Can't See HD Sometimes

bigmck

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My partitions are setup as follows. On one HD I have my C: and D: drives. My DVD is drive E: On my other HD are partitions F: and G:. Sometimes when I boot, F: and G: do not show in Computer. If I reboot, they show and things are fine. I am wondering if having my DVD as E: makes any difference. Should it be the last drive? Thanks,
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Do the F and G show in disk managment even when not in Computer?

Also in Folder Options make sure you have the item in the red box below selected (ticked).
folders.PNG
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
Thanks for the tip. Next time they don't show, I will check Disk Management. I will also make sure the referenced place is checked.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Did you install 2nd drive with out doing a reinstall of OS. Hard drives are always properly sequenced and are always first in order then any secondary drives...ie floppy, cd/dvd rom. Using disk management as Britton30 suggested to re-add your drives should reactivate them and should properly show them but they will still be out of order. Only a re-install of the OS will correct that. You can reassign drive letters to put them in proper sequence but sometimes this can cause some data corruption or lost data.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-MA790X-DS4
Memory
GSkill 4 X 2 GB PC 8500
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon HD 6790 D
Sound Card
On board RealTek HD
Monitor(s) Displays
Dual monitors:Samsung SyncMaster S20B300
Screen Resolution
1600 X 900
Hard Drives
Seagate Barracuda 1TB (primary)
Seagate Barracuda 2 X 320 GB
PSU
Ultra X4 750 watt fully modular
Case
Thermaltake Overseer RX 1 full tower
Cooling
Core-Contact 92 mm CPU Cooler
Keyboard
Logitech G510
Mouse
Razor DeathAdder
Internet Speed
50/5 Mbps UL/DL
Other Info
Optical: Super Muliti DVD burner w/lightscribe, Hauppauge WinTV HVR-1800
Reassigning drive letters on data partitions is perfectly safe and quite mundane...sorry, where did you get the idea that doing so can cause data loss or corruption? :huh:
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom-built
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 32-bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4GHz
Motherboard
Asus PL5D2
Memory
4GB DDR2-667 (4x1GB in dual-channel config)
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce 9800 GT
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer P236H
Screen Resolution
1920x1200 (DVI)
Hard Drives
OCZ SSD Vertex Plus 60GB SATA (Firmware 3.55), 64MB cache
Hitachi HD321KJ SATA, 320GB, 7200rpm, 16MB cache
PSU
Antec TruePower 2.0
Case
Cooler Master Centurion
Cooling
Too many fans
Keyboard
Standard
Mouse
Microsoft wireless optical mouse
Internet Speed
AT&T U-verse (18mbit/sec)
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Other devices:
Compaq CQ-60 laptop
Google Nexus 7 (2012) tablet
Nvidia SHIELD tablet (US/LTE)
Hardkernel ODROID-XU single-board computer (Samsung Exynos 5420)
When I installed Win 7, I had OS and Docs on C: drive. I later got a second HD and added it. I made two partitions on my first drive C: for the OS and D: for my Docs. I made E: the DVD and then the new HD had F: for my OS backup and G: for my Doc backup. == I did not install the OS a second time. I just moved my Docs to D: partition.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Did you install 2nd drive with out doing a reinstall of OS. Hard drives are always properly sequenced and are always first in order then any secondary drives...ie floppy, cd/dvd rom. Using disk management as Britton30 suggested to re-add your drives should reactivate them and should properly show them but they will still be out of order. Only a re-install of the OS will correct that. You can reassign drive letters to put them in proper sequence but sometimes this can cause some data corruption or lost data.

Not sure where you got that info but the only time you can run into problems is when you add a drive and the order is changed in BIOS and the boot drive gets removed from the Boot List.
I remove and swap drives quite a bit, probably more often than an average person. I just recently removed 4 drives and swapped them with 2TB drives.
Most recent swap was last night, pulled out a 400GB and installed a 2TB in it's place.
Also, I am still on my original Win7 Ultimate x64 install from August of 2009 and have had no real issues with my setup.
Did a mobo/cpu/ram swap as well as a GPU swap too.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
Did a mobo/cpu/ram swap as well as a GPU swap too.

Zepher -- I have been thinking about upgrading my CPU. You are saying I would not have to reinstall Windows? Just do the switch and I would be good to go?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Did a mobo/cpu/ram swap as well as a GPU swap too.

Zepher -- I have been thinking about upgrading my CPU. You are saying I would not have to reinstall Windows? Just do the switch and I would be good to go?
You should be able to swap your CPU without a reinstall. If however you'd also add/change, say, RAM or GFX card at the same time, you might have to go to MS's robo call re-activation. But not a reinstall.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
Did a mobo/cpu/ram swap as well as a GPU swap too.

Zepher -- I have been thinking about upgrading my CPU. You are saying I would not have to reinstall Windows? Just do the switch and I would be good to go?

I've done 4 mobo/cpu/ram swaps so far with Win 7 and all them re-started, found the drivers, rebooted, and then ran fine.
All the swaps I did were Intel to Intel and AMD to AMD. I didn't do any cross-swaps, but a few members on another forum I am on have done AMD to Intel with no issues either.
Just needs to be re-activated after the swap is done. All were retail Windows and the activate button was all that was required to re-activate.

If you are just doing a CPU swap then it should be pretty simple, drop it in and turn it on.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
Thanks very much to Britton and Zepher.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
You're very welcome!
Be careful when removing the CPU cooler so as not to pull the CPU out of its socket before you release it. I've done that but fortunately no damage to the socket.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
HDD Brand

You might want to check the Internet to see if there are any reported problems with your brand of HDD.

My WD Green drives (1.5 TB & 2 TB) had "8 second head parking" turned on.

Using the WD utility, I was able to turn the parking off, on my 1.5 TB HDD.
The 2 TB HDD still parks every 40 minutes or so. :(
I sometimes experience a delay when I try to read that drive.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
n/a
OS
W7 Ultimate SP1, LM19.2 MATE, W10 Home 1703, W10 Pro 1703 VM, #All 64 bit
CPU
AMD Phenom II x6 1100T, 3.3 GHz
Motherboard
ASUS M4A88T-M/USB3 (AM3)
Memory
12GB DDR3 1333 G-Skill (4GB x 2), G-Skill (2GB x 2)
Graphics Card(s)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660
Sound Card
Realtek?
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S23B350
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
WD Green 2TB (SATA), WD Green 3TB (SATA), WD Blue 4TB (SATA), WD Blue 6TB (SATA)
PSU
Cooler Master
Case
Antec GX300 Tower
Cooling
3x Antec TRICOOL 120mm Fans
Mouse
Wired Optical
Internet Speed
DSL
Antivirus
Avast
Browser
Pale Moon (64 bit)
Other Info
2018-12-27 Upgraded HDDs
2015-12-10 Upgraded case, graphics card, storage
2015-08-15 Upgraded motherboard & RAM
2015-07-15 Upgraded LM17.1 to LM17.2
My HD disappeared again last night. It did not show in Disk Management.
After I rebooted, it was there again. I have u/l this view also. This isn't a big problem, but just annoying. I thought one of you might have a suggestion to solve this. == I just noticed that my C: drive is listed as Disk 1. Should it be Disk 0 and could this be the problem? Thanks,
 

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Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Are you in the habit of starting your PC with the external drive already connected? What if Windows doesn't see F: and G: after startup, do you unplug the external drive and then plug it back in to see if it's seen then?
Your screenshot showing the internal drive (with Windows on it) as Disk 1 makes me suspect you're leaving the other drive plugged in during a restart...maybe that's not the best way to do it (just my personal opinion though).
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom-built
OS
Windows 7 Professional SP1 32-bit
CPU
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 2.4GHz
Motherboard
Asus PL5D2
Memory
4GB DDR2-667 (4x1GB in dual-channel config)
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce 9800 GT
Sound Card
Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer P236H
Screen Resolution
1920x1200 (DVI)
Hard Drives
OCZ SSD Vertex Plus 60GB SATA (Firmware 3.55), 64MB cache
Hitachi HD321KJ SATA, 320GB, 7200rpm, 16MB cache
PSU
Antec TruePower 2.0
Case
Cooler Master Centurion
Cooling
Too many fans
Keyboard
Standard
Mouse
Microsoft wireless optical mouse
Internet Speed
AT&T U-verse (18mbit/sec)
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Other devices:
Compaq CQ-60 laptop
Google Nexus 7 (2012) tablet
Nvidia SHIELD tablet (US/LTE)
Hardkernel ODROID-XU single-board computer (Samsung Exynos 5420)
I don't have an external drive. Both of them are internal.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
I formerly thought the boot drive had to be Disk 0, but was corrected. As long as the boot volume or partition is the only one marked as Active, it should be fine. Windows is annoying at fiddling with drive assignments.
You can try swapping the cables on the mobo.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built Desktop By DataTech
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate X64 SP1
CPU
Intel i5-2550K, Differing ~4.4-4.8GHz No built in GPU
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3
Memory
16GB G.Skill Sniper 1866MHz @ 2133MHz 2x8GB
Graphics Card(s)
ASUS GTX650TIB-DC2OC-2GD5, (650TI Boost)
Sound Card
Onboard Realtek 5-1
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung P2570HD
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256GB SSD for OS, 500GB Seagate Constellation (Enterprise drive) for Data
PSU
Corsair HX650W
Case
Inwin Dragon Rider
Cooling
Hyper 212 EVO w/two Noctua fans, push-pull, @1300 RPM
Keyboard
E-Z Eyes, bright yellow keys with large characters
Mouse
steelseries SENSEI Laser Pro Gaming
Internet Speed
48-51Mbs Mbs down, 11 Mbs up Xfinity Cable
Antivirus
Norton Internet Security 2013
Browser
IE 10, Opera, Pale Moon if needed
Other Info
4 case fans, LG BluRay-RE, ASUS DVD-RW, Mr. Fusion power supply, 1.21 gigawatts.
I formerly thought the boot drive had to be Disk 0, but was corrected. As long as the boot volume or partition is the only one marked as Active, it should be fine. Windows is annoying at fiddling with drive assignments.
You can try swapping the cables on the mobo.

With my luck if I switched cables, the OS drive would be the one that disappeared then. :)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Thanks for the help and the Avatar.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Does the drive not showing up only happen on a cold boot?
It could be the mobo not waiting for the drive to ID itself before proceeding to POST and going into Windows.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HAL-9000
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
Intel i7 3770K
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
16GB DDR3 1333 Corsair XMS3
Graphics Card(s)
XFX HD6950 2GB EyeFinity
Sound Card
Logitech G35 & Sennheiser PC135 & VIA HD
Monitor(s) Displays
23" HP 2310e, 23" Samsung B2230, 21.5" Viewsonic
Screen Resolution
5760x1080
Hard Drives
16TB of Storage
128GB & 256GB Crucial M4 SSD's, 2X 1TB WD Black, 3x 2TB WD, 3x 2TB Samsung F4, 1.5TB Seagate, WD 500GB,
PSU
Antec True Power New 650watt
Case
Cooler Master HAF-932
Cooling
Corsair H60 Hydro Cooler, 3x 230mm Fans, 2x120mm Fan
Keyboard
Logitech G15 and G13
Mouse
Logitech G700 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
50/10 Mbit
Other Info
Speakers : Alesis M1 Active Mk2 Studio Monitors , APC RS 1200 UPS, HP 4500DN Color Laser, HP P1006 mono Laser, Kodak 8500 Dye-Sub, Epson 1280 inkjet, Epson Worforce 610 MFC
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