PC fell down + one PSU question

[Rain08]

So just like 15 minutes ago, my PC fell down. When I say fell, I mean the system unit struck the floor at a height of like meter (guesstimating the height of the table). It fell down because I was relocating my desk, the system unit is placed on another table (If you're asking why, I'm on a flood prone area so I can't place my unit on the floor; the table was the only thing to put it on to.) while the other things are on the desk. So I moved the desk closer to the unit then rotated it at 90° clockwise and pulled the desk to the right. I was struggling to pull the desk because one of the wheels is jammed. So I was looking at that jammed wheel when I was pulling it and then I heard like a bang. Checking the other side, I saw the unit is on the floor. I knew that my PC was fine because I was playing a song and it was still playing after it fell. The first thing that came in my mind is "Is the HDD fine?" and my answer is yes; and according to the spec sheets, my drive can survive a 30G~65G fall when it's working and I checked it with HD Tune with no problems. Plus the position of the HDD is upright so it's parallel to the direction of the fall (Does this help? Just for future reference).

Now the question is there any part that may be damaged? For now, all is fine.

When my PC fell down, I was actually surprised that everything survived considering that most of the parts are like 3.5 years old (GPU is almost 2 while HDD is 10 months). It gave me a mini-heart attack when it happened. Now I'm the one to blame for it because I overlooked the cable lengths and I was negligent for not looking at the unit.

The GT 610 recommends a 300W PSU however I only have 250W; there are some posts that say if your PC is under-powered, your hardware can fail. The GPU is here for almost 2 years (bought it on Christmas, 2012) on my PC yet I don't have any problems. Is there a risk for me (I'll be upgrading this PC soon)? The other question is: Am I not getting the most of my PC since it is under-powered?


http://www.wdc.com/wdproducts/library/SpecSheet/ENG/2879-771436.pdf

 

[Boozad]

Personally I'd recommend opening the unit up and check that everything looks fine (no visible damage), all connections are properly seated and all cables and connections are firmly made.

 

[Rain08]

Personally I'd recommend opening the unit up and check that everything looks fine (no visible damage), all connections are properly seated and all cables and connections are firmly made.

Checked it thoroughly, no damage at all. The only cable that was loose is the monitor's power brick, apart from that, everything works.

 

[Boozad]

Just monitor your temperatures for a few days. I'd be tempted to run MemTest86+ too.

 

[Rain08]

Just monitor your temperatures for a few days. I'd be tempted to run MemTest86+ too.

Will do those. Currently, temps for the following are (max value): MoBo = 31°C, CPU #0 = 56°C, CPU #1 = 49°C, HDD = 36°C and GPU = 47°C. Those are the temps when I'm just browsing the web (which is what I'm doing now).

 

[Layback Bear]

Things that might get jarred loose would be the Ram and Video card.

 

[OvenMaster]

Just monitor your temperatures for a few days. I'd be tempted to run MemTest86+ too.

Will do those. Currently, temps for the following are (max value): MoBo = 31°C, CPU #0 = 56°C, CPU #1 = 49°C, HDD = 36°C and GPU = 47°C. Those are the temps when I'm just browsing the web (which is what I'm doing now).

Those CPU temps are too high for just web browsing.
I'd open up the PC again and double-check your CPU heatsink for proper placement and the CPU fan to make sure that it's actually spinning. If it were my computer, I'd probably remove the heatsink, clean off the old thermal paste from the sink and CPU and replace it with new product.

 

[Digerati]

Now the question is there any part that may be damaged? For now, all is fine.

Things that might get jarred loose would be the Ram and Video card.

I am actually more concerned with the cured bond of the TIM (thermal interface materials) between the CPU and its heatsink since that is a large, heavy chunk of metal hanging off the motherboard. A hard "bounce" can not only break the cured bond (allowing unwanted and insulating air between the mating surfaces) but can put undue stress on the motherboard near the socket and heatsink mounts, and where the motherboard mounts to the case. This is why heatsinks - especially big aftermarket heatsinks - really should be removed during transport.

So if me, I would unplug from the wall, touch bare metal of the case interior to discharge any static in my body, then carefully remove the heatsink, clean the mating surfaces of old TIM (I use 93% isopropyl alcohol), then properly apply a fresh new layer of TIM. And remember, the purpose of TIM is to ensure ONLY and all the microscopic pits and valleys in the CPU die and heatsink mating surfaces are void of heat trapping air, maximizing surface to surface contact. Any excess is too much and gets in the way, and can actually be counterproductive to the heat transfer process. So start with a very small amount, about the size of a grain of rice, and spread it as thinly as possible across the CPU die.

Those CPU temps are too high for just web browsing.

In spite of what I just said about the heat sink and TIM, I disagree those temps are too high. 56°C is warm, but not hot - ESPECIALLY considering the ambient temperatures in Manila, Philippines, and the fact we don't know what the temps were before the drop.

 

[Layback Bear]

I would suggest when posting computer temps also post ambient temps.
As Itaregid pointed out the ambient temps in the Philippines is hot to hotter.

 

[Rain08]

Did the memory test and found no problems; also, no parts were loose. Here's the temps, did browse the web, watched videos in YT and a did a quick scan in MSE. The space for the system unit is very large and not obstructed.

Edit: I was also able to play games in the past few days (BF2R, DEFCON, CoD: BO2) and found no problems. The temps on those days (AFAIK) are: CPU's reaching 65°C, GPU at around 67°C, HDD at 36°C and MoBo at 30°C.

Edit 2: Also, I've always noticed that TMPIN2 has a buggy temp readings. It's been like that for the past 2 years.

 

[Digerati]

Your HWMonitor temps are fine. That 65°C makes me a bit uncomfortable, but as seen here, is still safely within limits. If your maximum temps don't sit at 65°C longer than a few seconds at a time and then quickly drop below 60°C, then I would not be too worried. But if your temps frequently rise above 60°C and sit there, then you need to look at your case cooling. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. So make sure the interior, vents, fans, and heatsinks are cleaned of heat-trapping dust, and consider adding another case fan, or replacing current case fans with larger capacity fans.

GPU temps typically run considerably higher than CPU temps. No worries there.

Edit 2: Also, I've always noticed that TMPIN2 has a buggy temp readings. It's been like that for the past 2 years.

Those little temperature sensors are very low tech devices and probably cost a couple pennies at most - for 10 of them! So they probably are not very accurate regardless. The best you can hope is they are consistently wrong by the same amount. Also, and sadly, many HW monitoring programs have a hard time correctly matching sensor to label, or they fail to see there is no sensor (they are not mandatory) for that label and toss up some off-the-charts temps. You can verify your temps with Speccy (from the makers of CCleaner), which is good at matching sensors to labels, but it does not have a system tray applet. I use I use and recommend CoreTemp for that.

 

[Rain08]

Your HWMonitor temps are fine. That 65°C makes me a bit uncomfortable, but as seen here, is still safely within limits. If your maximum temps don't sit at 65°C longer than a few seconds at a time and then quickly drop below 60°C, then I would not be too worried. But if your temps frequently rise above 60°C and sit there, then you need to look at your case cooling. Remember, it is the case's responsibility to provide an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case. So make sure the interior, vents, fans, and heatsinks are cleaned of heat-trapping dust, and consider adding another case fan, or replacing current case fans with larger capacity fans.

GPU temps typically run considerably higher than CPU temps. No worries there.

Edit 2: Also, I've always noticed that TMPIN2 has a buggy temp readings. It's been like that for the past 2 years.

Those little temperature sensors are very low tech devices and probably cost a couple pennies at most - for 10 of them! So they probably are not very accurate regardless. The best you can hope is they are consistently wrong by the same amount. Also, and sadly, many HW monitoring programs have a hard time correctly matching sensor to label, or they fail to see there is no sensor (they are not mandatory) for that label and toss up some off-the-charts temps. You can verify your temps with Speccy (from the makers of CCleaner), which is good at matching sensors to labels, but it does not have a system tray applet. I use I use and recommend CoreTemp for that.

Here are the temps after playing CS:S for an hour and earlier, I did some browsing and YouTubing and before doing these, I have played BF2 (with 63 bots).

The temps when browsing is usually at 37°C~58°C (depends on what I'm doing).

Edit: The PC is running continuously since earlier's post.

Edit 2: Time to make some tea with that MoBo temperature.

 

[Digerati]

Yeah, obviously the motherboard sensor (or Speccy) are not seeing eye-to-eye.

Your 63°C are a bit high. If me, I would probably still replace the TIM on the CPU. That is NOT something I normally or lightly recommend because TIM does not normally need replacing as it does not wear-out, go bad, or other wise become less effective - IF left undisturbed. It can, and does easily last 10, 15 years or longer. But since your computer bounced off the floor, the cured bond might have been cracked, letting some insulating air in between the mating surfaces.

If you currently are running with the OEM TIM pad, using a quality after-market TIM may even give you a few degrees improvement.