Computer is shutting down randomly

[amoretam]

Hi there,
I just tested the Grey wire and the result was: - 3.71.

I did it by placing the positive lead plug in the Grey pin and the Black lead plug to the Green pin (as seen on a video)

Edit: Ok here are the results for the others:

Yellow = 11.78
Red = 5.11
Blue = -11.35
Orange = 3.31
Grey = 5.11
This time I did it by placing the positive lead plug in the Grey pin and the Black lead plug to the a Black pin (accidentally)

What do you think?

Thanks

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Ok I don't know what video that was but the black is always to black as you found.

That green lead is a pic that can be sorted to a black pin because that is the power on switch connections?

Now wanting you to play around with any pSU's unless you are fairly savvy with them because there are parts - usually the large capacitors in them that hold a high voltage charge very similar to a heart defibrillator and yes it will have the same effect on you as one.

In nutshell defibs are used to actually stop all electrical activity in the heart in the hope that it will start beating in a normal rhythm because a lot of heart attacks are caused when the heart starts to beat in a rhythm that is not conducive to life. . I know this because I am an RN of 44+ years so please DO not mess with these devices unless you know what you are doing.

I do have an old PSU set up to test fans etc using a bridge connection between the black and green pins but again unless you research it really well DO NOT try to use one for anything without the knowledge needed.

NOw backing up - the blue lead is actually the -12v (negative) pin and it's importance is not really that relevant these days - I stand to be corrected of course.

The colours that are important are yellow +12v (positive) red +5v and orange +3.3v

Now those readings have to be with +/- 5% of the required voltage any more or less can cause damage to components though most modern PSU's have circuitry (POWER_GOOD +5v grey cable pin) that will not allow a machine to boot or even start for that matter if the +5 does not appear at the grey pin when powering up the machine.
See this table
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s

But well done for getting that done as it is in my mind better than getting reading from softwares that can be often off mark personally I don't really rely too much on the BIOS but others may disagree.

 

[amoretam]

Ok I don't know what video that was but the black is always to black as you found.

That green lead is a pic that can be sorted to a black pin because that is the power on switch connections?

Now wanting you to play around with any pSU's unless you are fairly savvy with them because there are parts - usually the large capacitors in them that hold a high voltage charge very similar to a heart defibrillator and yes it will have the same effect on you as one.

In nutshell defibs are used to actually stop all electrical activity in the heart in the hope that it will start beating in a normal rhythm because a lot of heart attacks are caused when the heart starts to beat in a rhythm that is not conducive to life. . I know this because I am an RN of 44+ years so please DO not mess with these devices unless you know what you are doing.

I do have an old PSU set up to test fans etc using a bridge connection between the black and green pins but again unless you research it really well DO NOT try to use one for anything without the knowledge needed.

NOw backing up - the blue lead is actually the -12v (negative) pin and it's importance is not really that relevant these days - I stand to be corrected of course.

The colours that are important are yellow +12v (positive) red +5v and orange +3.3v

Now those readings have to be with +/- 5% of the required voltage any more or less can cause damage to components though most modern PSU's have circuitry (POWER_GOOD +5v grey cable pin) that will not allow a machine to boot or even start for that matter if the +5 does not appear at the grey pin when powering up the machine.
See this table
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
The Power good signal voltage at pin 8 on the 24 pin plug (grey cable) should be the same as the 5v rail reading/s

But well done for getting that done as it is in my mind better than getting reading from softwares that can be often off mark personally I don't really rely too much on the BIOS but others may disagree.

Ok thanks a lot.
I did not understand very well.

Is my PSU good or damaged?
what should I do now?

 

[ICIT2LOL]

No mate the PSU looks ok the +12v is creeping down at 11.78v but nothing to be concerned about

This Posted are the volts you need to be aware of normal upper and lower limits
Limits +/- (minimum - correct - maximum)
12v1 = 11.4 - 12 - 12.6v
12v2 = 11.4 - 12- 12.6v
5v = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v
3.3v = 3.135 – 3 – 3.465v
-12v = -10.80 - -12 - -13.20v
+5VSB = 4.75 – 5 - 5.25v

I am only letting you know because as you know computer components ie the CPU these days are markedly affected by even the slightest/tiny difference in the operating voltage one way or the other for example in increasing their frequency and hence the heat produced by the extra load.

 

[hazel123]

Is it actually just shutting down randomly or actually crashing to black screen and shutting down? I ask because I had this recently and it was when the graphics was overloaded (rubbish graphics driver and too much stuff on my system). It's stopped doing it since I did a clean install. But had to install the graphics driver to do the clean install. Might be my graphics card as well. Just a thought, but I'm not one of the experts

 

[amoretam]

Is it actually just shutting down randomly or actually crashing to black screen and shutting down? I ask because I had this recently and it was when the graphics was overloaded (rubbish graphics driver and too much stuff on my system). It's stopped doing it since I did a clean install. But had to install the graphics driver to do the clean install. Might be my graphics card as well. Just a thought, but I'm not one of the experts

Computer is shuting down randomly, and then it reboots. Sometimes it will stay off, sometimes it will loop.
When it crashes and stays offf, when I go to turn it on, sometimes it will loop no even getting to the BIOS.
I do not have dedicated graphics card

I am ready to keep on troubleshooting peoeple, any help appreciated

Thanks a lot

 

[hazel123]

Only time I've had something like that, it was a virus but could but a lot of other things as well - and the more expert people will know. I don't quite understand your set up. This might be a silly question but have you run malwarebytes antimalware?

 

[johnhoh]

I am ready to keep on troubleshooting people, any help appreciated
Thanks a lot

Can you post a screenshot as discussed in post #15

 

[hazel123]

Just remembered - another time I had that was after upgrading bios on a machine.

 

[amoretam]

Can you post a screenshot as discussed in post #15

cannot boot computer to Windows,
and if I boot to windows, it will shutt off before I am done with that.

thanks

 

[johnhoh]

With the computer cold, i.e. has not been used in 30 minutes, I would remove the panel on the side of the case to maximize airflow, disconnect the hard drive, then boot straight into the bios health status page and watch the temperatures listed there as they heat up. I normally do not jump to any conclusions about temperature but your earlier report of 75C really stands out because not only is that very unusual, if your cpu is that hot then the rest of your system is also too hot, and motherboards are far less tolerant of high temps than a cpu. If a cpu gets too hot it is most likely going to enter a thermal throttling state, and next most likely is that it simply freezes. For a system that keeps rebooting I would suspect the motherboard or power supply. Also check to see if your chipset heatsink is firmly attached.

 

[amoretam]

ok people.
I am still troubleshooting this time following this document from Tom's hardware:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/302360-31-computer-turns-split-shuts#r5136625
I am following BEST ANSWER in green.
So I tried this:
Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.
When I turn the PC on I hear the beeps indicating there is no memory, (that is good I guess), but after about 25 seconds the computer will reboot itself on a loop.
Same problem.
This is the original reboot loop I had.
What does that mean??

I guess that means my HDD and Memory are not the problem, but what is the problem then?

Thanks a lot. I have like 3 more hours left for troubleshooting.

 

[johnhoh]

"I tried this:
Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.
When I turn the PC on I hear the beeps indicating there is no memory, (that is good I guess), but after about 25 seconds the computer will reboot itself on a loop."

If the system reboots when it has no memory, that's probably just what the system does when it has no memory, not indicative of anything imo. Those links you found are good, so you might as well continue down the thread. Be aware that the beep patterns in the thread may not match your board.

 

[amoretam]

"I tried this:
Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.
When I turn the PC on I hear the beeps indicating there is no memory, (that is good I guess), but after about 25 seconds the computer will reboot itself on a loop."

If the system reboots when it has no memory, that's probably just what the system does when it has no memory, not indicative of anything imo. Those links you found are good, so you might as well continue down the thread. Be aware that the beep patterns in the thread may not match your board.

Hi
Replaced memory and still boot loop. Sometimes faster, sometimes slower.
Sometimes it takes like 2 seconds to reboot.

Also I found this thread:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1736983/gigabyte-z77x-ud3h-boot-loop.html

I tried his solution but I see no recovery screen as he sees.

Actually I saw anything on my screen after that.

I am lost. I had enough for today.
I will continue tomorrow.

Thnks a lot

 

[johnhoh]

is the beep pattern the same both with and without memory installed? The fact that the system reboots is not important if there is no video card running yet.

 

[amoretam]

is the beep pattern the same both with and without memory installed? The fact that the system reboots is not important if there is no video card running yet.

hi
No, it is not the same pattern.

please check system specs.
I use no video card. This is a sandy bridge system



thanks

 

[ICIT2LOL]

Can you boot to safe mode yet?? and the driver for your graphics is an Intel one - GA-Z77X-UD3H (rev. 1.0) | Motherboard - GIGABYTE
under VGA I would also do the chipset.

To save me wading back through the thread have you checked out the PSU??

 

[amoretam]

Can you boot to safe mode yet?? and the driver for your graphics is an Intel one - GA-Z77X-UD3H (rev. 1.0) | Motherboard - GIGABYTE
under VGA I would also do the chipset.

To save me wading back through the thread have you checked out the PSU??

Hi.
Not able to boot to Windows.

My mobo is Rev 1.1. All drivers up to date.

PSU is fine. Tested with a Multimeter.

Thanks

 

[johnhoh]

hi
No, it is not the same pattern.

Well what is the beep pattern then?

 

[amoretam]

Well what is the beep pattern then?

no pattern actually, just a beep like it is going to boot normally. Of course, that is when when is does not restart inmediately