Removing A Sticker

[seekermeister]

Thanks, that is a handy guide, but the manuals don't go into the depth needed to answer my question. I did find some other websites with somewhat more comprehensive manuals, but they all included a annual subscription fee. I may subscribe to one, but I'm not ready for that yet.

 

[djl47]

I used Berryman brake cleaner to remove some pine pitch from my vehicle. I tested it beforehand to see if it would harm the paint and it didn't. Bumper sticker glue is often dissolved by WD-40 which shouldn't harm paint either but I would test it somewhere it won't show. Keep in mind that you'll have to detail and wax the surface afterwards. The paint around the sticker has been exposed to the elements allowing it to fade and oxidize while the paint under the sticker has not.

 

[LiquidSnak]

If you are planning on doing quite a bit of work yourself on the vehicle, I would recommend picking up a haynes or Chilton manual. They go in depth into disassembly, and R&I. Your problem does sound like a relay isn't getting power, though.

 

[seekermeister]

If you are planning on doing quite a bit of work yourself on the vehicle, I would recommend picking up a haynes or Chilton manual. They go in depth into disassembly, and R&I. Your problem does sound like a relay isn't getting power, though.

It has been a while since I had a Haynes or Chilton manual, but in the ones that I did have, I know that they were good for general reference, but too often found then to fall short when needing specific information in certain areas. From what I saw recently on the prices of those manuals, they wouldn't be worth the expense to me, because they are far from cheap.

 

[LiquidSnak]

Amazon.com: Haynes Chevrolet S-10 and GMC Sonoma Pick-ups (94 - 04) Manual: Home & Garden

 

[Zepher]

Helms sometimes has sales on their manuals, I bought the one for my 88 Firebird Formula a few years back for $36 shipped from them.
your manual is a $135+ shipping,
2000 S/T Sonoma Blazer Jimmy Envoy And Bravada Service Manual - Helm Incorporated

 

[seekermeister]

Helms sometimes has sales on their manuals, I bought the one for my 88 Firebird Formula a few years back for $36 shipped from them.
your manual is a $135+ shipping,
2000 S/T Sonoma Blazer Jimmy Envoy And Bravada Service Manual - Helm Incorporated

I've just about become convinced that your suggestion about the relay being the problem is correct, and you have given me most of what I need to know, except the precise location of the relay. From your screenshots, it is obvious that your references are not necessarily for my particular vehicle, and I know that sometimes things such as this will vary, even between years of a given model.

I found a post on another forum similar to mine, and Googled the part # the OP stated, and thought that I found it at O'Reillys, but the salesman said that it was not in his system, but did find one of another brand. That would suffice, if I was sure which relay was which, because they all look too much the same.

The reason for my previous question regarding the location in the circuit between the fuse and the relay, was for diagnostic purposes, which would be nice to do before spending hours on my head searching for a tiny "black box". This is one of those situations where that the diagnosis is more difficult than the cure.

As far as the Helms manual goes, the current price is more than I can afford, so I will have to wait for a sale. However, I did notice a statement from the link that you gave:

Note: GM Truck Owners, for model years 1996 and prior the service manual is available as a set (or kit) and also sold in sections (electrical & emissions, shop/service manual, unit repair/chassis manual). All three sections are needed for full coverage.

I'm guessing that accounts for the separate electrical section you have next to your manual, yet the electrical chart you show is in the main manual. I thought that I might be able to afford the little electrical section, since it is supposed to be available separately...if it contains all schematics, and anything else that would make things easier?

 

[Bongo]

Become a noob here Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums - Powered by vBulletin see if you can get some free help.
Jerry

 

[seekermeister]

Hmm, I was about to go to AutoZone to see what they have, but for some reason, the battery on the Blazer was dead. It's possible that I left something on, but I have no idea of what. It has been so long since I used it, so I'm having to charge the battery on my jumpstart system, so that I can jump the Blazer's battery with it. I read a comment elsewhere, that many of the circuits share components, such as relays, and if so, that might explain the dead battery. However, since it has only been a couple of days since the vehicle was running, I kind of think that the half hour that I played the radio while working on it yesterday did it in. Maybe I need a new battery also.

The Blazer did not come with a spare, so I found a matching wheel on eBay very reasonably priced, which I bought. When it arrives, I shall buy a new tire for it, but I do not want to put it in the carrier under the vehicle, that would be too much of a hassle for me these days. I know that there are swing away tire carriers that fit at the tailgate that would do nicely, but the 4 door version of the Blazer did not come with them as an option. That leave an aftermarket carrier, but I haven't had any luck finding one yet.

 

[Zepher]

Some other vehicles are more than one manual, mine is only 1 manual with a small supplement for some minor electrical changes for my model year.

here is some info on the wiring of the door locks,
Door Trigger White (-) Courtesy Light or BCM Front of Console
Door Lock Light Blue (+) Driver's Kick Panel or Keyless Module under Driver's Dash
Door Unlock White (+)

BCM stands for Body Control Module which controls a few of the interior items, like keyless entry and courtesy lights.

 

[derekimo]

Here's some info from that forum Bongo linked earlier,

Power locks - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

 

[seekermeister]

BCM stands for Body Control Module which controls a few of the interior items, like keyless entry and courtesy lights.

Thanks, that answers the question that I was about to ask.

 

[seekermeister]

Here's some info from that forum Bongo linked earlier,

Power locks - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

I had been lurking around that forum, but missed that thread. The schematics are the most useful part of it, but I must confess that I only half understand how to read them. If what I understood is right, the fuse is after the relays in the circuit, so the power to it comes from the relays, which helps some.

The problem is that there appears to be 6 relays involved in the problem, and I'm not yet clear on their position or appearance. Googling, I found two totally different relays that were supposed to be for the locks, so I don't know which is actually needed, or if both are used? Appearance and location would make it simple to check, because I would simply buy a relay and try it out...assuming that all 6 aren't bad.

EDIT: Oops! I think that I was wrong, and the fuse is the power source for the circuit.

 

[Sub Styler]

One of the many things that I have been doing to a vehicle that I just bought, is removing all of the stickers throughout the inside and outside of it. That was easy for the most part, because they were on glass surfaces, but there is a large one on the tailgate that is directly on the paint. Obviously, I can't scrape it off, and the Goo Gone remover says that it will remove paint, so that is out. How can I do it without damaging the paint?

The only thing that comes to mind is using a heat gun, that is like a hair dryer on steriods, but that is somewhat expensive, since I would have to buy one. Is there any other option?

A heat gun may cause your paintwork to bubble! I would try steaming it off!

 

[seekermeister]

A heat gun may cause your paintwork to bubble! I would try steaming it off!

That's a good idea, which I did think about, but only after having finished removing the sticker. The after thought occurred when in the bathroom and seeing the steam gun in the closet.

 

[seekermeister]

A question popped into my head, regarding the wheel that I mentioned back in post # 29...since it is an alloy wheel, and I have never had any alloy wheels, I started probing my memory, and vaguely recalled hearing that it is easy to destroy a wheel like that, when mounting a tire. Not sure why, but I'm wondering if there is something special about how the mounting should be handled?

 

[Zepher]

Alloy wheels are very strong, and are you asking about manually mounting a tire to the wheel or the wheel to the swing arm on that you plan on installing on the back of the Blazer?

You should always let a tire shop mount and dismount the tire from the wheel, it's safer using the right tools.

A tire machine has the ability to scratch and damage the finish on an alloy wheel, which could be what you recall hearing, won't destroy it though.

 

[seekermeister]

No, I'm thinking of the mounting of the tire to the wheel. I think that the spare tire carrier will have to wait for a while, because the only one that I've found so far costs $149.99 + $49.99 shipping. With so many other things on the agenda, this will have to take a backseat to them. Since the wheel that i bought was used, and will be used for the spare, I'm less concerned about scratching it, than something worse. It was years ago when I heard about the possibility of damage, so maybe they have been improved now...I hope. However, the seller made a point of stating that it wasn't warped, which I imagine would be caused by a mounting machine, rather than normal usage, so I'm uncertain.

EDIT: Or maybe it was when a tire is mounted to the vehicle with an air ratchet...I don't know.

 

[Zepher]

it's kinda hard to warp a wheel with a tire machine. Air Impact won't do it either.
I've had 22 different sets of wheels on my 2 cars in the past 10 years and used an impact to remove them and put them on.
And my brother mounts and balances my tires for me at his shop.
Warping/bending results from pot holes, curbs, and running over things.

I just had these tires mounted a couple of weeks ago,
Sumitomo HTRZ II 275/40/17

 

[seekermeister]

Unusual tread, but they look good.