A8 High Heat, Correct Thermal

[Kingmilez1205]

Hello
could sombody please tell me the correct way to apply TIM to my A8-6600k as the "pea" makes it run hot on idle.
i have a EVO 212 on it so it has a decent cooler but TIM has never been my strong point.
a few people have mentioned trying to layer it paper thin over the entire top but the 212 was such a pest to install i dont wish to remove it without the correct infomation, unfortunally as i use my phone as a dongle and internet here is dial-up speed i cant view youtube saddly =[
would the paper thin advice work?
also an FYI ive overclocked it from 3.9 to 4.2 which ran fine on the stock cooler.

btw if im in the wrong place for this im sorry about that.

 

[oscer1]

hi here is the suggestions from artic silver Arctic Silver, Inc. - AMD® Application Methods#

 

[Kingmilez1205]

thank you for that but i did view that site and the PDF an it kinda confused me like no tomorrow, when it comes to TIM im extremely stupid as ive never done a aftermarket cooler on a pc in the 10 years ive worked on them. is there any advice you can give on correct application i mean is the thin film thing a better idea than the "pea"?

 

[oscer1]

does yours cpu have the metal cap or without? I do not know how to explain it better than the link.

 

[Kingmilez1205]

it has a heat spredder yes, it dosnt have an exposed dye

 

[oscer1]

Hello
could sombody please tell me the correct way to apply TIM to my A8-6600k as the "pea" makes it run hot on idle.

it should not be a pea size. should be a size of a grain of white rice. thinking you put to much on that will cause it to over heat.

 

[Kingmilez1205]

when i say "pea" i was honestly refering to not alot hence why i hyphend it, i know to much tim is bad, so what is your recomendation?
pull it off and thin film it like i was recomended?

 

[oscer1]

Well if it is running hot on idle I would start over. Cleaning off and adding new and making sure heat sink is fasten down correctly

 

[Kingmilez1205]

not being rude im going to take this elsewhere as this hasnt be awnsered fully, i only asked one question is the film advice a good idea or not and FYI the Evo 212 is fastened properly as all 4 screws are down via tourqe so all 4 are seated to the point that the cooler sits square

 

[oscer1]

well to answer the question if the layering paper thin would be better then their is only one way to find out is to try it. but it is your choice to seek help else were. but I am sure other here will give their advice.

you never said what your idle a load temps were so we really do not know if its really running hot or not.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Now what you have to understand is that CPU and heatsink surfaces are not as flat as they appear - at a microscopic level.
So like Oscer I use the Arctic Silver products as I have had no problems with it or the many re compounding that I have down.

Now what you need to do first is to prepare both surfaces and for that I use these Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean one solution is to clean and one is to "prepare" the surfaces for maximum contact with the surfaces. The I use this Arctic Silver Incorporated - Arctic Silver 5 which contains elemental silver which has the greatest thermal coefficient of all metals.
My process is to globe ones hands with some vinyl gloves and then proceed to clean the old compound off those surfaces I use clean kitchen towel or lint free micro weave cloth to do that. The n I applied the preparation solution and leave for a couple of minutes and clean off again using the same method as the cleaner . I renew my glove/s and then gently smear the compound onto both surfaces with my gloved index finger (which finger is not relevant of course so that the warmth from my finger makes the compound a little less viscous especially when applying to the cold surfaces. This ensures the compound is a) spread evenly across the whole surface area and b) is gently forced into the microscopic scratches and indents on those surfaces whilst forcing out any trapped air. The thickness is not of any real concern the coverage is.
Onc e that is done then a small rice grain sized piece of the compound is applied to the centre of the CPU surface and the cooler firmly reattached. The compound applied like that will "bleed out" across those prepared surfaces and as general rule will not ooze out of the edge of the CPU.

Now there some that will just wipe the compound away if soft and some will advocate alcohol which may be okay but personally I prefer to know that those surfaces are absolutely clean (s they can be) and in complete contact across their areas. Now whatever you do if you have compound that is hard never use anything metallic to clean it off it needs to be softened first with some small amount of solvent and there some on the market based on citrus oil for example but make sure they do not contain any abrasive materials and the they need to be cleaned away first too.

 

[Kingmilez1205]

my mistake sorry about that, 59c give or take as it flutuates between 50 and 65 ish when idle (acording to speed fan and AI Suite 3), when i try gaming EG GTA V my pc shuts down which i know is the APU getting to hot as i had a second screen and it showed 77c a few mins before it just shutdown, ill give the paper film a go. which ever result ill post back if it fails or works (Y)

p.s i know that imbetween the heatspreadder and the heatsink there is mirco "holes/bubbles" im also aware on how to clean them, in the job i do i dont apply the TIM i just rmove the components and clean them, i wont use Arctic silver personally as i dont have the slightest clue on how to do it, even we dont use it, although i did have a friend use it on my Xbox360 and PS3 60gb and only the xbox is still alive, the ps3 died due to electromatic static becuase of AS5

ill try the film method and post back soon once ive ran Prime to see if it worked which i should of done in the first place

 

[ICIT2LOL]

i wont use Arctic silver personally as i dont have the slightest clue on how to do it,

Well mate your decision even I just described in some detail how to use Arctic Silver it is quite simple though the products are a tad more expensive than some others. So what part don't you understand just to satisfy my curiosity?

 

[Megahertz07]

There are many settings to explain a "hot" even if in idle.
Is it overclock? Is the CPU allowed to run at lower clock when idle? Under Windows, what is your Power plan?
Every performance plan has a CPU high and low settings. If both are 100% the CPU is always at 100% even when idle.
As Oscer asked, what is "hot"?
Remember, TIM is only to guarantee there is no air between the CPU and the Heat sink. The thinner it is, the better it is.
Just apply a drop of a good paste (silver oxide) on the center of the CPU, tight a little, rotate the heat sink on small movements to squeeze the paste and then tight it firmly (till all 4 screws are down). Rotate the screws alternately, one rotation each.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Well you have all the info now as for the zinc oxide I am not sure because it can go hard in a shorter space of time than Arctic Silver or most other compounds simply because the oils (typically castor oil) binding the two elements in the compound together "evaporates" for want of a better term in fact I have seen it become rock hard.

I am quite confused over the paper that was mentioned particularly because paper is in itself quite a good thermal insulator.

 

[Layback Bear]

If Arctic Silver and following their method of applying it doesn't solve a over heating problem, then something else is causing a over heating problem.

Arctic Silver does work when done correctly. I have used it for years on CPU's and Video Cards.

 

[Megahertz07]

...although i did have a friend use it on my Xbox360 and PS3 60gb and only the xbox is still alive, the ps3 died due to electromatic static becuase of AS5

Excuse me, but thermal paste doesn't cause any electrical or electromagnetic damage.
You asked for help, but you're not listening to us.
By the way, if you apply the "film method" the only results will be that, when you remove the film, most of the CPU surface will have TIM applied irregular and that will hold air. Definitely not a good idea.

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Arctic Silver does work when done correctly. I have used it for years on CPU's and Video Cards.

Excuse me, but thermal paste doesn't cause any electrical or electromagnetic damage.
You asked for help, but you're not listening to us.
By the way, if you apply the "film method" the only results will be that, when you remove the film, most of the CPU surface will have TIM applied irregular and that will hold air. Definitely not a good idea.

Now in danger of sounding monotonous applying the Arctic Silver using my method which includes making the compound a little less viscous so enhancing the penetration of any surface defects for the machining of those surfaces and also forcing out those minuscule amounts of air I am also at a loss as to what to advise you.
This is not rocket science just very basic physics. But you seem to come up with another idea or version of applying compound and not always to what we are here to help you with.