A couple things. I don't see an OS. Understand you cannot use a current copy of Windows if it came with another computer UNLESS it is a "full retail" version and you uninstall it from the other computer. To clarify, if you have an OEM copy of Windows, that is licensed to the hardware it was purchased for and therefore, you CANNOT transfer it to another computer. You MUST buy a new license for the new computer. Full retail versions are typically sold in boxes at retail stores. I have NEVER seen a full retail version sold with a factory made (Dell, HP, Gateway, Sony, Acer, etc.) computer.
I did not see any optical devices.
You said you will be buying these components over the next 5 - 8 months. With the exception of the case, and perhaps opticals, I think that would be a mistake. Instead of buying over a stretch of time, you should save your money until you can buy all at once. Otherwise, there's the risk your motherboard, for example, goes obsolete before you ever get a chance to turn it on. Certainly, a new revision could come out, or a different CPU that might work better for you. Also, many retailers offer "bundles" where you can save a few dollars buying.
I think 4Gb for that CPU is a mismatch - ESPECIALLY if going with 64-bit Windows and I see no reason anyone buying/building a new computer should not go 64-bit. 32-bit is history. I would fully populate your board with 4 x 2Gb not only to better match the CPU, but also so you don't have to worry about RAM compatibility issues down the road should you decide to upgrade later. Because certainly, you will not be able to find the exact same RAM.
I like Antec cases!!!! Sure, they are heavy and not the best looking, but heavy steel is more sturdy and that is important. Even the best aluminum cases can flex when moved (for monthly inspections and cleaning) and that can cause microfractures at the motherboard mounting points. Not good. As for looks, fancy facades go out of style and flashing lights do nothing for performance, consume power, add some heat, and do nothing for performance (worth repeating). And besides, I tend to watch my monitors, not the case. The case should sit
quietly and discretely out of the way, protecting the components inside from knocks and heat.
I will NEVER buy a case again that does not have an easily removable, washable air filter. Period.
I like and use almost exclusively Gigabyte boards so IMO, that's a good choice. However, I like Intel CPUs but AMD makes excellent CPUs too.
Finally (if that's not enough
), your PSU should ALWAYS be the last thing you decide on. I agree completely with kodi - the PSU is the most critical component and is typically chosen as an afterthought, or as a place to save some money. I like to use the analogy of buying a new dream car. You wouldn't put off-brand generic gas from the corner tobacco/liquor/convenience store in your new Porsche would you? Well you might, but would you expect it to run at peak performance? A car engine can miss a beat and keep on running but not so for digital electronics.
So once you have selected all your components, then, and only then should you select your PSU. Here's my canned text on sizing and selecting a good PSU.
Use the
eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your
minimum power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home) or extreme 3D animated gaming, I recommend setting both TDP and system load to 100%. These steps ensure the supply has adequate head room for stress free (and perhaps quieter) operation, and future hardware demands. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:
- Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
- Efficiency,
- Total wattage.
Don’t try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply! Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. Look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of
PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Note that some case retailers “toss in” a generic or inadequate PSU just to make the case sale. Be prepared to “toss out” that supply for a good one with sufficient power. You can save the other for testing fans.
Most PSUs have an efficiency rating of around 70%. This means for every 100 watts of power a PSU draws from the wall, only 70 watts is delivered to the motherboard, with the rest wasted in the form of heat. The best supplies are 85 to 90% efficient, and as expected, cost more. I strongly recommend you pick a quality supply with an efficiency rating equal to or greater than 80%. Look for
80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant labels.
Too big of a PSU hurts nothing but your budget. Your computer will draw from the PSU only what it needs, not what the PSU is capable of delivering. If a computer needs 300 watts it will draw 300 watts regardless if the PSU is a 350W, 650W, or 1000W PSU. In turn, the PSU, regardless its size will draw from the wall only what it needs to support the computer. In this example, it will draw 300 watts, plus another 45 – 90 watts, depending on the PSU’s inefficiency.
As noted, the eXtreme Calculator determines the
minimum requirements. If the calculator (with the changes I suggested) recommends a 400 watt minimum, a quality 400W supply will serve you just fine. But a quality 550W – 600W supply will have, among other things, larger heat sinks to dissipate potentially more heat. It might have a larger fan too. The 400W supply will run most of the time closer to capacity, while the larger supply will be loafing along, rarely breaking a sweat. To help the smaller heat sinks get rid of the wasted 80 watts (20% of 400) of heat, the fan in the 400W supply may need to run full speed, while the fan in the larger supply, with bigger sinks just loafs along too – but in near silence.
Don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Surge and spike protectors are inadequate.
But i cant find it in any danish online shop 
