WIFI Security

seekermeister

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I thought that with WPA, SSID, MAC, encryption, etc. that WIFI would be fairly secure, but after reading some pages such as this:

Getting Phished: Why SSID Spoofing (Still) Matters - www.wi-fiplanet.com

I'm beginning to have doubts. I'm still waiting on a WIFI adapter to arrive, to complete my WIFI network, but my intent was to have an always on LAN, just for the purpose of giving my secondary computer access to streaming media from the internet, since the location where it shall be does not have a cable outlet. Now, I'm wondering if it is worth the risk?

While I shall continue to use only my primary for online banking and financial transactions, I am wondering if the WIFI needs to be disabled while that is being done? I intend to use RDP or an equivalent program to access the primary from the secondary, but only within the LAN, since I blocked port 3389 to prevent someone on the internet from using it, but that wouldn't stop someone on the WIFI from doing so...would it?

Is it possible to create a truly private ironclad secure WIFI LAN? If so, how?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
It is said that Wireless Security is an oxymoron. In other words, you can never be 100% secure with wireless.

However, you can tighten things down enough that the chance of you getting hacked is virtually nil. I'm sure that the FBI could find a way, if it was important to them, but I doubt you are that suspected.

So do what you can. Block all mac addresses not in your white list, use WPA-2 encryptions, don't broadcast your SSID, but most importantly, if you see a black van by the side of the road near your house, shut down your internet connection. :D
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600K OC'd @ 4620 MHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V Pro
Memory
16GB GSkill Sniper 2133 Mhz (4x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 480 SuperClocked+
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
2x Acer S273HLbmii 27"
Screen Resolution
2 x 1920x1080
Hard Drives
64GB Crucial M4 SSD

Storage: Hitachi 1TB 5400RPM, Samsung 1.5TB 5400RPM
PSU
Corsair HW Series 750w (modular)
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced Blue Edition
Cooling
CM Hyper 212+ CPU cooler, 3x 230mm + 1x 140mm case fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK320 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK320 (wireless)
Internet Speed
30 Mb/s : 2 Mb/s
Actually, I know that nothing with a computer is totally failsafe, including a hardwired LAN, but considering the fact that I know so little about WIFI, I really don't know what precautions to take. I think that I understand the ones that you mentioned (doubt that I have to worry about vans...but who knows), but the article that I linked above left me feeling that they would be inadequate. Commercials on TV about people who drive around looking for an insecure WIFI to do their dirty work on reinforces that feeling.

It took me a long time to become relatively comfortable with a regular connection to the internet, but over time I have acquired a degree of confidence with it. I think that the fact that I'm uncertain exactly what gets broadcast and under what circumstances is a large part of my uneasiness. Especially when RDP is involved.

Let's saying that I'm using RDP to watch a movie via the WIFI, does that mean that everything on my primary computer is being broadcast in a fashion that leaves the system vulnerable to a hacker? Even with RDP shutdown, wouldn't a hacker still be able to use his own RDP to do the same thing, even with SSID not being broadcast, only my own computer's MAC addresses being white listed, etc.?

I got the impression from that article, that the most important security aspect is not to be conspicuous or draw attention, by creating an appearance of being too secured. But that doesn't make a lot of sense to me.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
He could always use his own RDC to log in, but he'd be faced with your Windows password.

While in theory, as long as your signal is in the air, you can be hacked, you are not one of the "unsecured" ones, like my neighbor, who doesn't use encryption at all, or my other one, who uses WEP.

I don't think you have much to worry about. Don't do stuff that would make the Feds come after you, and as always, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your bank account for unusual activity.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600K OC'd @ 4620 MHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V Pro
Memory
16GB GSkill Sniper 2133 Mhz (4x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 480 SuperClocked+
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
2x Acer S273HLbmii 27"
Screen Resolution
2 x 1920x1080
Hard Drives
64GB Crucial M4 SSD

Storage: Hitachi 1TB 5400RPM, Samsung 1.5TB 5400RPM
PSU
Corsair HW Series 750w (modular)
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced Blue Edition
Cooling
CM Hyper 212+ CPU cooler, 3x 230mm + 1x 140mm case fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK320 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK320 (wireless)
Internet Speed
30 Mb/s : 2 Mb/s
There is no 100% but with a strong password without using real words and add other char as well will get you a fairly safe system. For WPA-2 cracking they must run your packets through a dictionary and if the password used is not within, it will not pick it up... To find more info on this visit Back-Track and read a little... GL :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba Satellite
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
CPU
Pentium(R) Dual-Core T4300 @ 2.10GHz
Motherboard
Toshiba Model KSWAA - Chipset Intel GL40 Rev 07
Memory
3 GB DDR2 PC2-6400 (400 MHz) Samsung M4 70T2864Q23-CF7
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Mobile Intel GMA4500M 32bit OS (64bit OS) dynamically
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Realtek ALC272-GR Software Sound
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16.0" HD TFT with TrueBrite Matrix colour LCD display
Screen Resolution
1366 x 768
Hard Drives
FUJITSU MJA2320BH G2-(S2) 320GB (5400RPM) Serial-ATA
Keyboard
Canadian Bilingual Keyboard 105 keys with 13 Function keys
Mouse
Touchpad Point device & Lexma USB Mouse
Internet Speed
Walking is Faster
Other Info
Wireless LAN Realtek RTL89191SE 802.11n PCI-E NIC + a
LAN Realek PCIe FE Family Controller and
TOSHIBA Software Modem
He could always use his own RDC to log in, but he'd be faced with your Windows password.

While in theory, as long as your signal is in the air, you can be hacked, you are not one of the "unsecured" ones, like my neighbor, who doesn't use encryption at all, or my other one, who uses WEP.

I don't think you have much to worry about. Don't do stuff that would make the Feds come after you, and as always, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your bank account for unusual activity.

Your last statement touches on one of my main concerns. Am I right in thinking that banking and financial transactions should only be done with WIFI totally disabled?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
I would prefer to do banking and other financial transactions over a wired (Ethernet) link, with the wireless part disabled. If you have no choice but to use the wireless connection, ensure that you are using the maximum possible security. This means using WPA2 and the other features available to you.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dwarf Dwf/11/2012 r09/2013
OS
Windows 8.1 Pro RTM x64
CPU
Intel Core-i5-3570K 4-core @ 3.4GHz (Ivy Bridge) (OC 4.4GHz)
Motherboard
ASRock Z77 Extreme4-M
Memory
4 x 4GB DDR3-1600 Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B (16GB)
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MSI GeForce GTX770 Gaming OC 2GB
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Realtek High Definition on board solution (ALC 898)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VA1912w Widescreen (VGA)
Screen Resolution
1440x900
Hard Drives
OCZ Agility 3 SSD 120GB SATA III x2 (RAID 0)
Samsung HD501LJ 500GB SATA II x2
Hitachi HDS721010CLA332 1TB SATA II
Iomega 1.5TB Ext USB 2.0
WD 2.0TB Ext USB 3.0
PSU
XFX Pro Series 850W Semi-Modular
Case
Gigabyte IF233
Cooling
1 x 120mm Front Inlet 1 x 120mm Rear Exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 3000 (USB)
Mouse
Microsoft Comfort Mouse 3000 for Business (USB)
Internet Speed
NetGear DG834Gv3 ADSL Modem/Router (Ethernet) ~4.0 Mb/s (O2)
Antivirus
Avast! 8.0.1497
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Optical Drive: HL-DT-ST BD-RE BH10LS30 SATA Bluray
Lexmark S305 Printer/Scanner/Copier (USB)
WEI Score: 8.1/8.1/8.5/8.5/8.25
Asus Eee PC 1011PX Netbook (Windows 7 x86 Starter)
The article referenced, seekermeister, is talking about connecting to public hotspots. You are setting up a home network so will not be accessing "Phony access points (APs) that use spoofed service set identifiers."

Although a couple years old, you may want to read The ABCs of securing your wireless network. Also be sure to use a strong password for your wireless network. Set up a security key for a wireless network. Then, as Jonathan said, any hacker still has to get past the Windows logon. In Network and Sharing, limit any files being shared to public and require a password for access.




http://www.sevenforums.com/member.php?u=11653
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 & Windows Vista Ultimate
It is said that Wireless Security is an oxymoron. In other words, you can never be 100% secure with wireless.

However, you can tighten things down enough that the chance of you getting hacked is virtually nil. I'm sure that the FBI could find a way, if it was important to them, but I doubt you are that suspected.

So do what you can. Block all mac addresses not in your white list, use WPA-2 encryptions, don't broadcast your SSID, but most importantly, if you see a black van by the side of the road near your house, shut down your internet connection. :D



I like the black van part. lol :)

I also limited my ip address range to the two devices in the network.

range 192.168.1.64 (being PS3)- 192.168.1.65 (being my PC). Some people might rip on this suggestion, but in my case, with use on LAN limited to pretty much myself, it works well for me, no probs. I will be adding X-Box 360 soon, and just have to allow one more ip allocation ie. 192.168.1.64 to 192.168.1.66

I have dhcp enabled, but have port forwarding setup for a sharing program on the PC and ports forwarded for voice chat and various PS3 required functions, with no worries of ip wandering, AS LONG as I turn the devices on in the proper order, but seeing my PC stays on nearly 24/7 it never loses it's assigned ip and the PS3 automatically takes the only other one available. It has been a few months now and I have not had to mess with my router, or other setting due to ip's not matching, and ports getting screwed up.

This is in a wired setup, but this might be another way to tighten up your security on the wifi as well. If you have many people logging in and out, and need a wider ip range to allow more ip's to be dished out, this might not be for you.

Just a thought, something that is working for me.

Tell me to butt out if I missed the mark here.....lol:p
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Laptop Acer Aspire 6930
OS
Windows 7 Professional
CPU
Intel Core2 Duo CPU T6400 @ 2.00GHz
Memory
3 GB
Graphics Card(s)
lowly Intel Express Chipset WHOPPING 64 mb dedicated.LOL
Monitor(s) Displays
26" RCA and 40" Haier, and laptop 17" screen
Screen Resolution
26":1366X768 40":1920X1080 Laptop Screen: 1366X768
Hard Drives
Onboard HDD 300 GB/
Seagate 1TB External HDD/
Verbatim 500 GB External HDD/
Firelite 160 GB USB HDD
Keyboard
Microsoft Intellitype Wireless Multimedia Keyboard 1.1
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Optical Mouse 2000
Other Info
Currently using Telus DSL. I currently have a 3.0 connection, but on wait list for 15.0 connection.
Even though there is a dropdown window for choosing the encryption method, the only option that it contains is TKIP + AES. How strong is that?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Look in your router for the encryption type, if you're not already.

Even though there is a dropdown window for choosing the encryption method, the only option that it contains is TKIP + AES. How strong is that?

Strong enough. ;)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Professional x64
CPU
Intel i7 2600K OC'd @ 4620 MHz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V Pro
Memory
16GB GSkill Sniper 2133 Mhz (4x4GB)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 480 SuperClocked+
Sound Card
Realtek High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
2x Acer S273HLbmii 27"
Screen Resolution
2 x 1920x1080
Hard Drives
64GB Crucial M4 SSD

Storage: Hitachi 1TB 5400RPM, Samsung 1.5TB 5400RPM
PSU
Corsair HW Series 750w (modular)
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced Blue Edition
Cooling
CM Hyper 212+ CPU cooler, 3x 230mm + 1x 140mm case fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK320 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK320 (wireless)
Internet Speed
30 Mb/s : 2 Mb/s
It is said that Wireless Security is an oxymoron. In other words, you can never be 100% secure with wireless.

However, you can tighten things down enough that the chance of you getting hacked is virtually nil. I'm sure that the FBI could find a way, if it was important to them, but I doubt you are that suspected.

So do what you can. Block all mac addresses not in your white list, use WPA-2 encryptions, don't broadcast your SSID, but most importantly, if you see a black van by the side of the road near your house, shut down your internet connection. :D



I like the black van part. lol :)

I also limited my ip address range to the two devices in the network.

range 192.168.1.64 (being PS3)- 192.168.1.65 (being my PC). Some people might rip on this suggestion, but in my case, with use on LAN limited to pretty much myself, it works well for me, no probs. I will be adding X-Box 360 soon, and just have to allow one more ip allocation ie. 192.168.1.64 to 192.168.1.66

I have dhcp enabled, but have port forwarding setup for a sharing program on the PC and ports forwarded for voice chat and various PS3 required functions, with no worries of ip wandering, AS LONG as I turn the devices on in the proper order, but seeing my PC stays on nearly 24/7 it never loses it's assigned ip and the PS3 automatically takes the only other one available. It has been a few months now and I have not had to mess with my router, or other setting due to ip's not matching, and ports getting screwed up.

This is in a wired setup, but this might be another way to tighten up your security on the wifi as well. If you have many people logging in and out, and need a wider ip range to allow more ip's to be dished out, this might not be for you.

Just a thought, something that is working for me.

Tell me to butt out if I missed the mark here.....lol:p

No. I'm open to all ideas, but I will have to consider if I can apply them to my situation. I don't have anything that needs to access the network, except two computers, and the router is set to identify them via their MACs. I think that would be equal to their IPs. However, in my first configuration attempt, I did enable DHCP, and it lists IP and MAC for both computers. Perhaps I should disable DHCP...I'm not sure.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
He could always use his own RDC to log in, but he'd be faced with your Windows password.

While in theory, as long as your signal is in the air, you can be hacked, you are not one of the "unsecured" ones, like my neighbor, who doesn't use encryption at all, or my other one, who uses WEP.

I don't think you have much to worry about. Don't do stuff that would make the Feds come after you, and as always, it's a good idea to keep an eye on your bank account for unusual activity.

Your last statement touches on one of my main concerns. Am I right in thinking that banking and financial transactions should only be done with WIFI totally disabled?

I do my banking over wireless. I have a strong password on the router and a strong password to login to my bank account.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P4P800-VM Motherboard Chipset: Intel 865G + ICH5
Memory
2.50 GB RAM
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GS
Sound Card
SoundMax Integrated Digital Audio (Chip)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX 1962 wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 80 GB
ST380215A ATA Device 18.6 GB
Western Digital "My Book" external hard drive 750 GB
Cooling
Fan based
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 v10 USB
Mouse
Logitec optic USB
Internet Speed
3.01 Mb/s download 0.64 Mb/s upload
The article referenced, seekermeister, is talking about connecting to public hotspots. You are setting up a home network so will not be accessing "Phony access points (APs) that use spoofed service set identifiers."

Although a couple years old, you may want to read The ABCs of securing your wireless network. Also be sure to use a strong password for your wireless network. Set up a security key for a wireless network. Then, as Jonathan said, any hacker still has to get past the Windows logon. In Network and Sharing, limit any files being shared to public and require a password for access.




http://www.sevenforums.com/member.php?u=11653

Curiously, your first link seems to discount the benefit of most settings, other than encryption method. Perhaps I'm making this harder than need be...don't know.

In Network and Sharing, limit any files being shared to public and require a password for access.
This idea throws me somewhat, because I wanted to be able to access any file from either computer. Unless I misunderstand, sharing with the "public" includes other computers on the network...yes/no? I was hoping that within my network access would be simple, but with a hard shell to outside access.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Look in your router for the encryption type, if you're not already.

Even though there is a dropdown window for choosing the encryption method, the only option that it contains is TKIP + AES. How strong is that?

Strong enough. ;)
I suppose, but since Opera uses 256 bit AES, 128 AES sounds weak. Of course, direct internet access does provide greater time and opportunity for a hacker to focus on one computer.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Watch this in this context - really funny:


 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP, Dell, Gateway, Toshiba - 4 laptops and 2 desktops
OS
Vista, Windows7, Mint Mate, Zorin, Windows 8
CPU
from 1.6GHz Duo to i7
Monitor(s) Displays
2x HP w2207
Hard Drives
5x HDD, 7x SSD, 12x Externals
Keyboard
with trackball - no mices
Mouse
Trackball mice
Internet Speed
DSL 6000
I had seen this and it is hilarious!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32 bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.00GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P4P800-VM Motherboard Chipset: Intel 865G + ICH5
Memory
2.50 GB RAM
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 7600 GS
Sound Card
SoundMax Integrated Digital Audio (Chip)
Monitor(s) Displays
ViewSonic VX 1962 wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 80 GB
ST380215A ATA Device 18.6 GB
Western Digital "My Book" external hard drive 750 GB
Cooling
Fan based
Keyboard
Microsoft Comfort Curve Keyboard 2000 v10 USB
Mouse
Logitec optic USB
Internet Speed
3.01 Mb/s download 0.64 Mb/s upload
:roflmao:

What a ditzy chick. That kind of made my day.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Laptop Acer Aspire 6930
OS
Windows 7 Professional
CPU
Intel Core2 Duo CPU T6400 @ 2.00GHz
Memory
3 GB
Graphics Card(s)
lowly Intel Express Chipset WHOPPING 64 mb dedicated.LOL
Monitor(s) Displays
26" RCA and 40" Haier, and laptop 17" screen
Screen Resolution
26":1366X768 40":1920X1080 Laptop Screen: 1366X768
Hard Drives
Onboard HDD 300 GB/
Seagate 1TB External HDD/
Verbatim 500 GB External HDD/
Firelite 160 GB USB HDD
Keyboard
Microsoft Intellitype Wireless Multimedia Keyboard 1.1
Mouse
Microsoft Wireless Optical Mouse 2000
Other Info
Currently using Telus DSL. I currently have a 3.0 connection, but on wait list for 15.0 connection.
There is no 100% but with a strong password without using real words and add other char as well will get you a fairly safe system. For WPA-2 cracking they must run your packets through a dictionary and if the password used is not within, it will not pick it up... To find more info on this visit Back-Track and read a little... GL :)
It appears that Back Track is simply a distro of Linux, which may be quite good...I don't know. However, my concern is WIFI security in general, regardless of the OS being used. So this is something that I will bookmark for future use, but it doesn't seem to fit what I'm looking for now.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
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