Removing A Sticker

[seekermeister]

One of the many things that I have been doing to a vehicle that I just bought, is removing all of the stickers throughout the inside and outside of it. That was easy for the most part, because they were on glass surfaces, but there is a large one on the tailgate that is directly on the paint. Obviously, I can't scrape it off, and the Goo Gone remover says that it will remove paint, so that is out. How can I do it without damaging the paint?

The only thing that comes to mind is using a heat gun, that is like a hair dryer on steriods, but that is somewhat expensive, since I would have to buy one. Is there any other option?

 

[Maguscreed]

I once did this with nothing but rubbing alcohol a rag and some patience , it took several minutes of rubbing to get it going once a piece loosened up the whole thing pretty much gave way rather quickly though. I would follow that by quickly cleaning it off before it has a chance to try to eat into the clear coat. (though assuming there is a coat of wax on the vehicle (or there was when the sticker was first applied) the wax is pretty much immune to the alcohol.
Just be persistent with a consistent motion and pressure.
While there is minimal risk to the clear coat, you'd really have to leave the alcohol on there for a extended period of time for it to do visible damage. Which would be rather difficult since it evaporates so quickly.

Hopefully the sticker hasn't been there too long , if it has the paint underneath will likely be a visibly brighter color anyway.
Not much you can do about that on modern cars. It's near impossible to wear the spot without damaging the paint.

If you are looking at spending money anyway, the best thing to do is just take it to a professional detailer, and tell him you want it gone. They have their tricks of the trade to get it off there safely.

 

[boohbah]

You could try surgical spirit,not sure what you would call it stateside, but it removes most sticky residue left behind. as a kid my mum used to use it to remove the black sticky lines on my arms and legs left by the old fabric sticking plasters (band aid) in the 70's

 

[Maguscreed]

Surgical spirit is rubbing alcohol ..it's the same stuff.
http://www.google.com/search?source=ig&hl=en&rlz=&q=surgical+spirit&btnG=Google+Search

 

[boohbah]

thanks, next time im stateside i know what to ask for.

 

[seekermeister]

I've got plenty of isopropyl, but your mention of wax or clear coat is not something that I really know. I have no idea if it was ever waxed, however the sheen of the paint is very good, so that indicates that either wax or clear coat has been used, since it is a 2000 vehicle. Is it standard practice for General Motors to clear coat all of their vehicles?

 

[Hopalong X]

You can use a hand held hair dryer on some stickers to remove them.
If it is the thick vinyl ones this should work.

Start at one corner and do not overheat.
Low-medium heat.
Heat as you peel.
Some of these type stickers are peelable on a very hot day.

They are not using the old style nasty glues on most of the vinyl stickers. Most are reusable.

Clear coat yes since about 1995 at least.
Most manufacturers are painted that way.

 

[seekermeister]

I think that this sticker would be classified as being thick, at least it is entirely opaque and has an edge that can be felt. As far as the kind of glue holding it, I hope that it is not the sticky kind you refer to, but judging by the stickers that were on the glass, it may well be. Even with the Goo Gone, it took a lot to get rid of the glue, even after the sticker itself had been scraped off. The gal that I bought this vehicle from was sticker crazy. She even wrapped some colored duct tape around the hand grip above the glove box, which doesn't want to come off easily either.

 

[Hopalong X]

The ones with a lot of glue are a pain.

If it is a vinyl reusable type the hair dryer will get it with almost no residue. Mostly around the edges. A little soap and water and your good to go.

From your description of her habits you probably won't be that lucky but I hope so.!

Mike

 

[seekermeister]

I found a heat gun on sale at Harbor Freight, that I would like to try, but unfortunately the only way to do so would be to ask a downstairs neighbor to let me use their patio outlet to plug in an extension cord. I'm pretty sure that they would, because we don't pay bills here, but I hate asking for favors...unless they are simply questions, like here. Too bad there is no such thing as a battery powered heat gun.

 

[seekermeister]

I won't need a heat gun after all. I did what I should have done in the first place, and pulled an edge up with a thumbnail, and then the rest peeled off easily. As you said, it left a bit of an outline, but I'm headed back downstairs to try cleaning it with some isopropyl. The next job to tackle is to fix the door locks. The key that I was given only works in the driver's door and ignition, despite the claim by the previous owner that one key fit all. It seems unlikely that the passenger door and liftgate locks would have failed prior to the ignition and driver door, as they have the highest use.

 

[Maguscreed]

they both operate on a hook and pin system if they are anything like my truck.
Meaning there could just be a little piece that needs to be reattached inside the panel...
bit trickier with the tailgate though.

 

[seekermeister]

I started to go down to check it out a bit earlier, but the heat drove me back inside. Before tearing into the doors, it seems wise to lube the locks first, but after some Googling, I found one answer about the lube to use...

What I would suggest is getting graphite oil.Put it on the key,then unlock and lock the doors.You can also use stuff like WD-40,Liquid Wrench,or Ballistol.

(IMPROVE) Graphite can be EVIL for locks because some folks put to much in. Don't use petrolium products like WD-40 and such as a lube as it dries to a sticky substance and attracts/holds on to dust and dirt. It works well to get a lock turning though. Eventually the springs might get clogged. Use a teflon or silicone base product or something like Tri-flow with PTFE.

I have always been one to use graphite, but maybe I need to change. What about Tri-Flow, would there be something better?

 

[GEWB]

There are many good detailing sites online that give instructions. Use the search term "debadge".

Regards,
GEWB

 

[seekermeister]

There are many good detailing sites online that give instructions. Use the search term "debadge".

Regards,
GEWB

Thanks, but the sticker problems are solved. Now I have moved on to the door locks. I have two locks that won't work mechanically with a keys, and none that will work with the power lock system, even though the fuse for that circuit is good. That's too many electronic locking systems not to have a common cause, but if it isn't a fuse, I don't know what to look for.

I tried to use a DVM earlier today, but the way in which the switch panels are designed, one can't access contact with any of the contact points, without disassembling everything, and the way that they are locked together, I don't know how to do that, without breaking something.

 

[Zepher]

I didn't see the make and model of the car you bought so I can't offer advice on what to do before knowing what you bought.

 

[seekermeister]

It is a 2000 Chevy S10 Blazer LS 4 door, with 4WD Automatic.

 

[Zepher]

There is a relay for the power door locks that may have failed, or power is not getting to the relay.
a common spot for the relay is behind the drivers side kick panel (panel next to the parking brake foot pedal).

 

[seekermeister]

Thanks I'll look for it this afternoon. Is that relay before or after the fuse in the circuit?

 

[A Guy]

Autozone has many repair guides. It's free, but you have to register.

Repair Info | AutoZone.com

A Guy