Solved External Hard disk Iomega 2 Tb recognized by pc but can't be formatted

The USB enclosure is responsible of translating stuff from SATA (the hard drive's ports) to USB, it has a circuit board and a controller. It's not just a metal case with screws, it has active components.

They can and do fail. And when that happens, the USB connection to the HDD can be flaky and unstable like in your case (sometimes they do exactly like your issues). "failure" does not always mean "does not power up at all", but also "powers up but malfunctions".

Only if you connect the hdd to a PC without using the usb enclosure, you can see if it's not an enclosure problem.
You cannot say that it isn't that before trying. :confused:
 

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effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
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Avira, free edition.
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Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
yeah as of right now i'm proceeding as you suggested, no partial scan anymore of course

i'll update you asap

cheers
 

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Yep, boba, You are absolutely right. I have already said that. Our posts actually crossed.:)
 

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double post!
 
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alright guys here's a little update

i checked the disk with seagate and every test marked it as GOOD.

now here's the deal: my pc after that can't find it ANYWHERE.
this hdd doesn't just exist anymore and can't be found no matter what and weith any program.
the only way i have to noticed it has been connected to my pc is that as soon as i plug its usb cable in, windows makes that common sound/jingle.

however it's like i haven't even connected it.

cant be found anymore no matter what on disk managment either...
 

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Important Data missing!

Did you check it with the HDD inside the enclosure or the bare HDD hooked up as a second drive on a desktop PC?

There are only two tests you should perform. One is the short test and another long test.

If the Short test passes, there is no need to run the long test. No harm if you do run it. Only thing is it will take a long time.

When you say all tests, what other tests do you mean?
 

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Important Data missing!

Did you check it with the HDD inside the enclosure or the bare HDD hooked up as a second drive on a desktop PC?

There are only two tests you should perform. One is the short test and another long test.

If the Short test passes, there is no need to run the long test. No harm if you do run it. Only thing is it will take a long time.

When you say all tests, what other tests do you mean?

i mean both short and long test

both gave the same good result

i don't have anyone who as of right now would let me put my faulty hdd on their pc.
i asked around but not a snigle frined of mine would agree and let me do it.
so of course, those tests were run with the hdd inside its enclosure
 

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OK, it is now certain that the interface electronics in the enclosure has gone bad. Earlier it was partially bad, not allowing to read/write the HDD. Now I think it is completely dead. Good riddance. This peculiar problem you had faced is the first of a kind I have seen.

The Seagate HDD inside has passed the test. I would think the data is still there safe.

You may buy a good brand external case , put this HDD inside and use. Handle the bare HDD carefully not touching the electronics board in it.( Leave it inside the external case till you decide what you want to do with it.)

With this, I think you can close this thread as solved unless you have any further queries.
 

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ok

But keep in mind that as soon as i connect it to my pc, it's immediately recognized by windows which makes that sound/juingle of "new hardware plugged in".

don't you think it means something?
 

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It means that some external device has been connected. That part of the interface circuit is still functional that gives that info to Windows. Earlier Windows could even get what it was, how much capacity etc., and only that part that was routing the read/write operation was faulty. Now even that is gone. That is all to that.

From a practical point of view, if Windows cannot recognise that an external drive has been connected, your external is dead. Taking only two major blocks - the interface card and the HDD we have determined that the interface card is faulty.(Some electronic blocks in the interface card itself may still be functional but that does not help)
 

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i don't have anyone who as of right now would let me put my faulty hdd on their pc.
You have written that you have a desktop PC in your specs. Afraid of using it? :p

Even if the hdd was shot, the PC it was connected to won't suffer any damage. At most it will refuse to boot until the HDD is removed. Although at this point i'm pretty confident that it's just a faulty enclosure.

don't you think it means something?
It means that the USB controller in the enclosure is still able to do the handshake with the usb controller in the PC (that is, establishing USB connection successfully). The damaged part seems to be the one handling SATA (the HDD's interface), it can interrogate the HDD's controller to get info about it, but can no more handle any data transfer in either direction.

Again, I had failed enclosures that were capable of triggering the beeping but were otherwise paperweights.

Being all this stuff a microcircuit carved with some kind of beam at a nanometer scale on a tiny piece of silicon inside of one of the chips in the enclosure, there is nothing that can be done to fix it. Affordably anyway.
 

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Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B35 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different b...NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufa...
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
There you are. More technical terms. :) Thanks bobafethotmail.:thumbsup:
 

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double post did realize it!
 
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i don't have anyone who as of right now would let me put my faulty hdd on their pc.
You have written that you have a desktop PC in your specs. Afraid of using it? :p

Even if the hdd was shot, the PC it was connected to won't suffer any damage. At most it will refuse to boot until the HDD is removed. Although at this point i'm pretty confident that it's just a faulty enclosure.

don't you think it means something?
It means that the USB controller in the enclosure is still able to do the handshake with the usb controller in the PC (that is, establishing USB connection successfully). The damaged part seems to be the one handling SATA (the HDD's interface), it can interrogate the HDD's controller to get info about it, but can no more handle any data transfer in either direction.

Again, I had failed enclosures that were capable of triggering the beeping but were otherwise paperweights.

Being all this stuff a microcircuit carved with some kind of beam at a nanometer scale on a tiny piece of silicon inside of one of the chips in the enclosure, there is nothing that can be done to fix it. Affordably anyway.

Bobba ( compaesano di dove sei esattamente?)

that makes perfect sense indeed
listen would you point me to a link (via pm *or email if you prefer) of what i should buy( i mean some brand/model you'd recommed)?
Then i'll buy it, put it on my hdd, post some pics and we should have this thread solved

I do have a desktop but it's a preistoric one from 1998
I don't think i can try to install it there LOL

About the case i'm about to buy, so all i need is extracting my hdd from its black case( which i have already done anyway), and put it inside the new one?
is that all?
is there anything else which needs to be done, like desmount some other part/connection?
Am i missing something here?
cheers
 

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haha, abito a Modena (Emilia-Romagna).

I can't guarantee that what I buy in Italy is going to be available in the UK or in the AU (as indicated by the flags under your name). :D In general, most enclosures with a brand (i.e. not coming straight from China) will do fine. Check the reviews of the device and make sure it has some kind of warranty to safeguard you in case it's dead out-of-the-box.

Still, Hamlet and hama are my brands of choice. Not high end by any lenght, but their stuff is cheap and works.

Please make sure you know well what kind of hard drive you have, either 2.5" or 3.5" and likely SATA.
Should be 3.5" and SATA from the data you posted somewhere above, but don't quote me on that.

You might want to upgrade the enclosure's interface to USB 3.0 (i.e. buying a USB 3.0 enclosure) or to an enclosure using e-Sata or a NAS box (Network Attached Storage, it connects to anything that can access drives through your home network), as it's the enclosure that turns the SATA interface from the drive into something else, the drive will do fine either way, as SATA is faster than any external enclosure port.

Although if it's just going to be attached to a PS3 (as you said it was its primary use before disaster struck) it's probably pointless as it has only USB 2.0 ports, and don't know if it can access network drives.

About the case i'm about to buy, so all i need is extracting my hdd from its black case( which i have already done anyway), and put it inside the new one?
Yes, the insides are pretty much the same on most enclosures.
The different part is where the screws are and how to disassemble/reassemble the metal box. Nothing you can't figure out on your own. ;)
 

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Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B35 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different b...NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufa...
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
woa guys this is both embarassing and ridiculus!!
listen what i just found out...

sea tools program wasn't scanning my external my hdd but my laptop's internal's...

i though it would have only listed the hdds of a specific brand not all the ones available to check...

Which means that my faulty hdd has become unfindable since yesterday. Just like i said on 1 previous post of mine, it just can't be found anywhere anymore.

Thinking about how i proceed with the various steps suggested here, it died after i tried to restore it with partition wizard.

damn just when i thought things were solved, i realized that instead things just got worse...

All i did with partition wizard was doing a partial recovery wizard because i had to stop the full one which was still at 2% after 28 hours.
But it looks like stopping its process killed my hdd for good
 

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Thinking about how i proceed with the various steps suggested here, it died after i tried to restore it with partition wizard.
Stop being so negative man. :p
Unless you tried the HDD alone or in a new enclosure, there is no way of knowing it. Any communication to the drive itself goes through the enclosure's controllers, if they don't work well the communication to the hard drive may be impossible or suck.

Also, "restoring" a partition is a fancy term for "reading the disk very well and writing on it again to fix issues", which does not damage a drive by itself, while it's certainly a significant stress for the enclosure controllers as it's a ton of data going in and out. You will likely have lost the contents, but i doubt Partition wizard did any damage to the drive's hardware (but could have given a Coup de grace to the already flaky enclosure).

So yeah, it may not work (wouldn't be the first time an enclosure killed the HDD inside as well, but it's rare and usually linked to power regulation circuitry, not the controllers), but I think it's worth trying with another enclosure or by connecting it to another PC first.
 

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Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B35 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different b...NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufa...
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
While I took my nap and was away from my PC, I was only thinking how Seatools was able to read your HDD when the interface was not allowing any communication (Read /write). The only answer that could satisfy me was somehow it could find its mate and bypass the controller. Now it is not.

Now coming to Partition Recovery Wizard:

The MBR and partition table reside on the first sector. ( All data is stored on the other sectors) If the first sector gets corrupted, Windows cannot read the drive and shows it RAW. ( It does not see the file system). What Partition Wizard does is to scan the drive find the partition information( the start and end address of each partition) and rewrite the partition table in the first sector. It in no way can kill the HDD or corrupt the data. In fact this is a well-established and proven method of data recovery from drives that read RAW in Windows.)

Yes, it is an intensive process (the scanning) and the stress could have killed the already dying interface conrtroller further. But it is of no consequence since it was already faulty and you couldn't have done any other thing except taking the HDD out and check whether atleast your drive is good.

The available indications are that it is still good. Why?

Unlike a scanning operation, the format operation involves writing. If all the formatting you had tried earlier had reached your drive and was interrupted inbetween, you would have lost all data and no files would be seen as you have seen before when connected initially.

Now tell me, if you had no place to go for the HDD, why did you remove it from the enclosure?( Remember I gave a mild chiding)

As I had indicated earlier, handling the HDD by not-so-knowledgeable guys can kill it with static electricity on your body. It is not something you can handle like a toffee can. And that is why I recommend it as a last resort.

Now come on boy, put it into another enclosure or hook it up to another Desktop and check your hard drive keeping your eyes wide open to select the correct HDD for test.

If your HDD is dead, it may well be because of your handling/mishandling and/or other causes and in no way because of running Partition Recovery Wizard. It was fine and all the data was shown earlier. Windows was seeing it as RAW because of the partly functional and partly non-functional interface electronics blocking any read or write operation to the drive. Now it is yet another reason why an external drive can be seen as RAW apart from a corrupted first sector. Nowhere else is it documented and this is being documented here for the first time.
 
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As I had indicated earlier, handling the HDD by not-so-knowledgeable guys can kill it with static electricity on your body. It is not something you can handle like a toffee can. And that is why I recommend it as a last resort.
While this is true, hard drives are less susceptible to static electricity damage as they have a pretty large and heavy metallic casing. Touching something metallic discharges the static electricity (and it takes a while to build up again), since the circuits are insulated from the casing for obvious reasons, it should likely be fine.

Nowhere else is it documented and this is being documented here for the first time.
Heh, I guess not a lot of people had the "luxury" of having to troubleshoot a horribly crappy batch of cheap Chinese enclosures like me. Well, spread the word bro.
 

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Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B35 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different b...NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufa...
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
custom built
OS
Win 7 Pro 64-bit 7601
CPU
AMD Phenom 9650 QuadCore, revision DR-B3
Motherboard
ASUS M4A78
Memory
5 GB yes I run 2x 2GB and 1x 1GB, different brand, spank me.
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce 9800 GT 512 Mb, unknown manufacturer.
Sound Card
Crappy Realtek Integrated Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Fujitsu Siemens P19-3P
Screen Resolution
1280 x 1024 x 32 bits @ 60 Hz Oh yeah, 4:3 rocks!
Hard Drives
(1) MAXTOR S TM3320613AS SATA Disk Device (2) STM35004 18AS SATA Disk Device (3) TOSHIBA USB 2.5"-HDD
PSU
whatever, around 450w
Case
Scavenged from old company PC, 10+ years old
Cooling
CPU fan, GPU fan, case fan, nothing fancy
Keyboard
Microsoft, PS/2, white.
Mouse
Optical, logitec.
Internet Speed
effective max speeds: 70-ish kB/s down 30-ish kB/s up
Antivirus
Avira, free edition.
Browser
Firefox with FXChrome to make it look like Google Chrome :P
Other Info
Was discarded by previous owner due to "horrible performance".
Was running Win Xp from a IDE drive. Yeah. Was a pain.
SATA II drive and Win7 and it zips away! Yay!
ok guys i bought a new enclosure off mediaworld(bobba knows what i'm talking about).
now what? should i desconnect the green board located beneath the hdd ? the one with the power switch and the usb plug ? how do i do that?
i see 2 screws only...
 

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