Solved Upgrading MOBO and CPU with different chipsets

Oz1956

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Current PC info:

Windows 7 OS; AMD Athlon 64x2 Dual Core Processor 6000+ 3.00 GHz; MSI K9A2GM-FIH; 6 GB ram; 750 PS, MSI GeForce GTX 650 Ti; and a 500 GB HD. This, of course, runs on an AMD chipset.

I am upgrading my system with MB MSI|Z87M GAMING MATX R; CPU INTEL|CORE I5 4590 3.3G 6M R; and
MEM 8G|KINGSTON HX318C10F/8 R. This change will, of course, change my chipset to Intel.

I have been researching the web about how difficult this will be to do, since I'm really not certain on how to proceed. What all do I need to uninstall from my system before making this major change?

How will this affect my Windows 7 installation, that I just recently upgraded to? I've checked out Microsoft's dealing on this and being money hungry as they are they consider a new motherboard as a new system. They claim if you buy a system with the OS already installed that you don't have rights to the OS, but I had my system custom built and bought my OS software for the build, which at the time was Windows XP. I just recently upgrading to Windows 7, when XP went obsolete. I know I'm probably not making a lot of sense, but I don't want to have to buy a new OS just to upgrade an outdated system.

Any links or suggestions on how to make this an easy change over will be much appreciated. Everything I have found so far is so out of date that I can't be certain what would be the proper solution for me.

Thanks for you time.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64x2
I had my system custom built and bought my OS software for the build, which at the time was Windows XP. I just recently upgrading to Windows 7, when XP went obsolete.

What, exactly, did you buy when "recently upgrading to Windows 7"?

A download that you burned?

A Product Key only?

A so-called retail disk from a standard source like Best Buy or Newegg?

Some other type of disk from some other type of source?

Do you have any problems with doing a clean install?
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
If it's retail Upgrade then it can migrate no problem.

If it's Builder's OEM then it is tied to the first mobo, however there are reports that MS is making exceptions since that's the only version of Win7 now avaialble. You'd need to try activating and then if it refuses use the phone option to plead your case.

Normally a Clean Reinstall Windows 7 is best, especially if you don't have the perfect install compiled in the blue link, but you could also try to Adjust Win7 to boot on new hardware with Paragon Adaptive Restore CD to see how that works for you first.

You will need to reactivate on the new hardware whichever method you use. If you have retail Upgrade version it may require leaving the key blank during install then afterwards doing the quick Option 3 workaround in Clean Install with a Upgrade Windows 7 Version
 
I had my system custom built and bought my OS software for the build, which at the time was Windows XP. I just recently upgrading to Windows 7, when XP went obsolete.

What, exactly, did you buy when "recently upgrading to Windows 7"?

A download that you burned?

A Product Key only?

A so-called retail disk from a standard source like Best Buy or Newegg?

Some other type of disk from some other type of source?

Do you have any problems with doing a clean install?


Actually, what I bought was an OEM Windows 7 software disk for a new build, not a retail disk. Unfortunately, I bought only the 32 bit instead of 64 bit, so I went online and downloaded the 64 bit version, installed it and moved on. No, I really have no problem with a 'Clean Install' as there is nothing on my HD that I can't replace. If this is the easiest way to go, so be it.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64x2
I'm beginning to think a Clean Install might be the best way to go. Will this reset my BIOS for the new mobo and chipset or will I need to do some tweaking on my own? This is all so new to me. Don't want to mess it up.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64x2
You shouldn't have any problems at all in doing the clean install per se. Just disconnect all but 1 hard drive and boot from that disc you bought.

You may well have an activation problem as Greg mentioned, depending on Microsoft's whim at the moment. You can go 30 days without activation. If you ultimately can't activate due to having an OEM license, then you get to buy another one.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Ignatz Special; 4 speed manual gearbox; factory air conditioning; one of one
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium SP1, 64-bit
CPU
Intel Skylake i5-6600K, not overclocked
Motherboard
AsRock Z170M Extreme 4, micro ATX
Memory
8 GB HyperX DDR4-2666 (2 x 4 GB)
Graphics Card(s)
none; graphics are integrated on CPU
Sound Card
onboard: Realtek ALC1150; external: USB Behringer UF0-202
Monitor(s) Displays
Dell S2340M 23 inch IPS
Screen Resolution
1600 x 900
Hard Drives
System: Crucial MX100 series SSD, 128 GB;
Data: Samsung Spinpoint 103SJ, 1 TB;
Backup: WD Caviar Green WD30EZRX-00D8PB0, 3 TB
PSU
Rosewill SilentNight 500 watt fanless, semi-modular
Case
Antec Solo II
Cooling
Noctua NH-U12S; Noctua F12 intake, Noctua S12A exhaust
Keyboard
Microsoft 200 6JH-00001 USB
Mouse
Dell or Microsoft optical wired; USB
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials and Malwarebytes Premium
Browser
Pale Moon
Other Info
All fans PWM; speeds at idle: CPU circa 500 rpm; intake circa 600 rpm; exhaust circa 600 rpm; CPU temps 27 idle and 47 C load in a warm room (27 C/81 F) when running Intel Extreme Tuning Utility stress test.
Thanks for all your help. Just so you know, I'm don't clutter my HD with stuff I can't replace, because I will be replacing the HD in the near future. My system will be completely redone then. Then I'll worry about what's on my HD.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Custom built
OS
Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit
CPU
AMD Athlon 64x2
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