Friend is bringing over a PC tomorrow to connect HD alone to rescue data, test for infection, run Hitachi Drive Fitness Test and whatever else will confirm its status.
You think bootable Windows Defender is good enough or should I use another?
I remember reading some threads here where running Windows Defender offline caused problems.
I agree with TVeblen to check with Security experts as to what might be the best/safest bootable security cleanup tools.
Gyration wireless, Logitech wireless, Dell USB wired
Mouse
Gyration wireless, Logitech wireless, V7 USB wired
Internet Speed
Spectrum - 100Mbps D / 10Mbps U
Antivirus
Avast, MBAM3, EMET, WinPatrol
Browser
Pale Moon, Firefox, IE
Other Info
2 multi-boot PC's
Mainly HTPC/Office/Gen purpose (no gaming).
Trendnet USB KVM.
LG DVD burner/Blue Ray Player.
Tray system for removable SATA backup drives.
Not currently OCd, under-volted.
I use Hybrid sleep, rarely re-boot or shutdown.
Hauppauge HD-PVR, Avermedia PCIe TV Tuner, Hauppauge PCI TV Tuner.
PSU found by PO at 8 am this morning. Installed, same BIOS post then nothing. Ran Win7 Repair disk to get data and it repaired Windows in one go. Started to decent performance but obviously heavily infected with Trojan, spyware including Condit and other browser hijackers. Cleaned up now with fast performance.
Crystal Disk Info says the SMART status is Caution, but it's only the frequently-seen Pending Sector Errors count of 100 each. I see this a lot and it never seems to get worse. Will run Hitachi DFT to be sure though before sending back the reserve HD.
HDFT CD will not detect drive even if I change SATA controller to IDE as suggested online. Running WD Data Lifeguard from Hiren's Boot CD now. Will run Seatools bootable off Yumi after that.
Question is: I dont' really need repair since I would just replace drive if it finds problems. But will I get just as accurate diagnostics for a Hitachi HD from bootable WD and Seatools? That's all I care about now.
The hairy part on this one was the PSU going out just as I got it home and plugged it in. That is way above my installation/OS repair pay grade so am really thankful I had you guys to steer me.
Today I was so nervous plugging in the new PSU in the cramped Slimline case I had Gary on the phone with me for support after I reached around to power it up with no response. We traced the wire from that switch to the DVD drive so I thought I had it plugged in the wrong place. Then I realized I was reaching for the DVD drive button. What an amateur!
If you can get the button to change to "Good", this may give you a little bit of time, but the drive should be replaced soon.
Way back when, replacing a PSU was my first experience with any PC hardware work, a few months after that I put all the hardware from that PC into a new case, basically my first build. You are on your way to tinkerer-dom now.
My Computer
At a glance
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No buil...16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GBASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
Mechanical drives and flying heads.... when any diag finds and fixes bad sectors, the drive is failing. The coating on the discs might be scratched and that leads to more head crashes (bad sectors).
The perfomance of the drive degrades as the heads seek a place to read or write the data making multiple attempts to read.
I've had drives in service for a while after moving bad sectors. Did I trust them - nope. I knew it was only a matter of time before the performance or reliability made the drive more trouble than it was worth - chkdsk continually moved the bad sectors. I replaced the drive(s) when I could afford it.
But that was on my machine having a few years of experience with HD.
Since this isn't your machine and you have the replacement HD, I'd leave the original HD out of the equation. I wouldn't think about using the original HD as a secondary, because of possible future problems. You've been though enough stress on this project.
Glad you made it through all of this Greg. The next one will be easier
Read the Manual for HDFT and it doesn't even work for Intel controllers, must load a controller for any other. I spoke with Usasma who has it in his HD Diagnostic tutorial we link here and he doesn't use it any longer, uses Seatools or WD Diagnostics including their repair function if offered. But I had to run WD tool from Hirens since it hasn't been available for years now either.
WD Data Lifeguard bootable offered repair here and then was unable to complete, maybe because it isn't their drive.
Seatools doesn't see it. I'll try another bootable HD test from Hirens just to see what the prob is, then swap in the new drive.
This changed the Disk to Good after moving those sliders to the left. Not enough?
Running Disk Check now, trying to find another scan so I can get a definitive diagnosis. Would at least like to know for sure. HD Tune or Spinrite best?
This changed the Disk to Good after moving those sliders to the left. Not enough?
Running Disk Check now, trying to find another scan so I can get a definitive diagnosis. Would at least like to know for sure. HD Tune or Spinrite best?
It shows the HDD is not all garbage yet, but it could run just fine for 2 years or fail in the next two minutes.
I'm not real familiar with Spinrite, but those who have used say it works wonders. IT is time consuming as it has to find bad sectors, see if the data in them is readable, write it to a good sector and mark the bad ones as unusable so no more write attempts are made. It may be interesting to see how the HP Diag tool see the drive since Crystal Disk was run on it.
As I understand it all rotating HDDs have bad sectors, even when new. The controllers on the drives now can bypass them without one having to do it manually. More can become bad with use though, which I assume is beyond the controller's ability.
My Computer
At a glance
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No buil...16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GBASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.