Solved Laptop screen blacks out randomly

Slammer

Destroyer of Tyranny
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New Mexico, USA!
A couple weeks ago my laptop screen started turning off randomly. It took me a while to figure out that the computer was still running, the screen just shut off. Closing and reopening the lid turns it back on, sometimes for the rest of the time my computer is on, sometimes just for a few seconds. There is apparently no way at all to trigger it, it just happens.

I hooked it up to an external monitor (and set it to duplicate the screen), and the external monitor doesn't shut off when the laptop screen does, so I know it's not a video card issue. I've also run full scans with Malwarebytes and MSE, so I'm sure it's not a virus/malware problem. Also, I was able to make the screen turn back on by changing how to use the dual monitor setup with the other monitor connected. (Changing from "duplicate desktop" to "extend desktop" and vice versa) Which means either my LCD screen or backlight or something is messed up, or else my computer randomly thinks the screen is closing for some reason (since it's just set to turn off the screen when the lid closes, not shut down or anything). And if it thought the screen was being closed, I'm pretty sure it would come back on as soon as I moved the screen a bit, and wouldn't have to completely close and reopen it to correct the issue. For these reasons, I'm fairly certain it's an LCD-related hardware issue, but I really don't know how to be sure.

So I have two questions:
1) can anyone help me confirm/correct my theory about what's going wrong (and tell me how to fix it?), and
2) as a short-term workaround, is there any way I can create a shortcut on my desktop that can be clicked to refresh the screen? Not like an f5 refresh, I mean to totally refresh the whole screen like what happens when changing screen resolutions. Because that seems to bring it back, and would be easier/faster than having to keep closing and opening the lid.

Also: I never get any errors related to this, and device manager doesn't show any problems with anything. I suppose Event Manager could have info about it, but I have no idea where to look in there.

Thanks!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
It can be faulty backlight or the inverter. I had the same problem with my laptop screen, it was on for like 3 or 4 minutes the it would turnoff but windows was still running. I hope you can resolve it soon:).
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Gateway M-2414U
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate 32bit/x86
CPU
AMD Athlon X2 Dual-Core QL60 1.9Ghz
Motherboard
SA8 W370X015
Memory
4GB DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
ATI Readon HD 3200 Graphics
Sound Card
Conexant High Defintion Smartaudio 221
Monitor(s) Displays
15.4-inch WXGA Ultrabright™ TFT Active Matrix
Screen Resolution
1280x800
Hard Drives
1 Sata 250GB
Case
Portable
Cooling
Normal laptop fan
Keyboard
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse
Touch Pad
Internet Speed
3 Mbps
There is apparently no way at all to trigger it, it just happens.

I hooked it up to an external monitor (and set it to duplicate the screen), and the external monitor doesn't shut off when the laptop screen does, so I know it's not a video card issue.

Did you disable the laptop screen with the external monitor connected to see if the blank screen is replicated?

(I suspect the external wont go blank however)

And do you always have an external monitor attached, or is that just being used for testing atm? ie You normally use the laptop screen only.


Also, I was able to make the screen turn back on by changing how to use the dual monitor setup with the other monitor connected. (Changing from "duplicate desktop" to "extend desktop" and vice versa)

Doing that is similar to triggering the closing/opening or on/off of the LCD.

For these reasons, I'm fairly certain it's an LCD-related hardware issue, but I really don't know how to be sure.

From what you've described already, it does indeed sound like a hardware issue relating to the screen. it could be something like a loose wire/cable or a faulty sensor (ie the one that detects the opening/closing of the lid).

The intermittent nature of the fault tends to back this up.

One temporary test/workaround could be to assign the 'do nothing' action to the Lid closing option in the power config to see if that makes a difference.



I've also run full scans with Malwarebytes and MSE, so I'm sure it's not a virus/malware problem.

Ditto. Doesn't sound like virus behaviour.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Systems by SmartEyeball
OS
8 Pro x64
CPU
i7 3770K 4.6GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77 WS
Memory
16GB G.Skill Trident X 2666mhz
Graphics Card(s)
x2 EVGA 780 Ti Superclocked SLI
Sound Card
SB X-FI Surround 5.1 PRO USB / ATH-AD900 Headphones
Monitor(s) Displays
x3 Dell U2410 / 58" Samsung
Screen Resolution
5760*1200/ 1920*1200
Hard Drives
2x Intel 520 240GB (RAID 0) * 2x WD Caviar Blacks 2TB (RAID 0) * 2TB WD Caviar Black * Sony Optirac DVD
PSU
Silverstone Strider Evolution 1200W
Case
Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Topre Realforce // Ducky Shine MX Black // Filco Ninja TKL
Mouse
Thermaltake Theron (Highly Recommended) + Razer Imperator
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE, FF, WaterFox
Other Info
GT Extreme V2 Sim Racing Cockpit + 40" LCD and K/B Mouse stand ▼
Fanatec CSR Elite Wheel + Clubsport V1 Pedals + CSR shifter/7G-H ▼Saitek X52 Pro ▼ TrackIR 5 Pro
Buttkicker v2 Seat Rumbler with Dedicated 5.1 and Sub Woofer attached to frame ▼
=
Bloody Big Grin
Thanks for all the input! I didn't actually disable the laptop screen while trying that, but I'm confident the external monitor would not go blank, like you theorized. I do not usually have an external monitor attached, just used that for testing purposes. Although right now I usually just open and close the lid 5-10 times when I start the computer and it's usually good for the rest of the day after that, or for at least a few hours.

The only way I can describe it is that it seems to get "strained" shortly after I open and close the lid (screen brightness flickers slightly for about a second) and if it can get past that a couple times, it'll work without a problem for hours on end. Like I said, jiggling the screen back and forth neither helps nor makes it worse, which makes me think it probably isn't a connection issue (based on my limited knowledge of how these things work)

I actually do have the lid-closing assigned to "do nothing," which just causes the screen to turn off when closed (probably to save power; I don't think I can change that behavior for that option)

If it gets to the point where it won't stay on for more than a couple of minutes at a time regardless of what I do, I may just hook up an external monitor until I get it fixed, although that will be a bit of a pain. Are you aware of any command-prompt way to simulate the closing+opening of the lid, or to refresh the screen resolution, or something that would cause it to refresh? Then I could just create a shortcut for it and assign it a keystroke for when this happens. If it's a connection issue, at least that should (in theory) keep it from getting worse, and be much easier and faster.

Thanks again for your extensive response, I appreciate it.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
Ok after a little more testing I've been able to determine that it's just my backlight that is shutting off on me. When I shine a bright light on the screen I can still see the pixels and whatnot, there's just no light coming out of from it. So now my question is: what needs to be replaced? Looking around online, I think I just need to replace the inverter board (which would be great because I can get one for under 10 bucks on eBay). But I don't know enough about screen technology to know if the whole LCD screen needs to be replaced (probably more like $60). Can anyone confirm whether or not replacing the inverter board would solve the problem of the backlight turning off? Or is there any way to be sure? Thanks!
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
Another question: I've determined that my Inspiron 1545 uses a CCFL-backlit LCD screen instead of an LED-backlit one (and therefore uses an inverter board I think needs replacing from my previous comment). If a new inverter board doesn't fix my problem, it it possible to just buy an LCD-backlit screen and plug it directly into my computer somewhere, bypassing the need for an inverter board at all? The LED ones are like $50-60 cheaper, and that would be a great backup plan if the inverter board turns out to not be the problem, and the whole screen needs replacing.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
Unfortunately Laptop hardware isn't my forte so I'm reluctant to say "yeah, grab this and that, it'll work" only to have you discover that it doesn't work and you've wasted your money on bad advice.


I'll see if I can find someone with more expertise in laptop hardware.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Systems by SmartEyeball
OS
8 Pro x64
CPU
i7 3770K 4.6GHz
Motherboard
ASUS P8Z77 WS
Memory
16GB G.Skill Trident X 2666mhz
Graphics Card(s)
x2 EVGA 780 Ti Superclocked SLI
Sound Card
SB X-FI Surround 5.1 PRO USB / ATH-AD900 Headphones
Monitor(s) Displays
x3 Dell U2410 / 58" Samsung
Screen Resolution
5760*1200/ 1920*1200
Hard Drives
2x Intel 520 240GB (RAID 0) * 2x WD Caviar Blacks 2TB (RAID 0) * 2TB WD Caviar Black * Sony Optirac DVD
PSU
Silverstone Strider Evolution 1200W
Case
Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition
Cooling
Noctua NH-D14
Keyboard
Topre Realforce // Ducky Shine MX Black // Filco Ninja TKL
Mouse
Thermaltake Theron (Highly Recommended) + Razer Imperator
Antivirus
MSE
Browser
IE, FF, WaterFox
Other Info
GT Extreme V2 Sim Racing Cockpit + 40" LCD and K/B Mouse stand ▼
Fanatec CSR Elite Wheel + Clubsport V1 Pedals + CSR shifter/7G-H ▼Saitek X52 Pro ▼ TrackIR 5 Pro
Buttkicker v2 Seat Rumbler with Dedicated 5.1 and Sub Woofer attached to frame ▼
=
Bloody Big Grin
I replaced a few laptops screen. The inverter going bad seems to be the problem(from what you descrive) and the only way to fix it is to replace it.
There is no need to replaced your LCD screen, unless it has dead pixel or is crack. However nothing is ever 100% certain.
Make sure to buy from a place with a good return policy.

I dont quite understand your last question...
Extra:
Correct backlight type for your new screen | LAPTOP SCREEN, LCD panels from $42.
This has information and pictures you will find useful.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Gateway / Slight Modifications
OS
Windows 8 64 bit PRO
CPU
AMD Phenom X4 9100e
Motherboard
Gateway RS780
Memory
2GB X2 DDR2
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire HD 6850
Sound Card
Integrated
Monitor(s) Displays
Gateway 19" + Dell 19"
Screen Resolution
1440X900 sometimes 2880 by 900
Hard Drives
WD 80GB
WD 640GB
WD 1,000GB
PSU
Antec BP 550watts
Case
Antec 300
Cooling
Stock Cooling
Keyboard
Saitek Eclipse II
Mouse
Gigabyte GM-M6800
Internet Speed
D: 30Mbps U:4Mbps
Antivirus
Avast version 8
Browser
Internet Explorer ver 10 64 bit
Other Info
This is my work computer.
I have another laptop running Windows 7 64 bit.
Another PC running Windows 8 64 bit pro.
Total of 3
Thanks chris. That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I've ordered a new inverter board on eBay for about 7 bucks, so even if someone on eBay finally decides to rip me off and sends me a crapped out one, I can easily afford to just buy a different one.

My worry was basically that it might be a problem with the actual cathode ray tube inside the screen, and thought I would have to replace the whole screen if that was the part that was bad. But after a little more research (and some thinking) I figured that if the bulb was the problem part, it wouldn't be coming on at all (assuming it works in roughly the same way as normal bulbs). Hopefully this new inverter board will fix all my problems!

As for my unclear question: I read that LED-backlit and CCFL-backlit screens are NOT interchangeable. But the LED-backlit kind are much cheaper, and mine uses CCFL ones. I was basically just asking if it anyone knew of a way to hook up an LED-backlit screen into a laptop that had been using a CCFL screen. Which I've come to realize is a bit of a ridiculous question since that would probably vary from model to model. But I don't think it'll matter anymore since the new inverter board should fix my problem.

And if for some reason the CCFL bulb IS the problem, and the inverter board is working fine, I found a site that gave instructions on how to replace the bulb instead of buying a new screen. Meaning a new screen shouldn't be any concern any more.

And thanks for that website, that's actually where I went to figure most of this out :)

Thanks again for everyone's input, the new inverter should be here by the end of the week, and I'll post an update when I have it installed.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
Ok just got the new inverter board in today, and it didn't help. Still getting blackout issues. Although I did discover that the plug in my motherboard I thought could be used for an LED screen is actually for a built-in webcam, so I definitely have to stick with older, more expensive CCFL equipment.

I guess my next best move is to buy a replacement CCFL lamp and replace the one in my screen? Or are there other, less invasive things I can try?
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
I am having the same issue. Did the new bulb solve the problem?
 

My Computer

OS
Vista 32bit
Sorry for the long delay. I did buy a new backlight bulb for it off eBay, and had a heck of a time installing it. I don't recommend anyone go that route unless they're REALLY confident in their repair abilities and have a lot of time. It took me about 8 hours, start to finish. Maybe other laptop brands will be easier, but mine was a nightmare. Anyway, here's one of the tutorials I followed to install it: Laptop Repair Help » How to replace laptop backlight lamp (CCFL)

It now works great. Thanks for everyone's input.

EDIT- Sorry to everyone who helped me, it looks like it's been too long since you all posted for me to rep you. I didn't know there was any kind of time limit to repping people. So I guess written thanks is the best thing I can offer at this point. :)
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell Inspiron 1545
OS
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit SP1
CPU
Intel Mobile Core 2 Duo T6400 @ 2.00GHz, Penryn 45nm
Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0G848F (Microprocessor)
Memory
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 399MHz (6-6-6-18)
Graphics Card(s)
Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (Integrated)
Sound Card
IDT High Definition Audio CODEC
Monitor(s) Displays
Generic PnP Monitor (DPMS) (1366x768@60Hz)
Screen Resolution
1366x768 (16:9)
Hard Drives
2TB External, with ~1TB partition booting OS
PSU
Laptop
Case
Laptop
Cooling
Laptop vent
Keyboard
Laptop
Mouse
Touchpad, and Logitech wireless USB mouse.
Internet Speed
~150 kb/s
Other Info
I'm running Windows COMPLETELY off a 2TB portable hard drive (since my 300GB internal drive just isn't big enough). It works exactly the same as it would normally, only it has to be constantly connected to my USB port. Obviously. I'll show you how to do it, if you ask! It's pretty cool.

Specs via Speccy
Hey, don't sweat it. It's good to hear that you got it sorted. Plus it helps others who come to the forum and look up your thread trying to fix the same problem.
Congrats!:party:
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
OMG this happens to me all the time

I am running on an Asus laptop and Windows 8.1. I know that this is a windows seven forum but this exactly matches my problem. Its so annoying.:cry: Please help me!!

Edit: Oh thanks. I will take it back to the shop because its brand new.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Asus
OS
8.1
Good plan. No point in doing your own warranty work!
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
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