Solved Power Supply Question

bigmck

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This afternoon I started hearing a noise from a fan. Not real loud but it was just louder than usual. I took the cover off and it is the Power Supply fan that is making the noise. Everything still works OK, but just curious if this has happened to any of you and if you think this might be the Power Supply on the way out. Thanks,
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Mine started ding that after a few months. I decided to get an RMA on it but never bothered and it's still running fine.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
Usually fan noises are caused by a dry bearing & very often get worse, over time. I had a very noisy fan in a GPU which was very hard to find as the fan was under the unit & hard to see. Eventually it became so irritating I did a major computer overhaul as is was silly just to replace the GPU when the rest was generally aged anyway.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Self built using existing case
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit sp1
CPU
Intel i5 3570 3.4Ghz Ivy Bridge SKT 1155 quad core
Motherboard
Gigabyte Z77-HD3 SKT 1155 2xSata 3, 4x USB 3.0
Memory
G-Skill Rip Jaws 16Gb (8x2) DDR3 -1600 PC3 12800 CL 10 red
Graphics Card(s)
Gigabyte NVIDIA GT610 1Gb DDR3 810/1200 PCI-E 2.0 Silent
Sound Card
NVIDIA High Definition & Realtech High Definition Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
2 x Philips 226V4L 16:9 aspect ratio
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080 HD
Hard Drives
Samsung 840 Pro 256gb SSD, SATA 3.
Hitachi Touro Portable 1tb, USB 3.0 HDD used for image b/ups.
PSU
Corsair VS450
Case
Codeng
Cooling
PSU fan & CPU fan
Keyboard
Logitech
Mouse
Logitech Wireless trackball M570
Internet Speed
Wireless 3G. 3mg down & 550kb up.
Antivirus
Bitdefender Internet Security 2020
Browser
Opera (Current Version) & Firefox
Other Info
MS Office 2013 Pro. Davis weather station software. MGE Nova 600 avr UPS.
I had this problem a while back with power supply which I've since replaced. The fan gave out after a couple of months and since it was out of warranty, I just replaced the entire PSU.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Ultimate x64 Service Pack 1
CPU
AMD Athlon II x4 Propus 2.9 GHz
Motherboard
ASRock N68C-GS FX
Memory
2 x 4GB Corsair XMS 3 DDR3 -1600 CL9
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD 5850 1GB GDDR5
Sound Card
On-board 6-Channel HD Audio
Monitor(s) Displays
18' LG Flatron E1942TC-BN on DVI, 18' Chimei 95ND on HDMI
Screen Resolution
1366 x 768 x 2
Hard Drives
1 x 500 GB Seagate
1 x 1 TB Western Digital Caviar Green
1 x 1 TB Hitachi Touro Mobile USB 3
PSU
Seasonic S12II 520W
Case
Generic with Cable Management
Cooling
Deep Cool Gammaxx 200
Keyboard
Dragonwar Desert Eagle
Mouse
Logitech B85
Internet Speed
5Mb/s DL, 0.9Mb/s UL
Antivirus
ESET Nod32
Browser
Google Chrome 64 Bit
Other Info
LG G4 H818P - Rooted with Xposed Framework
Have come across this on a few occasions and if one knows what one is doing the fan can be relubed or replaced - a bit awkward if it is soldered in but doable.

BUT you have to know exactly what you are doing with PSU's as they are vey dangerous devices to be working on or with.

Personally my advice is to replace the unit or take it to a qualified repairer for a fix.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Consider the age of your power supply and the brand name.
If it is very old and of questionable brand I would just replace it with something like a Corsair or Seasonic.
Your specs do not indicate what brand the power supply is.
I do not recommend going inside a power supply. They can KILL you even when unplugged. NO JOKE.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Thanks guys for the help on this. I would not go inside a PSU. The PSU is four or five years old and is just a no name brand so I guess a new one is in order. I would not attempt to install it myself as I am sure I would not get everything plugged into the MB correctly on the new one. The worst thing about this is I will go through "Withdrawal Pains" for the few days it is not sitting on my desk. :D
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
The PSU is four or five years old and is just a no name brand so I guess a new one is in order.

Indeed. I ignored mine as it was a six month old Corsair Gold rated PSU and it only happened under heavy load. Sorry for my original post as it was misinformation in hindsight.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
The PSU is four or five years old and is just a no name brand so I guess a new one is in order.

Indeed. I ignored mine as it was a six month old Corsair Gold rated PSU and it only happened under heavy load. Sorry for my original post as it was misinformation in hindsight.

No, I understood that yours was new. No problem with your post. Thanks,
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
bigmck if you don't feel comfortable replacing the power supply by all means take it to a shop. Their is nothing wrong with doing that. Everybody on this forum doesn't build their own computers as I and many others do.
Let us know how everything comes out for you and what power supply is installed.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Hum you said the magic words no name brand so just replace the thing mate personally I like Corsairs they have such a good range now and the Seasonics just as good though I have never had one except for a little used one out of an old machine I use for testing fans etc.:)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
If you are feeling adventurous about changing the PSU (it isn't as hard as most think), one thing that helps for those that haven't done it before is to use something like twist-ties and labels of some kind. Simply put a twist-tie with a label on each connection as you remove it, and then after installing the new PSU, use the labels to reconnect everything.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Me
OS
Win 7 Ultimate x64
CPU
FX-8350 @ 4.6 GHz so far
Motherboard
Asus M5A97 EVO
Memory
ADATA XPG V1 Series Black 8GB DDR3 1600
Graphics Card(s)
Sapphire R9 270x Dual-X
Sound Card
Xonar DGX w/ Corsair Vengence 1300
Monitor(s) Displays
Acer S232HL Abid
Screen Resolution
1920x1080
Hard Drives
120 GB OCZ Vertex 3
500 GB Seagate 7200.12
PSU
Antec Earthwatts 650W Green
Case
Antec Three Hundred
Cooling
Cooler Master 212 EVO
Keyboard
Logitech G510
Mouse
Logitech G500s
Internet Speed
35000/3000
If you are feeling adventurous about changing the PSU (it isn't as hard as most think), one thing that helps for those that haven't done it before is to use something like twist-ties and labels of some kind. Simply put a twist-tie with a label on each connection as you remove it, and then after installing the new PSU, use the labels to reconnect everything.
Yep a real cheap solution is that el cheapo electricians tape - it can be simply left on for the future and written on too:)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Not all Corsair PSUs are good. Be sure to check the reviews before choosing one. Generally, the AX and HX series are good. I've read a lot of complaints about the RM series.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
Not all Corsair PSUs are good. Be sure to check the reviews before choosing one. Generally, the AX and HX series are good. I've read a lot of complaints about the RM series.
This is true and they are not all made by the same manufacturer which may explain why the differences and as you say the RM series seem to have a particularly bad feedback.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Own build (new) Desk1 / Asus ROG Win 7 / Desk2 1st build
OS
Desk1 7 Home Prem / Desk2 10 Pro / Main lap Asus ROG 10 Pro 2 laptop Toshiba 7 Pro Asus P2520 7 & 10
CPU
Desk1 i5 3750K / Laptop i7 GTX 860M / Desk2 i5 2500
Motherboard
Desk1 Asus P877-V / Desk2 Gigabyte H67 UD3H / Laptop ?
Memory
Desk1 8GB (1866) / Desk2 16GB (1333) / Laptop 8Gb DDR3
Graphics Card(s)
Desk 1& 2NVidia GTX 650 & Laptops on board Intel
Sound Card
Desk 1 & 2 -XONAR DG Realtek High Def audio Laptop
Monitor(s) Displays
Desk 1 Benq HD 2450 / Desk2 Philips 24" / Laptop 17.5"
Screen Resolution
1920x1080 D1 & D2 & Laptop 1
Hard Drives
Desk1 Samsung 120GB 830 SSD
Asus ROG 256GB 850 Pro SSD
Desk2 Samsung 840 256 SSD
Toshiba 120GB EVO
PSU
Desk 1 Corsair HX 1050/ Laptop ? / Desk 2 Corsair HX 650
Case
Desk 1 Cooler HAF XM ? Toshiba laptop / Desk2 Coolermaster
Cooling
Fans on all Desk1 -2 Desk2 - all Coolermasters 5 Laptop ?
Keyboard
Desk 1 MS Sidewinder X6 Desk 2 MS Sidewinder X 4
Mouse
Desk 1&2 - Gigabyte MS 900 gamer - laptop - Logitec wireless
Internet Speed
ADSL2+
Other Info
One other Desktop (tester) and spare Toshba laptop both with SSD's
Running Kaspersky 2016 ISS on all machines config'd identically
Logitec audio stereo systems on each machine (x3)
Canon MG5250MFC
Router/modem TP-Link running WPA2SK
Not all Corsair PSUs are good. Be sure to check the reviews before choosing one. Generally, the AX and HX series are good. I've read a lot of complaints about the RM series.
This is true and they are not all made by the same manufacturer which may explain why the differences and as you say the RM series seem to have a particularly bad feedback.

You hit the head on the nail (or something like that). Not all being made by the same manufacturer is exactly why there are differences.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Win 7 Ultimate 64 bit
CPU
Intel i7-3930K
Motherboard
ASUS P9X79 WS
Memory
Kingston HyperX Genesis 32GB Kit (8x4GB Modules) 1600MHz DDR
Graphics Card(s)
MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB 256-bit GDDR
Sound Card
Asus Xonar Essence STX
Monitor(s) Displays
3x Asus VG248QE 24", Vizio 32" TV
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080, ?
Hard Drives
Samsung 128GB 840 Pro SSD (1),
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (4)
Samsung 4TB 850 EVO SSDs (16) external backup drives used in 2.5" hot swap bays in the computer.
PSU
Corsair HX750w
Case
Antec Two Hundred v2 (modified)
Cooling
Cooler Master GeminII S524 120mm (fan replaced with a 140mm)
Keyboard
Logitech G510s
Mouse
Logitech M525 (two in use)
Internet Speed
=< 32Mbps down, 8Mbps up
Antivirus
AVAST!, MBAM, SAS, Spybot S&D (all but MBAM free) Glary Util
Browser
IE11
Other Info
LSI 9211-8i HBA card (8 SATA III ports), 2.5" & 3.5" Hot Swap Bays, HooToo HT-CR001 PCI-E to USB 3.0 Internal Hub + 6 Slot Card Reader, and LG Model CH12LS28 BD-ROM Optical Drive. Also, ScanSnap S1500 ADF duplexing scanner, Canon 9000F flat bed scanner, Corsair SP2500 2.1 speakers, Samsung CLP 415nw laser color printer, Cyberpower PP2200SW UPS
I want to again thank you all for your suggestions. Since the consensus is Corsair, that is what I will get and steer away form the RM. == Since this is my tread, I am going to highjack to a different topic. I have used up my 3.5 inch bays. I have four 5.25 bays empty. If I should get another SSD in the future, is there such a thing as a 5.25 converter so I could put a 2.5 SSD (or move my 3.5 HDD) in one?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Yeah, just search on eBay or the like for an SSD bracket like this one. They're dirt cheap and really easy to fit.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
No, I am not asking about the 2.5 to 3.5. I have a 5.25 bay that I might want to use in the future. == Which reminds me of a story after seeing the picture of the 3.5 bracket. I just got a SSD this weekend in the mail. It came with the bracket. The screw holes on the bracket did not line up with SSD, even though both had the Kingston brand on them. It was not like a .25 inch off. It was an inch or more, strangest thing. I just put some Velcro on to hold the SSD.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 32-Bit - Build 7600 SP1
CPU
Intel Core i3-2120 3.30Ghz
Motherboard
Asus P8Z68-V LX Intel Z68 Socket H2 ATX
Memory
Kingston 4 GB DDR3 1333 mhz
Graphics Card(s)
AMD Radeon HD6670
Sound Card
Sound Blaster Audigy SE 24-Bit
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus VE228
Screen Resolution
1440 X 900
Hard Drives
OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB Sata 3 SSD ==
Kingston SH103/S3 120 G Hyper X 120 GB SSD ==
Western Digital 500 GB Caviar Green 7200 RPM ==
PSU
Corsair CX600M == 600 Watt
Case
NZXT Apollo - Silver with Clear Side Panel
Cooling
Three 120 mm Fans
Keyboard
Microsoft Natural 4000
Mouse
Microsoft Custom Optical 3000
Internet Speed
AT&T Fiber Optic Wireless Network
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials
Browser
Chrome
Other Info
120 mm Blue LED Fan -- Three Blue LED Lazer Light Sticks
Oh apologies, I read your post wrong. I'll have a look, there's bound to be something.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom Build
OS
W7 Pro x64 SP1 | W10 Pro IP x64 | W8.1 Pro x64 VM | Linux Mint VM
CPU
i7-4790k @ 4GHz (4.4GHz Boost)
Motherboard
ASUS Sabertooth Z87 (BIOS Rev 2004)
Memory
16GB DDR3 Kingston HyperX Fury @ 1600MHz CL 9-9-9-27
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 980 Classified
Sound Card
Realtek Onboard
Monitor(s) Displays
Samsung S27D390
Screen Resolution
1920 x 1080
Hard Drives
240GB Intel 520 Series SSD |
Samsung 850 EVO 120GB SSD |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Black |
2TB WD Caviar Green
PSU
Corsair HX850-80 Gold Modular
Case
Cooler Master Silencio 650
Cooling
Corsair H80i w/2 x Corsair SP120 | 2 x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B
Keyboard
Microsoft Sidewinder X4
Mouse
Gigabyte M6900 optical
Internet Speed
152mb
Antivirus
F-Secure
Browser
Firefox 38.0
Other Info
Backup Rig: Win 7 Pro 64-bit | AMD A10-5800k | ASUS F2A85-V Pro | 8GB Samsung DDR3 @1600MHz | 120GB Toshiba SDD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Cooler Master Silencio 550
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