USBs disconnect/reconnect during thunderstorms

PlanK69

New member
Local time
3:26 PM
Messages
9
Hi there.

So I have a problem with my USBs (either keyboard, mouse or webcam) that disconnects and instantly reconnects during a thunderstorm (whenever there's a thunderbolt, my computer makes the USB connect/disconnect sound and then 'stutters' for a second). This is very, very irritating and causes me to not be able to play games during thunderstorms.

Now I've heard that this is caused by the 'extra static electricity in the air, being picked up by the long keyboard/mouse wire, and causing it to disconnect'... but, my questions is, how do I fix this? Should I wrap all my cables in tin-foil? What can be done about this?

Any help will be appreciated and I'll rep if my problem is solved. Thanks.

Windows 7, SP1, 64bit.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
64bit
I have a friend that went to see the storm on her small office window.
There were thunders and lightning. Beautiful.
Then the power went out.
When it came back, EVERYTHING that was on (computer, monitor, scanner, printers etc) was irreversibly damage.

So my advice, when it begins a lightning storm, have a break.
Shut down and unplug all devices from the wall.
 

My Computers

System One System Two

  • Computer type
    PC/Desktop
    Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
    custom build
    OS
    Windows 7 HP 64
    CPU
    i5 6600K - 800MHz to 4200MHz
    Motherboard
    GA-Z170-HD3P
    Memory
    4+4G GSkill DDR4 3000
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG - Intel 530
    Monitor(s) Displays
    Samsung 226BW
    Screen Resolution
    1680x1050
    Hard Drives
    (1) -1 SM951 – 128GB M.2 AHCI PCIe SSD drive for Windows 7 and Lubuntu
    (2) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for Data
    (3) -1 WD SATA 3 - 1T for backup
    PSU
    Thermaltake 450W TR2 gold
    Keyboard
    Old and good Chicony mechanical keyboard
    Mouse
    Logitech mX performance - 9 buttons (had to disable some)
    Internet Speed
    500Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox 64
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
  • Computer type
    Laptop
    System Manufacturer/Model Number
    Asus Q550LF
    OS
    Windows 7 Pro
    CPU
    i7-4500U 800MHz to 3.0GHz
    Motherboard
    Asus Q550LF
    Memory
    (4+4)G DDR3 1600
    Graphics Card(s)
    IG intel 4400 + NVIDIA GeForce GT 745M
    Sound Card
    Realtek
    Monitor(s) Displays
    LG Display LP156WF4-SPH1
    Screen Resolution
    1920 x 1080
    Hard Drives
    BX500 120G SSD for Windows and programs +
    1T HDD for data
    Internet Speed
    500 Mb/s
    Browser
    Firefox
    Other Info
    TinyWall firewall
I wonder if going wireless like blutooth, would eliminate the issue?? or open another can of worms.
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell
OS
Windows 7 Ent. x64
There may have a possibility your computer had a spike, but may not be.

To be safe, do get a power surge protector power extension, to prevent damage to you devices.


You can do a simple test.

Ensure the computer is off.

Take a usb cable to insert to the USB port.

Most USB cable tend to be smaller than the USB port.

If the USB cable insert into the USB port and is tight, this is the correct & excellent.

These sound pop-up mean that the connector is not tight, tend to be loose.
That is why there is this sound.
 

My Computer

Computer type
Laptop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Toshiba L630 and L735
OS
Windows 7 x64
Hard Drives
240 GB SSD
To be safe, do get a power surge protector power extension, to prevent damage to you devices.
To sometimes compromise better protection already inside a computer, get that near zero joule power surge protector. It only claims to protect from surges too tiny to overwhelm protection already inside all computers. Ignore advise that does not include or discuss specification numbers.

Something completely different, unfortunately also called a surge protector, does protect from all surges including direct lightning strikes. But that was not discussed. And is detailed later.

USB stutter is due to noise. Nobody can say anything useful until all connections are discussed. For example, is each USB device powered from its USB cable or via some separate power source. Remember, the noise (not surge) that might cause stutter must have an incoming path to that USB device. And a completely different and separate outgoing path. If both do not exist, then no such noise could exist. Solutions start by first defining a problem - every possible incoming and outgoing current path.

Meanwhile, that noise current creates single digit volts. View numbers on that protector. It does absolutely nothing until an AC voltage well exceeds 330 or 500 volts. Clearly is a major voltage difference between single digit and 300+ volts that others forget to discuss.

If anything needs protection, then everything needs that protection. That stutter would be a canary in the coal mine. It is saying a transient must be averted where it enters a building. To protect everything. And to do protection where protection can be effective.

Two separate actions exist. First is to define incoming and outgoing paths via each USB device. Then others can define a problem BEFORE recommending a solution. Second is to have effective transient protection for all appliances - a 'whole house' solution. Plenty more is to discuss on both action items.
 

My Computer

OS
XP
Now I've heard that this is caused by the 'extra static electricity in the air, being picked up by the long keyboard/mouse wire, and causing it to disconnect'... but, my questions is, how do I fix this?
That's BS!

Lightning might affect a wireless keyboard and mouse, but not wired. Lightning, however, can sure introduce significant surges and spikes in the power coming off your grid - especially if you house has poor or faulting wiring. And that could sure affect your computer, including the USB ports your keyboard and mouse are plugged into.

Ideally, during severe weather, you should power down and unplug all your electronics, not play on it.

Short of that, I would urge you to put your computer on a "good" UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation). Note a surge and spike protector is little more than a fancy and expensive extension cord. For extreme high voltage anomalies (extreme surges and spikes) they simply kill power (if lucky and they are working properly) to your connected devices. Never good. For low voltage anomalies such as sags (opposite of surges), dips (opposite of spikes) and brownouts (long duration sags) a surge and spike protector does absolutely nothing.

Also every computer user should have access to a AC Outlet Tester to ensure your outlet is properly wired and grounded. I recommend one with a GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupt) indicator as it can be used to test bathroom and kitchen outlets too. These testers can be found for your type and voltage outlet, foreign or domestic, (like this one for the UK) at most home improvement stores, or even the electrical department at Wal-Mart. Use it to test all the outlets in the house and if a fault is shown, have it fixed by a qualified electrician.
 

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
BrightWorks Systems B4
OS
Windows 7 Profession 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i7-860 Quad
Motherboard
Gigabyte P55-UD4P
Memory
Mushkin 4x2Gb PC12800
Graphics Card(s)
Gigabyte GTX260 896Mb
Sound Card
Integrated 7.1 HD Dolby
Monitor(s) Displays
2 Samsung 2220wm-HAS 22"
Screen Resolution
1680 x 1050 | 1680 x 1050
Hard Drives
WD HE 1Tb
PSU
Corsair TX-750W
Case
Ultra M998
Cooling
OEM
Keyboard
MS Wireless Comfort 5000
Mouse
MS Wireless 5000
Internet Speed
Cable and pretty darn fast
That's BS! Lightning might affect a wireless keyboard and mouse, but not wired. Lightning, however, can sure introduce significant surges and spikes in the power coming off your grid - especially if you house has poor or faulting wiring.

None defines appliance protection. Plenty of hearsay exists when one only believe a first thing told. Many do not do what is always necessary to learn. A recommendation must say why with numbers. No numbers indicate classic junk science reasoning.

Another indication of a lie: a reply is based in soundbyte rationalizing rather than reality that takes paragraphs and specification numbers.

Begin with BS about damage via wireless. Lightning strikes within maybe 30 feet of a long wire antenna. Antennas maximize E-M (wireless) effects; ie create a highest voltage from an adjacent lightning strike. That antenna lead might be at thousands of volts. An NE-2 glow lamp - a less than 1 milliamp conductor - causes thousands of volts drop to tens. Why? E-M field energy content is trivial. Made irrelevant by a tiniest energy consumer - a neon glow lamp. Damage from E-M (wireless) fields are routinely averted by something that conducts maybe less than 0.001 amps. Protection from lightning fields is that routinely made irrelevant. Tens of times greater threat is to a wired keyboard; not on a wireless one.

Second, unplugging is a least reliable solution for so many reasons. For starters, surges too often occur without any warning. Appliances that need unplugging cannot be - ie dishwasher, bathroom and kitchen GFCIs, furnace, clocks, refrigerator, smoke detectors, etc. Best protection operates in microseconds. And costs about $1 per protected appliance.

Your telco's CO computer suffers about 100 surges with each thunderstorm. Using his reasoning, then everyone is without phone service for four days after each storm while they replace that $multi-million computer. Reality. 100 surges with each storm and no damage. Using a proven solution that every homeowner can install for about $1 per protected appliance. One can be scammed with magic box protectors. Or one can never sleep, never shower, never leave the house, etc so as to protect by unplugging. Only wild speculation assumes unplugging is effective.

Third, AC outlet tester says nothing about protecting appliances. Only the uninformed believe a wall receptacle safety ground does what an earth ground must. That safety ground protects humans. It does not protect hardware - for a long list of reasons associated with electrical numbers.

That outlet tester cannot even define safety ground good. It can only report some safety ground defects. Often recommended by many who have no idea what is being reported. Meanwhile appliance protection means a ground connection must be low impedance (ie wire without splices or sharp bends). Low impedance is another critical number completely unknown the many who use a word "BS" as science fact.

Four, back to well proven science. A "$1 per protected appliance" whole house solution is effective because (a) it makes a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to (b) single point earth ground. As was done over 100 years ago. Then a facility (ie telco CO) suffers about 100 surges with each storm - without damage. That says where hundreds of thousands of joules harmlessly dissipate. Then a direct lightning strike (ie 20,000 amps) results in no damage. Every sentence explained with numbers.

If a surge is permitted anywhere inside, then well proven 'whole house' protection (with the always required low impedance connection to earth ground) is missing. Routine should be thunderstorms without any indication that a nearby strike existed (other than noise). Interruptions to USB devices or "irreversible damage" indicates a human mistake exists. Learn starting with how surge protection has always been done. If any wire enter without connecting low impedance (ie less than 10 feet) to earth ground (directly or via a protector), then a consumer has literally invited that surge inside to do damage.

Protection from lightning (and many other surges) is so routine that damage is traceable to a human mistake. Effective protection means one knows where hundreds of thousands of joules are harmlessly absorbed. Even a receptacle safety ground or old wiring is completely irrelevant. Protection is only as effective as its single point earth ground. As demonstrated by so many facts with numbers. And by over 100 years of well proven science and experience.

If numbers were learned, then he could explain why that UPS and AVR do not even claim to protect hardware. Where is one number to justify that wild speculation? Too many are only educated by hearsay, wild speculation, and junk science reasoning.

What many above did not have and need is described - for about $1 per protected appliance and other numbers. And without emotional BS fiction.
 

My Computer

OS
XP
Ok so I've read all the posts and what I'm getting from it is "install surge protectors". My computer already runs on a UPS so that won't need to change. I just find it very strange that when I hear thunder from 5-10 kilometers away, my keyboard/mouse disconnects and reconnects... that's unexplained so far (unless somebody is suggesting that the thunder is causing the power output to increase from 230volt to something higher/lower, and that's what's causing my keyboard/mouse to disconnect? but I highly doubt that an increase/decrease in power from the wall socket, would cause any problems with specifically JUST my USBs)...

So, I'll make sure my computer is plugged in with only surge-protector plugs, and see if that changes anything the next time there's thunder around. I'll mark the threat solved, if everything is fine during the next thunderstorm. Anyone who still feels they can contribute to solving my problem is welcome to offer any info that they can.

(The people who suggested that I plug out my computer and stop playing while there's bad weather around, didn't get the point of my question and didn't provide any useful info pertaining to my USB disconnecting problem.)
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
OS
64bit
@ westom

You are absolutely correct.

Without the proper equipment and that is a very complex subject in it's self their is a large degree of speculation.

When it comes to lighting the window of what might of happened even gets bigger.

Because this is not a electronic forum but a Windows 7 forum could you suggest a electronics forum one could use for all the electronics and all the equipment needed to get very deep into testing.

It would also be handy if you could let us know where one can find schematics of all the various components of a computer system. Schematics are critical to proper troubleshooting.

Many years ago I did get into some basics using signal generators and oscilloscopes. I don't ever know if they still use such equipment.

As being a retired Master Mechanic I also agree that like any other trade that mechanics come in all levels of knowledge, craftsmanship and ethics. Jane Doe public must find one or more that they trust.

Their are good house painters and their are bad house painters.
Then their are good house painters that their employer doesn't allow the time to do a good job. Their is no one basket to put all house painters in.

Their is no one basket to put all auto mechanics in.

Just my thoughts.

Jack
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Its a tough one - loads of variables

Protect yourself with good protection, be it heavy duty surge / current regulator or UPS etc

Office should have this covered unless small small office to protect incoming utility supply. re wired interference ?? Not sure the PC / Windows will not be effected so only power from the utility socket can cause changes, electricity is never constant at the best of times so the swing needs to be a bit more than normal - never tested this

I have tested UPS or this and pulled the plug many many times with general office PS and wired keyboard and mouse or laptops main powered with wireless, no problems to report
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Dell (Assorted)
OS
Win 7 Pro x86
Ok so I've read all the posts and what I'm getting from it is "install surge protectors". My computer already runs on a UPS so that won't need to change. I just find it very strange that when I hear thunder from 5-10 kilometers away, my keyboard/mouse disconnects and reconnects... that's unexplained so far
First, unexplained because you did not do what must exist before any useful answer is possible. Again, "USB stutter is due to noise. Nobody can say anything useful until all connections are discussed. For example, is each USB device powered from its USB cable or via some separate power source. Remember, the noise (not surge) that might cause stutter must have an incoming path to that USB device. And a completely different and separate outgoing path. ... Solutions start by first defining a problem - every possible incoming and outgoing current path."

Obtaining schematics or proper tools is unnecessary. This is not a very complex subject. But every answer can only be speculation if a required above description is not provided.

Useful replies means ignoring some recommendations. A simple rule applies. If recommendations are not tempered by numbers, then ignore that source.

My computer already runs on a UPS so that won't need to change. ... So, I'll make sure my computer is plugged in with only surge-protector plugs, and see if that changes anything the next time there's thunder around.
Second, a UPS or protector adjacent to electronics does not solve interruptions. Some reason why are repeated:

"noise current creates single digit volts. View numbers on that protector. It does absolutely nothing until [your] AC voltage well exceeds ... 500 volts."

"That stutter would be a canary in the coal mine. It is saying a transient must be averted where it enters a building."

"A "$1 per protected appliance" whole house solution is effective because (a) it makes a low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to (b) single point earth ground. "

"First is to define incoming and outgoing paths via each USB device. Then others can define a problem BEFORE recommending a solution. Second is to have effective transient protection for all appliances - a 'whole house' solution."

To rephrase. UPS or protectors adjacent to electronics (and therefore without a 3 meter connection to earth) do nothing useful for this anomaly.

Every connection must be described. Every connected USB device listed. Every USB power source described. Is computer connected to an ethernet port? It must be listed. Is a mouse hardwired to the computer? List it. If every connection between everything is not listed, then no informed assistance is possible.

You have a UPS? Then every incoming and outgoing to that UPS even must be listed. If the connection is a two prong or three prong, well, that is two wires or three. Each wire must be known.

Connect an incandescent bulb to a same receptacle. If power (voltage) is changing, then bulb will obviously change intensity. That bulb (and behavior or any others) is a sophisticated diagnostic tool. Bulb can dim to well less than 50% intensity before AC power causes a computer problem.

Ignore replies that suggest unplugging is a solution. Unplugging is how to collect facts (a diagnostic). Unplugging is never a solution even to protecting hardware from direct lightning strikes.

Again, "If a surge is permitted anywhere inside, then well proven 'whole house' protection (with the always required low impedance connection to earth ground) is missing. Routine should be thunderstorms without any indication that a nearby strike existed (other than noise). Interruptions to USB devices or "irreversible damage" indicates a human mistake exists."

Long before interruptions can be solved, first the reason and source of that interruption must be defined.
 

My Computer

OS
XP
Warning - Google "westom surge protection whole house" and you will see years of his same old blather on dozens of sites where it seems his apparent his goal is to sell whole house protection.

This is not me on some personal vendetta. He is constantly spewing nonsense and outdated facts, calling those who call him out as liars, fools, uninformed and more.

He is stuck in the past believing all homes are wired like DCOs (telephone company dial central offices) and all electronics behave like big household appliances. He regularly claims that all appliances already have and always have had "robust protection" and he insists that "Protection is only as effective as its single point earth ground. As demonstrated by so many facts with numbers. And by over 100 years of well proven science and experience." always refusing to explain how airplanes are stuck 1000s of times each day without harm, or what happens when a high wattage appliance (like a cheap 1500W hair dryer) in the house fails.

It is clear he "trolls" the Internet to look for any references to UPS and surge protection so he can start his rants.

He then goes on to claim all electronics MUST have surge protection, that UPS makers don't claim to protect the connected devices. Yeah right. Then he proceeds to promote "whole house" surge protection totally ignoring the fact that many destructive surges and spikes don't have to originate from the grid, but can and do come from faulty devices within the home.

Note at WindowsBBS where westom claims Ethernet has robust protection up to 2000V then see Bill's post#9.

Note Toms Hardware where zherot says,
You again?, i swear every surge protector post in this forums you always come to say the same damn thing yet you dont offer any kind of solution its like you only enter to tell people they are idiots for wanting to protect theis systems.

And more examples:
I go through a router every 3 years and I had someone tell me don't use surge protec | MajorGeeks.Com Support Forums - note he says all routers have protection up to 2000V too. :rolleyes:

Straight Dope Message Board - View Single Post - Has anybody ever had a surge protector start smoking?

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/sci.electronics.repair/mkLpyahIKNk/wm2ukd7Yq60J

surge protector - how many joules of protection does yours have? - AnandTech Forums and Help fix surge protector - AnandTech Forums

Surge Protector - Ars Technica OpenForum

I can go on and on, but the point is made.
 
Last edited:

My Computer

Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
BrightWorks Systems B4
OS
Windows 7 Profession 64-bit
CPU
Intel Core i7-860 Quad
Motherboard
Gigabyte P55-UD4P
Memory
Mushkin 4x2Gb PC12800
Graphics Card(s)
Gigabyte GTX260 896Mb
Sound Card
Integrated 7.1 HD Dolby
Monitor(s) Displays
2 Samsung 2220wm-HAS 22"
Screen Resolution
1680 x 1050 | 1680 x 1050
Hard Drives
WD HE 1Tb
PSU
Corsair TX-750W
Case
Ultra M998
Cooling
OEM
Keyboard
MS Wireless Comfort 5000
Mouse
MS Wireless 5000
Internet Speed
Cable and pretty darn fast
Thank you for your post Itaregid.

Very good information. I does explain a lot about our westom and the possible angle he is coming from.

Jack
 

My Computer

Computer type
PC/Desktop
Computer Manufacturer/Model Number
Home made Desktop
OS
Windows 10 Pro. 64/ version 1709 Windows 7 Pro/64
CPU
Intel i7-6800K @ 4.3
Motherboard
ASUS X-99 Deluxe II
Memory
Corsair Platinum 16 gig @2400
Graphics Card(s)
EVGA GTX 1070 OC
Monitor(s) Displays
Asus 27" LED LCD/VE278Q
Screen Resolution
1920-1080 or 1280-720 HDMI
Hard Drives
INTEL SSD 730-240 Gb Sata 3.0/
PSU
EVGA Platium 1200W
Case
Phanteks Luxe Tempered Glass 8 fans/ one radiator
Cooling
XSPC/ Water Cooled CPU
Keyboard
Das 4 Professional
Mouse
Logitech M705/MX Anywhere 2-S
Internet Speed
100 mbits
Antivirus
Microsoft Security Essentials/ Malwarebytes Premium 3.0/ SAS
Browser
I.E. 11 default/Firefox/ ISP Time Warner Cable/Spectrum
Other Info
LG BluRay Burner/
Sound system-KLipsch-THX/
Icy Dock ssd Hot Swap bays.
Back
Top