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GarySawyers

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I have two pny 670 video card an I asking what power supply should I use my pc have 875 power supply is that enough power to run? An video cards are 550 watts got 2 of them thx
 

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Alienware
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Windows 7 64bit
CPU
i7 970
Memory
16 g
Graphics Card(s)
2 pny 670 video card
Monitor(s) Displays
Alienware monitor
A quality-made 550W PSU is more than enough (I can prove it).

However, which 875W PSU do you have? What's the make and model? I don't know of any 875W PSUs that are safe to use.
 

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875w PSU sounds like it is OEM from Alienware/Dell.

When a graphics card says it requires 550 watts it is describing the power draw on your entire system not just the graphics card by itself. With another pny670 you might be looking at an additional 150w draw in addition to the recommended 550watts. You say you have a 875w PSU so you should be fine running SLI.
 

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Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit SP1
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EVGA | Products | EVGA GeForce GTX 670 | 02G-P4-2670-KR

For a single card, eVGA recommends a 500W PSU with a minimum of 30A available at +12V. eVGA also claims that the card consumes 170W.

So, if your PSU can provide at least 45A at +12V, you should be OK. (That would max out a good 550W PSU. You probably want more margin.)
 

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homegrown
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Windows 7 Pro X64 SP1
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Asus P9X79 Pro
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16 GB Gskill DDR3-2133
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eVGA GTX680
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Creative X-Fi Titanium
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As PA246Q
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Corsair Force GT, 120 GB
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PCP&C Silencer 750 Crossfire
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Silverstone FT02
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Noctua NH-D14
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cheap Logitech USB
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875w PSU sounds like it is OEM from Alienware/Dell.

When a graphics card says it requires 550 watts it is describing the power draw on your entire system not just the graphics card by itself. With another pny670 you might be looking at an additional 150w draw in addition to the recommended 550watts. You say you have a 875w PSU so you should be fine running SLI.

The PSU requirements stated by both AMD and NVIDIA are referring to peak-rated PSUs. The typical 550W peak-rated PSU has a +12V capacity of about 396W (33A), sometimes less. A good PSU is rated based on its continuous capacity. There are a few good 400W (continuous-rated) PSUs that have a +12V capacity of 396W.

Check this out:

GeForce GTX 670 2 and 3-way SLI review - Power Consumption

With one GTX 670 under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 279W from the wall outlet. Their CPU was idling, so I have to add 130W for the i7-970 under full load. So if the GTX 670 and the i7-970 are under full load simultaneously, then the PSU would be pulling 409W from the wall outlet. Therefore, if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 409W from the wall outlet, then the system is pulling 347W from the PSU. Although, this is an unrealistically high power draw. A more realistic power draw is seen while gaming, and that would be closer to about 300 to maybe 350W tops. This means any quality-made 400W PSU is more than enough because such a quality-made PSU can deliver 400W 24/7 if it's ever needed.

With two GTX 670s under full load in their system, their PSU pulled 433W from the wall outlet. Adding 130W for the CPU again, it comes out to 563W being pulled from the wall outlet. So if the PSU is 85% efficient while pulling 563W from the wall outlet, then that means the system is pulling 478W from the PSU. Of course, the gaming power draw would be about 425 to maybe 475W. This means a quality-made 550W PSU is more than enough because such a PSU can deliver 550W 24/7 if it's ever needed.


EVGA | Products | EVGA GeForce GTX 670 | 02G-P4-2670-KR

For a single card, eVGA recommends a 500W PSU with a minimum of 30A available at +12V. eVGA also claims that the card consumes 170W.

So, if your PSU can provide at least 45A at +12V, you should be OK. (That would max out a good 550W PSU. You probably want more margin.)

30A is is 360W, and that's the typical +12V capacity of a peak-rated 500W PSU. There are many 400W PSUs that have a +12V capacity of 360W. Some of them are rated at 430W because of the +5V and +3.3V rails.

Check out the break-down of the power consumption I posted above.
 

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Why would anybody want a power supply so lacking in watts that it has to work at 70, 80 or even 90% of it capabilities. It does not make sense to me.

I personally don't care what the electrical formulas and charts indicate. The formulas work good in passing test in computer science 102.
Put a quality power supply in the computer that only has to work 30,40 or 50% of it capabilities when a load is put on it. It will run cooler, quieter and longer.

Here is my method.
What ever the max demand of the computer could be, add 200W or more with a quality brand such as Corsair or Seasonic. They will have the proper amps per rail because they are quality. The price difference is minimal. Never cheat your computer with a just get by power supply.
 

My Computer

Computer type
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Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
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Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
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Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
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XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
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Das 4 Professional
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Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
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Why would anybody want a power supply so lacking in watts that it has to work at 70, 80 or even 90% of it capabilities. It does not make sense to me.

I personally don't care what the electrical formulas and charts indicate. The formulas work good in passing test in computer science 102.
Put a quality power supply in the computer that only has to work 30,40 or 50% of it capabilities when a load is put on it. It will run cooler, quieter and longer.

Here is my method.
What ever the max demand of the computer could be, add 200W or more with a quality brand such as Corsair or Seasonic. They will have the proper amps per rail because they are quality. The price difference is minimal. Never cheat your computer with a just get by power supply.

The kind of PSUs I'm talking about would have absolutely no problem. I'm not talking about ultra high-end PSUs that cost "an arm and a leg" either. Powering a system that has two GTX 670s and an i7-970 at stock with a quality-made 750W is absolutely ridiculous, it's totally unnecessary, and it's a huge waste of money. Ask any real PSU expert. Don't just take my word for it.

If you think I don't know what I'm talking about, then ask about me over at Overclock.net. To be quite honest, I'm getting a little tired of how you've contradicted me just about every time I have posted about PSUs since the day I joined. It kind of makes me want to stop coming here.
 

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Why would anybody want a power supply so lacking in watts that it has to work at 70, 80 or even 90% of it capabilities. It does not make sense to me.

I personally don't care what the electrical formulas and charts indicate. The formulas work good in passing test in computer science 102.
Put a quality power supply in the computer that only has to work 30,40 or 50% of it capabilities when a load is put on it. It will run cooler, quieter and longer.

Here is my method.
What ever the max demand of the computer could be, add 200W or more with a quality brand such as Corsair or Seasonic. They will have the proper amps per rail because they are quality. The price difference is minimal. Never cheat your computer with a just get by power supply.

The kind of PSUs I'm talking about would have absolutely no problem. I'm not talking about ultra high-end PSUs that cost "an arm and a leg" either. Powering a system that has two GTX 670s and an i7-970 at stock with a quality-made 750W is absolutely ridiculous, it's totally unnecessary, and it's a huge waste of money. Ask any real PSU expert. Don't just take my word for it.

If you think I don't know what I'm talking about, then ask about me over at Overclock.net. To be quite honest, I'm getting a little tired of how you've contradicted me just about every time I have posted about PSUs since the day I joined. It kind of makes me want to stop coming here.

I do not think it is ridiculous . I have a 700 Watt PSU and I am getting by with it and I only have one GTX 460. If you get a PSU that will be overloaded you will be taking a chance of blowing it and other components. Just because My PSU is a 700 watt PSU does not mean that it uses all of it's power. It is far better to have more than you need than less. This is a Tech Forum and yes some members will disagree with you. I personally do not overclock and couldn't care less about some other forum you post at.
 

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Win 10 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core i7 960 @3.20 GHz
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MSI MS7522
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24.0 GB DDR3
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EVGA GTX 750Ti
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LG E2341 23 Inch
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1920x1080
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1TB Western Dgital 1002FAEX-00Y9A0
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700 Watt
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I do not think it is ridiculous . I have a 700 Watt PSU and I am getting by with it and I only have one GTX 460. If you get a PSU that will be overloaded you will be taking a chance of blowing it and other components.

Only with a low-quality or a generic PSU. The kind of PSUs I am talking about would harmlessly turn off. However, that would never happen because the power consumption is well below the PSU's continuous rating. Let's say that I'm talking about a quality-made 400W PSU that can deliver 400W 24/7 at internal PSU temperatures up to 50°C. That means that a 350W power draw is absolutely nothing for that PSU. That's basically a walk in the park for it.


Just because My PSU is a 700 watt PSU does not mean that it uses all of it's power.

Yeah, I know that, but this has nothing to do with what I'm talking about.

Anyway, which 700W PSU do you have? What is the make and model?


It is far better to have more than you need than less. This is a Tech Forum and yes some members will disagree with you. I personally do not overclock and couldn't care less about some other forum you post it.

I'm not talking about overclocking. I'm talking about asking them over there about me so you can find out what they say about me in regards to what they think I know about PSUs. Maybe you guys will change your opinion about me because right now it seems like I'm being judged as the new guy who doesn't know anything.
 

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It is two years old made by Coolermaster. I doubt that model is still being built.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 10 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core i7 960 @3.20 GHz
Motherboard
MSI MS7522
Memory
24.0 GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
LG E2341 23 Inch
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
1TB Western Dgital 1002FAEX-00Y9A0
1TB Hitachi HDS721010CLA322
PSU
700 Watt
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Haf 912
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Logitech MK710
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Logitech M705
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So, you don't know which one it is? I'm just trying to get to a point, but I don't want to get too far off topic either.
 

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My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 10 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core i7 960 @3.20 GHz
Motherboard
MSI MS7522
Memory
24.0 GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
LG E2341 23 Inch
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
1TB Western Dgital 1002FAEX-00Y9A0
1TB Hitachi HDS721010CLA322
PSU
700 Watt
Case
Haf 912
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK710
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Logitech M705
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TwoCables because we don't agree on this subject doesn't mean either one of us is right or wrong. It means we disagree on this subject. That is allowed. I don't have a problem with that.
By reading your post I have no doubt that you have the knowledge to produce all kinds of graphs to prove your point. I don't have a problem with that either. If you are doing great on another Forum that is okay with me also.

I just have a different way of answering a basic question of what power supply do we/I/you recommend.

I give my suggestion and the reasons for them in a 2x2=4 method. That gives the person asking the question a choice on how to select a power supply. That is good.
If we don't agree oh well I will get over it but I will post my methods just like you will post your methods.

It's not a me and you thing. It's just two people answering the question using our own methods. Some will like your method and maybe some will like my method.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
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Das 4 Professional
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Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
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100 mbits
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LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Tell any real PSU expert that you recommend a quality-made 750W PSU to power a system that has just two 670s and an i7-970 at stock, and they will have a good laugh and then they will tell you how that is unnecessary overkill and a huge waste of money.

Like I said, a quality-made 550W PSU is plenty, and you can get a high-end modular PSU for $89.99 shipped from Newegg ($50 less than the overpriced HX750):

SeaSonic G Series SSR-550RM 550W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Newegg.com

This PSU can deliver 550W 24/7, even if its internal temperature reaches 50°C. A power draw of 450W would be a walk in the park for this PSU.
 

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Is a 750w quality power supply over kill? Yes it is and hurts absolutely nothing. It will do the job needed with ease. It will do the job and run cooler, quieter, and longer. Plus give room for the OP to add things to the computer later if desired without buying another power supply.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
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I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
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LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Tell any real PSU expert that you recommend a quality-made 750W PSU to power a system that has just two 670s and an i7-970 at stock, and they will have a good laugh and then they will tell you how that is unnecessary overkill and a huge waste of money.

Like I said, a quality-made 550W PSU is plenty, and you can get a high-end modular PSU for $89.99 shipped from Newegg ($50 less than the overpriced HX750):

SeaSonic G Series SSR-550RM 550W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Newegg.com

This PSU can deliver 550W 24/7, even if its internal temperature reaches 50°C. A power draw of 450W would be a walk in the park for this PSU.

Good then go purchase it. My Daughters PC is 5 years old and it came with a 550 Watt PSU .Good luck with overclocking that. I hope it works out for you. I would pay no heed to anyone that would laugh at me.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 10 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core i7 960 @3.20 GHz
Motherboard
MSI MS7522
Memory
24.0 GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
LG E2341 23 Inch
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
1TB Western Dgital 1002FAEX-00Y9A0
1TB Hitachi HDS721010CLA322
PSU
700 Watt
Case
Haf 912
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK710
Mouse
Logitech M705
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AIS 2015 .10.0.2225
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Is a 750w quality power supply over kill? Yes it is and hurts absolutely nothing. It will do the job needed with ease. It will do the job and run cooler, quieter, and longer. Plus give room for the OP to add things to the computer later if desired without buying another power supply.

You may not know this, but a PSU like the 550W SeaSonic G Series powering a system that will have a maximum power consumption (maximum, I said) will definitely run cool, quiet, and easily past its warranty. It'll probably easily approach 10 years. We're not talking about weak PSUs here.

So you see?


Tell any real PSU expert that you recommend a quality-made 750W PSU to power a system that has just two 670s and an i7-970 at stock, and they will have a good laugh and then they will tell you how that is unnecessary overkill and a huge waste of money.

Like I said, a quality-made 550W PSU is plenty, and you can get a high-end modular PSU for $89.99 shipped from Newegg ($50 less than the overpriced HX750):

SeaSonic G Series SSR-550RM 550W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply - Newegg.com

This PSU can deliver 550W 24/7, even if its internal temperature reaches 50°C. A power draw of 450W would be a walk in the park for this PSU.

Good then go purchase it. My Daughters PC is 5 years old and it came with a 550 Watt PSU .Good luck with overclocking that. I hope it works out for you. I would pay no heed to anyone that would laugh at me.

A 550W PSU that comes with a computer is usually garbage and should never be trusted - especially not for overclocking. Although again, I'm not talking about overclocking and I never was. Just because the site's name is Overclock.net and just because I recommended that Layback Bear go over there to ask about me, it doesn't mean I'm talking about overclocking.

Anyway, the kind of PSU that came with her computer likely has very cheap internal components and its +12V capacity is probably between 250 and 300W (because it's 5 years old, and therefore it has that old design where the +12V wasn't nearly as important as it is today). For a modern system, that would mean it's a crappy 350W PSU at best. It probably also has an extremely low efficiency of 70% or lower. I wouldn't even use a PSU like that in a simple office PC (a modern one).

The 550W SeaSonic G Series is a very high-end modern PSU that has a +12V capacity of 540W. All of its internals are very high quality which means you could overclock with complete confidence. This isn't the only high-end 550W PSU, but it's a high-end modular PSU at a great price of $89.99 shipped. That's why I'm mentioning it. I could just as easily mention the 550W non-modular Rosewill CAPSTONE Series. It's essentially the same type of quality, only the PSU that Rosewill used to create it is the Super Flower Golden Green which is another awesome unit. However, it's $90.98 after shipping and again, it's not modular.

So you see, just because you have two PSUs with the "550W" rating, it doesn't mean they are identical.
 

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It is still running great. Some people are just not worth the time to ague with. Have a nice day and enjoy yourself at that overclocking site. You obviously only think your opinion is right. One of these days you will smoke your PC and is it worth the savings of less than $50.00 to chance it? I don't think so but what do I know.:)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 10 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core i7 960 @3.20 GHz
Motherboard
MSI MS7522
Memory
24.0 GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
LG E2341 23 Inch
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
1TB Western Dgital 1002FAEX-00Y9A0
1TB Hitachi HDS721010CLA322
PSU
700 Watt
Case
Haf 912
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK710
Mouse
Logitech M705
Internet Speed
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AIS 2015 .10.0.2225
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MalwareBytes Anti-Rootkit utility
It is still running great. Some people are just not worth the time to ague with. Have a nice day and enjoy yourself at that overclocking site. You obviously only think your opinion is right. One of these days you will smoke your PC and is it worth the savings of less than $50.00 to chance it? I don't think so but what do I know.:)

I'm not posting opinions.

If you think a quality-made 550W power supply (such as the 550W SeaSonic G Series or the Rosewill CAPSTONE Series, or even the Corsair TX550M) would end up "smoking" a computer like this that only has two GTX 670s and an i7-970 at stock, then you really don't know PSUs at all.

The reason her computer is still running ok is due to not really stressing the PSU too much. Put that PSU in a modern system and it will go down in less than a year, especially with as old as it is now.

You have to know these things when the only computers you own are the ones you built yourself.

Edit: Also, stop making fun of Overclock.net. You're missing the whole point by doing that. Do you know why I mentioned it in the first place?
 

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That is what is posted in Forums--Opinions--Like it or not. I did not BTW make fun of Overclocking Forums. You right I have two degrees in Electronics and have worked for EDS, AT&T, Lucent and Avaya. I also worked a great deal with their power systems, the kind that take up a small room. I also was certified as a power technician. So do not put me down as you have no idea who you are dealing with. There are rules here, I suggest you follow them. I will not ever be responding to any of your posts./
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 10 Pro 64
CPU
Intel Core i7 960 @3.20 GHz
Motherboard
MSI MS7522
Memory
24.0 GB DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750Ti
Monitor(s) Displays
LG E2341 23 Inch
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
1TB Western Dgital 1002FAEX-00Y9A0
1TB Hitachi HDS721010CLA322
PSU
700 Watt
Case
Haf 912
Cooling
Fans
Keyboard
Logitech MK710
Mouse
Logitech M705
Internet Speed
Cable
Antivirus
AIS 2015 .10.0.2225
Browser
Firefox 49
Other Info
MalwareBytes Anti-Rootkit utility
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