Hardware won't start at all.. sort of..?

nad

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Hey forum. I have a pretty weird dilemma and I need some help. I'm not sure if this is the place but it's the only one I know of :o

K it was just recently on a fine day that I realized that my computer (hardware) won't even boot up. I checked the whole power problem jazz by checking the jacks and noticed every thing connected to it was on and working properly except my computer.

Before I continue, I'll note that my computer doesn't have a power switch on the back, only a switch that indicates what power it's supplying (115 and 230 i think?) and a green light that is on to indicate that it's receiving power (this light is normally turned on as with my USP wireless which has blue light even when my computer is fully turned off).

Anyways, I tried to turn it again and here's what I observed:

1. From the inside, nothing looks out of place, burned out, nor noticeably wrong.
2. When i press the power button, the fans begin rotating literally for a SPLIT second before all power seems lost and the computer becomes dead (the green light on the back even goes out).

Fortunately I found a way to remedy this as I'm here requesting help from my computer. If I plug out the power chord that connects to the COMPUTER, and wait around 30 seconds to put it back on and wait another 30 seconds to a minute before pressing the button, it turns on!

But I notice that it isn't the way it's suppose to be or used to be. When it turns on, the fans initially rotates really hard as if it received tremendous current too fast and then it begins to slow down to normal and everything seems to work fine except for the high buzzing noise that my computer now makes. This high buzzing noise seem to continue and show whenever it is working hard during start up, but after everything is uploaded on start up, the high buzzing stops even when it's working hard again and everything seems perfectly normal. (I can play demanding video games, listen to music, etc etc)

Sorry for the huge flood of details but that is the problem. What do you think the problem is? Do you guys think it's safe to leave the computer on and/or use the same remedy method to turn it on? What should I do?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell/Studio 540
OS
Windows 7
CPU
Intel® Core™ 2 Quad processor Q9400 (6MB L2, 2.66GHz)
Memory
4GB Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM at 800MHz- 2DIMMs
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce GTS 240 1024MB
Have you opened device manager to see if there are any problem devices? Strange the buzzing noise - does it sound like a fan - sometimes they can get dirt in them or the bearing wears out, but only when it starts - it is possible if it is a fan bearing I guess starting to wear - but Im no expert in this field. Perhaps, wait for more replies. If your impatient, with good reason, take it to the local shop to have someone to look at it. Could also be the power supply - they get really clogged with dirt, and then start overheating, and eventually die if you dont get to them in time.
 

My Computer My Computer

OS
XP, Vista, W7 64bit Home Premium
CPU
Intel Core Duo 6850 3.0 ghz @ 3.7 ghz
Motherboard
Asus P5E
Memory
4GB Corsair DDR 2 PC-6400
Graphics Card(s)
Ati 4870 1ghz
Sound Card
Supreme FX 11
Monitor(s) Displays
View Sonic VX1962wm
Screen Resolution
1680 X1050
Hard Drives
3 Seagate Sata Drives 160gb 250gb 500gb
PSU
Thermaltake 600 watt
Case
NZXT Alpha
Cooling
3X120cm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Digital Media Pro Keyboard
Mouse
Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical
Internet Speed
1.5Mb to 8Mb/384k
Well you might have to own up and tell us what you recently installed. ;)

The symptoms you describe are often caused by incorrect fitting of leads on connectors ie one is shorting and PSU safety cutoff kicks in due to pushed in wrong way round.
Bit odd the PSU then works correctly!!


Can also be caused by a half pushed in lead either PSU power lead or part ie DVD to motherboard connector lead.

PSU is overloaded / poss. about to fail / PSU fan not kicking in first time

Pull out all your usb connections except for mouse/keyboard - Test

Then try some of the above - checking connections are correct on motherboard/back of all parts connected + pushing leads/connectors in - everywhere inc cards and memory/bios chips down into their slots.

Is your Dell still under warranty coz it woz only released a yr or so ago.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
D.I.Y.
OS
WIN7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
AMD FX8150/Trinity A10-5700
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth v.1 /Asus F2A85-M Pro
Memory
G-Skill 2400 x2 @ 1866 (both pc's)
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire (factory OC version) AMD 7770
Sound Card
onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
T260 Samsung
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital Sata 2TB/1TB Caviar Blacks
Buffalo 1TB usb (excellent drive)
PSU
Be-Quiet 700W E-9/Be-Quiet 550W E-9(E-9 = built by FSP)
Case
Antec P183/Antec P180mini
Cooling
x2 Xigmatek SXHH7-U01 + C-Master R4-EXBB-20PK-R0 120mm Fans
Keyboard
Cherry
Mouse
MS Explorer 3.0
Other Info
LG Blu ray combo
Pioneer 207D/208 Blu ray burners
You may need a new power supply. That "unplug it, wait, plug it, wait, and it comes on" bit just smells of bad or leaking capacitors.

Also, a system will not start if the CPU fan header is not connected. But if the fan on the CPU does not spin up the system may shut down. Leave the case open and watch the fans as you boot. If the CPU fan is not spinning that would explain the behavior and (possibly) the noise.

You can (carefully) use the eraser end of a pencil to gently stop the fans in the computer for a brief second. Do this while the noise is happening. When the noise stops when you stop the fan you have found the problem fan.

The fan noise and the power issue do not necessarily need to be related.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
I had a very similar problem. Look on your motherboard for a CMOS reset Jumper and make sure it is not on the pins for reseting.

Also, try taking out the battery for a couple of minutes.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
The HAFmeister (Custom)
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 RTM + SP1
CPU
Intel Core i7 950 3.06GHZ (OC'd to 3.99Ghz)
Motherboard
Asus Rampage III Extreme x58 SATA 6GB & USB 3.0
Memory
6GB OCZ Reaper HPC Edition PC3-16000 (set 1606Mhz 8-8-8-26)
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA Nvidia Geforce GTX 570
Sound Card
Creative SB X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Professional Series
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung SM2433BW 24" Widescreen Monitor
Screen Resolution
1920x1200
Hard Drives
Western Digital Caviar Black 500GB 32Mb Buffer SATA II
Western Digital Caviar Black 750GB 32Mb Buffer SATA II
Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 16Mb Buffer SATA II
Western Digital My Book Essential Edition 750GB USB
Samsung Spinpoint 2TB SATA II
PSU
Thermaltake Toughpower 1200w (Modular)
Case
CoolerMaster HAF-932
Cooling
Zalman Reserator XT and ZM-WB5 Plus - GPU uses Stock coolers
Keyboard
Logitech G510
Mouse
Logitech G9 Gaming Mouse
Internet Speed
3MB Profile - 350-400kbs (Real-Speed)
Other Info
IcyBox Hot-Swap Bay,
Logitech G27 Steering Wheel,
Xbox 360 Wirless Elite Controller with Microsoft Reciever and
Play & Charge Kit,
Belkin USB Wireless Adaptor,
GAME Generic Controller (Playstation Looky-Likey),
Epson SX125 All-in-One.
But I notice that it isn't the way it's suppose to be or used to be. When it turns on, the fans initially rotates really hard as if it received tremendous current too fast and then it begins to slow down to normal and everything seems to work fine except for the high buzzing noise that my computer now makes.

Ok... from your description of the fan behavior and the whistling noise, your power supply could be feeding a rather signficant overvoltage into your system... and that's about as "Not Good" as it gets...

1) Stop trying to fix the computer. Unplug it. Get that power supply tested, while you still have a computer.

2) There is something seriously distressing that power supply, which means you may have a short someplace in that computer. It will take a qualified technician to find it.

Sooooo... In your shoes I'd live with the bill and take it to the shop.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebrew
OS
XP Pro SP3 X86 / Win7 Pro X86
CPU
Amd 64 x2 4200 (2.4ghz)
Motherboard
Asus M2N-MX SE Plus
Memory
Kingston DDR2 800 2gb
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GF-8400
Sound Card
Realtek on Motherboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer x-193bw
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Western Digital 500g
PSU
350watt In-Win
Case
In-Win
Cooling
Air
Keyboard
yes
Mouse
yes
Internet Speed
5mpbs
Other Info
Also ASRock ION 330 as HTPC (on XP).
Acer Aspire as GP netbook (on XP).
Neo - I swear to my honor and integrity that I did not install any software/hardware. Not that i know of.

CommonTater - Mind explaining # 2) please? If there was a short in the computer then I don't see how it works.
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell/Studio 540
OS
Windows 7
CPU
Intel® Core™ 2 Quad processor Q9400 (6MB L2, 2.66GHz)
Memory
4GB Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM at 800MHz- 2DIMMs
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce GTS 240 1024MB
CommonTater - Mind explaining # 2) please? If there was a short in the computer then I don't see how it works.

Lets say (just for example) your NIC card is cooked and causing a short to ground... your power supply probably puts up enough current to still supply the rest of the computer into marginal function... but it is going to be seriously strained by the shorted out board.

In electronics there is no such thing as a dead short... All circuits have some resistance, albeit in fractions of an ohm... So lets say your shorted nic card has become a 1/4 ohm resistor on the +5 volt line... Ohm's law for resistance tells us that will draw 5 volts / .25 ohm == 20 amps. Now most computer power supplies can put up more than that... some get up to 40 and 50 amps on the 5 volt line... but that 20 amp draw is going to put a significant load on that powersupply even while the rest of the computer appears to work...

Does that answer your question?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebrew
OS
XP Pro SP3 X86 / Win7 Pro X86
CPU
Amd 64 x2 4200 (2.4ghz)
Motherboard
Asus M2N-MX SE Plus
Memory
Kingston DDR2 800 2gb
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GF-8400
Sound Card
Realtek on Motherboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer x-193bw
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Western Digital 500g
PSU
350watt In-Win
Case
In-Win
Cooling
Air
Keyboard
yes
Mouse
yes
Internet Speed
5mpbs
Other Info
Also ASRock ION 330 as HTPC (on XP).
Acer Aspire as GP netbook (on XP).
damn... yes it does. Sigh, i don't wanna go through the trouble of sending this whole thing to dell and stuff. It's still under warranty but still. gaahhh!!
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell/Studio 540
OS
Windows 7
CPU
Intel® Core™ 2 Quad processor Q9400 (6MB L2, 2.66GHz)
Memory
4GB Dual Channel DDR2 SDRAM at 800MHz- 2DIMMs
Graphics Card(s)
nVidia GeForce GTS 240 1024MB
Neo - I swear to my honor and integrity that I did not install any software/hardware. Not that i know of.

CommonTater - Mind explaining # 2) please? If there was a short in the computer then I don't see how it works.

I remember some cases of dodgy microsoft mice many yrs ago their leads/wires broke inside causing a short.

Do you use a keyboard or mouse with leads?

Have your checked inside the mains plug for a loose/stray wire or is it factory sealed onto the lead?
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
D.I.Y.
OS
WIN7 Ultimate 64bit
CPU
AMD FX8150/Trinity A10-5700
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth v.1 /Asus F2A85-M Pro
Memory
G-Skill 2400 x2 @ 1866 (both pc's)
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire (factory OC version) AMD 7770
Sound Card
onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
T260 Samsung
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Western Digital Sata 2TB/1TB Caviar Blacks
Buffalo 1TB usb (excellent drive)
PSU
Be-Quiet 700W E-9/Be-Quiet 550W E-9(E-9 = built by FSP)
Case
Antec P183/Antec P180mini
Cooling
x2 Xigmatek SXHH7-U01 + C-Master R4-EXBB-20PK-R0 120mm Fans
Keyboard
Cherry
Mouse
MS Explorer 3.0
Other Info
LG Blu ray combo
Pioneer 207D/208 Blu ray burners
damn... yes it does. Sigh, i don't wanna go through the trouble of sending this whole thing to dell and stuff. It's still under warranty but still. gaahhh!!

I promise you there is absolutely nothing to gain by continuing to operate a computer with a bad power supply and possibly other hardware issues. All you will do is worsen the damage.

If it is under warranty this is Dells problem not yours...
 

My Computer My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Homebrew
OS
XP Pro SP3 X86 / Win7 Pro X86
CPU
Amd 64 x2 4200 (2.4ghz)
Motherboard
Asus M2N-MX SE Plus
Memory
Kingston DDR2 800 2gb
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GF-8400
Sound Card
Realtek on Motherboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer x-193bw
Screen Resolution
1440 x 900
Hard Drives
Western Digital 500g
PSU
350watt In-Win
Case
In-Win
Cooling
Air
Keyboard
yes
Mouse
yes
Internet Speed
5mpbs
Other Info
Also ASRock ION 330 as HTPC (on XP).
Acer Aspire as GP netbook (on XP).
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