Wireless Adapter Security

seekermeister

Old School
Guru
Gold Member
VIP
Local time
3:04 PM
Messages
6,618
Location
Indian Territory
I believe that my HTPC has been hacked a couple of times over the past few months. Somewhat like before, I found it displaying a bunch of Windows settings windows, which I never selected, and some very basic things changed, like the fact that it is now displaying in high contrast, so that the colors are all wrong (can't remember how to change it).

The desktop never has this kind of problem, but then it is directly protected by the router (Cisco E3000). The HTPC connects wirelessly to the router via a Belkin F5D8055 adapter, which doesn't require joining the network. The router automatically sends a signal to the adapter on it's own.

I trying to figure the best way to provide wireless security, and since I do have an old ZyXel wireless router, I'm wondering if I could replace the adapter with it? It is a G band router, while the Cisco is an N. I'm pretty sure that the Cisco could work with the ZyXel, but I'm not sure that the ZyXel would work with the Cisco.

If there is a problem with the dual router setup, how would I continue using the Belkin adapter safely?


















)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Bruce ... somewhere in his 40's
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit SP1
CPU
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU @ 2.40GHz, 2400 MHz
Motherboard
INTEL/D975XBX2
Memory
4 GB
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SyncMaster 914v
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024
Hard Drives
2/500GB each ... ST3500630AS ATA Device.
One is not connected
PSU
Rocketfish 700 W
Case
G.Skill Gigabyte Chassis
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft PS/2 Mouse
Internet Speed
DSL
Antivirus
Avira Internet Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
ATI HDMI Audio
It happened again, just a few minutes ago. I had been watching some videos on the HTPC, and afterward went to the kitchen to fix myself a snack. I couldn't have been gone for more than 5 minutes, and when I returned, the Windows Personalization window was open again, and the wallpaper changed to sort of a psychedelic pastel starbust. It seems obvious that someone is finding it fun to mess with my computer. The moment that I saw that, I checked for all incoming WiFi signals, and all but mine were very weak. That would seem to indicate that someone was using my own network ID, but if that were so, it would seem that he would have access to my desktop also, but I have found no evidence of it. Just how strong of a connection does it require to access someone's computer?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Hi,

I think as long as there is a signal, then that is all that is needed. What sort of security options does the HTPC/Belkin have?

Regards,
Golden
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Golden Mk. I.4
OS
Windows 10 Pro x64 ; Xubuntu x64
CPU
Intel i7 860 @ 2.80 GHz O/C'ed to 4.0GHz
Motherboard
Gigabyte P55A-UD3R Rev.1. Award BIOS F13
Memory
16GB Corsair Vengance DDR3 @ 661 MHz Dual Channel (9-9-9-24)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA NVidia GTX 560 1024MB
Sound Card
Realtek Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual Samsung SyncMaster 2494HS
Screen Resolution
1920*1080 and 1920*1080
Hard Drives
1*Samsung 840 EVO 120GB SSD;
1*OCZ Vertex 2 60GB SSD;
2*Samsung F3 SpinPoint 1TB in RAID0;
1*Samsung F1 SpinPoint 1TB;
2*Western Digital 1TB External USB 3.0
1*Western Digital 500GB External USB 3.0
1*Seagate 500GB External USB 2.0
PSU
Thermaltake ToughPower QFan 750W
Case
Thermaltake Element S VK60001W2Z
Cooling
Corsair H60 Water Cooling, 2*230mm and 2*80mm case fans
Keyboard
Logitech G110
Mouse
Logitech MX518
To be honest, I will have to review that, because when I set it up last, I pretty much slapped it together. I think that instead of the Belkin utility, I used the Windows one instead. Obviously, I need to totally rework the system to plug the holes, but was trying to plug some holes in my understanding first. I know that I have attempted to connect to a very weak signal like I'm seeing now...in the past, and never had any luck with it. That is why I figured the same would be true for others. However, Windows doesn't show any of those weak signals as being connected.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
Alright lets take a step back before you over complicate this by throwing more hardware into the mix. What security settings do you have setup on the Wireless hub (aka., your Cisco router)? WPA, WPA2 or something else? The wireless adapter just communicates with the Wireless Access point, which handles all the security not the adapter.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Alienware Aurora ALX R4
OS
Windows 10 Pro (x64)
CPU
Intel Core i7-3930K (3.2GHz - 4.5GHz)
Motherboard
Alienware Aurora-R4 x79
Memory
4x Samsung 4GB PC3-12800 DDR3 (16GB 1600MHz)
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia Geforce GTX 690
Sound Card
SteelSeries Siberia Elite
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell UltraSharp U3011
Screen Resolution
2560x1600
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 256 GB, Seagate 1TB Desktop Hybrid HDD, 2x Western Digital 4TB Green HDD
PSU
875W Some Dell PSU <.<
Case
Alienware Aurora ALX
Cooling
Custom Liquid Cooling (EK CPU & GPU blocks) dual EK 480RAD
Keyboard
Logitech G710+ Mechanical
Mouse
Logitech G700s
Internet Speed
Verizon Fios (50 mbps average)
Other Info
Server: Intel NUC D54250WYK: i5-4250U, 16GB, 256 GB mSATA, Windows Server 2012 R2
It's WPA2. I'm sure that you are right, but I still fail to understand how the router appears to be protecting my desktop, but not my HTPC. Understand that the HTPC is not connected via a LAN, because I'm been too lazy to set it up. It just automatically receives a signal sent out by the router, which as far as I understand, only provides internet access, not access to the network. It seems highly unlikely to me, that the intrusion is coming from the internet, otherwise it would appear that the desktop would be the prime target, that only leaves someone hacking in locally. That is why I thought that it is a security problem at the HTPC/Belkin adapter.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
DIY
OS
W7x64 Pro, SuSe 12.1/** W7 x64 Pro, XP MCE
CPU
Phenom II 1090T w/Noctua NH-D14 /**4400+ X2 w/CM Hyper TX 3
Motherboard
ASRock 890FX Deluxe 4/**A8N-SLI
Memory
2 x 2GB Patriot PGS34g1600LLKA/**4x1GB Corsair VS
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX460 SC/**EVGA 8800GTS
Sound Card
Asus Xonar D2X/**Xonar D1
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer X233H, Dell E152FPc /**LG M237-WD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 & 1024x768/**1980x1080
Hard Drives
WDC 2TB, 1.5TB, 1TB, 500GB,Seagate 500GB , Maxtor 80GB /**500GB Seagate & WDC 1TB Black
PSU
CM RS600 w/ APC BX1000G/**Antec 500 TP w/ APC BX1000
Case
HAF922/**Antec 1040IIB
Cooling
3x200mm, 1x140 and 1x120mm/**5x80mm fans
Keyboard
Logitech Media USB/**Saitek Eclipse
Mouse
Cordless Trackman Wheel/**Ditto
Internet Speed
3.3Mbps
Other Info
SB 560 5.1 w/ Sennheiser RS140/**Creative T20 speakers, Dvico FusionHDTV7 Gold RT, Cisco E3000, HP 5510V AIO, Linksys E3000, Belkin F5U237 hub and **F5D8055 adapter
(** = 2nd rig)
A few things that I would recommend you doing are the following:
Reset your Router.

Change your SSID and disable broadcasting.

Use a new WPA2/AES Key... plenty of sites online offer free WPA2 generators.

Disable the ability for someone to access the router remotely. Only change your settings via the Desktop connected with the Ethernet cable.
Enable MAC address filtering.

On your laptop, change your Wi-Fi radio's MAC address to something random and add it to the MAC filter. You may also want to change the name of your laptop.

These are just a few suggestions that will help prevent this nonsense.

If you want to be proactive, you can also download Wireshark and let it scan your connection while you are away... it could help you discover who and how this person is accessing your network.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Desktop PC
OS
Windows 7 / Windows 8.1
CPU
Devils Canyon i7-4790K @ 4.8 GHz ~ 1.33v
Motherboard
Asus Z97 Deluxe
Memory
Corsair Vengeance Pro PC3-19200 DDR3 2400MHz
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 SuperClocked ACX 2.0
Sound Card
Realtek ALC1150 8 channels
Monitor(s) Displays
BenQ XL2720Z 27"
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 @ 144Hz
Hard Drives
SSD1: 512GB Samsung 850 Pro
SSD2: 1TB Samsung 850 EVO
SSD3: 1TB Samsung 850 EVO
HDD: 4TB Western Digital Black
Backup: Western Digital My Book Duo 8TB
PSU
Corsair HX1000i / CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1
Case
Corsair Graphite 780T
Cooling
Custom single loop liquid; CPU delidded; Aerocool DS Fans
Keyboard
Logitech G710 Cherry MX Blue
Mouse
LogitechG502 Proteus Core
Internet Speed
Download: 119MBs /Upload 39.12MBs via Optimum 101 Ultra
Antivirus
MYOB
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Cooling: EK-Supremecy MX Waterblock, XSPC AX360 Radiator, Swiftech MCP655 Series 12VDC D5 Pump, EK-RES x3 250 Reservoir, Primochill Ice Intensified Coolant, 11x AerocoolDS fans, Primochill Primoflex Avanced LRT Tubing
Back
Top