Solved CPU Speed, BCLK and Memory Speed: Boot failure.

[Arc]

Probably I am in the right section for this issue. If not, please move it.

A couple of days ago I changed the motherboard and processor, but not the RAM as the RAM is apparently compatible with that board as stated in GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket 1150 - GA-B85M-D3H (rev. 1.0/1.1) ...

​

Now, I cannot remember from exactly what time, but most probably it started to happen after I applied the display cable to the iGPU's HDMI port but them went back to nvidia display.

Now, whenever I try to power up the computer after it is turned off for some time being, it refuses to boot, even to the BIOS. I do some hocky pocky with the RAM sticks, then I get this message ....

​

If i opt for either of the first two, it boots up normally.

The computer restarts normally during use.

But if it is off for some hours, then it goes to the same place after I power it up. Some hocky pocky with the memory sticks, this screen, and normal boot.

Same with the integrated GPU and the graphics card.

What I need to do to have a permanent solution? Please guide me, and consider that I am novice about those staff.

Thanks a great lot in advance.

I am providing as much info as I can.

• Speccy Screenshot: http://speccy.piriform.com/results/KtQO0ncvmU8HT5OFYVPwjJU
• CPUz ...
  
• System Specs is updated with the hardware component changes.

If any more info is needed, let me know, I will supply it.

Thanks again.

I have disabled the iGPU in device manager .... but is there any chance that it is kicking in? Or is teh RAM not compatible? Or anything else I need to do in the BIOS setup?

 

[essenbe]

According to the CPUz shots you provided, your ram is running right. I would go into bios and change the Command Rate (CR) from 1T to 2T. 2T is more stable than 1T. I would also manually set the Dram Voltage to 1.5V. Could you please explain what doing some "hocky pocky" with the ram sticks means. If it means that you have to reseat them or something similar, you have problems with the ram or the Dimm Slots on your Motherboard. Also, please go into Bios and give me the values of the +12V, +5V and +3.3V as well as the Vbatt voltage.

 

[essenbe]

I may also add the because it says the board has support for 1333/1600 ram, it does not mean any ram. That ram should be fine, but you need to look at the memory QVL list and see if your ram is listed by model number. The QVL list is just the ram that they have tested. It does not mean that if your ram is not on the list it isn't compatible. Your ram should work on any board.

 

[Arc]

Sorry for not being precise, Steve. it faced the issue. I remove the RAM sticks from the black to the gray slots ... it worked. Then in the morning the issue is there again. I moved the RAM sticks from gray to black slots; it worked again.

Trying to change the CR now.

 

[essenbe]

Arc, is it recognizing the ram? If not and the sticks are properly seated, it sounds like a problem with the Motherboard. Even if the timings are wrong, it should recognize the ram is there. Sorry, I didn't realize it was you having the problem. If the ram is seated properly, the description sounds like bad dimm slots. Can you try the sticks in another machine? If they work right in another machine, I would say it is definitely the dimm slots. The ram is 1333 @ 9-9-9-24 which is basic ram that should run in any machine. The Vbat value I asked for is the battery in the machine which makes bios remember the settings. I believe it should be 3.3V.

 

[Arc]

Steve, I cannot change the Command Rate .... it is set to auto even though I have tried advanced manual.

Is it possible that all the DIMM slots are bad? When it is up and running, it does not give even a hiccup, but all the time the computer fails to boot when it is powered up after some hours till the RAMs are removed and re-seated.

The computer detects the RAM, as I am seeing.

ATM I am extremely busy in a marriage ceremony. Both the bride and the groom are the two dearest and nearest persons to me. So I am not being able to do all the test, but I will try to apply another 1600 MHz RAM kit there to see how it goes, at my first chance.

It seems to me that it is a cold boot issue, but I am not very sure. As you are saying that it may be a bad motherboard, I will take the necessary actions to determine it as you guide me.

 

[essenbe]

Arc, according to your CPUz screenshots and your BIOS, you have a 1333 ram kit, not a 1600. But, it seems to be set right. Try using a can of compressed air and cleaning out the Dimm Slots. They should not need to be reseated every time. If they are seated correctly, the locking tab on the end is what keeps them in place and they can't move. If you can, take them back and exchange them for another set of the same thing and see if you have the same problem. That should eliminate the ram as the problem if it does the same thing. Also, are you sure when you installed the board that there was a standoff for each hole in the board, but no extra ones? If you have an extra standoff, it can short it out.

Also, just so you know. If you put a USB flash drive in, on any page you are on, press F12 and it will put a picture of that page on the flash drive.

But, something is not right. Either there is a short there, the ram is bad or the board is bad. I have never seen one do that before. When you seat the ram and lock the tab on the end, it can't move. When you start the computer and it won't boot, do you get a long series of beeps? Don't worry about the time. Take care of the wedding first. I'll always be around. I hope!

 

[Arc]

I just want to use another RAM kit, I told about the 1600 because It is also supported, and the boot failure message tells about an incompatibility only, nothing else.

I checked the DIMM slots. They are already cleaned, but I still cleaned those using an air blower. RAM sticks are always properly seated, I here the click sound of the lock clips every time I do it. It runs until it is powered off for hours. Restart or power off for a small time does not cause any problem.

As far as I can remember, I applied 4 standoffs, but I will take a further check.

When the computer does not boot, it does not beep. Either it yields a solid black screen or it shows the message that I posted in my original post.

So there is nothing to do in the BIOS settings?

Should I try a full dismantle and reseat from the scratch?

 

[essenbe]

Arc, if it were me, I would put it on a bench and try it. It's easier to get to and you can see everything going on. I just set it on a cardboard box, usually the box it came in. It makes working on it a lot easier. Are you using the latest BIOS?

 

[essenbe]

Arc, try setting Optimized defaults in BIOS. I believe it is F7 on your board. Then set the sata controller to what it is now and set the boot order and save and exit.

 

[Layback Bear]

From Arc post #8

As far as I can remember, I applied 4 standoffs, but I will take a further check.

I know of no motherboard with just 4 standoffs.

Count all the mounting holes on the motherboard and make sure they match in numbers to the standoffs and verify the position of the standoffs to match the mounting holes in the motherboard. All of the standoffs must be their without any extras under the motherboard. If you don't have all the necessary standoffs the motherboard might get warped when installed in the case.

I know that Steve has mentioned this before but it cost nothing to check again.

If it matters I do agree that building the basic system outside the case can be very helpful.

It would also be a good time to remove the cpu and verify that their are no bent pins. It will probable take a magnifying glass to do so.

Arc do you use the cpu cooler that came with the cpu? If not what cpu cooler do you use?

***Always use your motherboard manual to verify ram and other things are installed properly.

 

[essenbe]

Jack, I think an MITX board has 4 standoffs.

 

[essenbe]

I always build mine on a bench before I put it in a case. It sure makes things easier and lets you know if you have problems before you go to all that trouble. It's much easier to work on too.

 

[Layback Bear]

I have never used a MITX motherboard so I assuming that is the reason I have never seen a 4 standoff mount. It's not a great picture but I think I count 7. According to Post #1 and Arc's specs this is the motherboard.
I'm I looking at the wrong motherboard.

GIGABYTE - Motherboard - Socket 1150 - GA-B85M-D3H (rev. 1.0/1.1)

 

[essenbe]

Here's another one. The back side shows it better. The 4 holes in the middle are CPU cooler holes, but his may be different.

 

[Layback Bear]

Very confusing.
I guess we will just have to depend on Arc's eyes.

I found no help looking through the motherboard manual. I will do some more looking.

 

[Arc]

Tomorrow I will do a complete dismantle and re-seat it again. I will make it sure that I have applied all the standoffs and screws in all the pin-holes. I will try to get similar hardware parts to swap with the existing, one by one. But as the issue is not there when the hardware is hot, it may take a time to reach at the conclusion.

Jack, I am using the stock CPU cooler right now, as the system heat is not very high. I dont game so it does not g beyond control usually.

One more thing I have noticed which may add a little .... a few power on-off process also makes the system bootable without re-seating the RAM. But when the machine starts up, when it is cold, it does not boot at all.

 

[Layback Bear]

My concern with what cpu cooler was not because of a temp problem but rather a mounting problem.
Some motherboard will flex when a cpu cooler is tighten to much and cause all kinds of problems.

Could you let us know exactly how many mounting holes your motherboard has.
As you can see the pictures that Steve and I have post does cause some confusion.

I must say that the Gigabyte motherboard manual leaves a lot to be desired.

 

[essenbe]

Arc, I would consider bench testing it. It's much easier to see and much easier to get to if you need to work on it. I always bench test a new build before I put it into the case. I'm pretty sure Jack does too. It doesn't have to be pretty, just work. Put the board on a cardboard box (non conductive) and just plug in what you need.

Go through it very carefully and make sure all the wiring is right and completely seated. Make sure there are no frayed wires or bare wires that could be causing a short. If you have to swap out a part, it's very easy to get to. If you have an obvious problem, it's much easier to see. Do you have a case speaker wire connected internally? If not try to get one. Sometimes if something is wrong the board will have beep codes that can give you a hint of what it is. They are very cheap. In the US they are $5 or less. This is what they will look like


If you think it is ram, run memtest86+ on it and see if you get any errors.

 

[Layback Bear]

Please don't misunderstand me.
I totally agree with bench testing.
If everything works properly on the bench it isolates problems if their are any to the installation into the case and the case hardware (switches, harnesses, ect.)