Fried battery

yomama365

New member
Local time
2:47 PM
Messages
99
Hi everyone, i was pushing a bare ground wire from a usb into the ground port on a pc fan, it was still plugged into the pc. This caused an electric arc, causing a glowing flame effect, not a real flame though, similar to when you plug something into a cheap travel adapter. All my usb ports work fine still. Laptop works ok. My only concern is will the battery be damaged by this? So far the battery is discharging at the normal rate
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
There are battery charge/discharge circuits that limit the current that can flow each way. Every reputable battery manufacturer uses a charge/discharge chip set that protects against short circuits. Your battery is fine.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Employer provided Dell Latitude
OS
W7 Pro SP1 64bit
CPU
i7
Memory
8GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD Graphics
Hard Drives
crappy SSD
Antivirus
Employer mandated Symantec Endpoint Protection
Browser
Pale Moon 64bit, IE11 64bit & Chrome 64bit
Hi,
Yep not a good idea to work with wires while the system is hot :(
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom assembled by me :}
OS
Win-7-Pro64bit 7-H-Prem-64bit
CPU
i7-5930K 2nd i9-9940x both water blocked VRM's too
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH X99 2nd ASUS x299 Apex
Memory
Trident-z 3200C14 2nd Trident-z 3600C16
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1080ti ftw3 2nd Titan Xp both water blocked
Sound Card
Built-in Realtek
Monitor(s) Displays
1-AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz/ 2nd 1-ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
2-Samsung M.2 Evo & Evo Plus
2-Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD's/ 3-2.5 W.D. Black 1tb-&3-1tb/3-3.5 WD Black 1tb hdd's
PSU
EVGA SuperNOVA 1000-P2 2nd 1200-P2
Case
2-Corsair Obsidian Series 450D Black ATX Mid Tower
Cooling
Custom water loops
Keyboard
Logitech G710+/ 2nd Logitech G910
Mouse
2-RedDragon M901 Perdition 16400 dpi Gaming mouse = wired
Internet Speed
Comcast Ping 19ms 89.31mbps download speed 6.12mbps upload
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Pro/ Superantispyware Pro
Browser
FireFox & Pale moon
Other Info
2nd ASUS X299 Apex/Intel i9-9940x with Custom water loop/7H-Prem-x64/Corsair 450D case/Ram Trident-z 3600C16 4x8gb / Samsung970Evo plus 500gb SSD/Dual ssd EZ swap evo/PSU EVGA SuperNova 1200w-P2 80+Platinum/GPU Titan Xp /8-ML-140 on push-pull on 2-280GTX rads
Okay, make my day and explain why one would do such a thing.

From post #1
i was pushing a bare ground wire from a usb into the ground port on a pc fan, it was still plugged into the pc.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Okay, make my day and explain why one would do such a thing.

From post #1
i was pushing a bare ground wire from a usb into the ground port on a pc fan, it was still plugged into the pc.
Had plus minus wires inserted into fan header to test a fan. Fan stopped when one of the wires came loose. Usually id unplug it then fix it but i was lazy and fixed it while it was still plugged in. It was a dumb move
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
Hi,
Most people might have used a port of a known good fan to test another fan with,
Still shutting down first though and restarting....
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom assembled by me :}
OS
Win-7-Pro64bit 7-H-Prem-64bit
CPU
i7-5930K 2nd i9-9940x both water blocked VRM's too
Motherboard
ASUS SABERTOOTH X99 2nd ASUS x299 Apex
Memory
Trident-z 3200C14 2nd Trident-z 3600C16
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA 1080ti ftw3 2nd Titan Xp both water blocked
Sound Card
Built-in Realtek
Monitor(s) Displays
1-AOC G2460PG 24"G-Sync 144Hz/ 2nd 1-ASUS VG248QE 24" 144Hz
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 144Hz
Hard Drives
2-Samsung M.2 Evo & Evo Plus
2-Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD's/ 3-2.5 W.D. Black 1tb-&3-1tb/3-3.5 WD Black 1tb hdd's
PSU
EVGA SuperNOVA 1000-P2 2nd 1200-P2
Case
2-Corsair Obsidian Series 450D Black ATX Mid Tower
Cooling
Custom water loops
Keyboard
Logitech G710+/ 2nd Logitech G910
Mouse
2-RedDragon M901 Perdition 16400 dpi Gaming mouse = wired
Internet Speed
Comcast Ping 19ms 89.31mbps download speed 6.12mbps upload
Antivirus
Malwarebytes Pro/ Superantispyware Pro
Browser
FireFox & Pale moon
Other Info
2nd ASUS X299 Apex/Intel i9-9940x with Custom water loop/7H-Prem-x64/Corsair 450D case/Ram Trident-z 3600C16 4x8gb / Samsung970Evo plus 500gb SSD/Dual ssd EZ swap evo/PSU EVGA SuperNova 1200w-P2 80+Platinum/GPU Titan Xp /8-ML-140 on push-pull on 2-280GTX rads
Hi,
Most people might have used a port of a known good fan to test another fan with,
Still shutting down first though and restarting....
Yes it was stupid, but everything still works (so far). Im so glad i didnt damage the laptop
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
Would it be safe to continue making my usb fan but cut and solder and insulate the connectors for extra safety. Would the usb port still be able to drive the usb fan after that. Things all work fine, but what kind of minor damage could there be that arnt effecting me
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
Please post a website of the fan you are trying to use.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Would it be safe to continue making my usb fan but cut and solder and insulate the connectors for extra safety. Would the usb port still be able to drive the usb fan after that. Things all work fine, but what kind of minor damage could there be that arnt effecting me
Those PC fans are meant to work with 12 Volts. USB ports provide 5 Volts, so it won't turn as fast as it should. Then there is the current to consider. You may want to look at the fan to see if it has a label saying how much current it draws in Amps or milliAmps. You don't want to go over 500 milliAmps when drawing from a USB port or you'll damage it.

My advice: If you want a USB powered fan, buy one specifically designed for the purpose.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Mellon Labs (custom build)
OS
Win 7 Pro x64/Win 10 Pro x64 dual boot
CPU
AMD FX 8350 Vishera @ 4200
Motherboard
ASUS M5A97 R2.0
Memory
16 GB Mushkin Blackline DDR3-2400 @ 1866 (9-10-10-10-31)
Graphics Card(s)
XFX Radeon R9 280 Double D Black Edition
Sound Card
Realtek HD Audio on MB. Sounds great.
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer 24", Acer 22"
Screen Resolution
3840 x 1080
Hard Drives
1 x Mushkin Chronos 120 GB SSD (Win 10)
1 x Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB SSD (Win 7)
1 x WD 1TB SATA Blue
1 x WD 1TB SATA Green
PSU
Corsair TX-750
Case
CoolerMaster HAF 912+
Cooling
Coolermaster Seidon 240M Liquid AIO. 6 case fans
Keyboard
Logitech G710+
Mouse
Logitech G500s
Internet Speed
Much better since I got fiber, but still way overpriced.
Antivirus
MSE, Malware Bytes for scanning
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Corsair VOID USB headphones.

A Mellon Labs X-1 - LCD Smartie driven system status display.

Brought to you by the letter E
Would it be safe to continue making my usb fan but cut and solder and insulate the connectors for extra safety. Would the usb port still be able to drive the usb fan after that. Things all work fine, but what kind of minor damage could there be that arnt effecting me
Those PC fans are meant to work with 12 Volts. USB ports provide 5 Volts, so it won't turn as fast as it should. Then there is the current to consider. You may want to look at the fan to see if it has a label saying how much current it draws in Amps or milliAmps. You don't want to go over 500 milliAmps when drawing from a USB port or you'll damage it.

My advice: If you want a USB powered fan, buy one specifically designed for the purpose.
Its only 200mA
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
I would suggest stop playing USB port games with that fan. It could cost you a motherboard.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
I would suggest stop playing USB port games with that fan. It could cost you a motherboard.
Is 200mA too much?. And if i safely solder the connectors, then its safe isnt it? Im not gonna do a half job next time. Im just glad it didnt cost me this time
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
There are battery charge/discharge circuits that limit the current that can flow each way. Every reputable battery manufacturer uses a charge/discharge chip set that protects against short circuits. Your battery is fine.
Ok well battery check said the battery is ok. But last time i ran off batteries it worked fine then suddenly jumped from 45% to 7%. But note that the computer was on sleep for a while just before that. Any idea, i hope its not my worst nightmare. This has happend yesterday once too. But afterwards i charged it again and it discharged as normal with no jumping. Is this to do with sleep mode
 
Last edited:

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
There are battery charge/discharge circuits that limit the current that can flow each way. Every reputable battery manufacturer uses a charge/discharge chip set that protects against short circuits. Your battery is fine.
Ok well battery check said the battery is ok. But last time i ran off batteries it worked fine then suddenly jumped from 45% to 7%. But note that the computer was on sleep for a while just before that. Any idea, i hope its not my worst nightmare
Large jumps like that can indicate that one or more cells has gone bad. It might be coincidental (i.e. the cells just happened to fail at this time). Or maybe the surge in current pushed the weak cells over the edge. The current surge should have stayed well below any level that could damage the batteries. That is what good short circuit protection chips do: they limit current to prevent damage. Poor protection circuits might not kick in soon enough.


You said that it was an old fan. The voltage rating should be written on the fan. If it is rated for 200ma @ 12 volt, it will probably draw more current @ 5 volts.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Employer provided Dell Latitude
OS
W7 Pro SP1 64bit
CPU
i7
Memory
8GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD Graphics
Hard Drives
crappy SSD
Antivirus
Employer mandated Symantec Endpoint Protection
Browser
Pale Moon 64bit, IE11 64bit & Chrome 64bit
There are battery charge/discharge circuits that limit the current that can flow each way. Every reputable battery manufacturer uses a charge/discharge chip set that protects against short circuits. Your battery is fine.
Ok well battery check said the battery is ok. But last time i ran off batteries it worked fine then suddenly jumped from 45% to 7%. But note that the computer was on sleep for a while just before that. Any idea, i hope its not my worst nightmare
Large jumps like that can indicate that one or more cells has gone bad. It might be coincidental (i.e. the cells just happened to fail at this time). Or maybe the surge in current pushed the weak cells over the edge. The current surge should have stayed well below any level that could damage the batteries. That is what good short circuit protection chips do: they limit current to prevent damage. Poor protection circuits might not kick in soon enough.


You said that it was an old fan. The voltage rating should be written on the fan. If it is rated for 200ma @ 12 volt, it will probably draw more current @ 5 volts.
I still dont get how most of the time it discharges fully fine. And this battery is less than a year old. Would the hp batter calibration possibly caused this since i ran it after the fire
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
If the battery discharges fine most of the time, then the cells are probably fine.

I don't use any 3rd party apps for battery management...
...so I'm not sure what problems can happen when you use them.

Maybe other HP users can help you with that.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Employer provided Dell Latitude
OS
W7 Pro SP1 64bit
CPU
i7
Memory
8GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD Graphics
Hard Drives
crappy SSD
Antivirus
Employer mandated Symantec Endpoint Protection
Browser
Pale Moon 64bit, IE11 64bit & Chrome 64bit
If the battery discharges fine most of the time, then the cells are probably fine.

I don't use any 3rd party apps for battery management...
...so I'm not sure what problems can happen when you use them.

Maybe other HP users can help you with that.
1 last thing unrelated. My power port on the laptop is slightly loose. If i wiggle the charger plug slightly while in the laptop port it will have some play and move up on am angle slightly but trying to do it down or side to side doesnt work, it stays firm, only happens pushing up. Will this ever cause an issue
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 pro x64 (or win 10 pro)
I do not know how HP mounts their power connector on their motherboard. I have seen laptops where the power connector was intentionally allowed to flex with respect to the motherboard and case.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Employer provided Dell Latitude
OS
W7 Pro SP1 64bit
CPU
i7
Memory
8GB
Graphics Card(s)
Intel HD Graphics
Hard Drives
crappy SSD
Antivirus
Employer mandated Symantec Endpoint Protection
Browser
Pale Moon 64bit, IE11 64bit & Chrome 64bit
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