Computer is shutting down randomly

[amoretam]

Hi there how are you all doing..

136 days ago I had this issue
https://www.sevenforums.com/general-discussion/401571-computer-randomly-resetting-itself.html

and found out it was my SSD that was failing so I replaced it and everything was good.

About a month ago my computer started shutting itself down out of nowhere.
Sometimes it would loop, very strange behavior.
I have a dual boot system with 2 Sata Hdd's. I thought that the culprit was one of the Hdd's (the one I use for Internet connections) so removed it.
The issue solved like for 1 or 2 days and then it came back once again.

I remember doing things like, resetting the BIOS via removing the battery.
and testing with another Power supply.

I abandoned troubleshooting due to work, now I am willing to start again.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thanks

 

[Megahertz07]

It can be by CPU over temperature.
On BIOS, is the CPU temperature alarm enabled? Set it to 80ºC.
Is the CPU fan alarm enebled?
Do you have a hardware monitor? I use this Open Hardware Monitor - Core temp, fan speed and voltages in a free software gadget
Set to show one core at task bar.
Set it to start with windows.

 

[amoretam]

It can be by CPU over temperature.
On BIOS, is the CPU temperature alarm enabled? Set it to 80ºC.
Is the CPU fan alarm enebled?
Do you have a hardware monitor? I use this Open Hardware Monitor - Core temp, fan speed and voltages in a free software gadget
Set to show one core at task bar.
Set it to start with windows.

Hi, thanks for reply.
I always check cpu temperature with CPUID.
it is always good

thanks

 

[Mellon Head]

Hi, thanks for reply.
I always check cpu temperature with CPUID.
it is always good

thanks

What temperature does CPUID tell you? And is that temperature at idle? Or under load?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Just my two cents worth I am assuming it is a Sandy Bridge build?? I would like to see the voltage rails on the PSU now I use this to find those and I know it is not a perfect program as many tell me but I have yet to fault it, and when I have cause to doubt the findings I use a digital multimeter to find out for definite. That I have done anyway in the past when checking out the HW Info software.
Having said that to let you know where I am coming from
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Now at least this will eliminate any possible cause from a faulty PSU which is so often overlooked when finding computer faults as when it goes south so does everything.

 

[amoretam]

What temperature does CPUID tell you? And is that temperature at idle? Or under load?

hey thanks man.

Maximun temperature under load is like 75 celcius or something. It is very good. I have a very nice fan

 

[amoretam]

Just my two cents worth I am assuming it is a Sandy Bridge build?? I would like to see the voltage rails on the PSU now I use this to find those and I know it is not a perfect program as many tell me but I have yet to fault it, and when I have cause to doubt the findings I use a digital multimeter to find out for definite. That I have done anyway in the past when checking out the HW Info software.
Having said that to let you know where I am coming from
Using HW Info
PART A:
You can test the volts on the PSU with HW Info HWiNFO - Download < download the right bit version and close the right hand window select Sensors and scroll down to the power section where you will see what the volts are doing see my pic. In my pic the section (Nuvoton) with VBATT as a dead give away you are in the section for the rail voltages. There are other section titles and one that pops up often is ITE (sometimes the usual one for Gigabyte boards)
Now the voltage on the different rails have to be within 5% =+/- of what is required or the machine will not work properly if at all.
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s
See this for the rail voltage info
PSUs 101: A Detailed Look Into Power Supplies (Section 2.)
The original right hand window shows the machine running and is handy for that but for looking at the components in some detail close it and use the main left hand side panel
FOR OTHER COMPONENTS
PART B:
Open each small square with + in it on the section the components are in and then click on the individual component/s (it will highlight in blue) - in the right hand side will appear all sorts of details including brands speeds and other essential info that particular device. See pic for example.

Now at least this will eliminate any possible cause from a faulty PSU which is so often overlooked when finding computer faults as when it goes south so does everything.

hi there. I do not think there will be time for doing this.
Last time I checked, it will inmediately shut down, sometimes it will not even boot but instead goes into a loop.
But I will try this and come back.

Yes it is sandy bridge

 

[Megahertz07]

75ºC is high temperature, not critical. Did you check if the heat sink is dust free?
Did you overclock the CPU or memory? If you did, try to set to normal.

 

[amoretam]

75ºC is high temperature, not critical. Did you check if the heat sink is dust free?
Did you overclock the CPU or memory? If you did, try to set to normal.

it is dust free. No overclocking
I am pretty sure this is not CPU overheating issues.

Thanks

 

[Layback Bear]

it is dust free. No overclocking
I am pretty sure this is not CPU overheating issues.

Thanks

Well I'm sure 75C is to hot. Not to the toaster stage but still to hot for a custom build for sure.

Some info:

http://ark.intel.com/products/52210/Intel-Core-i5-2500K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz

TCASE 72.6°C

Jack

 

[Mellon Head]

Well I'm sure 75C is to hot. Not to the toaster stage but still to hot for a custom build for sure.

Some info:

http://ark.intel.com/products/52210/Intel-Core-i5-2500K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz





Jack

Yeah, with a TCase of only 72C and a CPU temperature of 75C, I would be checking that the CPU fan is turning properly and that the heatsink is securely attached to the CPU.

It looks like there is definitely a temperature problem to me.

 

[Layback Bear]

Their may be more than one problem. Temps is where I would start.
If the system gets cooked, the other problems won't matter.

Jack

 

[amoretam]

Well I'm sure 75C is to hot. Not to the toaster stage but still to hot for a custom build for sure.

Some info:

http://ark.intel.com/products/52210/Intel-Core-i5-2500K-Processor-6M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz





Jack

hi thanks. I've been hotter than that before. I had another fan which I ditched because I just felt things were getting hot. (just obsession)
Never had an issue with computer resseting itself by then.
Replaced fan about 1 year and a half ago and happy I am with temperature,
I swear my friend, this has nothing to do with temperature.


thanks a lot

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok well the PSU my friend you can still test with a digital multimeter they are very cheap and you only need to power the machine on and test the leads especially the 24 pin plug and I would be very interested in seeing what the voltage is if any is at pin 8 (grey cable) on that plug.
That is the POWER_GOOD signal pin and if that does not get a 5v signal from the PSU then nothing will start up as it is a safety measure built into the PSU to stop unsafe voltages (over or under) being supplied to the board. Now you can see from my little ditty that the tolerances for the voltage rails are very fine at 5% positive or negative of the required voltage.
I have attached a pic of the 24 pin plug colour coding and it applies to all the other power cables in your machine. The choice is yours to do this and for the sake of doing this (takes a few minutes if that) you could be taking a risk with unsafe voltages.

 

[johnhoh]

I swear my friend, this has nothing to do with temperature.

We have two conflicting points here - your assertion that temperature is fine and your report that you are hitting 75C, which is not fine. Here's a quick and easy way to put the issue to bed though, just run hwinfo64 and keep an eye on the "Distance to TjMAX" area, which I have outlined in a red box. Let us know what the smallest number you see in the minimum column after using the machine for a while.

HWiNFO - Download

If you never get closer than say 15C to TjMaxx, then yes your temps are not the issue. In that case I would swap out the power supply if you have not done so already. It was smart to remove that second drive. If your temps are fine after running hwinfo64 and you still shut down with a different power supply, and you've done a full virus scan, and you have no checkmarks in device manager, then my money is on the motherboard, which is impossible to diagnose other than to swap it out....

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Yes John but amoretam posted the HW Info could not be run when I asked for the PSU stuff a few posts back. I am really interested to see what those rail volts are because if the CPU is getting a tad over volts maybe it is heating it up unnecessarily:huh:

 

[amoretam]

thanks a lot people for the response.
I will follow all indications on wednesday, that is when I have time.
I will try to borrow a multimeter
Thanks again

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok will await that and I don't know where you are living but really those meters can be bought for very little and are also very handy around the home. You can get them for as little as $5 in some of the dollar type shops or one of the online sites like EBay or Wish.com.

 

[amoretam]

Ok well the PSU my friend you can still test with a digital multimeter they are very cheap and you only need to power the machine on and test the leads especially the 24 pin plug and I would be very interested in seeing what the voltage is if any is at pin 8 (grey cable) on that plug.
That is the POWER_GOOD signal pin and if that does not get a 5v signal from the PSU then nothing will start up as it is a safety measure built into the PSU to stop unsafe voltages (over or under) being supplied to the board. Now you can see from my little ditty that the tolerances for the voltage rails are very fine at 5% positive or negative of the required voltage.
I have attached a pic of the 24 pin plug colour coding and it applies to all the other power cables in your machine. The choice is yours to do this and for the sake of doing this (takes a few minutes if that) you could be taking a risk with unsafe voltages.

Hi there , How are you doing?
Here I am after a long time.
Now I have time to start troubleshotting.
I am ready to test the PSU.

I got the multimeter in the pic.

Would you please explain a little bit how to proceed with this one?

Hopefully we'll get this sorted out
Thanks a lot

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok mate have made up a pic for you and if you have nay doubts or queries please ask.

This is a good reference https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer) the 24 pin plug is copied from this and there is a pic of a dedicated tester at the bottom of it.

Just remember the voltages are not inherently dangerous themselves only that they are supplied a high current and if you have ever accidentally shorted a car battery then you will know what I mean