PC turns off suddenly when booting

Rainess

New member
Local time
4:44 PM
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15
Sometimes when I power-up my pc everything goes on (fans, HDDs, MOBO..) 2-3 sec later it shuts (won't even get to the bios boot screen) then few seconds later it will turn itself on and stay on (log into windows..)

As I stated before it happens sometimes, any suggestion?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500
Motherboard
Intel Burrage DP67BG B3
Memory
2x 4GB Kingston DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
SLI 1GB EVGA GTX460 EE
Sound Card
Built In
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Samsung SyncMaster PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920X1080p
Hard Drives
2x Western Digital CG 750GB 64MB
PSU
XFX Pro 750W Core Edition
Case
Fanqua inWin
Cooling
220 and 120mm Inwin fans, 2*TT 120mm and TT Frio.
Internet Speed
Heck it's embarrassing
The first thing I think of with that symptom is your power supply.

Now normally I would suggest that your power supply could be failing, and that might still be the case, but when I saw that you have only a 450W supply and the components you are trying to run off of it that raises the possibility that the power supply might be just too small for your system. And the older that supply is the more of an issue the size becomes.

Go here: eXtreme Power Supply Calculator and fill out the form to calculate the size your supply should be for your system. The most important box to fill out accurately is the "Capacitor Aging" at the end. That is where the age factor gets worked in.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
TVeblen may very well be correct. The minimum PSU recommended by EVGA for your card is 450W with 22A which is what you have. Time will lower that somewhat as PSU's will degrade with age. It could also be a bios setting. Try resetting bios to optimized defaults and see if that helps you problem.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
IMHO never run a minimum power supply. You will work them to hard which creates a lot of heat. For that system I would recommend at least 650w quality power supply. Antec and Corsair come to mind.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
The calculator noted 363W as a minimum and 413W Recommended (Cap Age 10%) even though my PSU is 2 weeks old

oh and essenbe, a BIOS Setting? mmm I'll try that
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500
Motherboard
Intel Burrage DP67BG B3
Memory
2x 4GB Kingston DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
SLI 1GB EVGA GTX460 EE
Sound Card
Built In
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Samsung SyncMaster PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920X1080p
Hard Drives
2x Western Digital CG 750GB 64MB
PSU
XFX Pro 750W Core Edition
Case
Fanqua inWin
Cooling
220 and 120mm Inwin fans, 2*TT 120mm and TT Frio.
Internet Speed
Heck it's embarrassing
The calculator noted 363W as a minimum and 413W Recommended (Cap Age 10%) even though my PSU is 2 weeks old

oh and essenbe, a BIOS Setting? mmm I'll try that

That puts your PSU running at almost 100% all the time. Most PSU's are not capable of doing that. What I try to do is run my PSU at 60-70%. That makes sure I have plenty of power and keeps my PSU cool and will make it last longer. I always recommend Corsair, Antec and Seasonic PSU's.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
I have found that those calculators just get you in the ball park. Yes Seasonic is another quality power supply.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
So i should upgrade my PSU then, you guys don't recommend TT as far I see?
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500
Motherboard
Intel Burrage DP67BG B3
Memory
2x 4GB Kingston DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
SLI 1GB EVGA GTX460 EE
Sound Card
Built In
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Samsung SyncMaster PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920X1080p
Hard Drives
2x Western Digital CG 750GB 64MB
PSU
XFX Pro 750W Core Edition
Case
Fanqua inWin
Cooling
220 and 120mm Inwin fans, 2*TT 120mm and TT Frio.
Internet Speed
Heck it's embarrassing
Since your power supply is brand new, and rated above the recommended wattage, then that means that a too-small supply may not be the immediate cause of your problem.

Keep in mind that does not change anything the other posters are saying. I agree with them completely - a borderline PS is not a good idea. I'm just saying that, for now, that may be a separate issue.

The issue for now may be that the power supply is defective - meaning it is intermittently not putting out all of it's rated power.
But it could be other things too.

A lot happens when you push the button on your computer and before you see that first BIOS screen. Your issue could be due to anything that happens during that 2 seconds of time that could interrupt the process to begin the BIOS startup.

When you press that power button it simply closes a circuit between the case button and the PWR SW header on the motherboard (2 wires - they simply contact together).
So the first point of error is that switch. But your switch seems to work fine because you get to step 2:

When that PWR SW circuit is closed it basically sends a signal along a "logic circuit" on the motherboard to the Power Supply telling it to switch from a low-power "standby" mode to the "full power mode".
So the second point of error is that logic circuit. Any defect and the power supply will not switch on.

When the power supply is switched on that activates the BIOS which then performs a POST routine (Power On Self Test). The routine checks the CPU, the RAM, and the System Bus, (and more) for connectivity and compares what it finds against it's stored "memory" of what should be there. If all checks out you will normally get a single BEEP from the BIOS - the POST Beep. Unfortunately, many modern systems have eliminated the POST Beep - yours may be one of them.
That's the third point of error. If the POST does not complete the boot process will stop. This indicates that there is either a major component failure (including a lack of, or disruption of, power) or there is a discrepancy between what the BIOS finds and what it "remembers" should be there.
This is why Essenbe recommends resetting or restoring the BIOS defaults. That process will clear up (refresh) any discrepancies, if this is the case.

Once the POST is complete the BIOS begins the remainder of the BOOT process: discovering installed components, drives, and devices of the system.

So it is very important for you to determine where in the start up process your system fails. And being an intermittent problem makes that more difficult.

If the system shuts down before you get that POST Beep, or before anything shows up on the monitor, then that indicates you have a problem in the power category. Could be your case switch, could be the connections on the motherboard (double check 'em!), could be the power supply itself.

To test the Power Switch on your case is pretty easy. Just pull the connector from the power switch on the motherboard (the PWR-SW header) and then use a small flat blade screwdriver to touch the 2 pins together momentarily. This should turn your system on. If the system displays the same problem when you switch it on this way then that would eliminate the case switch as a cause.

Let us know what you find.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
PSU's are a matter of personal preference. But, I believe that looking at the models with the best user feedback is a wise way of choosing one. Your psu may not be causing your problem but is suspect and is running at close to it's capabilities. At this point you have no room for any upgrades and your usage will shorten the life of the PSU. So, yes I would recommend a higher wattage PSU. You will be doing yourself a favor and allow you room to upgrade in the future. The brands I mentioned are the ones that have the fewest problems and better quality (my opinion). Read some of the viewer feedback on PSU's at Newegg, even if you don't buy there. And remember, the PSU is not a component to save money with, it is a very important part of your computer. If the PSU goes out, it can take many of the other components with it. The better quality ones are less likely to do that. Just my opinion.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    ALWAYS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Ryzen 9 5900X
    Motherboard
    Asus X570 Crosshair Viii Hero
    Memory
    32GB G Skill DDR4-3600
    Graphics Card(s)
    EVGA RTX 3080 FTW 3 Ultra
    Sound Card
    On Board/Sennheiser PC37X Headset
    Monitor(s) Displays
    3 X Asus 27"
    Screen Resolution
    2560x1440
    Hard Drives
    2 X 1 TB NVME drives
    PSU
    EVGA 850
    Case
    Phanteks Eclipse P400A
    Cooling
    EVGA 280 AIO
    Keyboard
    Logitech G510s/ Logitech G13
    Mouse
    Logitech G502
    Internet Speed
    24/1
    Antivirus
    ESET/MBAM Pro/SAS Pro
    Browser
    Chrome/ Firefox/ Edge
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Dell 16 Plus
    OS
    Windows 11 Pro
    CPU
    Intel Ultra 9 288V
    Memory
    32 GB LPDDR5X 8533
    Monitor(s) Displays
    16" Mini-LED HDR600 Touch 90 Hz
    Screen Resolution
    2560X1600
    Hard Drives
    1 TB NVME
@TVeblen

That was really informative friend,
There's already a power switch on my mobo, and powering with it makes no difference, therefore the problem isn't there.
No POST beep here, however it shuts before anything appears on my screen.
Just note that I already updated my BIOS but nothing changed.

Well, logically it seems it's a PSU/Power Problem, anyway I'm gonna try later to boot without the GTX just to be sure.

@essenbe

I totally agree, I thought TT were Reliable and i needn't more than 450W.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500
Motherboard
Intel Burrage DP67BG B3
Memory
2x 4GB Kingston DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
SLI 1GB EVGA GTX460 EE
Sound Card
Built In
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Samsung SyncMaster PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920X1080p
Hard Drives
2x Western Digital CG 750GB 64MB
PSU
XFX Pro 750W Core Edition
Case
Fanqua inWin
Cooling
220 and 120mm Inwin fans, 2*TT 120mm and TT Frio.
Internet Speed
Heck it's embarrassing
Before you spend money and tear into your rig, this has come up before - with some motherboards this is NORMAL (including mine).

One key you posted is "sometimes"...do you have a power strip on the PC? Do you sometimes turn off the power on the power supply?

I'll bet the Start-Stop-Restart happens when the power has been turned OFF, as in power strip switch turned off - then you turn power on and then turn computer on...it does the start-off-restart. BUT when you turn off the PC when exiting Windows but leave power to the PC turned ON, it fires right up.

Try it and see if that happens. If so, it is normal.

Regards,
GEWB
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
(7 different computers booting up to 10 systems)
OS
Linux Mint / XP / Win7 Home, Pro, Ultimate / Win8.1 / Win10
Other Info
Four desktops, two laptops, one notebook and one tablet
That reminds me...

You should also check your CMOS battery. When they get weak or go dead all kinds of strange boot problems can happen.

You can test with a multimeter for a solid 3.3v, or just try a replacement. They are relatively cheap as compared to a power supply.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home Built - Jan 2013
OS
Windows 7 64 Bit Home Premium SP1
CPU
i7-3820
Motherboard
Asus P9X79-PRO - Bios 4608
Memory
GSkill F3-14900CL9Q - 16GB
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GeForce GTX660 - Driver 352.86
Sound Card
On board Realtek ALC898
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S271HL
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
#1- Samsung 840 Pro Series
#2- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
#3- Western Digital WD1002FAEX Sata3 Black
PSU
Corsair CMPSU-850TX-V2 - 850 watt (by Seasonic)
Case
Corsair Obsidian 550D
Cooling
Standard 3 120mm case fans, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Keyboard
MS KC-0405
Mouse
Intellimouse 5-button
Internet Speed
56 Mbits/Sec (on a good day)
Antivirus
Avast & Malwarebytes
Browser
Firefox
Other Info
Asus DVD - DRW-24B1ST 24X
I would peruse the hardwaresecrets site. Their reviews of several Thermaltake power supplies conclude they stick a higher rating on the supply than it can deliver. For example:

Thermaltake TR2 RX 750 W Power Supply Review | Hardware Secrets

This may not be true for your specific model - they haven't reviewed it, but it seems to be for several of the TT supplies they have reviewed.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home built (GeneO industries)/Model 4
OS
Windows 10 Pro. EFI boot partition, full EFI boot
CPU
i7 4770k 4.4GHz (44-44-43-43 turbo) @ 1.248V
Motherboard
ASUS Maximus VI Hero
Memory
16GB (8GBx2) @2200 MHz G.skill Sniper 10-11-10-30-1, 1.6V
Graphics Card(s)
MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G
Sound Card
Onboard SupremeFX Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
NEC Spectraview 2490WUXi-SV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1200
Hard Drives
Samsung 850 Pro 256GB (OS), Samsung 2x 128GB 840 Pro SSD in RAID0, 3x WD Blue 6Gb/s 1TB RAID0, WD 2TB Black external USB 3.0, 2TB WD20EARS Green external USB 3.0, 2x 500GB Seagate and 1 750 GB external USB, 1x 350GB external USB3
PSU
Seasonic X-850 (2012 KM3 model)
Case
Fractal Design Define R4
Cooling
NH-D14, NF-F12, NF-A15; NF-P14, NF-P12,NF-A14, S12A PWM
Keyboard
Cooler Master Storm Quickfire Rapid - Brown
Mouse
Logitech G602
Internet Speed
126.4 Mb/s down, 24.3 Mb/s up
Other Info
USB 3.0 x8 , SATA III x8, eSATA, USB 2.0 x6. Samsung DVD R/W drive.

WEI: CPU 7.8, Memory 7.9, Graphics 7.9, Disk 7.9
The OP may also check all cables and connections inside. SATA cables getting loose over a period of time can cause boot problems.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32 bit
essenbe good post. That said, every thing in the computer starts with a great power supply. Trying to trouble shoot a computer with a maybe power supply is a waste of time......
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Cmos battery is another great idea. Thanks TVeblen.Test na they are cheep just put one in.I change mine once a year. Their may be more problems; but lets get the basics before going farther is my thoughts.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Here's some updates;
Today, booted 4 times without the GTX and everything went okay.
even though i replugged the GTX and PC booted normally, well the problem is not continuous as I stated so that didn't help.

@GEWB
Actually, I tried that yesterday but no luck.


@TVeblen
My Mobo is still new anyway I'll try that later.


Many thanks everyone.
 

My Computer

OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
Intel Core i5-2500
Motherboard
Intel Burrage DP67BG B3
Memory
2x 4GB Kingston DDR3 1333MHz
Graphics Card(s)
SLI 1GB EVGA GTX460 EE
Sound Card
Built In
Monitor(s) Displays
23" Samsung SyncMaster PX2370
Screen Resolution
1920X1080p
Hard Drives
2x Western Digital CG 750GB 64MB
PSU
XFX Pro 750W Core Edition
Case
Fanqua inWin
Cooling
220 and 120mm Inwin fans, 2*TT 120mm and TT Frio.
Internet Speed
Heck it's embarrassing
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