with a second graphics card, an alternate power supply, spare IDE/SATA cables, smaller computer case, my two dogs, and hopefully at least half my brain! I may order a mobo and have it sent there so I could replace it, should this be the problem.