Solved d3 restarting computer at login

[feelingsad]

so it seems like everytime i try to start up d3, my whole computer restarts itself even when i have auto restart turned off. i've been browsing the whole day and couldn't find any solutions. i also couldn't find blizzard speaking up about this either and so i turn to win7forums. i followed the instructions to posting a bsod and if there's anything else i should provide please do tell.


win7 x64
computer is ~2years old. os came with it, never reinstalled.

only newly added a radeon hd 5570 and changed to a certified psu for it
cpu - Intel Pentium E5500
MotherBoard - Foxconn 2A8C
System Manufacture - hp
model # - p6506f

 

[writhziden]

Security Software: ??? Make sure to install security software. I recommend either of these:

• Microsoft Security Essentials - Free Antivirus for Windows coupled with Malwarebytes. Do not start the free trial of Malwarebytes. Just use the standalone version, update it, and scan your computer once a week with Malwarebytes and with Microsoft Security Essentials.
  
  
• http://www.sevenforums.com/system-s...-system-security-combination.html#post1732627

After installing your security software, update it, and then run full scans today with each program. Report back the results of the scans.


Random restarts can be virus/malware related. so doing the above is very important. Report back after you have scanned the full system with security tools and let us know the results.


Random restarts can also be hardware related. Run some hardware checks.

• If you are overclocking any hardware, please stop.
  
  
• Monitor temperatures during the following tests.
  
  Use the following programs to monitor the temperatures.​
  • Real Temp is a good CPU temperature monitor.
  • Speccy - System Information - Free Download will monitor all hardware temperatures.
  • HWiNFO, HWiNFO32 & HWiNFO64 - Hardware Information and Analysis Tools can be inaccurate for CPU temperatures, but is a good program for GPU temperature monitoring.
  • Use FurMark: VGA Stress Test, Graphics Card and GPU Stability Test, Burn-in Test, OpenGL Benchmark and GPU Temperature | oZone3D.Net to test the graphics card GPU. Let it run until the GPU temperatures even out or until the GPU temperatures reach a dangerous level (you can find the max temperature for your card on either the nVidia or AMD sites; if you are not sure, ask us). The goal is to get a steady temperature, find out if the GPU is overheating, or to see if there are any artifacts present in the test itself: look for strange pixelated patterns on the screen or colors that do not look like they belong. Then use the |MG| Video Memory Stress Test 1.7.116 Download to test your graphics card memory. Let the memory test run for at least seven passes; the more the better.
    
    
  • Run http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/100352-hardware-stress-test-prime95.html to determine any hardware problems. Run all three tests for a few hours each. If you get errors, stop the test and post back here.
    
    
  • Follow the steps for doing CPU stress test using IntelBurnTest
  
  
• Run the boot version of Memtest86+ paying close attention to Parts 2 and 3 of the tutorial. Also, in case Memtest86+ misses anything and comes up with no errors, run the extended version of the Windows Memory Diagnostics Tool for at least five passes. These you may want to run overnight since they take a long time to complete (run them an hour before bed each of the next two nights and check before going to sleep that they are still running).
  
  
     Warning

  Before you proceed with the following, answer these two questions: Are you still under warranty? Does your warranty allow you to open up the machine to check hardware? If you are unsure of the answers to these questions, contact your system manufacturer. :warn:WARNING: The steps that follow can void your warranty!!!
  
  
  For Part 3: If You Have Errors: If you swap any memory components, follow these steps for ESD safety:
  1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
  2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
  3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
  4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.
  Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

 

[feelingsad]

Hi writhziden, thank-you for responding.

this is quite a huge list for me to do but i'll slowly try to tackle them down.
but you hit the mark about a virus

i usually just use spy-bot +malware
i have installed ms security essentials, updated and ran a full scan. took ~3hrs and found nothing

malwarebytes
- scanned for ~2hrs
Registry Keys Detected: 1
HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run (Trojan.Agent) -> Quarantined and deleted successfully.

-rescan c: after restart
scanned for ~2hrs
Registry Keys Detected: 1
HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run (Trojan.Agent) -> Quarantined and deleted successfully.

can't seem to delete this. =(
any ideas?

 

[writhziden]

Unfortunately, I am not a security expert. I would suggest that you start a new thread in System Security - Windows 7 Forums and let the security experts there guide you in removing the Trojan.

 

[feelingsad]

Np, I posted a new thread in system security as you suggested.

I forgot to mention I have never overclocked

Ran Memtest86+ overnight.
10 pass. 0 errors. Will upload some pictures I took of it when I get back to my computer.

Ran Furmark
-benchmark user settings
reached 65.5 gpu temp monitored by HWinfo64 and furmark itself. then computer restarted by itself (auto restart when system error is turned off already)

no artifacts during test. and test lasted around only 2mins. can upload the log from HWinfo64 when I get back to my computer.

I do remember reading somewhere for ati/amd card can reach up to 80 degrees before shutting itself down? correct me if I'm wrong. so 65.5 degrees seems a bit low..

Currently running VMT and will get back when it's done 7+ passes

edit: i was wondering when i run memtest86+, i can have both sticks in my computer at once for first test right? just wanted to clarify that.

edit2: finished vmt no errors it seems. also attached some proofs of tests if interested. (couldn't upload hwinfo64 log.CSV though)

edit3: the threat found by malwarebytes seems to be a false alarm. as mentioned by Phone Man, http://www.sevenforums.com/system-security/235011-cant-delete-reg-trojan-agent-malwarebytes.html. I did a new scan and found no threats. =)

edit4: i'm looking at the cpu stress test and was wondering where to find my cpu processor? from cpu-z i see that it's intel pentium dual core e5500?

 

[writhziden]

The ATI card can actually reach up to 95 C safely. Tests all look good. Good news about the "Trojan"; false positives do happen from time to time, but I'd rather that than have the software miss something truly malicious.

For your CPU and its temperatures: Intel® Pentium® Processor E5500 (2M Cache, 2.80 GHz, 800 MHz FSB)) and the max temperature is T_Case + 5 C = 79 C.

 

[feelingsad]

Ok, so I ran the tests for intelburn today and here are the results:

standard
time taken to complete: ~5mins
max temp: 52

high
time taken to complete: ~14mins
max temp: 54

max(3004mb)
time taken to complete: ~32mins
max temp: 53

couldn't set to very high because I don't have enough ram for it.

Isn't it a problem when furmark made my computer restart like how d3 does? I ran furmark again and this time I reached 99% of the bar on top before it restarted my computer. 61 degrees was last post from HWinfo64.

will run Prime95 tomorrow.

 

[writhziden]

Yes, it definitely indicates there is an issue of FurMark is causing it to restart like that. My best guesses are your graphics card, motherboard, PSU, or memory are faulting (in that order of likelihood).

What PSU do you have installed in your system?

 

[feelingsad]

I used to have a 400w enermax liberty but now I have a 650w psu. not sure which brand but i'm almost 100% sure its certified.

but didn't I test my memory with memtest86+?

 

[writhziden]

Memtest86+ is not foolproof. It is only reliable when it actually finds a problem. I never trust it completely when it does not find errors; that just means it is highly likely the RAM is fine. Further reading: Finicky RAM.

 

[feelingsad]

hmm I see... so what steps should I take? I would run Prime95 now, but I won't be up for 6hrs to monitor it.

Do you suggest finding a gpu driver? (though I think I have the latest one)
finding a bios update? I've tried contacting American Megatrends Inc and they said to contact my motherboard maker (foxconn) and foxconn told me to contact hp because they put my computer together. Then HP told me if there's no bios update on their website, then there is none... my computer is 2 years old...

Or should I try to find a replacement gpu?

On another note, when I play another game called Atlantica Online and enter this mode of 3D chess-ish mode. I usually end up with a completely white or completely black screen or vertical stripes. Are these two separate issues?

 

[writhziden]

I would suggest finding a GPU that is as old as the system and seeing if you have better luck there. You could also try RMAing the current GPU and seeing if you just got a dud. From the sounds of the weird graphics glitches, that sounds possible.

My first instinct, though, is that your motherboard/BIOS does not support the GPU you bought. HP is horrible about providing BIOS updates; I have that gripe with my own desktop system.

 

[feelingsad]

hmmm a gpu that's as old as my system won't be able to support d3 would it?

rma would probably be out of the question considering it was a gift from a friend.

ah... that would probably mean any newer gpu wouldn't be supported by my motherboard/bios as well right? If no bios update = new computer? ><''

 

[writhziden]

You may have to go through the D3 requirements and see if you can find an older card that meets those. Could take some creative hunting.

For the RMA, I believe they just check the serial number and they can determine the age of the card that way. You'd have to call to see.

 

[feelingsad]

well I guess I won't have to think about running Prime95 now.. but instead start thinking of a new comp ><

 

[writhziden]

Have you tried re-seating the graphics card to see if maybe it is not in the slot properly or the contacts are being interfered with by dust? Remove the card completely from the system, blow any dust out of the PCI card slot, and then place the card back in the system.

Also, since your system is older, when is the last time you blew out the dust with a can of compressed air?

To remove dust, follow the subsequent general procedure. If you have a desktop bought from Dell, HP, Sony, Lenovo, etc. make sure removing the desktop casing will not void your warranty first. Call the company if you are still under warranty and ask if it is okay to remove the casing and blow dust out. The procedure described is fine for laptops; just make sure no stickers are on panels saying if you remove the panel it will void the warranty.

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Remove the casing for a desktop, or remove any screwed on panels and disc drives for laptops.
5. Blow out the dust inside by using a can of compressed air or a low pressure compressor. You will want to put the computer on a desk or table so you can maintain the can in an upright position if using a can of air. Blow into all crevices on the motherboard, heat sinks, cards, modules, etc. for a desktop. Blow into vents, opened panels, disc drive areas, USB ports, and the keyboard if it is a laptop. You may also want to blow inside the disc drive by replacing the drive to the laptop, starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step. For a desktop, you may also want to blow inside the disc drive by starting the computer, opening the drive, and then turning off the computer and removing all power as described above including the 30 second power button step.
6. Replace casing for the desktop. Replace panels and disc drive (if you have not already done so) for the laptop.
7. Plug power supplies in. AC adapter for the desktop. Battery and then AC Adapter for the laptop.
8. Start the computer and see if performance is better.

Never use a vacuum to remove dust; it can result in static damage to your PC.


As you add and remove hardware, follow these steps for ESD safety:

1. Shut down and turn off your computer.
2. Unplug all power supplies to the computer (AC Power then battery for laptops, AC power for desktops)
3. Hold down the power button for 30 seconds to close the circuit and ensure all power drains from components.
4. Make sure you are grounded by using proper grounding techniques, i.e. work on an anti-static workbench, anti-static desk, or an anti-static pad. Hold something metallic while touching it to the anti-static surface, or use an anti-static wristband to attach to the anti-static material while working. If you do not have an anti-static workbench, desk, or pad, you can use your computer tower/case by finding a metal hold in it, such as a drive bay.

Once these steps have been followed, it is safe to remove and replace components within your computer.

 

[feelingsad]

i'll try that out when i can hook up an air compressor gun. >< sadly it's too late for my cpu. i'm embarrassed to say that I've already vacuumed the cpu heatsink/fan =( i guess it's a lesson for the future.

edit: actually i forgot to mention that i actually just had this graphics card set in with my normal 250w and was of course having problems. So then i burrowed a 400w but was still having problems from time to time. I could use the computer fine, but was unable to game for long. Now I burrowed another 650w psu and it works fine for the most part. The only times I would have problems is during the 3d chess mode in Altantica as mentioned before and D3. It is an improvement from the 400w->650w as when i had the 400w, I couldn't play any games. So for some reason.. after switching to a higher psu I didn't freeze as much.

 

[feelingsad]

umm ok.. so i bought a new computer. and here are the specs. same symptoms happening on d3

asus p8z77-v lk
intel i5-2550k
win 7 x64
still using radeon hd 5570 and enermax 400w

sigh =s

uploaded some pics of what kind of screens i usually get. it's those stripes or a completely black screen..

 

[writhziden]

RMA your graphics card. You probably should have done so prior to building a new system to see if that worked first. I did mention a bad graphics card seemed possible based on the problems you were having.

 

[feelingsad]

well i guess i could think of getting a new card =s... i think i saw a message last night on the bottom right of my screen, something about ( didn't quite catch ) v5.5 warning? (something about the voltage? not too sure.)