Computer not straing up

ICIT2LOL

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My Ivy Bridge crashed last week following what I am assuming was a software failure. It was followed in quick succession by the LC pump failing.

Have installed a new Coolermaster TX4 today but am not getting any RAM beep at start up and or screen. I have tried swapping the sticks to other slots with same issue no beep.

The RAM red light is on and I have tried resetting that to the default RAM speed still no start up or screen.

Am now feeling that perhaps the CPU has been cooked - any ideas please.:(

Specs are below.

PS may not answer back until a bit later as I have to work the graveyard shift.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Have you tried resetting/clearing the CMOS completely?

Paul.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
Hiyya Paul thanks for the reply no mate buy I will I am just about to leave for work so will leave the battery out. What is bothering me is I am not getting that RAM beep. I have tried some different RAM sticks in same result.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Good luck John, lets hope a simply cmos clear will cure it.

Let us know how you get on.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
Yes so do I mate I have removed the GPU too to see if the graphics work at all from the board.

The machine the last time I looked was running all fans GPU CPU fan at normal speed. The RAM light is on all the time despite resetting it and I have tried reseating the sticks and used the other slots. Like I said what is really worrying is the lack of the RAM beep on power up.

I am hoping that the Intel cooler I sent back on warranty will be replaced and if the CPU is cooked or the board torched then I can probably get those back on warranty because of the cooler problem??
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
It sounds like you may need to send the CPU and mobo in for testing. Do you think that heat raced away and maybe cooked the board or CPU as that's what my thoughts are leaning towards. I would have hoped that thermal protection in the mobo and chip would have shut this down in time. Have you looked at the front and back of the mobo looking for any discolorations from heat did you or can you smell any smokey electronic odors?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
A blend of brains, brawn and dumb luck.
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64
CPU
i7 3770k OC'd 4.6 @ 1.17v, also FX 8120 & i5 miniITX
Motherboard
MSI P67A-GD80 b3
Memory
32 gb G.Skill Sniper DDR3 10-12-12-31 @ 2133
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon 7870 2GB DDR5
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Z Series Card
Monitor(s) Displays
(2) LG LED 23" 1920 x 1080 2ms Monitors via mini d-port
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050 p
Hard Drives
Samsung 256 gb 830 SSD sata III
(1) 1 tb WD Black
(2) 1 tb Hitachi deskmates/sata II
(2) 1 tb WD green/sata II
(2) 3 tb Seagate Barracuda
(1) 120 gb OCZ Vertex SS
(1) Drobo 5N w/5 Seagate 3tb
PSU
EVGA modular 1000G2 80% gold rating & APC 1200 RS
Case
CoolerMaster Storm Styker
Cooling
7 case fans 140mm & 120mm, NZXT Kraken X60
Keyboard
(2) Logitech Illuminated Keyboards (1) usb (1) wireless
Mouse
Logitech G700 & T-BC21 - nano nx for the laptop
Internet Speed
Basic 120mbps down
Antivirus
Trend Micro Titanium Max Security & Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Chrome and IE 10
Other Info
5 Noctua case fans + 3 Noctua in p/p on NZXT cooler
Integrated hot swap drive bays for 2.5" Drives
(2) Lite-on dvd/cd/Blu Ray optical 22X
Integrated fan controller and led on/off
HP Officejet Pro 8630 all-n-one
Hot-swappable 3.5" hard drive bay
Netgear Nighthawk router
Asus USB 3 & sata 6 PCIe card
Vantec IDE to sata adptr./Ultra sata adptr
Lenovo L420 i5 lappy with m sata
Drobo 5N advanced NAS
Intel CPU's just don't cook themselves like you think. There are so many safeguards in place to make sure that doesn't happen if your cooling solution fails. I doubt you fried your CPU. Do what Paul said and reset your CMOS settings. Load factory defaults in your BIOS and see what's what. We'll go from there.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
Ok linne and Kelly I will see when I get up tomorrow as I have the battery out and hopefully it is just the CMOS.

As for the shut down / crash I think the first part was due to some software the second glitch which happened only an hour or so later was the pump on the Intel LC failing it did hit 101C at one stage which I shut down asap. The next power up it shut itself down almost as soon as it had begun so maybe it was a good sign in that respect.

One glimmer of light is that I do have the LEDs on the board still working though I suppose I could be reading something into that via wishful thinking.

But thanks to you all for the help I sincerely appreciate it fellas - will update when I get down to it again.:)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Just a quick note, you do know you only need to take the battery out for around 10 mins to clear the cmos?

Paul
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
Many mobo's have a clear cmos button on the IO or board otherwise the battery can come out for just 15-30 seconds to clear it back to defaults !
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
A blend of brains, brawn and dumb luck.
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64
CPU
i7 3770k OC'd 4.6 @ 1.17v, also FX 8120 & i5 miniITX
Motherboard
MSI P67A-GD80 b3
Memory
32 gb G.Skill Sniper DDR3 10-12-12-31 @ 2133
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon 7870 2GB DDR5
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Z Series Card
Monitor(s) Displays
(2) LG LED 23" 1920 x 1080 2ms Monitors via mini d-port
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050 p
Hard Drives
Samsung 256 gb 830 SSD sata III
(1) 1 tb WD Black
(2) 1 tb Hitachi deskmates/sata II
(2) 1 tb WD green/sata II
(2) 3 tb Seagate Barracuda
(1) 120 gb OCZ Vertex SS
(1) Drobo 5N w/5 Seagate 3tb
PSU
EVGA modular 1000G2 80% gold rating & APC 1200 RS
Case
CoolerMaster Storm Styker
Cooling
7 case fans 140mm & 120mm, NZXT Kraken X60
Keyboard
(2) Logitech Illuminated Keyboards (1) usb (1) wireless
Mouse
Logitech G700 & T-BC21 - nano nx for the laptop
Internet Speed
Basic 120mbps down
Antivirus
Trend Micro Titanium Max Security & Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Chrome and IE 10
Other Info
5 Noctua case fans + 3 Noctua in p/p on NZXT cooler
Integrated hot swap drive bays for 2.5" Drives
(2) Lite-on dvd/cd/Blu Ray optical 22X
Integrated fan controller and led on/off
HP Officejet Pro 8630 all-n-one
Hot-swappable 3.5" hard drive bay
Netgear Nighthawk router
Asus USB 3 & sata 6 PCIe card
Vantec IDE to sata adptr./Ultra sata adptr
Lenovo L420 i5 lappy with m sata
Drobo 5N advanced NAS
Many mobo's have a clear cmos button on the IO or board otherwise the battery can come out for just 15-30 seconds to clear it back to defaults !

And the Z77 Sabertooth has a clear CMOS jumper lol....still don't understand that one
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
Yes Paul and linne I was on my way out mates and didn't have the time and yep it has some sort of clear button I think somewhere.

Being on graveyard shift isn't helpful:(
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Yep looking at it now and it's on the IO panel next to the esata ports if those are the red ones ! Small button with a couple of arrows and BIOS on it !
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
A blend of brains, brawn and dumb luck.
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 64
CPU
i7 3770k OC'd 4.6 @ 1.17v, also FX 8120 & i5 miniITX
Motherboard
MSI P67A-GD80 b3
Memory
32 gb G.Skill Sniper DDR3 10-12-12-31 @ 2133
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon 7870 2GB DDR5
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Z Series Card
Monitor(s) Displays
(2) LG LED 23" 1920 x 1080 2ms Monitors via mini d-port
Screen Resolution
1680 X 1050 p
Hard Drives
Samsung 256 gb 830 SSD sata III
(1) 1 tb WD Black
(2) 1 tb Hitachi deskmates/sata II
(2) 1 tb WD green/sata II
(2) 3 tb Seagate Barracuda
(1) 120 gb OCZ Vertex SS
(1) Drobo 5N w/5 Seagate 3tb
PSU
EVGA modular 1000G2 80% gold rating & APC 1200 RS
Case
CoolerMaster Storm Styker
Cooling
7 case fans 140mm & 120mm, NZXT Kraken X60
Keyboard
(2) Logitech Illuminated Keyboards (1) usb (1) wireless
Mouse
Logitech G700 & T-BC21 - nano nx for the laptop
Internet Speed
Basic 120mbps down
Antivirus
Trend Micro Titanium Max Security & Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Chrome and IE 10
Other Info
5 Noctua case fans + 3 Noctua in p/p on NZXT cooler
Integrated hot swap drive bays for 2.5" Drives
(2) Lite-on dvd/cd/Blu Ray optical 22X
Integrated fan controller and led on/off
HP Officejet Pro 8630 all-n-one
Hot-swappable 3.5" hard drive bay
Netgear Nighthawk router
Asus USB 3 & sata 6 PCIe card
Vantec IDE to sata adptr./Ultra sata adptr
Lenovo L420 i5 lappy with m sata
Drobo 5N advanced NAS
You could always do something risky. Like reading the owners manual for the motherboard.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
lol, CMOS can usually be cleared by a jumper (when OC testing I usually have a reset switch from an old case connected to it). Modern and high end boards often feature a switch and in the absence of these; battery removal for around 20mins is recommended.

The beep given off at power up does not just indicate the RAM being good, but that the system has completed the POST (power on self test), which includes the RAM, CPU, BIOS, DMA, and BUS(s).

No Single Beep (pass) and no resultant beep code (fail) means the test is not completing.

Agree with previous posts indicating clear CMOS per your manual.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core2 Quad Q8300 2.5Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P5QD Turbo
Memory
Kingston HyperX 4x1GB DDR2 1066Mhz
Graphics Card(s)
Asus/Nvidia 9500GT 1GB
Sound Card
On-Board HD
Monitor(s) Displays
22" Widescreen TFT
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
2x 320Gb Seagate SATAII RAID 0
2x 80Gb Seagate SATAII RAID 0
1x 1tb hybrid (8gb ssd)
PSU
650w
Case
ATX
Cooling
140mm front, 120mm Rear, 80mm Chipset + stock CPU and GPU
Keyboard
Plastic one
Mouse
Plastic one
Internet Speed
4Mbps
Other Info
Laptop: HP Elitebook 2560p
i5 @2.7Ghz 4GB DDR3
Ah well have read the manual for what it is worth reset the CMOS by the battery "method" and RTM jumper and tried three different brands of RAM sticks, and in different slots .
The machine is starting up and I can hear the optical click and spin and the HDD light flicks on and off all fans are running.
The CPU light blinks a few times then stops the RAM light stays on until I reset it that stops the machine and starts it up again but again the RAM stays on.
I can feel the top of the cooler plate but the CPU does not feel even warm and I am guessing it is only the heat from my finger at that.
I still get no output even from the board graphics (there is no graphics error LED on) so I would not know what is going on via error messages - it will not go into BIOS that I know. But the most concerning thing to me is there is no POST beep.
I have followed everyone's advice and followed the manual which really is very basic and has no troubleshooting section and I am now left wondering if the mobo is dead in the water.
So am at a loss as what to try next.

PS I have just heard back from the supplier - they are waiting on a replacement Intel LC unit the other one was in fact not functioning.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Just had a thought.
It could be the defective cooler hooked to the motherboard sending a signal to the system letting it know their is no cooling and it just shuts down.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Just had a thought.
It could be the defective cooler hooked to the motherboard sending a signal to the system letting it know their is no cooling and it just shuts down.
Sorry Jack I thought I had posted it but didn't I have a Coolermaster TX4 installed right now and the problem persists. I should have thought about that when I posted about suppler messaging me about awaiting the replacement.:o (Night duty does strange things to ones metabolism)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Ah well have read the manual for what it is worth reset the CMOS by the battery "method" and RTM jumper and tried three different brands of RAM sticks, and in different slots .
The machine is starting up and I can hear the optical click and spin and the HDD light flicks on and off all fans are running.
The CPU light blinks a few times then stops the RAM light stays on until I reset it that stops the machine and starts it up again but again the RAM stays on.
I can feel the top of the cooler plate but the CPU does not feel even warm and I am guessing it is only the heat from my finger at that.
I still get no output even from the board graphics (there is no graphics error LED on) so I would not know what is going on via error messages - it will not go into BIOS that I know. But the most concerning thing to me is there is no POST beep.
I have followed everyone's advice and followed the manual which really is very basic and has no troubleshooting section and I am now left wondering if the mobo is dead in the water.
So am at a loss as what to try next.

PS I have just heard back from the supplier - they are waiting on a replacement Intel LC unit the other one was in fact not functioning.

I really wish I could help you, I had the Ram light staying on, but that was due to 1 stick of my ram going bad and you have already tried different ram and different combinations.
I fear it might be a lot worse, but I am surprised if the motherboard or cpu got fried as of the safeguards like Kelly mentioned.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Professional 64 bit
Thanks Paul that is reassuring. I have messaged the supplier with the problem too in case the failure of the cooler they are replacing has damaged the board or CPU and I will hear back when I get up today I guess as it is now 4am.

Am not real sure what to do next as like you say I have tried the RAM out in different configs, reset the CMOS and without some specialized equipment I don't know what to test out.
It is bugging me about the lack of that loud beep I used to get and no graphics as I did think I would have something flash up if only for a moment or two.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
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