Solved Changing Capacitors on a bad PSU, Will it make a difference?

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Hi guys I'm just curious if this would make a difference. I found a shop that repairs PC power supplies that is just a few blocks from our house. My PSU gives stable voltages(Haven't failed even the load is 240W) but I can't trust it's Caps no more. I'll be replacing the caps of a 250W power supply.
 

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Running a PSU near it's peak rated wattage/capacity is pretty much asking for a meltdown....; a few new capacitors would hardly seem the solution compared to the $40-$50 spent on, say, a new 430-450 watt PSU?
 

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The power supply doesn't do a meltdown at near or peak wattage and I just want my power supply to last longer
 

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Some PSUs will handle running at max-load spec better than others; all I am saying is that running a PSU rated at 250W (that rating would be when it is new, out of the box, by the way) at constant 240W load will likely shorten whatever service life is left in it. If you disagree, then, by all means, sir... add a few more USB drives to it, all defragging at once, to run it at 260-270 watts load....when it does 'let loose', let us hope there are no voltage spikes to damage anything else, and that only the PSU is lost.
 

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Why do you believe the capacitors should be replaced? Capacitors in a good quality PSU should last beyond the useful life of the computer. Replace them in a cheap PSU and you still have a cheap and unreliable PSU.

It may be different in the Philippines but where I live it makes no sense to do any kind of repairs on a 250 W PSU.
 

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Just buy a new PSU :)
 

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In my personal experience if you replace capacitors with same frequency and uF of higher grade/quality capacitors they'll work just fine as long as expert solder the capacitor back on the pcb.
 

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I wouldn't trust a PSU that has had components replaced by anyone except the manufacturer. If it's under warranty and it fails, or acts hinky in any way, send it back for repair.....if not, time for a new one. They have dropped in price so drastically, it makes no sense to try to get extra mileage out of a vital component like that when you can get a quality PSU for around $60.
 

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:ditto: I think a new PSU is the best choice.
 

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Definitely I'd go for a new PSU.

After a reread it seems you wouldn't be doing the replacement yourself - potentially very dangerous.
Still I'd dump the old one and buy a good new one.
 
Last edited:

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I definitely agree on buying a new supply.

Replacing the caps in a PSU with high quality grade caps could easily cost you half the cost of buying a new quality supply. It wouldn't be worth it, and there's always a fire risk when messing with the internals of a PSU. Better to leave it alone, and buy a new supply.
 

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I've replaced a few power supplies that had bulged and/or leaking capacitors, even one that had blown the 2 large capacitors in it, plus more than a dozen computers with the same problem on the motherboard. Best I could find out was a manufacturing plant in Asia had a mechanical issue with making them and the problem extended to most brand computers and some of the motherboard boards such as my Gigabyte and FIC, all were running WinXP. The symptom was sudden unexplained freezes or shutdowns. It's the first thing I look for on older computers when folks have problems.
 

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Quite a few years ago, the high-quality Japanese capacitors were being copied by a company in China. It was rumored that Japanese manufacturers knew about them trying to steal their technology and "leaked" bad designs of their capacitors and they produced billions of them which failed in a couple years of use.
 

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1. No one knows what capacitors are going to be used for the replacement.
2. No one know if they are soldered correctly.
3. No one know the quality or end of life of the rest of the components in the power supply.

Their are to many no one knows to be doing such a thing.

Just buy a quality, higher wattage and amp power supply and be done with all this.
 

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Never ever cheap out on your PSU. Repairing a marginal low cost PSU with anything is still a risk and for what they charge for labor you could buy so much more quality on sale somewhere and have a warranty. Even if you have to save up then get a new quality 80% PSU and look to 500w minimum and go semi modular to save cost and buy up the difference into a higher rating say gold. silver and or platinum ! Don't look back........
 

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I've used several of these PSU's in builds, and I use them at work.......you just can't hardly beat them. Normally, they are around $60-65.....worth every penny! SeaSonic M12II 520 Bronze . For what they normally go for, there's no reason to have to have a PSU rebuilt outside of it's warranty.
 

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Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
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A cheap PSU is a poor way to economize. A big problem is that cheap PSUs don't like to die alone but often take other major system components with them. A cheap PSU in the long term can be very expensive. But unfortunately many OEMs and system builders have found that using cheap PSUs is a cost effective way to build low cost (although unreliable) computers. But the computer usually lasts the warranty so it isn't their problem. It is the unfortunate buyers.

It is certainly possible for a skilled technician using quality components to make a reliable repair. But skilled technicians know their worth and usually don't work cheap. You are unlikely to save much on a repair over a new quality PSU. A reputable technician would so advise you. And this all assumes that the PSU doesn't have other problems. And in a cheap PSU that is far from certain.

Of course there are individuals that will do an inexpensive job. But you take a serious risk that they do not have the necessary skills and may do a rush job. And they will probably be using cheap capacitors of lower quality than the originals.

Of course you may get a reliable repair at a good price. But the odds are against you.

There is little to gain in having a PSU repaired and much to loose. Better to purchase a good quality PSU.
 

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Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP
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Windows 7 Pro 64 bit
CPU
Xeon W3520
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Nvidia Geforce 210
So okay everyone thanks for the advice! :) Just curious if this would help.
 

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Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
ASUS X550ZE
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-BIT
CPU
AMD A8 7200P
Motherboard
N/A
Memory
8GB 1600mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Radeon R5 (APU) + Radeon R5 M230 2GB Dual Graphics
Sound Card
Realtek ALC269 with SonicMaster
Monitor(s) Displays
Laptop Display
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 @60hz
Hard Drives
WDC WD50 00LPVX-80V0TT0 (500GB)
PSU
Laptop Charger
Mouse
ARMAGGEDON TEXTRON SCORPION 7
Internet Speed
100 mbps DOWN / 50 mbps UP
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
Mozzila FireFox, Valve Steam in-game internet browser
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