Ivy Bridge IHS

N0b0dy

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Hello everyone,

yesterday i decided to replace the thermal paste of my i5-3570k. I removed the head spreader and removed the old thermal paste. I did it exactly like in the Video here Fixing Ivy Bridge CPU temps: IHS removal - YouTube. The thing is that my PC starts but then it shuts down and restarts all the time. I can't do anything :mad:
I also thought that my motherboard was broken because some of the pins were bent.
Can someone help me to find which thing is broken ?

Same problem http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/43044-bent-pins-causing-no-post-ud3r.html
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64
CPU
Intel Core I5-3570K
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Evga Geforce GTX 660
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2009m
Screen Resolution
1600x900
Hard Drives
2 Internal 500 GB
1 External 3TB
1 120GB SSD (OS)
PSU
750 Watt
Case
Thermaltake VM600M1W2Z Dokker Tower Case
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker Ultimate
Mouse
Roccat Kova+
Antivirus
Kaspersky Antivirus 2013
Browser
Mozilla Firefox
Well for an expensive i5 my friend that is something absolutely crazy to do it seems to me that whatever you reapplied inside that CPU is not working as it should be.

It's pretty obvious to me and I am no expert that the cores are overheating like crazy and you might have to repeat the process and hope it hasn't wrecked the chips.

If it were me I would do that and make sure the surfaces are absolutely and perfectly clean and prepared before reapplying the thermal - inside and out side.

I use the Arctic cleaning kit and then Arctis Silver 5 compound but I have never done the inside of a CPU to be honest.

Arctic Silver Incorporated - ArctiClean & Arctic Silver Incorporated - Céramique 2

though I have had some good results with the Noctua NT-H1 compound it is slightly thicker and harder to spread but good. http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=13&lng=en

Plus I do hope you haven't bent any of the pins in the socket:(
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
That was very interesting. I have no idea how one fixes bent pins on a motherboard. I do think that if some one had drastic temps between cores that would be a good thing to try if you are out of time for a RMA. I will try that some time when I don't mind messing up a $300.00 CPU that is working just fine.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
That was very interesting. I have no idea how one fixes bent pins on a motherboard. I do think that if some one had drastic temps between cores that would be a good thing to try if you are out of time for a RMA. I will try that some time when I don't mind messing up a $300.00 CPU that is working just fine.

I thought you were a proponent of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" ;) One fixes pins on a CPU socket the same way porcupines make love...very carefully.

All seriousness aside, I wouldn't suggest messing with delidding a CPU unless it was running insanely hot and was out of warranty. At that point, you have nothing to lose and everything to gain. I will admit, watching that guy working with that razor blade then watching the heat spreader squirming around while latching the chip down made me as nervous as a long tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs. I could just see himself cutting his fingers with the razor blade or bending pins while chasing that heat spreader around.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Basically what I have said and for what it is worth if the CPU was running that hot it should have been a RTM job.

Having said that it is possible to straighten the socket pins - on the proviso that they are not that bent using a piece of old credit card cut to the exact width (dimensions) of the socket recess and placing it between the pins and gently bringing them back into alignment by sliding it very carefully from one end of the row of pins to the other until the card is behind the complete row of pins and then begin the process of bending them straight again. You sometimes need a second piece of card to gently force the bent pins onto the first inserted piece of card.

However the pins as I mentioned should not be bent more then a few degrees out of perfect upright alignment say more than 10-15 degrees otherwise if they are really flattened the chance of successfully getting them all aligned again is slim and runs the risk of actually snapping them.

Before anyone poo pos this I have done this on a few occasions with both the 775 pinned CPUs and the LGA sockets. It just takes great care and more than that patience.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
As I stated I thought quite cleverly if a cpu is out of RMA and I don't mind messing with a $300.00 cpu I would try it if the temp were way out.
The video showed temps in the high 90c. He also stated he hit 100c.
If normal methods of proper cooling didn't work I would try it before buying another cpu.
This statement I guess says it all.
I will try that some time when I don't mind messing up a $300.00 CPU that is working just fine.
Well that time isn't going to come; I hope.
If I'm unlucky and that time did come and RMA wasn't a option I most certainly would try it. Nothing to loose. I don't think the compound was the problem. I think it was the black goop around the top plate being to thick holding the plate to high off the chip. He left the black goop off so the chip could settle in place. If the problem was the compound and goop not allowing the little metal plate to make good contact with the chip it should of been that way from the start. Which means overheating from the start (first use). Which means someone should of RMA the chip from the start.
I have 3 computers with zero cpu overheating so I don't do such things.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
I agree Layback and for what it is worth I wonder how long that temp problem had been going for?
I have eight machines to hand and like you have not had any temp problems with any CPU's I have installed.

At the very least if there were such a problem it just goes to show that even Intel are not infallible, and that one should not rely on the fact that is an expensive item that one automatically assumes that it is good.

Personally I think that you have hit the nail on the head saying that the compound both inside that enclosure and the adhesive holding the heat spreader were not in sufficient quantities or assembled correctly.

But I still wonder at the advisability of deconstruction of a device in that manner. Not only could it destroy the device but was certainly a very risky handling operation - one we see in the emergency room on too many occasions through sheer stupidity.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
RANT ALERT!

RMA is a noun, not a verb, and are the initials for Return Material Authorization. I worked 30 years in warehousing, including shipping and receiving. When we returned material it was called a return by us and industry. The period of time that a manufacturer would replace or repair a product that failed due to a defect was called the warranty. All RMA meant was the authorization from the manufacturer or vendor to return the material and consisted of either a document from the manufacturer or vendor and/or a number supplied by the manufacturer or vendor and would tell the receipient of the return why it was being returned. Never, ever did I hear RMA being used as a verb to define returning material nor did I hear it used to define a warranty except on computer related websites.

Rant over. You are being returned to your regularly scheduled thread.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
I think he knew, or should have known, the risks before the delidding. Some people decide to take that risk. Some have achieved excellent results by doing so. Others have ruined the CPU also. It's a gamble. However, I think the answer to his question is, you have to fix one of the issues before finding out which one it is. The behavior he described sounds more like the CPU pins. That is common with bent pins. Yes, you can straighten them yourself, but if the same problem occurs, you will not know if you straightened them correctly or if it is the CPU. My suggestion would be to call Gigabyte and see about repairing the bent pins. Yes, they will charge you for it, but it is the only way you will know, short of buying a new board or CPU.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
Thanks for the replies.
I already contacted Gigabyte and i'm waiting to get my RMA number. So back to the topic. How do i know if my Motherboard or my CPU is broken ? I've also seen several people having the same issue with the Gigabyte Z77-D3H. They're also stuck in a boot loop.
The reason why i did this was that my CPU was running about 95-100c. Do i have the chance to get a new CPU from Intel ? I'm still under warranty.

BTW i'm using the Arctic Silver 5 between the head spreader and the die.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64
CPU
Intel Core I5-3570K
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Evga Geforce GTX 660
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2009m
Screen Resolution
1600x900
Hard Drives
2 Internal 500 GB
1 External 3TB
1 120GB SSD (OS)
PSU
750 Watt
Case
Thermaltake VM600M1W2Z Dokker Tower Case
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker Ultimate
Mouse
Roccat Kova+
Antivirus
Kaspersky Antivirus 2013
Browser
Mozilla Firefox
You probably blew the warranty on the CPU when you delidded it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
If one returns a product for a free repair or replacement under warranty is their a proper acronym that should be used instead of RMA? One that the folks reading our post would understand without Googling. I would gladly use it.
---
I will try to be more precises. Hope this helps N0b0dy.
1. A overheating problem like NObODy has stated would of showed up when the cpu was first used if assembling of the cpu was the problem.
2. If there is a cpu overheating problem I would make sure all the normal procedures were take first. (check you bios for updates relating this problem)
2.a Checking temps with a few different programs.
2.b Replacing the cpu compound using Arctic Silvers methods. While that deep into you system check for damaged pins. Damaged pins will give false readings along with many other problems.
2.c Installing a high performance cpu cooler.
2.d Make sure the proper harness/cable routing is correct for proper air flow through the case.
2.e If it was a new case I was unfamiliar with I would make sure the amount and orentation of the fans were proper. If all this fails to solve the problem.
3. If your motherboard and or cpu are under warranty I would recommend using the warranty and wait for your RMA report. If the RMA report is not to your liking I would take the steps in the video. Of course you will have to be very careful with the sharp object you select to use.
4. Please read Step #1 again.
---
If all the above are done and you have no other options I would try it.
You have nothing to loose but a finger or two and some blood if proper safety methods aren't used.
P/S: Please read Step #1 and #4 again.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
What's wrong with just calling a return a return? It worked just fine for everyone most of my life. Btw, RMA is not an acronym. An acronym is the first letters of the words of a phrase used to to make a pronounceable word. Example, PITA is an acronym for Pain In The ***. RMA is unpronouncable unless one has a really limber lip.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
The reason why i did this was that my CPU was running about 95-100c. Do i have the chance to get a new CPU from Intel ? I'm still under warranty.
Little comfort...but before delidding (which I would never do) did you go through the normal procedure of reapplying thermal paste to a clean CPU/heat sink surface. If the unit was still hitting these temps (not overclocked) even with a stock CPU cooler it would have been a clear warranty claim.
Unfortunately I think you've voided your CPU warranty and need a new motherboard.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build
OS
Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
CPU
Intel i7 2600k
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe
Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 3000(GT2+)
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell Ultrasharp IPS panel U2311H, Samsung SyncMaster P2350
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB, Samsung SSD 840 120GB, Seagates 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS x2
PSU
Seasonic M12II 520W
Case
Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
Cooling
Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
Keyboard
Logitech MK520 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK520
Internet Speed
6-7 Mbps
Antivirus
Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
I did the normal procedure. My CPU was about 45-57c on idle. Not overclocked with stock cooling.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64
CPU
Intel Core I5-3570K
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Evga Geforce GTX 660
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2009m
Screen Resolution
1600x900
Hard Drives
2 Internal 500 GB
1 External 3TB
1 120GB SSD (OS)
PSU
750 Watt
Case
Thermaltake VM600M1W2Z Dokker Tower Case
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker Ultimate
Mouse
Roccat Kova+
Antivirus
Kaspersky Antivirus 2013
Browser
Mozilla Firefox
So what are the signs of a broken CPU or Motherboard ?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64
CPU
Intel Core I5-3570K
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Evga Geforce GTX 660
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2009m
Screen Resolution
1600x900
Hard Drives
2 Internal 500 GB
1 External 3TB
1 120GB SSD (OS)
PSU
750 Watt
Case
Thermaltake VM600M1W2Z Dokker Tower Case
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker Ultimate
Mouse
Roccat Kova+
Antivirus
Kaspersky Antivirus 2013
Browser
Mozilla Firefox
I did the normal procedure. My CPU was about 45-57c on idle. Not overclocked with stock cooling.
I built a system recently as a gift so I don't recall the exact temps. It was using an i5-3470 and idled well below those temps. But I had a well ventilated Antec case and I'm guessing the ambient temp was ~25C.
Your case has one exhaust fan I think. Adding one or two optional fans would have helped.
Then after meticulously reseating the cooler if I was getting a 50+c idle temp I'd probably try to return the CPU. But since you've "lifted the lid" I don't think you can expect to return the CPU.
I don't know what others think???
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build
OS
Windows 7x64 Home Premium SP1
CPU
Intel i7 2600k
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe
Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws (DDR3-1600) 2x4GB
Graphics Card(s)
Nvidia GeForce GTS 450; Intel HD Graphics 3000(GT2+)
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell Ultrasharp IPS panel U2311H, Samsung SyncMaster P2350
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro SSD 256GB, Samsung SSD 840 120GB, Seagates 1TB Barracuda ST31000528AS x2
PSU
Seasonic M12II 520W
Case
Lian Li Lancool PC-K60
Cooling
Case: 1x120mm, 3x140mm CPU: Hyper 212+
Keyboard
Logitech MK520 (wireless)
Mouse
Logitech MK520
Internet Speed
6-7 Mbps
Antivirus
Norton Security Premium, Malwarebytes on 2 (MSE on 3rd PC)
Browser
FireFox
Other Info
Audio: Logitech Z523 2.1
I've read a article about the Ivy Bridge chips. All chips have cheap thermal paste between the heat spreader and the die. Maybe when i glue the head spreader back on, Intel will replace the broken CPU ? (if the CPU is broken)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 x64
CPU
Intel Core I5-3570K
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-D3H
Memory
16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600 MHz
Graphics Card(s)
Evga Geforce GTX 660
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
HP 2009m
Screen Resolution
1600x900
Hard Drives
2 Internal 500 GB
1 External 3TB
1 120GB SSD (OS)
PSU
750 Watt
Case
Thermaltake VM600M1W2Z Dokker Tower Case
Keyboard
Razer Deathstalker Ultimate
Mouse
Roccat Kova+
Antivirus
Kaspersky Antivirus 2013
Browser
Mozilla Firefox
You are correct RMA is not a acronym and is very difficult to pronounce. That is why a proper acronym would be handy. RMA is hard to pronounce but very easy to type and most everybody know what is being meant when one uses it. Well that is enough English 101 for me.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
RMA is generally just said "R" "M" "A"........I don't know why this matters at all. If you have taken the top portion off the CPU, don't expect Intel to do anything about it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Built
OS
Windows 7 Professional 64bit SP1
CPU
Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.5GHz
Motherboard
Asus Sabertooth Z77
Memory
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4) @1866MHz CL 9-9-9-24 1T
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 750 Ti FTW
Sound Card
Onboard Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2309W
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
Samsung 830 128GB SSD - OS
(4) Seagate 5TB HDD
(1) Seagate 2TB HDD
PSU
Seasonic X750 80+ Gold Full Modular
Case
Antec Eleven Hundred Super Mid Tower
Cooling
Intel Liquid Cooler
Keyboard
Max Nighthawk X8 Mechanical keyboard
Mouse
Mionix Naos 7000
Internet Speed
50 Mbps Down / 10 Mbps Up
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/Malwarebytes Anti-Malware
Browser
Chrome/Firefox
Other Info
Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Asus RT-N66R Wireless Router
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