Solved Help me reduce power usage on this PC

ish4d0w

New member
Member
VIP
Local time
7:28 PM
Messages
179
Hi

I got an old PC lying around (and collecting dust :D). I was thinking whether I could still use it for something.
What I wonder is that how much power would it use, compared to todays' computer? I heard that these old processors are power hogs, consuming a lot of electricity, running up the bills. Is that true?

Either way, I want to reduce power usage to as little as possible. Please give me tips to do that. Since this is a desktop PC, I can swap out quite everything. I have several power supplies lying around, for example.

This PC would be used as a secondary computer, for quite light purposes like browsing, office work, listening to music, watching movies (not HD), just DVDs and divx. Not really gaming, maybe very old games. I know it's not powerful, it doesn't have to be. It just needs to be as energy efficent and silent as possible. Currently, it is loud as hell. (CPU fan mostly, it is running at full speed without the need - should I try speedfan? it seems to work with it, but I wanna automatize so it can spin it up when things go hot)


It has:
Code:
[B][U]CURRENTLY INSTALLED:[/U][/B]
Motherboard: ABIT VA-10
CPU: AMD Athlon XP 3000+
Memory: 1 GB DDR1 (I believe 333 Mhz) [Layout: 1 x 1 GB module, other slots free]
Graphics: ATI Radeon 9250SE AGP 128MB Dedicated (+ onboard VIA UniChrome but is not in use now)
Hard drives: 1 x 80GB Samsung ATA Drive 7200RPM

Other PCI cards:
- PCI Network card: TENDA Gigabit (because onboard network is totally fried [I](with cable in: it shows connected/disconnected state altering several times per every second, I couldn't even possibly pull it out and plug it back in that fast)[/I], but this one works). [B]Again, unsure about power usage[/B]
- PCI SATA RAID Card: (Silicon Image card) -> for the possibility to install SATA drives, currently none. [B][B]again, unsure about power usage[/B]

Others:
Case fan
CD Drive (barely used, in 99% of uptime is idle). ([B]does it draw any significant amount of power?[/B])

Power supply:
Currently installed: 280W (seems to work fine)


Upgrade vectors - things I have and can plug in:
- 60 GB SSD (SATA, but I have a SATA Card already in. The computer doesn't need much storage space, of course 80GB is better but does it worth it in regards of power & speed? Do you vote for the SSD?)
- Power supply: The current one is the oldest (and used for years, I don't know if there's an aging progress for power supplies?), I have another one (about 6 or 7 years old, but barely used) 400W. If I plug it in, but leave the same parts inside, would it use more energy? (Would it use 400W? Does it always use that much power? Does it ever use it?) 280W sounds better for me but man that power supply is so run down. (but still works). I believe it was used for 7-8 hours a day, almost everyday. You can imagine how much dust it has inside :D


So please help me get this PC "thinner" :D
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Compaq 6720s
OS
Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2310 @ 1.46GHz
Motherboard
Hewlett-Packard 30D8
Memory
4,00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
(1) Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family (2) Mobile
Sound Card
(1) Bluetooth Hands-free Audio (2) Bluetooth Stereo Audio
Screen Resolution
1280 x 800 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) Hitachi HTS542516K9SA00 ATA Device (2) Multi Flash Reader USB Device
I can't answer all but here goes:

- SSD for sure, lower power req. and faster
- Use PSU with enough Wattage, it won't consume more power with a bigger Watt PSU. Consider like the top speed of a car.
- You can restrict the CPU clock to a lower value with a power plan (Control Panel - Power options)
- Possibly a low profile GPU
- Remove CD drive power cable after install or not at all.
- Remove SATA RAID card
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 SP1
CPU
AMD Phenom 2 1090T
Motherboard
Gigabyte GA-890FXA-UD5
Memory
2x8GB Kingston HyperX Fury Black 1600Mhz Unganged
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Realtek On-Board HD 7.1 Audio / Logitech G35
Monitor(s) Displays
3xAcer GD245HQ
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 512GB SSD - OS /
WD Caviar Black SATA 3 - 1 TBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GBx2 - Dynamic RAID 0 /
WD Caviar Green SATA 2 - 640GB - Internal Backup /
Seagate Barracude SATA 3 - 3TB - External Backup/ Sync
PSU
HighPower 1000W
Case
Cooler Master HAF 932
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Logitech G19
Mouse
Logitech G500
Internet Speed
100/4 Mbit Cable (100GB quota)
Antivirus
ZoneAlarm Extreme Security / MBAM Pro / MBAE Free / SAS Free
Browser
IE 11 - Firefox - Chrome
Other Info
Logitech F710/ G27/ G940/ Z5500 // TrackIR 5 // Nvidia 3D Surround Vision
I don't think you have a problem. The 3000+ has an average power consumption of 65 Watts which is quite normal. Replacing the HDD with a SSD is a good idea. SSDs use very little power. You do not need a 400 Watt PSU - 250 Watt should be ample.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP, Dell, Gateway, Toshiba - 4 laptops and 2 desktops
OS
Vista, Windows7, Mint Mate, Zorin, Windows 8
CPU
from 1.6GHz Duo to i7
Monitor(s) Displays
2x HP w2207
Hard Drives
5x HDD, 7x SSD, 12x Externals
Keyboard
with trackball - no mices
Mouse
Trackball mice
Internet Speed
DSL 6000
Barring something unusual, the noise is coming from fans--moreso than from drives. You might even have electrical "whine" from the motherboard or power supply, unrelated to drives or fans.

Get your ears inside it and listen for noise sources.

What you can do depends on your budget. If the case is cheesy--with lots of openings and vents, thin sheet metal or mesh construction, you may still hear "quiet" fans more than you'd like.

You say it's fast enough. So, no need to change motherboard or processor.

I'd think a different PSU and probably a new/different fan on the cooler and for intakes/exhaust would solve most of the problem.

What size intake and exhaust fan mounts does that case have?

New decent case fans might cost $8 to $20 each, depending on required size.

You could get a new CPU cooler with new fan included that would likely be a lot quieter than the stock cooler for maybe $20.

Changing to an SSD would have very very little effect on power consumption--maybe 6 or 8 watts typically. Standard hard drives use under 10 watts when at full speed.

It's going to use only the power it needs, regardless of how much power the PSU can supposedly supply.

What are the brand names and model numbers of the PSUs you have at hand? Do you know if they have the appropriate connectors for your motherboard and drives?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Probably one of the best power saving measures is to shut down the computer when you are not using it. Also turn off the power supply at the wall as well, as leaving the power on to the computer does use a small amount of power as it is really in standby mode.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built using existing case
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit sp1
CPU
Intel i5 3570 3.4Ghz Ivy Bridge SKT 1155 quad core
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-HD3 SKT 1155 2xSata 3, 4x USB 3.0
Memory
G-Skill Rip Jaws 16Gb (8x2) DDR3 -1600 PC3 12800 CL 10 red
Graphics Card(s)
Gigabyte NVIDIA GT610 1Gb DDR3 810/1200 PCI-E 2.0 Silent
Sound Card
NVIDIA High Definition & Realtech High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x Philips 226V4L 16:9 aspect ratio
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 HD
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256gb SSD, SATA 3.
Hitachi Touro Portable 1tb, USB 3.0 HDD used for image b/ups.
PSU
Corsair VS450
Case
Codeng
Cooling
PSU fan & CPU fan
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Logitech Wireless trackball M570
Internet Speed
Wireless 3G. 3mg down & 550kb up.
Antivirus
Bitdefender Internet Security 2020
Browser
Opera (Current Version) & Firefox
Other Info
MS Office 2013 Pro. Davis weather station software. MGE Nova 600 avr UPS.
Thanks everyone. I'll post the brand names soon.

The 400W one is called Golden Power. I'm unsure about the ~200W supply but I'll check soon

I believe the case fan is 8cm
The case is old an "cheesy", lots of openings on the back, it generates a lot of noise. Quite basic case.

This is a 10 years old computer. Would the motherboard's capacitors be still good or would it use more power than it did before? How about the power supply? The 200W one has about 8 years uptime. Is it still as good as it was? Or would it not be power efficient anymore?
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Compaq 6720s
OS
Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2310 @ 1.46GHz
Motherboard
Hewlett-Packard 30D8
Memory
4,00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
(1) Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family (2) Mobile
Sound Card
(1) Bluetooth Hands-free Audio (2) Bluetooth Stereo Audio
Screen Resolution
1280 x 800 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) Hitachi HTS542516K9SA00 ATA Device (2) Multi Flash Reader USB Device
You don't say where you're located but there's an inexpensive (<$20) meter called Kill-A-Watt Electricity Monitor that you can plug in between the wall outlet and the PC (or any device up to ~1500W). It has several display options including how many watts a device is using. And if you know your rate, it will calculate the cost of electricity for that device. It would be a good control and provide a base number to work from, if you do make changes. You'll end up checking everything in the house/office like I did. :)

Capacitors as well as all electronic components age but they will either be good or not work at all as designed. For an Intel CPU, I recommend HWinfo32/64 to monitor temperatures and voltages on the motherboard but it's known to have a problem with AMD APUs. I'm not sure what is being recommended for AMDs but SpeedFan has always had problems with accuracy for any CPU.

I would be hesitant to change the PSW for a lower output unit. Not all power supplies are rated accurately or provide power efficiently. Check the INPUT current on the PSW. You may find a cheaper 200W could draw more power than a better 400W PSW. A PC will only use what it needs so over-supplying makes no difference. It's the same with any electrical device in your house. I have 200A service to the house but a 60W light bulb still uses only 60W. ;)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Built 2/11/2011
OS
Windows 7 Pro-x64
CPU
i7-2600 3.4GHz - 3.8GHz Turbo
Motherboard
Intel DH67BL-B3
Memory
8Gb - 2x4GB, Muskin 991770 PC3-1333
Graphics Card(s)
Integrated Intel HD 2000
Sound Card
Integrated Intel 10.1 HD, RealTek ALC892
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus LCD VH222H, Haier HL24XSL2a
Screen Resolution
1920x1080, 1920x1080
Hard Drives
Crucial SSD C300-128Gb,
Western Digital WD5002AALX - 500Gb,
Western Digital WD7501AALS - 750Gb
PSU
Seasonic 650W 80+ Gold Modular
Case
Rosewill Defender
Cooling
Stock CPU, Four 120mm case fans, PCH fan added
Keyboard
Logitech EX100 Y-RBH94 Wireless
Mouse
Logitech EX100 M-RCE95 Wireless
Internet Speed
3.0/1.5 Mbs
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Microsoft Internet Explorer 11
Other Info
Antec Veris Premier-Multimedia IR Station,
Cyber Accoustics-3602 Speakers,
AFT XM-5U Card Reader,
Hauppauge TV-HVR-2250,
Sony LX300 USB Turntable
You don't say where you're located but there's an inexpensive (<$20) meter called Kill-A-Watt Electricity Monitor that you can plug in between the wall outlet and the PC (or any device up to ~1500W). It has several display options including how many watts a device is using. And if you know your rate, it will calculate the cost of electricity for that device. It would be a good control and provide a base number to work from, if you do make changes. You'll end up checking everything in the house/office like I did. :)

Capacitors as well as all electronic components age but they will either be good or not work at all as designed. For an Intel CPU, I recommend HWinfo32/64 to monitor temperatures and voltages on the motherboard but it's known to have a problem with AMD APUs. I'm not sure what is being recommended for AMDs but SpeedFan has always had problems with accuracy for any CPU.

I would be hesitant to change the PSW for a lower output unit. Not all power supplies are rated accurately or provide power efficiently. Check the INPUT current on the PSW. You may find a cheaper 200W could draw more power than a better 400W PSW. A PC will only use what it needs so over-supplying makes no difference. It's the same with any electrical device in your house. I have 200A service to the house but a 60W light bulb still uses only 60W. ;)

Great idea! Thanks! :) I will get that meter.
I'll try with the 400W then.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Compaq 6720s
OS
Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2310 @ 1.46GHz
Motherboard
Hewlett-Packard 30D8
Memory
4,00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
(1) Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family (2) Mobile
Sound Card
(1) Bluetooth Hands-free Audio (2) Bluetooth Stereo Audio
Screen Resolution
1280 x 800 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) Hitachi HTS542516K9SA00 ATA Device (2) Multi Flash Reader USB Device
Putting in an ssd or swapping power supplies will have very little effect on your electric usage, maybe only enough to measure but not actually perceive in actual use.

While an ssd uses less power than an hdd, an hdd doesn't use that much power to begin with so changing to an ssd will have only minimal effect on your power bill.

Whether you have a 4000KW psu or you have a 200W psu, the components in the PC will draw the same amount of power. One psu may be more efficient than another but I doubt swapping out the psu will show any difference in your power bill.

As Ranger4 said, turn off the PC when not using it, in addition, set the display to shutoff when you're not sitting and typing. You can be very aggressive with that setting, set a low time limit such as 2 minutes.

As far as the noise, if the hdd is making any kind of mechanical noise then an ssd will help there. Switch out to quieter fans and get a variable speed fan for your cpu cooler.

If you could find someone to buy that computer, you could probably do what you want with a $35 Raspberry Pi. The Pi has no fans and only uses a 5V phone charger for power. Only caveat is that the Pi runs a version of Linux instead of Windows.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built desktop, Dell G15 5511 Gaming laptop,MS Surface Pro 7 tablet
OS
W10 Pro desktop, W11 laptop, W11 Pro tablet (all 64-bit)
CPU
3.7Ghz 8700K i7, i7-11800H, i7-1065G7
Motherboard
ASUS TUF Z370-Pro Gaming in desktop
Memory
16G desktop, 16G laptop, 4G tablet
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon RX580, RTX 3060, Intel Iris Plus
Sound Card
High Definition Audio (Built-in to mobo)
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung U32J59 32" (2x), 15.6", 12"
Screen Resolution
3840x2160, 3840x2160, 1920x1080, 2160x1440
Hard Drives
500G SSD for OS; 2T, 10T & 15T HDDs for Data on Desktop, 1TB SSD laptop, 128G SSD tablet.
PSU
Corsair CX 750M
Case
Antec 100
Cooling
CM 212+
Keyboard
IBM Model M - used continuously since 1986
Mouse
Microsoft Pro IntelliMouse
Internet Speed
400M down 8M up
Antivirus
Windows Defender
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Built my first computer (8Mhz 8088cpu, 640K RAM, 20MB HDD, 2 360K floppy drives) in 1985 and have been building them for myself, relatives and friends ever since.
"Golden Power" is almost certainly a shaky power supply brand; I can't locate who actually made it. That's likely just a brand name, not a manufacturer.

Any mediocre PSU that has been in use for 8 years has a questionable prognosis. There's not much a layman can do to quiet them. Fan replacement is possible, but not the job for a typical civilian.

That's a socket 462 (socket A) motherboard, introduced about 2002. Abit was a big name at that time, but declined rapidly around 2004-2005.

AMD Athlon XP 3000+ - AXDA3000DKV4D

The CPU has a TDP of about 74 watts and was over $500 when introduced in 2003.

The entire PC isn't likely to use much power, but efficiency is the least of your worries. A 10 percent lower efficiency on a modest PC that runs 12 hours a day, 365 days a year might cost you an extra $15 per year, given average US power rates. Roughly a dollar a year per percent. More if it's running 24/7; more if it's a higher powered PC, more if you were working it hard (gaming, for instance).

Killawatts are very handy devices to have around generally for household appliances, but I don't know that I'd buy one just for this problem alone.

You'd probably find it difficult to find a new replacement for that motherboard.

Shaky case, shaky PSU, very old motherboard and CPU. Personally, I'd limit my fixes to noise-reduction--change PSUs and case fans at most. Your low-quality case with lots of openings may defeat most of your efforts.

It shouldn't use much power, but it would be tough to justify buying a new power supply--buying oats for a very old horse. Maybe use the quietest of the PSUs you have on hand, assuming they have proper connectors.

Your CPU cooler fan may be making a racket. I'm not sure you could find a new cooler for a motherboard/CPU that old, so you may be limited to fan replacement only.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Thanks all. I'll see what I can do, but it's possible I'll only replace the case. It's hard to find parts for this one
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Compaq 6720s
OS
Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2310 @ 1.46GHz
Motherboard
Hewlett-Packard 30D8
Memory
4,00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
(1) Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family (2) Mobile
Sound Card
(1) Bluetooth Hands-free Audio (2) Bluetooth Stereo Audio
Screen Resolution
1280 x 800 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) Hitachi HTS542516K9SA00 ATA Device (2) Multi Flash Reader USB Device
Old computer parts are like old car parts. The people who have them no they are hard to come by so they raise the price.

When you get done replacing all the things in the computer to become more green you could just turn off a lamp and save the same amount or more of energy.

Don't get confused with power supplies. As long as it's a quality power supply and has more than enough watts your good.

It can be a 1000W power supply and if the computer only request 200W that is all the power supply will put out. The difference is the 1000W power supply will do it with ease therefore less draw from the wall socket.
It is so small that I doubt that most users would have meters to read such small changes.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Old computer parts are like old car parts. The people who have them no they are hard to come by so they raise the price.

When you get done replacing all the things in the computer to become more green you could just turn off a lamp and save the same amount or more of energy.

Don't get confused with power supplies. As long as it's a quality power supply and has more than enough watts your good.

It can be a 1000W power supply and if the computer only request 200W that is all the power supply will put out. The difference is the 1000W power supply will do it with ease therefore less draw from the wall socket.
It is so small that I doubt that most users would have meters to read such small changes.

Thanks. I'll keep the old PC as it is, it is perfect for my grandparents :)
Oh, and great post on the power supplies - very informative, I was always unsure about power supplies :D So thanks ! :D
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
HP Compaq 6720s
OS
Microsoft® Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
CPU
Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU T2310 @ 1.46GHz
Motherboard
Hewlett-Packard 30D8
Memory
4,00 GB
Graphics Card(s)
(1) Mobile Intel(R) 965 Express Chipset Family (2) Mobile
Sound Card
(1) Bluetooth Hands-free Audio (2) Bluetooth Stereo Audio
Screen Resolution
1280 x 800 x 32 bits (4294967296 colors) @ 59 Hz
Hard Drives
(1) Hitachi HTS542516K9SA00 ATA Device (2) Multi Flash Reader USB Device
Your very welcome ish4d0w.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Back
Top