Artifacts 30s after turning on...???

Lee K

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Got this problem, just started, allows me just enough time to get into my bios to check on system before computer locks. My voltage is 11.77, EVGA tech support said that this card needs between 11.9 to 12.2 voltage to run.

Because only 11.77 volts with no load the tech support thought it might be the power supply. I would probably agree there. I can try to switch out to another power supply but not going to be easy.

What do you think, feedback appreciated.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon II X4 640 Quad Core Processor AM3 3.0GHZ 2MB L2 C
Motherboard
GA-890GPA-UD3H (rev. 3.1)
Memory
Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-1066
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6850 775MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5
Sound Card
Realtek (onboard) dig. out to Yamaha RX-V573
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" Smart TV HD UN32EH5300F
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 i
Hard Drives
2 x SSD (OS) & 1 x HDD (data)
PSU
Antec 850W
Case
Lion Li
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
i-rocks (usb)
Mouse
Logitec G700S (run usb)
Internet Speed
325 KB/sec
Antivirus
Bitdefender Total Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Windows Base Score: 5.3
This is a do it all PC / Media Center with sound output to an external receiver. Plays all games, TV, Video, all controlled via a tablet. A second computer acts as a backup for data, and in case the main goes down.

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Me
OS
Win 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
FX-8350 @ 4.6 GHz so far
Motherboard
Asus M5A97 EVO
Memory
ADATA XPG V1 Series Black 8GB DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire R9 270x Dual-X
Sound Card
Xonar DGX w/ Corsair Vengence 1300
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S232HL Abid
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3
500 GB Seagate 7200.12
PSU
Antec Earthwatts 650W Green
Case
Antec Three Hundred
Cooling
Cooler Master 212 EVO
Keyboard
Logitech G510
Mouse
Logitech G500s
Internet Speed
35000/3000
Thanks I shall do a test, I have a good multi-meter.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon II X4 640 Quad Core Processor AM3 3.0GHZ 2MB L2 C
Motherboard
GA-890GPA-UD3H (rev. 3.1)
Memory
Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-1066
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6850 775MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5
Sound Card
Realtek (onboard) dig. out to Yamaha RX-V573
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" Smart TV HD UN32EH5300F
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 i
Hard Drives
2 x SSD (OS) & 1 x HDD (data)
PSU
Antec 850W
Case
Lion Li
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
i-rocks (usb)
Mouse
Logitec G700S (run usb)
Internet Speed
325 KB/sec
Antivirus
Bitdefender Total Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Windows Base Score: 5.3
This is a do it all PC / Media Center with sound output to an external receiver. Plays all games, TV, Video, all controlled via a tablet. A second computer acts as a backup for data, and in case the main goes down.
I tested the voltage with a mulitmeter and it is down to like 11.1 volts in crashed state, this could still mean the video card is fried. The power supply does test like 11.67 unloaded (thats not hooked up to anything) so that seems weak (outside the 11.9 - 12.2 range for operation)

I tried to see if my older computer power supply would fit to test video card but it doesn't have the PCI-E connector, so going to have to take the unit in to make sure. It could be both the power supply and video card, or a weak power supply and aging video card. I think the mainboard is okay as I can get into the bios in the first half minute before monitor gets artifacts and freezes. The real test would be to pull the vid card out and just stick it in another computer, unfortunately I don't know anyone with a PCI slotted mainboard. Have to take it in and get confirmation, the vid card is under warranty, the power supply and mainboard are inexpensive to replace, the vid card is not...
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon II X4 640 Quad Core Processor AM3 3.0GHZ 2MB L2 C
Motherboard
GA-890GPA-UD3H (rev. 3.1)
Memory
Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-1066
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6850 775MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5
Sound Card
Realtek (onboard) dig. out to Yamaha RX-V573
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" Smart TV HD UN32EH5300F
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 i
Hard Drives
2 x SSD (OS) & 1 x HDD (data)
PSU
Antec 850W
Case
Lion Li
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
i-rocks (usb)
Mouse
Logitec G700S (run usb)
Internet Speed
325 KB/sec
Antivirus
Bitdefender Total Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Windows Base Score: 5.3
This is a do it all PC / Media Center with sound output to an external receiver. Plays all games, TV, Video, all controlled via a tablet. A second computer acts as a backup for data, and in case the main goes down.
Resurrecting this thread as I believe I have new information I have recently discovered. I believed I had complete failure on my replacement 8800 GTS (under lifetime warranty). I decided to test it on another system and it gave a post screen. So I put it back in on my new main board and it runs for a while and starts producing artifacts, sometimes failing (black screen but OS not reset), sometimes restarting OS. This time I was able to have it running long enough to get a temperature reading on it and it is running hot, hence the artifacts and subsequent failure.

Now this gets me to thinking, at times these cards have worked flawlessly and although they due run hot they were running maxed out games with no problem. Like run for months at a time, then suddenly problems.

I started playing around with nTune, then Riva and was able to get this same card to absolutely clear up and run stable again. All by setting the fan manually to the 80 % range instead of auto setting fan speed by load or temperature. I can hear the fan jump to life from the regular driver controled auto speed control setting to the manual run at this setting. After more research people are saying set it to 100 %.

So why did it run for so long, and reliably, then fail? Then get a replacement unit to have do the exact same thing? Now I remember when I talked to EVGA support the first time, I remember the agent telling me about a botched nVidia driver that set the fan to 0 speed and fried every card that loaded that driver within seconds of getting into the OS. The driver was pulled but not fast enough, wondering was there a class action over this? Hmmm. I believe the newer nVidia drivers are not setting correct time speeds for the GPU cooling fan or over-riding proper cooling speeds under load. My problems seemed to always creep in when I updated my drivers, co-incidence? Or not?

Older expensive video card with new nVidia drivers equals video toast. You seem to have set fan speeds manually. Under stress and load, it is not speeding up the fan properly. These cards are known to reliably run at 75 deg C. But when you get much higher they start flaking out.

Will they ever get heat under control for video cards, this seems to be the problem, with excellent CPU coolers available, the CPU cooling seems way ahead of the GPU market.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Athlon II X4 640 Quad Core Processor AM3 3.0GHZ 2MB L2 C
Motherboard
GA-890GPA-UD3H (rev. 3.1)
Memory
Mushkin Enhanced Silverline Stiletto 8GB 2X4GB PC3-1066
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon HD 6850 775MHZ 1GB 4.0GHZ GDDR5
Sound Card
Realtek (onboard) dig. out to Yamaha RX-V573
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung 32" Smart TV HD UN32EH5300F
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 i
Hard Drives
2 x SSD (OS) & 1 x HDD (data)
PSU
Antec 850W
Case
Lion Li
Cooling
Stock
Keyboard
i-rocks (usb)
Mouse
Logitec G700S (run usb)
Internet Speed
325 KB/sec
Antivirus
Bitdefender Total Security
Browser
IE 11
Other Info
Windows Base Score: 5.3
This is a do it all PC / Media Center with sound output to an external receiver. Plays all games, TV, Video, all controlled via a tablet. A second computer acts as a backup for data, and in case the main goes down.
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